Custom muni project...

The pedals are the perfect colour already. I'd be worried about taking
the spray paint off nipples when tightening them.

Andrew

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to paint the nipples you would have to go around and scuff every one and
the paint them so the paint has a rough surface to stick to and then so
it dont scratch off you may want to clear coat them , that just seems
like too much work for blue nipples

--
unijesse

"I'm riding a unicycle with my pants down, this should be the best day
of my life."-Bart Simpson
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It is a lot of work...but it's quite an important part of the colour
scheme in my opinion. I realised today that any good nipples have oil
on them. I've decided I'm definitely -not- going to go with the
aluminium ones. Replacing them if they break is one thing but having
them round of when you're trying to tighten them is a real pain.
Thanks for convincing me Jagur, and others. We'll see how it turns
out. If I can paint them without it coming off instantly I will, if
not I'll go for the strongest black tripple butted spokes I can get and
most like silver nipples for a bit of contrast. The wheel will have a
black and chrome theme to it anyway.

Andrew

--
andrew_carter

...well that's what i think anyway.
*'unicycling tips and tutorials' (http://www.unicycle.2ya.com) |
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Just a quick update...

The frame's been welded up now and I'll be testing it in about a week
and a half in New Zealand. We're going to give it a white coat of
paint, but not powder coat it for now. This is a test run to make sure
there isn't too much flex and that things don't break, after all we've
gone for pretty much the minimum in terms of strength.

I think it looks beautiful! The welds look really nice and the brakes
fit in fine with heaps of clearance. I've finally got a muni with more
than 2mm side clearance too, which is a welcome change. 🙂 The frame
looks bent in one of the pics, but it's not...that's the camera playing
tricks. I love the comparison shots with the old frame.

Andrew

*Edit* - The detail I -love- is the one in the top picture of the third
group. At the bottom of the crown where the seatpost meets the
horizontal tube...it looks even more beautiful 'in the flesh'.

131701316913168

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|Filename: Frame Done (raw) - Comparisons.jpg |
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ooooooovery nice.

--
trials_uni

TRIALS 4 LIFE !
[image: http://tinyurl.com/qz2fv ]
'Check Out The Newbie Guide' (http://tinyurl.com/99yez)

koebwil said:

I'm too hardcore to type. I just punch the keyboard and delete the
letters I don't want

w00t...i got reply # 60666 in MR
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I just scanned this thread and couldn't tell if your building with Alum.
or CM steel. If it's alum., with a 22.2 mm seat post, you're cooked.
Even with steel this is pushing it with the kind of drops you do. The
cross bar and seat post section are the first to go, IME, and I've
busted a few. But it sure looks good.

JL

--
vivalargo
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John, that's steel. Can't tell if it's cro-mo or not, but that doesn't
really matter anyways.

I would be concerned with outward flex of the tubes during heavy
braking. Keep an eye on that. I'd also toos one or two thin guage
gussets onto that crown. It'd take almost no time, but would really
stiffen the frame.

Looks good!

BTW, I have jumped to the side against 22.2 seatposts. I use a 27.2
thomson on my trials uni, and a 22.2 primo rod on my muni. I will
switch the primo over to thomson as soon as I can get a good frame for
it... Speaking of which, if anyone has an old steel KH frame they want
to sell, I'm in the market.

--
gerblefranklin

http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Trials-Muni

Nick's main man.

"I love freedom dearly, ideally, in theory, but in reality we're not
there yet--Not nearly."--Cold Duck Complex
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the welds are very good and nice!

--
musketman
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andrew_carter said:

The frame's been welded up now and I'll be testing it in about a week
and a half in New Zealand.

heh can i come? 😄 , where in NZ are you going to?

--
giraffe

evil-nick said:

Trials biker after seeing me jump off a concrete barrier: "How do you
keep from squashing your nuts!?"
Me: "I use those for cushioning!"

:p
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These are all valid points, and all things I was expecting to hear.
Again, this frame is an experiment in a way. Judging by how few people
actually break frames, I really think there's lots of overkill in frame
design. This is a prototype frame that will hopefully not have to act
the way prototypes usually do. 🙂

vivalargo said:

Even with steel this is pushing it with the kind of drops you do. The
cross bar and seat post section are the first to go, IME, and I've
busted a few. But it sure looks good.

It's 4130 ChroMoly tubing. 30x13mm 'streamline' profile, 0.9mm thick.
It's much the same as this - http://tinyurl.com/l5adh .

I'm a fairly light guy and tend not to land drops sitting down. 😉 I
realise that there's still considerable force applied when landing them
standing up, even when landing nicely, but I'm testing the hypothesis
that for any drop that would break a frame I'd have more to worry about
than a broken frame. 🙂

gerblefranklin said:

I would be concerned with outward flex of the tubes during heavy
braking. Keep an eye on that. I'd also toos one or two thin guage
gussets onto that crown. It'd take almost no time, but would really
stiffen the frame.

This is another thing we discussed the night before last. We came to
the conclusion that heavy braking doesn't exist for my riding style so
that won't be so much of a problem. The gussets you mentioned were in
the original design. This trip to New Zealand will be a good
opportunity to test teh frame out and it will only be given a light
coat of paint for now. I have the feeling I will want him to add that
part on there...we'll see how we go. Do you think the difference will
be very obvious?

musketman said:

the welds are very good and nice!

I'm very impressed by them.

giraffe said:

heh can i come? , where in NZ are you going to?

We'll definitely have to meet up...I'm coming to Auckland.

Andrew

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andrew_carter said:

Again, this frame is an experiment in a way. Judging by how few people
actually break frames, I really think there's lots of overkill in frame
design. This is a prototype frame that will hopefully not have to act
the way prototypes usually do.

Cool looking work, Andrew. My philosophy regarding prototypes differs
from yours slightly. I want to know if I can break it and often make
every effort to do so or have someone more capable do the dirty work.
It would be interesting to find out if you -can- break it.

--
harper

-Greg Harper

B L U E S H I F T

*jc is the only main man. there can be no other.*

This is still my nth post....*AWESOME!!!*
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TOUCHE' ANDREW!

That is very sweet looking, indeed. My goodness, nice looking welds.
So how long did it take you before you said anything about how sweet it
looked when you first saw it?

I bet there was a big grin on your face, too. 😄

That feeling of designing and planning and then seeing the frame come
to reality is exciting.

I hope you have so much fun with finalizing the project and getting it
to New Zealand for testing.

ENJOY!

Cheers!!

Rod

--
teachndad

Rod Wylie 'MountainUnicyclingLA.com'
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Greg,
Although maybe a little less logical, my philosophy is strongly
influenced by my financial situation. 🙂 I'd love to know how much it
will take to break too.

Thanks Rod,
I tried to hold off on the celebrations until I checked over the frame
in detail...I failed though. I lasted about 2 seconds.

Andrew

--
andrew_carter

...well that's what i think anyway.
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So how much does the frame actually weigh, Andrew?

JL

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vivalargo
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vivalargo said:

So how much does the frame actually weigh, Andrew?

900g (+/- 20g)

It looks beautiful, and it feels beautiful with the great new bearings
that are in there and the new pedals, but unfortunately there's still
work to be done on it.

The gusset from the original design really is neccessary. The tyre
rubs on the frame when climbing my (fairly steep) driveway. Now I'm
terrified that even with the gusset the flex will be unacceptable. Any
thoughts?

Actually, Nathan did suggest a sort of custom brake booster that would
surely stiffen it a lot, given that there are two holes on each side to
fix to.

I really hope it can be resolved in the next 6 days because I would
hate to ride without it in New Zealand.

Andrew

13197

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|Filename: Frame Done (without gueset) 1.jpg |
|Download: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/13197 |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+

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There's no way I'm going to New Zealand without this muni in rideable
condition. I just had a thought...as a last resort (there's not enough
time to add the gusset) I can always buy a sheet of steel and cut out a
temporary booster with the jigsaw.

Andrew

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the frame looks sweet, but i can understand that the gussett is
required. i definatly agree with the reasoning behind this frame and
that there is often overkill (authough depends on your riding eh). i
love the white too.
cher cher.

--
muzzle

sig.
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'My original custom frame' (http://tinyurl.com/hzpa4) had similar
proportions and a similar design and its flex was acceptable. Do you
think the gusset will reduce the flex in this new one to within
acceptable levels? I know this is all very subjective, but given that
they are such similar designs and that I could fit a gusset about twice
the height (couldn't find a more appropriate word) on this new one, I
should be pretty safe, right?

And do you think that this custom brake booster idea will suffice for
my trip to New Zealand?

Thanks,
Andrew

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That sure is purdy!

I'd like to see some video of it 🙂

--
Brian MacKenzie

Justonewheel: 'Just put the new uni together in the driveway stopped to
move the car and ran over the uni.'

DVD now available: 'Training Wheel Not Required'
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andrew_carter said:

There's no way I'm going to New Zealand without this muni in rideable
condition...
Andrew

I'm glad that you did Andrew, great times!

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