Cutting a steerer

Ryan Cousineau said:

Interesting...I didn't really understand the purpose of the nut and top cap. Although I realize
that stems can spin around as easily as they can go up, I was under the impression it was good
form to leave the stem loose enough that in a crash, the stem turns rather than something breaking
(the bar, most likely).

I think it is possible to have stem tight enough to stay put during normal cycling yet loose enough
to turn in a crash. That's apparently what Sheldon aims for. I'm a little paranoid about stem coming
loose so I might have mine too tight for that.

Quoted message said:

In such a case, doesn't the top cap and star nut prevent the stem from creeping up the steer tube
and slackening the head bearings?

Probably/hopefully not. I doubt the expanding wedge type devices could hold the stem down anyway.

Quoted message said:

You realize of course, this theory ends with the madness of me removing my star nut and rerouting
the front brake cable through the steer tube.

Why? So I can remove the rear brake and do bar-spins on my XC mountain bike, of course.

This thread has inspired me to remove my 1" Woodman wedge insert thingy and replace it with a
handlebar end plug (bulked out with some electrical tape). Why? To save 35 grams :-)

~PB

On 15 Jan 2004 20:05:43 -0800, [email hidden] (Carl Fogel)

Quoted message said:

Ordinary soft-pipe cutters usually have a pair of rollers opposed at one end of a C-clap and a
cutting wheel at the other end. You tighten the clamp on the pipe and roll it around to carve
a groove.

I was thinking that I have one of these, but what I actually have is a bigger version of that,
intended for cutting lolly columns. A lolly column is a thin-walled metal pipe, 3 or 4 inches, pre-
filled with concrete and used as a vertical support for load-bearing beams in houses. This cutter
does a pretty quick job of lolly columns by offering lots of leverage in the clamping handle and the
turning handle.

The cutter I have is probably upwards of 40 lbs; to cut a steerer with it, the cutter would need to
be stationary, and only an extremely light clamping force used. I could, of course, just use an
electric miter saw instead, which would probably still be quicker after a couple minutes spent
replacing the wood-cutting blade.

Quoted message said:

Larger snap-cutters are for more brittle cast-iron soil pipes. They simply lash a heavy chain
(decorated with numerous brutal cutting wheels) around the pipe, tighten things down with a huge
screw-handle, swing back and forth a few degrees with a long lever to score a groove, and then
crack or snap through the pipe with another brisk twist of the screw-handle.

OIC; they have cutting wheels for rollers.

Quoted message said:

Modern reciprocating saws aren't as much fun in a cramped space, particularly when whatever's
still inside the pipe will drip down onto the electrical tool (and your face) while you're making
your cut.

I make a point of avoiding those types of tasks.

Quoted message said:

Ed Norton

--
Rick Onanian

Rick Onanian said:

How the hell does that work? Does it use a localized crushing effect to break the pipe where you
want it? Or are the chain's plates sharpened? Or maybe, while looking much like a steroidal
bicycle chain, it's actually a chainsaw-ish chain? Or are there a bunch of little sharpened wheels
for rollers?

As both cast iron and concrete are brittle, the tool is unlikely to work on a steerer tube :-(