Custom muni project...

Rod,
Of course I remember your frame. I've always loved the design...in
fact I was looking for it the other day. That link didn't work (it
must be from before the gallery update) but I found the correct one -
http://tinyurl.com/8hltz . Thanks for letting me know about the issues
you've had. I'm hoping all will be okay...my old frame was a very
similar design and had very little flex. And yes, the tubing is
teardrop-shaped.

Bevan,
I was never pretending that the 15mm was a rational decision, but I
think you've convinced me to go to 10mm around a 3" Gazz. That will
make the crown width about the same as my current frame and I don't
knock my knees on it, and don't have to ride bow-legged. The tubing
has already been bought and is about 25mm wide. The neck of the frame
goes up very high and there will only be about 40mm of seatpost
sticking through, 15-20mm of which will have some sort of brake lever
mount attached to it. Do you still think 22.2mm is a bad move? I was
originally hoping for a 25.4mm post but it won't work with this tubing
and we're a bit restricted by availability.

Thanks for your help,
Andrew

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Andrew, I'm glad I've convinced you to drop the clearance. 10mm seems
much more reasonable.

I only have about 50mm of post showing on my uni, and I bent it
recently on a bad rolling hop. I would reccomend going larger.

As for availability, I know New Zealand has at least some industry, so
tubing must be somewhat available. Check the local yellowpages
equivalent. You can always ream to proper size. There are also millions
of thomson seatpost sizes, so you can be pretty confident you'll find a
seattube to fit.

--
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Do you think there's much chance of the neck of the frame breaking or
just the seatpost? I really don't see the seatpost bending very often
at all and as long as the frame holds out it's not too much of a drama.
Even if it doesn't it can be fixed...this is a bit of an experiment of
how thin and small a frame can go without flexing too much or
bending...in a way. As I said though, the tubing has already been
bought so there's not much of an alternative.

Andrew

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john_childs said:

The Salsa Flip-Lock is expensive, but it's worth it. It's the only
quick-release seatpost clamp I've found that actually works.

What's with Quick Releases? I've never found them very useful. My
seat clamp holds pretty tight, and in order to adjust it all you need
is a $0.50 Allen Key. And it's low profile with no risk of snagging
your shorts. And lighter than a QR. And the allen key fits in your
pocket.

BTW, nice frame Andrew :p

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gerblefranklin said:

As for availability, I know New Zealand has at least some industry, so
tubing must be somewhat available.

I think Andrews' from Brisbane. But yeah, there are quite a few bike
builders over here in NZL too. I'm planning a custom 29'er next year-
hoping to make something super light and stiff for racing with. Tubing
wise- thinking of using those off-the shelf carbon stays that they glue
onto the rear ends of road bikes.

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I'm really excited about this colour scheme. I found out you can get
annodised blue DT Swiss spokes! My only concern is that the two shades
of blue (Jim Cielencki pedals and annodised blue) won't match well. Do
you think I should run chrome or black spokes? Is chrome the right
word? Should I be saying silver instead? Here's how it's going to
be...

Seat - Black KH Fusion
Seatpost - Chrome
Seatpost Clamp - Annodised Blue
Frame - White
Rim - Black, stickers removed
Tyre - Black
Cranks - Chrome
Hub - Chrome
Pedals - Blue
Spokes - Chrome or black (what do you think?)
Nipples - Annodised Blue

Andrew

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The nipples are blue.. so i would take the black spokes, matching to the
rim. And i would take a black hub with black cranks

--
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i think you should paint the rim blue and have the nippleswhite ans the
spoked black... thats just mu personal preferance

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i would not advise using aluminum nipples, they tend to strip out., they
just dont last as long as brass nipples.

--
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-forget_your_life-
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andrew_carter said:

(what do you think?)

As long as your frame and pedals will match your purse and your heels,
no one will mind the spokes, dear. :p

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Smilymarco said:

The nipples are blue.. so i would take the black spokes, matching to the
rim. And i would take a black hub with black cranks

Good call, except I think I'll stick to the chrome hub and
cranks...partly to save money, partly because I prefer the hub that way
and the hub and cranks must match.

manon1wheel said:

i think you should paint the rim blue and have the nippleswhite ans the
spoked black... thats just mu personal preferance

I'm going for a kind of subtle colour scheme though so I really just
want a hint of anything coloured. Notice that all the blue bits in the
colour scheme are small parts.

jagur said:

i would not advise using aluminum nipples, they tend to strip out., they
just dont last as long as brass nipples.

Thanks for letting me know. I wonder, can you buy blue brass nipples?
I never thought I'd hear myself saying this but if it comes down to
blue nipples that may need replacing from time to time and plain strong
ones, I'll most likely go for the blue ones. Obviously, blue strong
ones would be ideal. Replacing a nipple isn't such a big deal
anyway...I'll just make sure I'm careful when tightening them. Do the
threads actually strip in aluminium nipples? I've only ever seen or
heard of nipples rounding off.

maestro8 said:

As long as your frame and pedals will match your purse and your heels,
no one will mind the spokes, dear.

I may have to stop wearing my favourite red muni shirt. :eek:

Thanks guys,
Andrew

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Good nipples are pink.

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I think you can only use aluminium nipples with an eyeleted rim, is ur
dx32 eyeletted?

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president_luke said:

I think you can only use aluminium nipples with an eyeleted rim, is ur
dx32 eyeletted?

Why would that be? No, it's not eye-letted...but I may be buying a new
rim. Not sure what yet, I want something light, wide, and strong.
🙄

Andrew

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I think aluminium to aluminium contect causes chemical welding or
something, thats what it said in this
http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

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andrew_carter said:

I never thought I'd hear myself saying this but if it comes down to
blue nipples that may need replacing from time to time and plain strong
ones, I'll most likely go for the blue
ones.....................................................................................................
Obviously, blue strong ones would be ideal. Replacing a nipple isn't
such a big deal anyway...

fashion over function?

replacing a nipple is pretty easy as long as it splits or strips just
sitting in the unicycle stand but on the trail it can be a time killing
chore.

every one i now in the bicycling community that has alloy nipples has
them on their light weight road bike and always carry a few extra ones
in case of failure.

the threds on alloy nips are pop can thin, not mountain worthy.

--
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-forget_your_life-
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i think this thing is going to look sweet with a black seat, chrome seat
post, blue seat post clamp, white frame, black tire & rim, blue
nipples, black spokes, and the chrome hub and cranks,

If you went with chrome spokes it would have to much chrome i think,
but the way you have it listed i think she'll be a rolling beauty!

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if you ahve the $$$ add a blue shine to ur white on ur frame.. makes it
look soooo slick 😄 😉 😎

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What about buying the stronger nipples, screwing them onto some old
spokes so they don't clog up, and spray painting them a similar colour
to my pedals? Would the paint be far too weak? If that worked I'd do
the same for the seatpost clamp and make them all closely match! What
do you think?

*Tubing update...*
I saw the tubing last night in the flesh so to speak, it's gorgeous!
It's actually about 13x30mm which is exactly what I was looking for,
and 0.9mm thickness which feels ideal. I don't think flex will be too
much of an issue after playing around with the 1.5m long bit I saw last
night. The 'streamline' (tear-shaped) profile is absolutely perfect!
I've also decided for sure that I'll run a 22.2mm seatpost. This will
allow enough room on the tubing of the crown so we can send the neck of
the frame right through and neatly end it almost flush with the bottom
of the crown, following the streamline profile...more spots to weld,
etc. I really don't think I'll have strength issues with the neck of
the frame nor the seatpost itself. I thought the small neck would look
odd, but I put the two bits of tubing together last night and I love
it.

So it's all progressing well now...thanks to all the help I got from
Rod (teachndad)...thanks Rod!

Andrew

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I'd be willing to bet that if you spray painted the nipples, the paint
would last pretty good. Nothing really happens to nipples/spokes
anyway, so the paint should stay.

Spray painting pedals doesn't work though, I've done it.

--
forrestunifreak

Andrew Carter said:

I never thought I'd hear myself saying this but if it comes down to blue
nipples that are (weak), or plain strong ones, I'll most likely go for
the blue ones...

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