Currently got a Sach's / SRAM 8 speed cassette on the back of my bike, and a
knackered no name chain. No amount of adjustment is fixing the downshifts,
so I reckon it's time to replace both. Am I correct in thinking SRAM gear is
longer lasting than Shimano? Am I going to need a chain tool to get the new
chain on? Are the more expensive chains more durable or lighter or what?
UK and Europe · Public discussion
Chains and Cassettes
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- UK and Europe
- Published
- 20 June 2004
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- 21 June 2004
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- Doki
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Doki said:
Currently got a Sach's / SRAM 8 speed cassette on the back of my
bike, and a knackered no name chain. No amount of adjustment is
fixing the downshifts, so I reckon it's time to replace both. Am I
correct in thinking SRAM gear is longer lasting than Shimano? Am I
going to need a chain tool to get the new chain on? Are the more
expensive chains more durable or lighter or what?Couldn't say which chains/cogs last the best (still using the nice 7speed
Sachs Aris screw-on hub on my main road-tourer...).Chains - Sachs PC-series chains include a "powerlink" which can be closed by
hand, and opened without a chain tool (though I find it needs a pair of
pliers).
I believe that Shimano chains need a chain tool and the appropriate link
pins.You'll need a chainwhip to remove the old cassette. If you don't want to
purchase one, they can easily be made using a bit of old cycle chain and an
approx 18inch length of rectangular mild-steel bar. Drill a hole near the
edge of the bar, about 4in from one end. Attach the chain to this hold
(which does need a chain tool, or hammer and drift).--
NC - Webmaster for http://www.2mm.org.uk/
Replies to newsgroup postings to the newsgroup please. -
Doki said:
Currently got a Sach's / SRAM 8 speed cassette on the back of my
bike, and a knackered no name chain. No amount of adjustment is
fixing the downshifts, so I reckon it's time to replace both.Knackered chains and cassettes still usually shift ok so I expect
something else is wrong as well.Quoted message said:
Am I
correct in thinking SRAM gear is longer lasting than Shimano?Dunno.
Quoted message said:
Am I going to need a chain tool to get the new chain on?
The same ordinary decent tool will get old one off and new one on.
Quoted message said:
Are the more
expensive chains more durable or lighter or what?Durabilty is debateable. With SRAM, mostly the more expensive ones just
look nicer. Only a few of the top end ones save (a small amount of)
weight by using hollow pins or slots in the plates. SRAM PC58 is a good
middling one to go for, IMO.~PB
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NC said:
.....PC-series chains include a "powerlink" which can be
closed by hand, and opened without a chain tool.......Note: Tool is still required to shorten the chain to the required length
in the first place.SRAM Powerlinks can be used with Shimano chains too -- even though SRAM &
Shimano don't recommend it.~PB
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Pete Biggs said:
Doki said:
Currently got a Sach's / SRAM 8 speed cassette on the back of my
bike, and a knackered no name chain. No amount of adjustment is
fixing the downshifts, so I reckon it's time to replace both.Knackered chains and cassettes still usually shift ok so I expect
something else is wrong as well.I've just been and had a look, and it seems to be shifting relatively well
now, not instantaneous, more like a couple of turns of the pedals. Perhaps
I'm expecting too? I think I'll wait until it dies to put on a new chain and
cassette.Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Are the more
expensive chains more durable or lighter or what?Durabilty is debateable. With SRAM, mostly the more expensive ones
just look nicer. Only a few of the top end ones save (a small amount
of) weight by using hollow pins or slots in the plates. SRAM PC58 is
a good middling one to go for, IMO.Cheap too 🙂.
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Pete Biggs said:
Knackered chains and cassettes still usually shift ok so I expect
something else is wrong as well.I was complaining to my ride partner that my shifts were rather
intermittent and unreliable and sometimes it would shift without being
asked!!!Few miles later, strutting my stuff up a 1 in 6, my chain snaps.
I'm sure there is a link (ooh thats a bad pun).
Regards,
Mark -
Pete Biggs:
Quoted message said:
Note: Tool is still required to shorten the chain to the required length
in the first place.Yes, indeed - assuming the chain is long enough in the first place. My new
SRAM chain I fitted recently was actually a link shorter than the chain it
replaced! This made no practical difference but it was slightly
disconcerting as I had been expecting to have to shorten the new chain.Quoted message said:
SRAM Powerlinks can be used with Shimano chains too -- even though SRAM &
Shimano don't recommend it.Is there any genuine concern for compatibility behind this recommendation,
or is it purely commercial? I know which way I'd bet if I had to put money
on it...d.
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davek said:
Quoted message said:
SRAM Powerlinks can be used with Shimano chains too -- even though
SRAM & Shimano don't recommend it.Is there any genuine concern for compatibility behind this
recommendation, or is it purely commercial? I know which way I'd bet
if I had to put money on it...I'd say it's probably the usual case of over-caution from the makers. But
there could be some genuine concern behind it because chain widths and
shapes vary slightly even when the "speed" is the same. Fair enough,
busting a chain is potentially very serious.I've used a Sachs 8sp Powerlink with a HGwhateveritwas with no problems at
all, same with a SRAM 9sp Powerlink with Campag 9sp chain, and I've read
of many cases of Powerlinks working "fine" with $himaNO 9sp chain. Just
the occasional complaint is posted about them being noisy or something but
you always get a few wild 'n' weird reports about every component.~PB
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"Pete Biggs" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
davek said:
Quoted message said:
SRAM Powerlinks can be used with Shimano chains too -- even though
SRAM & Shimano don't recommend it.Is there any genuine concern for compatibility behind this
recommendation, or is it purely commercial? I know which way I'd bet
if I had to put money on it...I'd say it's probably the usual case of over-caution from the makers. But
there could be some genuine concern behind it because chain widths and
shapes vary slightly even when the "speed" is the same. Fair enough,
busting a chain is potentially very serious.I've used a Sachs 8sp Powerlink with a HGwhateveritwas with no problems at
all, same with a SRAM 9sp Powerlink with Campag 9sp chain, and I've read
of many cases of Powerlinks working "fine" with $himaNO 9sp chain.I have used a 9spd powerlink with a HGmumble chain (also 9spd). I
started to do this after having (broken link) problems from splitting
and rejoining a 9spd shimano chain without using the insert you are
supposed to (didn't realise there was one at the time). Now I just
use sram chainsbest wishes
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