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Road Cycling
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6 September 2005
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mark
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  1. Jasper Janssen said:
    Quoted message said:

    None were anywhere near $100 (although the FER was a
    closeout). All give very good light and very good reliability. All
    have lasted for many years.

    http://www.roseversand.com/rose_main.cfm?KAT_ID=0&PRD_ID=15926&spr_id=2&MID=0&CID=175

    FER is currently 25 EUR or around US$30.

    Jasper

    Really!

    Seriously, I think I paid $40 on it from a shop that was going out of
    business. IIRC, they were selling it for near $100! At $30, I'd
    recommend it.

    Understand, it's a quirky unit. It's driven by the front wheel's
    spokes, and it mounts between the front fork and hub, by sliding the
    axle through a hole in the unit. (Somehow, this doesn't work well on
    my commuting bike, but it's fine on my wife's touring bike.) It's got
    a two-stage speed increase from the spoke driver to the generator, by a
    plastic gearset and a tiny toothed timing belt. And the unit is big,
    kind of heavy, and decidedly clunky looking.

    But it _is_ efficient, quite a bit more than either a typical bottle or
    bottom bracket generator. And the headlight that comes it has very
    good optics indeed. If you can put up with the quirky looks and
    weight, I think it's worth a try. I'd buy it over a Union bottle
    generator in a second.

    - Frank Krygowski

  2. Jasper Janssen said:

    ... a bottle generator, they're around 35-40% efficient
    for the good ones. About Half of that is the tyre/generator interface and
    the rest is frictional and electric losses.

    Jasper, do you know anything about bottle generators running on the
    rim's braking surface? I saw one once, and it struck me that it might
    reduce that first type of loss.

    - Frank Krygowski

  3. In article <[email hidden]>,

    Quoted message said:


    Jasper Janssen said:

    ... a bottle generator, they're around 35-40% efficient
    for the good ones. About Half of that is the tyre/generator interface and
    the rest is frictional and electric losses.

    Jasper, do you know anything about bottle generators running on the
    rim's braking surface? I saw one once, and it struck me that it might
    reduce that first type of loss.

    My current sidewall-driven unit is fairly new, and it inflicts
    much less drag than the venerable old Union bottle generators.
    And that's after replacing the stock, soft rubber drivewheel
    with a metal one off an old Union unit. It purrs along like
    a contented kitten. And that's just a MOR bottle generator
    that cost about $28.

    cheers,
    Tom

    --
    -- Nothing is safe from me.
    Above address is just a spam midden.
    I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca

  4. Quoted message said:
    Jasper Janssen said:
    Quoted message said:

    None were anywhere near $100 (although the FER was a
    closeout). All give very good light and very good reliability. All
    have lasted for many years.

    http://www.roseversand.com/rose_main.cfm?KAT_ID=0&PRD_ID=15926&spr_id=2&MID=0&CID=175

    FER is currently 25 EUR or around US$30.

    Quoted message said:

    Seriously, I think I paid $40 on it from a shop that was going out of
    business. IIRC, they were selling it for near $100! At $30, I'd
    recommend it.

    Understand, it's a quirky unit. It's driven by the front wheel's
    spokes, and it mounts between the front fork and hub, by sliding the
    axle through a hole in the unit. (Somehow, this doesn't work well on
    my commuting bike, but it's fine on my wife's touring bike.) It's got
    a two-stage speed increase from the spoke driver to the generator, by a
    plastic gearset and a tiny toothed timing belt. And the unit is big,
    kind of heavy, and decidedly clunky looking.

    Given that they're selling spare belts in two lengths, I suspect that the
    current version is a two belt system rather than one belt and one plastic
    gearset.

    Quoted message said:

    But it _is_ efficient, quite a bit more than either a typical bottle or
    bottom bracket generator. And the headlight that comes it has very
    good optics indeed. If you can put up with the quirky looks and
    weight, I think it's worth a try. I'd buy it over a Union bottle
    generator in a second.

    Ah. I do not believe this version comes with a headlight. This may account
    for some of the difference in price. It's a standard 6V/3W unit though, so
    all standard generator headlights should work.

    Jasper

  5. On Tue, 11 Oct 2005 18:55:50 -0700, [email hidden] (Tom Keats)

    Quoted message said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    Jasper Janssen said:

    On Wed, 14 Sep 2005 17:48:54 -0700, [email hidden] (Tom Keats)

    Quoted message said:

    Even the antiquated Union U-100 headlights (which I'm
    currently using) have superior optics to any flashlight's.

    If only because flashlights are *designed* to have a beam that's much
    narrower than what you need on a bike.

    Those hi-powered, MR-whatever-bulbed lights pretty much
    have the same [lack of] optics as flashlights.

    Well, if the headlight's light blinds you to whatever's out of the beam,
    it's too powerful anyway.

    Jasper

  6. Quoted message said:
    Jasper Janssen said:

    ... a bottle generator, they're around 35-40% efficient
    for the good ones. About Half of that is the tyre/generator interface and
    the rest is frictional and electric losses.

    Jasper, do you know anything about bottle generators running on the
    rim's braking surface? I saw one once, and it struck me that it might
    reduce that first type of loss.

    I've never seen one in person, but yeah, I would imagine that a solid
    rubber wheel on alu rim surface would cause less losses than a tyre-driven
    bottle. On the other hand, performance in the rain.. bottle dynamos
    already have a bit of a tendency to slip when wet, after all.

    Jasper

  7. Jasper Janssen <[email hidden]> sd / msg
    <[email hidden]> dtd Sat, 15 Oct 2005
    00:52:58 GMT:

    Quoted message said:

    I've never seen one in person, but yeah, I would imagine that a solid
    rubber wheel on alu rim surface would cause less losses than a tyre-driven
    bottle. On the other hand, performance in the rain.. bottle dynamos
    already have a bit of a tendency to slip when wet, after all.

    Yes, I think that's likely. You can get wet-use wheels for some
    bottle dynamos (they are like wire brushes I think). But in the end a
    bottom bracket or (best of all ) hub is likely to be better.

    Guy
    --
    May contain traces of irony. Contents liable to settle after posting.
    http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk

    85% of helmet statistics are made up, 69% of them at CHS, Puget Sound

  8. In article <[email hidden]>,

    Just zis Guy said:

    Jasper Janssen <[email hidden]> sd / msg
    <[email hidden]> dtd Sat, 15 Oct 2005
    00:52:58 GMT:

    Quoted message said:

    I've never seen one in person, but yeah, I would imagine that a solid
    rubber wheel on alu rim surface would cause less losses than a tyre-driven
    bottle. On the other hand, performance in the rain.. bottle dynamos
    already have a bit of a tendency to slip when wet, after all.

    Yes, I think that's likely. You can get wet-use wheels for some
    bottle dynamos (they are like wire brushes I think). But in the end a
    bottom bracket or (best of all ) hub is likely to be better.

    I've got a relatively new bottle generator (purchased last
    January) and it has no slipping-when-wet issues at all.
    I've even purposely ridden through puddles to see if it
    would slip.

    However I've gone through some previously-owned
    bottle generators that eventually did start
    slipping in the rain, but that was after a /lot/
    of use.

    So I consider the slipping problem might not be
    intrinsic to the drivewheel/tire interface, but
    rather develops from some sort of internal wear.
    I've noticed how these units do fling a lot of
    muck around when used in the rain (as evidenced
    by the buildup on the near brake arm.) I wouldn't
    be surprised if little gritty particles eventually
    managed to also work their ways inside the unit,
    causing wear which eventually allows enough moisture
    inside as well, to cause intermittent (i.e: in wet
    conditions) shorts, and giving the impression
    of slippage.

    So bottle generators aren't immortal. But for
    their low cost, one can still get a lot of good
    use out of them. Even in the rain.

    cheers,
    Tom

    --
    -- Nothing is safe from me.
    Above address is just a spam midden.
    I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca

  9. Tom Keats said:

    I've got a relatively new bottle generator (purchased last
    January) and it has no slipping-when-wet issues at all.
    I've even purposely ridden through puddles to see if it
    would slip.

    However I've gone through some previously-owned
    bottle generators that eventually did start
    slipping in the rain, but that was after a /lot/
    of use.

    So I consider the slipping problem might not be
    intrinsic to the drivewheel/tire interface, but
    rather develops from some sort of internal wear.

    It's been decades since I used a bottle generator very much. I
    switched to mostly bottom bracket models back around 1978, I think.

    But I note that the Union models I've got downstairs have a cylindrical
    roller, with serrations of course.

    I recall the oft-noted fact that bike tires need no tread sipes, since
    the toroidal shape of a smooth tire "parts the waters" on the road.
    Applying this logic to a generator's drive wheel, ISTM a toroidal shape
    would likely do better than a cylindrical shape.

    I once planned to modify a Union drive wheel by machining a slot for a
    heavy O-ring, and trying that on the rim's braking surface. But it's
    probably going to stay on the far back burner for another year.

    - Frank Krygowski

    Quoted message said:

    I've noticed how these units do fling a lot of
    muck around when used in the rain (as evidenced
    by the buildup on the near brake arm.) I wouldn't
    be surprised if little gritty particles eventually
    managed to also work their ways inside the unit,
    causing wear which eventually allows enough moisture
    inside as well, to cause intermittent (i.e: in wet
    conditions) shorts, and giving the impression
    of slippage.

    So bottle generators aren't immortal. But for
    their low cost, one can still get a lot of good
    use out of them. Even in the rain.

    cheers,
    Tom

    --
    -- Nothing is safe from me.
    Above address is just a spam midden.
    I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca

  10. [email hidden] (Tom Keats) sd / msg
    <[email hidden]> dtd Sat, 15 Oct 2005 10:44:47 -0700:

    Quoted message said:

    I've got a relatively new bottle generator (purchased last
    January) and it has no slipping-when-wet issues at all.
    I've even purposely ridden through puddles to see if it
    would slip.

    What model? We have the problem with a newish B&M on my wife's bike.
    Admittedly it's been adjusted so as not to exert too much pressure,
    maybe I've been a bit too cautious there. On the other hand if the
    pressure is too great it shreds the rubber generator wheels!

    Guy
    --
    May contain traces of irony. Contents liable to settle after posting.
    http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk

    85% of helmet statistics are made up, 69% of them at CHS, Puget Sound

  11. Jasper Janssen said:

    On Wed, 14 Sep 2005 17:48:54 -0700, [email hidden] (Tom Keats)

    Quoted message said:

    Even the antiquated Union U-100 headlights (which I'm
    currently using) have superior optics to any flashlight's.

    If only because flashlights are *designed* to have a beam that's much
    narrower than what you need on a bike.

    It depends on the flashlight. Many of the higher end flashlights have
    optics that can adjust the beam from spot to flood, as needed.

    The MR series of matched bulbs/reflectors are more efficient, but not
    adjustable. Often you'll see a dual lamp arrangement, with one spot and
    one flood, which also provides some redundancy.

  12. SMS <[email hidden]> sd / msg
    <[email hidden]> dtd Sun, 16 Oct 2005 03:45:16
    GMT:

    Quoted message said:

    It depends on the flashlight. Many of the higher end flashlights have
    optics that can adjust the beam from spot to flood, as needed.

    But still a rotationally symmetrical beam, which means lots of wasted
    light and a danger of causing dazzle to oncoming traffic at high
    brightness (which is why no OEM car lights have rotationally
    symmetrical optics).

    Quoted message said:

    The MR series of matched bulbs/reflectors are more efficient, but not
    adjustable. Often you'll see a dual lamp arrangement, with one spot and
    one flood, which also provides some redundancy.

    And again, rotationally symmetrical. I guess in the decorative
    lighting for which these were originally designed, that is not an
    issue :-) And of course it's fine for offroad use.

    But Frank's right, even quite ancient dynamo lamps have better optics.
    The best optics of any bike lamp, for road use, are probably those of
    the old Bisy FL, now sold as the SON E6.

    Guy
    --
    May contain traces of irony. Contents liable to settle after posting.
    http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk

    85% of helmet statistics are made up, 69% of them at CHS, Puget Sound

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