Custom muni project...

Thanks. I'll look into having Nathan mak me a rail adapter and brake
lever mount as one piece, but I really don't want to ad much weight to
the muni.

I ordered a pair of blue unsealed (the only ones available) Odyssey Jim
Cielencki pedals from Gary of unicycles.com.au today. Tomorrow I will
hopefully pick them up, and then ask him about Thomson seatpost
prices.

Andrew

--
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JC is right, don't knurl your post. It will weaken the post, and won't
realy improve grip. Also, the issue of how to hold it int he lathe would
be rather difficult. You would have to knurl it before doing anything
else to it, including welding on the top bolt part.

Thomsons are excellent posts, and will not break. I do disagree a bit
with JC on some details, though. There's nothing particularly special
about the aluminum used int he posts. If there were, other companies
would use it too. The reason they are so strong yet so light is that the
entire post, including the mounting holes, etc, is machined from the
same extrusion. This means that the post gets extruded to the outside
weird oval shape of the top, and then gets cut down on a lathe to size.
Then a mioll puts in the shape on the top of the the post, and viola,
you have a thomson. The oval shape on the inside also makes the post
stronger than others. It is thicker walled where the clam compresses
most, and thin walled where there is the least compression force. All
around a great post. As for the masterpiece, i'm still puzzling over how
they cut the oval on the inside of those.

The weight of the rail adapter will be comparable to the bar end, but
the weight saved by using a thomson will compensate for the added weight
of the rail adapter.

I reccomend getting a single bolt weight weenie seatclamp, or just
making your own. Single bolt clamps are adaquate when you have a 27.2 or
larger post, and are lighter. Also, once they are clamped down hard,
they are as good as anything else on the market. I don't see any reason
to use a quick release seatclamp, since it's not like you change seat
heights all the time (at least I don't).

--
gerblefranklin - Trials Unicyclist

http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Trials-Muni

Nick's main man.

"The genesis of genocide is like a Pagan religion; carefully hidden,
woven into the holidays of a Christian."-Immortal Technique

* I need a profile hub, any condition, as long as the splines work! (PM
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jagur said:

*U-Turn is right about John being right. the Flip-Lock is the best *

Jagur is right about U-Turn being right about John being right.

--
harper - TANKED at GASWORKS

-Greg Harper

B L U E S H I F T

"My world view has come crashing down like a drunk clown on a giraffe,
riding through a cactus patch..." -evil-nick on "Entry of the
Gladiators"
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Quoted message said:

-Originally posted by jagur-
*U-Turn is right about John being right. the Flip-Lock is the best
*

harper said:

*Jagur is right about U-Turn being right about John being right. *

All that I can say is that Harper is correct that Jagur is right about
U-Turn being right about John being right.

--
One on one - Geezer Unicyclists Of America

"However, like the jet pilot, if the Coker rider tries to turn too fast,
he/she could black out."
-Memphis Mud

The De Beers people used to say, "Diamonds are Forever." But now their
ad says, "Diamonds Will Render Her Speechless." Why don’t they just
come out and say, "Diamonds--That'll Shut Her Up!"
Ron White - Blue Collar Comedy Tour

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andrew_carter said:

*I didn't think autocad could do 3d versions. or are you using the
mechanical desktop version of it.
- I don't think it's the Mechanical Desktop version, no. I remember
back in highschool though we used Mechanical Desktop for 3D modelling.
What I'm currently using is just plain old AutoCAD 2002.

To access the 3D stuff, you should be in model space and work wit hthe
"Solids" toolbar. The quickest way to choose your toolbars is to
right click on any of the toolbars you have up, then a list will pop
up. I'll attach a screenshot of the ones I usually work with.*

Look like I forgot to attach that screenshot, sorry. Here it is...

+----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Attachment filename: clipboard03.jpg |
|Download attachment: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/293853|
+----------------------------------------------------------------+

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*http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/andrew*
http://www.unicycles.com.au
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gerblefranklin said:

*Thomsons are excellent posts, and will not break. I do disagree a bit
with JC on some details, though. There's nothing particularly special
about the aluminum used int he posts. If there were, other companies
would use it too. The reason they are so strong yet so light is that
the entire post, including the mounting holes, etc, is machined from
the same extrusion. This means that the post gets extruded to the
outside weird oval shape of the top, and then gets cut down on a lathe
to size. Then a mioll puts in the shape on the top of the the post,
and viola, you have a thomson. The oval shape on the inside also makes
the post stronger than others. It is thicker walled where the clam
compresses most, and thin walled where there is the least compression
force. All around a great post. As for the masterpiece, i'm still
puzzling over how they cut the oval on the inside of those.*

Thomson uses a 7000 series aluminum alloy (I'm not sure exactly which).
Most other lesser seatposts use a 6000 series aluminum alloy (probably
6061-T6). The 7000 series stuff is harder and stronger than the 6000
series stuff. That's why the Thomson posts can use less material and
still be stronger than other seatposts.

The seatposts are thicker in the front and back because that's where the
most stress is on a bike. On a bike the post will get forces that want
to bend it forwards or backwards. Putting more material on the front
and back of the seatpost makes it stronger in that direction. That is
slightly less true on a unicycle. We still put the majority of our
force in the forwards and backwards direction but we also put more side
loads and twisting loads on the seatpost than a bike would. But still,
the Thomson works very well on a unicycle.

In general the better and stronger and more expensive aluminum alloy
bicycle components will use 7000 series stuff while the cheaper and
weaker components will use 6000 series stuff. 7000 series aluminum is
more expensive than the 6000 series stuff so parts made from it are
going to be more expensive.

--
john_childs - Guinness Mojo

john_childs (att) hotmail (dott) com
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Thats cool I never knew that autocad could do that. Thanks for letting
me know. For my designs I have been using Pro/E.
But I have been having to go to the engineering Computer lab here at
Iowa State to use it.

--
weissnp - I know nothing!
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I was able to use the Surly Constrictor to fix a slipping seatpost on a
Wilder frame here on the East Coast. It seemed to work pretty well.

--
U-Turn - As long as my feet keep movin'...

Weep in the dojo... laugh on the battlefield.
'LiveWire Unicycles' (http://www.livewireunicycles.com)
'Strongest Coker Wheel in the World'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/albup39)
'29er Tire Study' (http://u-turn.unicyclist.com/29erTireStudy/)
'New York Unicycle Club' (http://www.newyorkunicycle.com)
-- Dave Stockton
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Why is it that everything goes wrong for me on the one unicycle that I
really want to be perfect?? Today I picked up the blue Odyssey Jim
Cielencki pedals I ordered. They are blue, but not the beautiful blue
that unicycle.com sells and that you see literally any time you search
for blue Jim Cielenckis, but a horrible pale blue. They cost $80...and
I hate the colour!

What's even worse is that this morning I discovered a loose keyway in my
Profile hub. 🙁

Things just aren't working out for me...and I have no money left. 🙁

Andrew

+----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Attachment filename: muni colour - current setup.jpg |
|Download attachment: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/295764|
+----------------------------------------------------------------+

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http://www.unicycles.com.au
unicycling tips and tutorials - http://www.unicycle.2ya.com
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This is actually quite funny. Gary gave me the number for the
distributor and it turns out I got the limited edition glow in the dark
blue pedals that turn green in the dark. The green glowing colour is
nice (I just tried them out) but the blue is horrible and I don't do
much night muni. The standard ones also cost a lot less. So I'm taking
them back now and ordering the cheaper nicer ones.

More great service from unicycles.com.au. 🙂

Andrew

--
andrew_carter - Learning to unicycle...

*http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/andrew*
http://www.unicycles.com.au
unicycling tips and tutorials - http://www.unicycle.2ya.com
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Oh.Good luck!

AccordNSX said:

*If those three people are right, who does that leave left? *

That guy in the red car.

--
forrestunifreak - Team YAMS member

Old school.new school.Dont go to school.

-YAMSTA-
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I picked up the 'correct' colour pedals today. They look beautiful.
I'm thinking of saving them for when my custom frame is up and running.
I don't mind scratching a muni (of course I don't...I'm getting a white
frame made up!) but I think I'd like to wait and have a shiny new muni
with shiny new pedals that I can break in all at once.

Andrew

--
andrew_carter - Learning to unicycle...

*http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/andrew*
http://www.unicycles.com.au
unicycling tips and tutorials - http://www.unicycle.2ya.com
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jagur said:

U-Turn is right

Judging by his avatar, U-Turn is only right about half of the time.

Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict
--
"When it comes to the family jewels, you won't be having fun until they're having fun. - Jake D"

Klaas Bil said:

*Judging by his avatar, U-Turn is only right about half of the time.
*

In the Northern Hemisphere... 😉

--
U-Turn - As long as my feet keep movin'...

Weep in the dojo... laugh on the battlefield.
'LiveWire Unicycles' (http://www.livewireunicycles.com)
'Strongest Coker Wheel in the World'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/albup39)
'29er Tire Study' (http://u-turn.unicyclist.com/29erTireStudy/)
'New York Unicycle Club' (http://www.newyorkunicycle.com)
-- Dave Stockton
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The tubing was ordered today and I've touched up the design to suit.
The new specs are:

- 0.9mm thick, 25x12mm streamline tubing (really strong and light stuff
apparently).
- 15mm side clearance at the widest point on a 3" Gazz (this may be
reduced a little to make the brakes fit easier, but not much), 20-25mm
top clearance.
- The little bracing fillet thing will be set about 2 or 3mm in, not
flush (purely aesthetic).
- Neck of the frame is to fit a 22.2mm seatpost. This came about for
several reasons; we're a little restricted by sizes in this beautiful
streamline tubing, the neck of the frame runs up really high so there's
not so much stress on the seatpost anyway, and I've never bent one
before.

Andrew

11163

+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
|Filename: Muni Frame - Updated (Dec 05) Perspective.jpg |
|Download: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/11163 |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+

--
andrew_carter

...well that's what i think anyway.
*'unicycling tips and tutorials' (http://www.unicycle.2ya.com) |
'my photos and videos' (http://gallery.unicyclist.com/andrew) |
'\\"dancing about architecture\\"'
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Here's a non-dirtorted, non-perspective view.

The other important dimension I left out - 345mm from the axle to the
bottom of the horizontal tube in the crown.

11164

+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
|Filename: Muni Frame - Updated (Dec 05) Front.jpg |
|Download: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/11164 |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+

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...well that's what i think anyway.
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We've run into a slight hurdle at the brake bosses. I want overkill in
my side clearance after running munis with 1mm max clearance for years
now. I've designed it with 15mm side clearance for now and would only
be willing to go down to about 12mm minimum.

The problem is that the brakes won't reach as is. Apparently we're
goign to fall about 10mm short of the rim, but this doesn't seem right
to me. Surely there are plenty of munis out there with a similar style
and a similar amount of clearance. What about the '04 KH frame? Where
are the brake bosses positioned on that one in relation to the rim (in
this case a 42mm wide Alex DX-32) and the legs of the frame?

The other concern I have is that the tyre may rub against the top part
of the bosses. Has this ever been a problem? There's no point in
giving myself 12-15mm clearance to the side of the tyre if the tyre's
going to rub on the bosses within 5mm or so. What do I do? I've been
searching for photos of existing frames at the brakes but haven't had
much luck. Can anyone help me out with this? Thanks.

Andrew

--
andrew_carter

...well that's what i think anyway.
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Andrew,

Cool design!

Remember first reading about my project on Muniac.com when you first
arrived on the scene? I know you read it, but not sure if you remember
it.
I smiled as I saw the computer graphic representations. That's almost
identical to my first muni project. Except it didn't have the truss
under the crown.

Here is the link with photos on the building process.

http://tinyurl.com/8hltz

Welding with the mitred corners is really tough as the builder had told
me. I ended up having the frame pinched to accomodate the tire because
I had a suzue hub with a 3.0 gazz. I think my tubing is greater in
width than yours. My frame flexes, but that could be from a variety of
reasons. When you look down the seat post tube, the whole frame is not
aligned. After welding, the tubes had bent due to the heat, but he did
his best to straighten it out. Also, the pinched sides to accomodate
the tire may have weakened the fork legs. But the frame does flex
under hard pedaling like when going up a steep hill which causes the
brakes to hit the rim. So, the missalignment or the pinching could
have contributed to the frame flex. Your design uses the truss, so that
may mitigate the flex on my frame.

Additionally, the frame was designed around a Sun BFR rim, which is
much narrower than the Alex DX32. We still got the brakes (Magura HS
33's) to run with this narrower rim. Since the tubing was aerodynamic,
the x- section was tear-drop shaped. Is yours? We reversed the tubing
to put the fatter side tubing to the back and then the magura two hole
brake mounts were welded inside the forklegs. We couldn't weld on the
very end, too narrow and pointy. He had to cut the braces from the
stock mounts(available at uni.com) to match the taper on the inside of
the fork legs.

I haven't read your entire thread, yet, but responded only to your most
recent posts. Maybe I missed some info.

Your using different materials and a different welder, so that may
eliminate any of the issues I had with my frame. I mention them only
because of the similarity in design. It's fun designing and being
involved in these custom projects isn't it!🙂

About 6 months ago, a chap in the UK sent me an email regarding making
a "Coker" frame with aero dubing. I don't know what happened if it
ever got finished. I need to look up the old PM. I can get it to you
later. His experience with aero tubing may be helpful.
Cheers.

--
teachndad

Rod Wylie

'MountainUnicyclingLA.com' (http://www.mountainunicyclingla.com)
'Greater Los Angeles Area Trails - Images'
(http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Greater-Los-Angeles-Trails)
'Greater Los Angeles Area Trails - Descriptions'
(http://tinyurl.com/6h8zn)
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Andrew,

Cool design!

Remember first reading about my project on Muniac.com when you first
arrived on the scene? I know you read it, but not sure if you remember
it.
I smiled as I saw the computer graphic representations. That's almost
identical to my first muni project. Except it didn't have the truss
under the crown.

Here is the link with photos on the building process.

http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/?g..._itemId=109198

Welding with the mitred corners is really tough as the builder had told
me. I ended up having the frame pinched to accomodate the tire because
I had a suzue hub with a 3.0 gazz. I think my tubing is greater in
width than yours. My frame flexes, but that could be from a variety of
reasons. When you look down the seat post tube, the whole frame is not
aligned. After welding, the tubes had bent due to the heat, but he did
his best to straighten it out. Also, the pinched sides to accomodate
the tire may have weakened the fork legs. But the frame does flex under
hard pedaling like when going up a steep hill which causes the brakes
to hit the rim. So, the missalignment or the pinching could have
contributed to the frame flex. Your design uses the truss, so that may
mitigate the flex on my frame.

Additionally, the frame was designed around a Sun BFR rim, which is
much narrower than the Alex DX32. We still got the brakes (Magura HS
33's) to run with this narrower rim. Since the tubing was aerodynamic,
the x- section was tear-drop shaped. Is yours? We reversed the tubing
to put the fatter side tubing to the back and then the magura two hole
brake mounts were welded inside the forklegs. We couldn't weld on the
very end, too narrow and pointy. He had to cut the braces from the
stock mounts(available at uni.com) to match the taper on the inside of
the fork legs.

I haven't read your entire thread, yet, but responded only to your most
recent posts. Maybe I missed some info.

Your using different materials and a different welder, so that may
eliminate any of the issues I had with my frame. I mention them only
because of the similarity in design. It's fun designing and being
involved in these custom projects isn't it!

About 6 months ago, a chap in the UK sent me an email regarding making
a "Coker" frame with aero dubing. I don't know what happened if it ever
got finished. I need to look up the old PM. I can get it to you later.
His experience with aero tubing may be helpful.

Cheers.

--
teachndad

Rod Wylie

'MountainUnicyclingLA.com' (http://www.mountainunicyclingla.com)
'Greater Los Angeles Area Trails - Images'
(http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Greater-Los-Angeles-Trails)
'Greater Los Angeles Area Trails - Descriptions'
(http://tinyurl.com/6h8zn)
'UnicycleRoundupLA.com/' (http://unicycleroundupla.com/)
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Rod, a good welder should have been able to compensate for the heat
distortion due to welding. If he chose to square up parts by bending
the tubes after the fact, it means he wasn't paying very close
attention to the welding, and didn't bother to create a good welding
jig to do the welds in.

Andrew, 15mm of clearance is excessive. I have <5mm, and on the last SB
ride with plenty of mud, I was fine. If the mud is so thick that you
think you need 15mm of clearance, then no frame is going to work.
You'll need a wicked long crossover cable on your maggies if you go
with clearances like that, aswell. Just because you didn't have much
clearance on your previous frames doesn't mean you need excessive
clearance on this frame. Also, have you accounted for the knee-knocking
attributes of a sharp-crowned frame that is that wide? Right now you've
got a crown about 130mm wide (>5"😉. Not to rag on you, but that's
obscene. Why sacrifice general ridability for the few times when you
might need extra clearance.

And for your own sake, don't use a 22.2mm seatpost. Do something,
anything to get a 25.4 or larger. If not for any other reason, it looks
10x as cool. You will bend your post eventually, and life will suck
when that happens.

--
gerblefranklin

http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Trials-Muni

Nick's main man.

"I love freedom dearly, ideally, in theory, but in reality we're not
there yet--Not nearly."--Cold Duck Complex
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