elastoplastscavenger said:
the solutions:
iA) replace the shaft. are uni shafts special or will one off of a bike
do the job? are replacement shafts available somewhere on the interweb
if they are special to unis? how do the shaft and hub interface?
iB) call in a favour and get a friend with a lathe to modify a standard
bike shaft
ii) grind and file the shaft so that the crank sits closer to the wheel
allowing the nut to grip onto fresh threads that have not been
stripped.
iii) glue the crank to the shaft
iv) call in a favour and weld the crank to the shaft
v) cut the wrecked threaded part off, drill and tap the shaft and add a
bolt to hold the crank instead of a nut (make it an iny instead of an
outy!)
vi)cut the crank radially, cross drill the shaft, add a nut and bolt
and make it into a clamp fit
any thoughts, experiences or more ideas? personally im leaning towards
ii) or v) as being fairly sturdy solutions.
iA, the shaft and hub are sold as one for all unis, as they're usually
welded or sometimes pressed trogether. you could just get a new hub,
you'll have to check your bearing spacing but something like 'this'
(http://tinyurl.com/wdh0) will do the trick. You'll need to build the
wheel tho, and may well need new spokes if you can't get a hub with the
same flange diametre as your current one.
iB, the actual axle is pretty much the same, indeed many unis hubs use
stock bike axles, you need to weld the spoke flanges on. Again you'd
prob need new spokes, and learn how to build a wheel/pay for it to be
built.
ii, good idea if youve got enough clearance on the inside, those tapers
have to be quite accurate though, if the angle is much different from
that inside the crank the cranks will sit on a single point and always
work loose. You could do it on a mill if you've got one handy.
iii, I'm not sure how the glue will hold up, but worth a try if you
don't want to go overboard with it, ive heard of people glueing pedals
in using metalweld stuff, so if you use a proper high grade adhesive
with good surface prep (abrasion, alchol washing etc.) it mgiht well
do.
iv. probably better than the glue, but one that will limit the life of
your uni. if you ever wnat to change a bearing, crank length or badly
strip a pedal hole you're done for. (same applies to glueing I guess,
unless you use something that has a solvent specced for it)
v. more recent hubs are made like this, it seems by far the best idea
to me as long as you've got some way of holding the hub perfectly
vertical in a press drill without dismantling the wheel.
vi. is there enough material to accomodate a bolt hole through the
crank? most taper cranks are pretty skinny in this area. I don't know
how the clamping forces would work out, couldn't say either way
In short, either buy a new hub and learn how to build wheels, or go
from outy to inny. Hope that helps.
--
kington99
Dave
- what a thoroughly post-modern subversion of the cycling genre -
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