bike geometry to get bent arms

[metropical75]

first lemme say, aging sucks.
I bought a new seat which is helping in comfort in that there is no longer pressure on my bone.
New tape, Cinelli silicon/cork.
My hands hit the bar at about 75º, which I feel is too high as my arms are barely bent. I think I should be ~ 60º.
Dropped the saddle height and figure I prolly have to move the saddle a little closer to compensate the drop.
When I peddle, should my leg at the top of the stroke, be horizontal or a little high or low?

General consensus. I know there is more to this than the simplicity I'm asking.
But I'm not dropping $300 for a custom fitting at a bike shop that is looking to sell me a new $2500 bike with a built in cappuccino machine.
It's a 2008 Cannondale CAAD9-6.

 

[cobbwheels]

I could barely imagine what you're trying to do here.

Pictures of you on the bike in the riding posture, one pedal at the bottom would help.

 

[metropical75]

hmm, on daylight.

 

[Fourlegsgood2wheelsbad]

How bent your arms are has little to do with geometry IMHO when you are keeping nose out of wind or forcing the pedals down . Endurance bike ? lower your nose it's a race bike.

Can one endure aero positions and for how long to be effective. Will body tolerate. ?
I'd read if you have trouble keeping nose out of the wind don't bother with aero bike.

At risk of ridicule here's some bent arms forcing the pedals down , coming over the lip of summit last couple strokes of hellish climb lol . Kissing the stem , has all the spacers still.

 

[baker3]

Hi @metropical75 ,It sounds like you're making some adjustments to your bike to improve your comfort and performance. In terms of your question about bike geometry and getting bent arms, it's important to find the right fit for your body to avoid discomfort and injury. While a professional bike fitting can be expensive, it may be worth considering if you're experiencing persistent discomfort or pain. In the meantime, you can try adjusting your saddle height and position to find a more comfortable riding position. As for the position of your leg at the top of the pedal stroke, it's generally recommended to aim for a slight bend in your knee rather than a fully extended leg. This can help reduce strain on your joints and improve your pedaling efficiency.Best of luck with your adjustments!

 

[metropical75]

any suggestions are welcome.
as far as the leg, I was more thinking at the top of the stroke when the leg is parallel to the top tube. Though as one can see my leg is slightly bent on the drive down.

 

[Mr. Beanz]

Imo, you need a much shorter stem. Maybe a 80 or 90 with a slight rise.

Your stem looks like a 130 (?). I had it on one of my bikes and had o change to an 80 because of the geometry of the bike.

I have 2 roadies, both same size but different stem lengths because of the geometry. The Cannondale a criterium type race bike, steep angles. While the Madone more a relaxed road race type of geometry has a 120 stem with no issues.

Also, you can get a seat post with ZERO setback that will put you about an inch closer to the handle bars. I have one on both my bikes.

 

[Mr. Beanz]

Check out the difference in my stem length though both bikes are same size. The geometry made a big difference in my case. Also the seat posts are zero setback.

If I had known back in 1998 what I know now, I would have gotten the Cannondale in a different size. But with the modifications, I love this bike and still ride it after 25 years.

 

[metropical75]

that stem appears to be 90@7º.
The OEM is 100@7º.
There is prolly enough length on the saddle rail to bring it an inch closer.
I did try a shorter stem last year, but it was a rather steep angle. That def didn't cut it.

 

[cobbwheels]

any suggestions are welcome.
as far as the leg, I was more thinking at the top of the stroke when the leg is parallel to the top tube. Though as one can see my leg is slightly bent on the drive down.

The top of the leg stroke doesn't really matter but it looks like you may have set your saddle height too low. Try increasing the saddle height by 5mm to 10mm, not more.

Otherwise, you look comfortable in your riding position. If you're looking for more aggressive riding position, just tilt your brake hoods forward. More aggressive may be less comfortable however.

 

[Fourlegsgood2wheelsbad]

OP how tall are you and is there any slight chance the frame size is a size small for you ?

 

[Fourlegsgood2wheelsbad]

The top of the leg stroke doesn't really matter but it looks like you may have set your saddle height too low. Try increasing the saddle height by 5mm to 10mm, not more.

Otherwise, you look comfortable in your riding position. If you're looking for more aggressive riding position, just tilt your brake hoods forward. More aggressive may be less comfortable however.

I'd think tilting the hoods forward would cause the elbows to bend
as the head and trunk lower and come forward . Ditto on less comfortable.

 

[cobbwheels]

I'd think tilting the hoods forward would cause the elbows to bend
as the head and trunk lower and come forward . Ditto on less comfortable.

I used to setup my brake hoods like the OP and actually did the the opposite for me and made it easier to bend the elbows without straining my wrist.

Last year, I tilted my brake hoods forward almost level to give easy access to the brake levers when riding on the drops. It was hard on my wrist at first when riding in the hoods but I got used to it.

I think riders should learn to ride on the drops so they don't have to slam their handlebar all the way down, eliminating their ability to ride more upright positions with their hands on the hoods or tops.

Sometimes, riders just slam their handlebar all the way down for the appearance with no real purpose and only suffer as a result.

 

[metropical75]

the hoods are where they have been for the 14 years I've owned the bike.
Trying to get the weight off my hands. Moving the hoods forwards won't do that, nor do I think raising the saddle will.
I will pick up a goniometer and the if I can get my legs to the 25º to 30º as I have seen in a number of bike fitter vids.
The frame prolly is a size to small for me, but I was comfortable on it for quite some time. Hoping to find some compromise in the geo that would't necessitate a new bike, coz that ain't in the cards right now.

 

[cobbwheels]

the hoods are where they have been for the 14 years I've owned the bike.
Trying to get the weight off my hands. Moving the hoods forwards won't do that, nor do I think raising the saddle will.
I will pick up a goniometer and the if I can get my legs to the 25º to 30º as I have seen in a number of bike fitter vids.
The frame prolly is a size to small for me, but I was comfortable on it for quite some time. Hoping to find some compromise in the geo that would't necessitate a new bike, coz that ain't in the cards right now.

Sounds like you might actually end up worse with correctly sized (bigger) frame.

Get your legs to 30 degrees but not less. This will likely require you to raise the saddle but this adjustment is actually more important than your hand comfort. 25 degrees is really more for younger people. It's dangerously close to setting the saddle too high. Too high saddle is worse than too low.

If you end up uncomfortable with the hands, just get a riser stem to raise the handlebar height.

 

[metropical75]

a riser stem! Never heard the term. I'll go look. So 30º acap or is there room to go to say 35º?

 

[metropical75]

but in thinking this thru, since there are already maxed out 5 riser rings on the OEM stem.
Would a riser stem mess it up further? I undertsnad that would replace the riser rings .

 

[metropical75]

did some more reading. seems there are 2 available. Origin8 and Delta. Both available up to ~105mm and come with rings.

 

[cobbwheels]

but in thinking this thru, since there are already maxed out 5 riser rings on the OEM stem.
Would a riser stem mess it up further? I undertsnad that would replace the riser rings .

You can use the riser stem and the spacers (riser rings) together.

There's no need to remove any of the spacers unless you think the handlebar got too high with the riser stem.

I've seen riser stems up to 45 degrees. Note a riser stem would bring the handlebar closer to you if bought the same length as the one you're using now so might consider getting a longer stem unless you do want the handlebar to get closer to you.

 

[metropical75]

I had tried a 25º stem. That was bad news. Handlebar closer I think is what I need, but first lemme gather a goni so I can measure. Then I'll try the stem extension.