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Groupsets and prices

Started by D.M. Procida · · Last activity · 65 posts · 7,926 views

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UK and Europe
Published
17 October 2007
Last activity
20 October 2007
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D.M. Procida
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  1. Is there somewhere that will inform me what the quantitative (as in:
    better, lighter, stronger) and qualitative (as in: which one is suitable
    for which application) features of the various groupset classes are?

    I see Tiagra, Sora and what-not written all over the place, but I don't
    know what they actually mean.

    Daniele

  2. D.M. Procida said:

    Is there somewhere that will inform me what the quantitative (as in:
    better, lighter, stronger) and qualitative (as in: which one is
    suitable for which application) features of the various groupset
    classes are?

    No, not all that. See manuacturer websites for weights and some specs.

    ~PB

  3. Pete Biggs said:
    Quoted message said:

    Is there somewhere that will inform me what the quantitative (as in:
    better, lighter, stronger) and qualitative (as in: which one is
    suitable for which application) features of the various groupset
    classes are?

    No, not all that. See manuacturer websites for weights and some specs.

    I have, which is why I'm asking. Have a look at:

    <http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/catalog/cycle/products/category.jsp?FOLDER%
    3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302049838&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=1408474395181667&
    bmUID=1192642190747>

    for example.

    Dura-ace: Performance without compromise
    Ultegra: New spirit of the sport
    Ultegra SL (2008): lightweight and new Ice Grey color
    Tiagra (2007): Advanced functions for sport and fitness riders

    That provides no clue whatsoever about the place of these products
    within Shimano's hierarchy. It's all marketing-speak with hardly any
    content. One or two do give away a bit:

    Sora (2008): Great appearance for entry level riders.

    Looking more closely at the specs doesn't say much more, really, unless
    weight is the ultimate guage of the product's place in the
    manufacturer's range.

    Daniele

  4. (D.M. Procida) said:

    Is there somewhere that will inform me what the quantitative (as in:
    better, lighter, stronger) and qualitative (as in: which one is suitable
    for which application) features of the various groupset classes are?

    I see Tiagra, Sora and what-not written all over the place, but I don't
    know what they actually mean.

    I compiled a list for myself for the 2007 Shimano range of products with
    the marketing blurb underneath it. Two ranges: road and mtb, listed from
    most expensive to most affordable. You can expect weight order to be
    lightest to heaviest.

    FWIW it is my experience that all Shimano's groupsets perform
    adequately, including the cheapest lines.

    You might want to try stating what you are looking for since there are
    differences between groupsets that are not evident from this list.

    Shimano products 2007
    ---------------------

    Road range
    ----------

    Dura-Ace 7800
    Performance without compromise

    Dura-Ace 7803 - Triple
    Dura-Ace Triple

    Ultegra 6600
    Ultegra defines the "New Spirit of the Sport"

    Ultegra 6603 - Triple (52-39-30) (10 speed)
    Proven in your neighborhood and on the world's greatest road courses.

    Shimano 105 - 5600
    From Shimano's experience in pro road racing - Shimano 105

    Shimano 105 - Triple (50-39-30) (10 speed)
    From Shimano's experience in pro road racing - Shimano 105

    Tiagra (triple: 52-42-30) (9 speed)
    Components for a new generation of recreational road bikes

    Sora
    For the more casual sport-recreation road bike

    2200
    Affordable components to inspire more people to enjoy road cycling

    MTB range
    ---------

    XTR
    The benchmark of cross country component design

    Deore XT
    The tradition of shimano MTB components

    Deore LX
    High-energy components that are at home on or off the road

    Saint 135
    Heavy duty MTB components for bikes with 135mm rear hub spacing

    Saint 150
    Heavy duty MTB components for bikes with 83mm BB shell & 150mm rear
    hub spacing

    Hone
    Affordable All-Mountain & enduro MTB components

    Deore
    High-perfomance components for serious cycling fun

    Alivio
    Great performance and great MTB fun, on or off-road.

    Acera
    8-speed recreational components

    Altus
    Responsive MTB-style components

    Tourney
    Looks and performance for entry model sport bikes

    --
    Membrane

  5. Membrane said:
    (D.M. Procida) said:

    Is there somewhere that will inform me what the quantitative (as in:
    better, lighter, stronger) and qualitative (as in: which one is suitable
    for which application) features of the various groupset classes are?

    I see Tiagra, Sora and what-not written all over the place, but I don't
    know what they actually mean.

    You might want to try stating what you are looking for since there are
    differences between groupsets that are not evident from this list.

    Mainly, I'm trying understand bike manufacturers' specs, because I have
    to replace some kit that was stolen.

    Anyway, it's road/touring bike kit.

    I'm more puzzled than ever now - lots of touring or road bikes seem to
    be equipped with mountain-bike gearsets (most of the Dawes touring
    range, for example).

    So is there a real difference between road and mountain-bike gear-sets
    then?

    Thanks for the list, it's helpful.

    Daniele

  6. D.M. Procida said:
    Pete Biggs said:
    Quoted message said:

    Is there somewhere that will inform me what the quantitative (as in:
    better, lighter, stronger) and qualitative (as in: which one is
    suitable for which application) features of the various groupset
    classes are?


    No, not all that. See manuacturer websites for weights and some specs.

    I have, which is why I'm asking. Have a look at:
    <http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/catalog/cycle/products/category.jsp?FOLDER%
    3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302049838&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=1408474395181667&
    bmUID=1192642190747>
    Looking more closely at the specs doesn't say much more, really, unless
    weight is the ultimate guage of the product's place in the
    manufacturer's range.

    It is all down to weight and longevity.
    The cheaper they are, the heavier, and poorly made they are (mostly -
    there are a few exceptions).
    All will work perfectly well when new. Some will wear out quicker, and
    cannot be repaired, so new component needed. Rear deraileurs are
    considered to be a service part, and will need renewing occasionally, as
    are chains and cogs.
    Go for mid range and the parts will last a reasonable time in use.
    Have a look at Campagnolo equipped bikes, the groupset prices are
    similar, and sometimes cheaper, with IMO, better quality, and (mainly)
    repairable shifters and deraileurs, so if you break a spring, it can be
    repaired, unlike with shimano, where a broken spring means a new
    component rather than a repair.
    Alan.

    --
    To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.

  7. D.M. Procida said:
    Pete Biggs said:
    Quoted message said:

    Is there somewhere that will inform me what the quantitative (as in:
    better, lighter, stronger) and qualitative (as in: which one is
    suitable for which application) features of the various groupset
    classes are?

    No, not all that. See manuacturer websites for weights and some
    specs.

    I have, which is why I'm asking. Have a look at:

    <http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/catalog/cycle/products/category.jsp?FOLDER%
    3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302049838&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=1408474395181667&
    bmUID=1192642190747>

    for example.

    Dura-ace: Performance without compromise
    Ultegra: New spirit of the sport
    Ultegra SL (2008): lightweight and new Ice Grey color
    Tiagra (2007): Advanced functions for sport and fitness
    riders

    That provides no clue whatsoever about the place of these products
    within Shimano's hierarchy.

    They are in order from most expensive and lightest to cheapest and heaviest.

    Quoted message said:

    It's all marketing-speak with hardly any
    content.

    That's why I recommend the sites only for weights and /some/ specs. For
    some you have to delve deep into PDF exploded diagrams and instructions, and
    compare small parts of components of one group with another. They don't
    make it easy!

    Quoted message said:

    One or two do give away a bit:

    Sora (2008): Great appearance for entry level riders.

    Looking more closely at the specs doesn't say much more, really,
    unless weight is the ultimate guage of the product's place in the
    manufacturer's range.

    Yes it is.

    The cheaper groups tend to be adequately strong and durable. In fact some
    bits of them like chainrings are /more/ durable in some cases, since they
    are made from steel instead of aluminium.

    The more expensive groups may have some more durable parts, but in the main
    they are just lightier, prettier and have more twiddly bits for adjustment,
    etc. Also, not so many gears with the cheapest Shimano groups.

    ~PB

  8. D.M. Procida said:
    Membrane said:
    (D.M. Procida) said:

    Is there somewhere that will inform me what the quantitative (as in:
    better, lighter, stronger) and qualitative (as in: which one is
    suitable for which application) features of the various groupset
    classes are?

    I see Tiagra, Sora and what-not written all over the place, but I
    don't know what they actually mean.

    You might want to try stating what you are looking for since there
    are differences between groupsets that are not evident from this
    list.

    Mainly, I'm trying understand bike manufacturers' specs, because I
    have to replace some kit that was stolen.

    Anyway, it's road/touring bike kit.

    I'm more puzzled than ever now - lots of touring or road bikes seem to
    be equipped with mountain-bike gearsets (most of the Dawes touring
    range, for example).

    So is there a real difference between road and mountain-bike gear-sets
    then?

    In Shimano-land, the "road" groupsets tend to have fairly close-ratio rear
    sprockets, and the rear-changers are designed for those small ranges.
    Therefore, in order to get wide-range gears (for lugging a loaded tourer up
    a mountain pass), makers end up with the MTB rear sprockets and rear
    derailleur. That then tends to dictate a MTB crankset (or you end up with
    the stupidity of a 53-11 top gear on a tourer, or the maker has to
    substitute individual rings which gets very expensive). However, the
    general drift to 10-speed for STI levers may cause some problems for those
    bike makers unless the MTB ranges also go 10-speed.

    The front changers for Shimano used (think still do) to have different cable
    pulls between MTB and Road, so to use the drop-bar STI levers, the front
    derailleur needs to be a Road one.

    The standard width of a rear-hub is 130mm for "road" and 135mm for "MTB".
    But there is nothing to stop a frame maker producing a tourer with 135mm
    rear spacing. Sprockets from either MTB or Road will fit either hub types
    (subject to derailleur capacity).

    As for quality, I suspect go above LX or 105 and you're really into "cannot
    tell difference unless professional racing" territory.

    Campagnolo-land is different. However, the 2007 range seems to have made
    some of the non-standard combinations more complicated (such as mixing
    Campag ergo-shifters with other makers derailleurs and sprockets).

    Hope this helps.

    - Nigel

    --

    Nigel Cliffe,
    Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/

  9. D.M. Procida said:

    Mainly, I'm trying understand bike manufacturers' specs, because I
    have to replace some kit that was stolen.

    Anyway, it's road/touring bike kit.

    First decide on: size gears you want, type of shifters, amount to spend.

    Quoted message said:

    I'm more puzzled than ever now - lots of touring or road bikes seem to
    be equipped with mountain-bike gearsets (most of the Dawes touring
    range, for example).

    "Road" groupsets are still designed largely with racing in mind, despite
    them including triple chainsets. But you could make them more suitable for
    touring type bikes by fitting smaller chainrings or using a touring chainset
    from another maker -- having ring sizes in between those used for
    racing/training and mountain biking. Dawes's solution is poor, IMHO.

    Quoted message said:

    So is there a real difference between road and mountain-bike gear-sets
    then?

    Major differences with gear ratios, and types of handlebars the shifters are
    designed for. MTB hubs are better sealed as well.

    ~PB

  10. D.M. Procida said:


    Looking more closely at the specs doesn't say much more, really, unless
    weight is the ultimate guage of the product's place in the
    manufacturer's range.

    Daniele

    With an engineering background you can read more into the specs 😉

    sticking to roadbikes

    Finish of Sora is a bit cheapish, with the brakelevers having sharp
    bits/shiftlevers sticking out
    Tiagra is perfectly adequate
    105 is a bit nicer with lighter chainrings, better finish on the hubs etc
    As you had to ask Ultegra is probably not worth the expense, unless you
    do high mileage as the chainrings will last a bit longer or you happen
    to find a particular good deal

    Ultegra SL, Dura Ace: not worth it for you, either you know you /NEED/
    the stuff or you can safely ignore it

    Campagnolo Veloce is OK too, but spares are more difficult to find and
    mixing with MTB parts is difficult
    --
    /Marten

    info(apestaartje)m-gineering(punt)nl

  11. M-gineering said:

    Campagnolo Veloce is OK too, but spares are more difficult to find and
    mixing with MTB parts is difficult

    Campag spares are easy to find online.

    ~PB

  12. Pete Biggs said:
    M-gineering said:

    Campagnolo Veloce is OK too, but spares are more difficult to find and
    mixing with MTB parts is difficult

    Campag spares are easy to find online.

    ~PB


    Only works if you do your own maintenance and if the mail isn't on strike 😉

    --
    /Marten

    info(apestaartje)m-gineering(punt)nl

  13. alan@darkroom.+.com (A.Lee) said:

    It is all down to weight and longevity.
    The cheaper they are, the heavier, and poorly made they are (mostly -
    there are a few exceptions).

    I'd say the opposite is more likely to be true. At the top end it is
    all about minuscule performance advantages, durability is not relevant
    to the target group: the pro's. Pro's don't give a mickey for how long
    something lasts, they usually get their gear for free.

    --
    Membrane

  14. in message
    <[email hidden]>,

    D.M. Procida (') said:

    Is there somewhere that will inform me what the quantitative (as in:
    better, lighter, stronger) and qualitative (as in: which one is suitable
    for which application) features of the various groupset classes are?

    I see Tiagra, Sora and what-not written all over the place, but I don't
    know what they actually mean.

    Nasty Japanese muck - don't touch it.

    My 'good' bike is all Centaur, which is third-from-top Campag - about the
    same engineering quality as top of the range Shimano. It's all very nice
    and, three years on, everything still just works[tm] (it does have
    this-year's QS Ergo levers). My cross bike has the old Ergo levers from my
    good bike, a Centaur BB, Centaur cassette, Xenon (bottom of the range)
    crankset, Veloce derailleurs. It's a revelation how crisp even cheap
    Campag transmissions are even on truly evil hills - changing gear under
    full out-of-the-saddle stomping load is just click, click, click.

    Seriously, and religion apart, I do think you get substantially better
    value for money from Campag than from Shimano. Similar quality engineering
    is cheaper; all the spare parts are available (you can't get spares for
    STI levers, you can for Ergos); and it all works so much better.

    What you pay extra for (at least with Campag) are better finish and more
    exotic materials. The bottom of the range stuff is light, strong and well
    engineered, but the finish isn't that durable - for example the branding
    on the Xenon crankset is essentially paper labels stuck on. The Centaur
    stuff is mostly aluminium (some carbon fibre, this year), but it's all
    exceedingly highly polished and well finished, and my three-year old, been
    through one major crash and about 10,000 miles, kit looks pretty much like
    new, so it's durable. The higher groupsets have more carbon and titanium.

    A complete Xenon 10 speed groupset (without hubs) will set you back under
    £190. A complete Centaur set (again no hubs) is twice as much at £380.
    Chorus is twice as much again and I think you're into diminishing returns;
    Record is close to a thousand for the groupset, and definitely into
    diminishing returns (but gorgeous).

    Against that, you'll pay pretty much the same price for Dura-Ace as for
    Chorus, or pretty much the same for Ultegra as for Centaur, and I just
    don't think it's good enough at that price. For the price of a Xenon 10
    speed group, Shimano will sell you Sora - which is only 8 speed, and not
    nearly so slick in use. If you've got pots of money to spend the new SRAM
    groupsets are worth a look because they genuinely are really nice, but
    Rival is between Centaur and Chorus in price while Force is up there with
    Record.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

    ;; Good grief, I can remember when England won the Ashes.

  15. in message <[email hidden]>, M-gineering

    (') said:

    Campagnolo Veloce is OK too, but spares are more difficult to find and
    mixing with MTB parts is difficult

    The difference is you phone the nice man at Parkers and every last screw
    and spring from everything Campag has made in the past ten years -
    probably longer - is available by next day's post at reasonable price. If
    you want bits to fix a Shimano STI lever or derailleur, you can whistle -
    they aren't available at all.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

    X-no-archive: No, I'm not *that* naive.

  16. (D.M. Procida) said:

    Mainly, I'm trying understand bike manufacturers' specs, because I have
    to replace some kit that was stolen.

    It would help to know what gearing and controls you had on your bike and
    how you got on with it.

    Quoted message said:

    I'm more puzzled than ever now - lots of touring or road bikes seem to
    be equipped with mountain-bike gearsets (most of the Dawes touring
    range, for example).

    MTB gearing goes lower and is thereby more suitable for more leisurely
    riders, loaded touring, and for those of us who are not supremely fit.

    My "sportive" bike is equipped with a low end MTB gearing and it works
    very well for me. It allows me to get up really steep mountains without
    having to stretch myself (I can stay seated and spin my way up with an
    80rpm cadence on the steepests of inclines). Having to overcome
    inadequate gearing by standing can sour up leg muscles through a build
    up of lactic acid, something that can wreak havoc later on a longer
    ride. Even on long rides when my legs have gone I can still get home in
    relative comfort if there are one or more mountains to be scaled.

    The downside of lower MTB gearing is that you'll run out of top gears
    earlier, but that only happens to me on steep descends.

    --
    Membrane

  17. Membrane said:
    Quoted message said:

    Mainly, I'm trying understand bike manufacturers' specs, because I have
    to replace some kit that was stolen.

    It would help to know what gearing and controls you had on your bike and
    how you got on with it.

    Dawes Horizon - <http://www.dawescycles.com/dawes/horizon.htm>. I assume
    the specification is pretty much the same as the 2005 model.

    That says: "24 speed Shimano Alivio with STI shifters".

    I got on with it just fine. I mostly stayed in the middle chainring, and
    made use of most of the cassette. I did occasionally shift for another
    gear only to find that the next sprocket was too far in the other
    direction, so perhaps that suggests they should have been closer
    together (or perhaps it suggests that I'm a bit weedier than I'd like to
    think).

    Quoted message said:

    My "sportive" bike is equipped with a low end MTB gearing and it works
    very well for me. It allows me to get up really steep mountains without
    having to stretch myself (I can stay seated and spin my way up with an
    80rpm cadence on the steepests of inclines). Having to overcome
    inadequate gearing by standing can sour up leg muscles through a build
    up of lactic acid, something that can wreak havoc later on a longer
    ride. Even on long rides when my legs have gone I can still get home in
    relative comfort if there are one or more mountains to be scaled.

    The downside of lower MTB gearing is that you'll run out of top gears
    earlier, but that only happens to me on steep descends.

    I bottled out of my fastest descent at about 66km/h, and while I was
    pedalling fast in top gear, it was still comfortably in my range.

    Daniele

  18. (D.M. Procida) said:

    That says: "24 speed Shimano Alivio with STI shifters".

    I got on with it just fine. I mostly stayed in the middle chainring, and
    made use of most of the cassette. I did occasionally shift for another
    gear only to find that the next sprocket was too far in the other
    direction, so perhaps that suggests they should have been closer
    together (or perhaps it suggests that I'm a bit weedier than I'd like to
    think).

    Compared to road gearing, mtb gearing has bigger jumps between gears, no
    way to solve that other than moving to road gearing. Alivio comes in
    different chainring configurations, the most common is 42-32-22,
    48-38-28 is also an option. Given that the gearing on your bike suited
    you, I's suggest staying with the same gearing you had. What model you
    choose is far less important than choosing the right gear ratios.

    --
    Membrane

  19. Simon Brooke said:

    in message <[email hidden]>, M-gineering

    (') said:

    Campagnolo Veloce is OK too, but spares are more difficult to find and
    mixing with MTB parts is difficult



    You're the second poster taking offense at this. According to my
    dictionaries 'more difficult' is not equal to 'impossible'. Do I need an
    update?

    Quoted message said:

    The difference is you phone the nice man at Parkers and every last screw
    and spring from everything Campag has made in the past ten years -
    probably longer - is available by next day's post at reasonable price. If
    you want bits to fix a Shimano STI lever or derailleur, you can whistle -
    they aren't available at all.

    Given the list of available spares for brakes or rear derailleurs I'm
    getting more and more concerned about those dictionaries 😉:
    Y5VB34000
    Y5VB19000
    Y52U98010
    Y5U525000
    Y5VA16000
    Y53M24000
    Y5U523000
    Y54A18200
    Y56954420
    Y56954400
    Y5TW35010
    Y56954900
    Y56954700
    Y5TW35020
    Y5TJ98050
    Y5V598050
    Y5VA10100
    Y5TN98030
    Y5VA10000
    Y5UN21000
    Y53N26000
    Y5VB18000
    Y5UN98100
    Y5VN98090
    Y5TJ98100
    Y5VM98070
    Y5VP98050
    Y53H98080
    Y53Z98100
    Y54B98030
    Y55798080
    Y56398370
    Y5T498040
    Y5T798010
    Y5T898040
    Y5TJ98080
    Y5TJ98140
    Y5TP98080
    Y5TW98040
    Y5TZ98110
    Y5U398070
    Y5U598080
    Y5UF98050
    Y5V598070
    Y5VG98100
    Y5VH98100
    Y5VH98110
    Y53H98100
    Y53Z98110
    Y54B98040
    Y55798100
    Y56398390
    Y5T298010
    Y5T498050
    Y5T598020
    Y5T798030
    Y5T898050
    Y5TJ98090
    Y5TJ98160
    Y5TP98090
    Y5TW98050
    Y5TZ98130
    Y5U598100
    Y5UF98060
    Y5V598090
    Y5V998060
    Y56398100
    Y5VP10000
    Y5T098070
    Y5TJ09000
    Y5TM98040
    Y5U509000
    Y5VG09000
    Y5VJ09000
    Y5TP10400
    Y5U510000
    Y53Z08000
    Y53Z08200
    Y53Z08300
    Y5TJ08000
    Y5V508100
    Y5TJ98120
    Y5U598040
    Y5VA98050
    Y5TK98040
    Y5TM98030
    Y5U598050
    Y5VA98060
    Y5TK98030
    Y5TZ28000
    Y5T098020
    Y5T498020
    Y5TZ98010
    Y5TZ98030
    Y5VW98030
    Y5UG98020
    Y5VM98030
    Y5VP98040
    Y5VB98050
    Y5TW98020
    Y53Z98050
    Y5TJ98040
    Y5V598040
    Y5VG98050
    Y52A98010
    Y53Z98040
    Y54N98030
    Y5T498060
    Y5TJ98030
    Y5VA98030
    Y5VG98040
    Y5VM98020
    Y5VN98030
    Y5VP98030
    Y5TW98010
    Y53Z98010
    Y5TA98010
    Y5TJ98010
    Y5TJ98110
    Y5TK98010
    Y5TL98010
    Y5TM98010
    Y5TR98010
    Y5TS98010
    Y5TU98010
    Y5TZ98070
    Y5U498010
    Y5U598010
    Y5V598010
    Y5V998010
    Y5VA98010
    Y5VB98010
    Y5VG98010
    Y5VG98020
    Y5VJ98010
    Y5VM98010
    Y5VP98010
    Y5U598030
    Y54Z98080
    Y3C298030
    Y5VB33000
    Y5TP98030
    Y5TN13000
    Y5VB98030
    Y6FM98110
    Y6FM98100
    Y6BD90800
    Y6GT51000
    Y6CX98080
    Y6GT01000
    Y6GT89100
    Y6GT89000
    Y6KK53000
    Y6KK03000
    Y6GT88100
    Y6GT88000
    Y6KK52000
    Y6KK02000
    Y6CU39000
    Y6JJ70000
    Y6JB98050
    Y6BX98080
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    --
    /Marten

    info(apestaartje)m-gineering(punt)nl

  20. In news:[email hidden],
    Simon Brooke <[email hidden]> tweaked the Babbage-Engine to tell us:

    Quoted message said:

    If you've got pots of money to
    spend the new SRAM groupsets are worth a look because they genuinely
    are really nice, but Rival is between Centaur and Chorus in price
    while Force is up there with Record.

    But some genius decided to make the derailleurs incompatible with SRAM's
    existing MTB kit. So if you want to use them with twist-grip shifters, you
    can't. Nice one, Centurion.

    --
    Dave Larrington
    <http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk>
    Ha ha, you fool! You've fallen victim to one of the classic
    blunders! The most famous is "Never get involved in a land war
    in Asia"

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