Why build your own wheel?



weisse-<< Since the only tool needed for on-road
spoke replacement is a wrench, carrying spares is a great idea. >><BR><BR>

Not exactly. You won't get a driveside spoke into the hub with the casette on.

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
 
John Forrest Tomlinson wrote in message
<[email protected]>...
>On Sat, 14 Aug 2004 08:10:51 +1000, sfcommuter
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>I do know how to true wheels; however, I did not check the tension of
>>the wheels when I got them (since I don't have a tension meter).

>
>You can get an approximation of what is good tension by just squeezing
>the spokes with you hands and comparing that to a well-built wheel.
>


PLace foot on hub nut or qr and stand on it, lean bicycle out 30deg or
whatever you think is best, and check for slack spokes at bottom of wheel.
If none come loose, the wheel is tight enough.

Trevor
 
Trevor Jeffrey writes:

>>> I do know how to true wheels; however, I did not check the tension
>>> of the wheels when I got them (since I don't have a tension
>>> meter).


>> You can get an approximation of what is good tension by just
>> squeezing the spokes with you hands and comparing that to a
>> well-built wheel.


> PLace foot on hub nut or qr and stand on it, lean bicycle out 30deg or
> whatever you think is best, and check for slack spokes at bottom of wheel.
> If none come loose, the wheel is tight enough.


Hey! That's the way I collapse a wheel when I want to. What are the
parameter for this test? How forceful and how heavy should the person
be? I think you are trying to lure people into destroying wheels.
THis will not reveal whether the spokes are properly tight.

The adequate way of testing for spoke twist on a purchased wheel is to
ride the bicycle while standing on one pedal while leaning outward to
that side. Unless you are a stunt rider, you will not exceed the
strength of a reasonable wheel although you may hear spokes unwinding.

This is not a way of determining whether the spokes are tight enough.

Jobst Brandt
[email protected]
 
Trevor Jeffrey writes:

>>> I do know how to true wheels; however, I did not check the tension
>>> of the wheels when I got them (since I don't have a tension
>>> meter).


>> You can get an approximation of what is good tension by just
>> squeezing the spokes with you hands and comparing that to a
>> well-built wheel.


> PLace foot on hub nut or qr and stand on it, lean bicycle out 30deg or
> whatever you think is best, and check for slack spokes at bottom of wheel.
> If none come loose, the wheel is tight enough.


Hey! That's the way I collapse a wheel when I want to. What are the
parameter for this test? How forceful and how heavy should the person
be? I think you are trying to lure people into destroying wheels.
THis will not reveal whether the spokes are properly tight.

The adequate way of testing for spoke twist on a purchased wheel is to
ride the bicycle while standing on one pedal while leaning outward to
that side. Unless you are a stunt rider, you will not exceed the
strength of a reasonable wheel although you may hear spokes unwinding.

This is not a way of determining whether the spokes are tight enough.

Jobst Brandt
[email protected]
 
"Trevor Jeffrey" <[email protected]> writes:

> John Forrest Tomlinson wrote in message
> <[email protected]>...
>>On Sat, 14 Aug 2004 08:10:51 +1000, sfcommuter
>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I do know how to true wheels; however, I did not check the tension
>>>of the wheels when I got them (since I don't have a tension meter).

>>
>>You can get an approximation of what is good tension by just
>>squeezing the spokes with you hands and comparing that to a
>>well-built wheel.
>>

>
> PLace foot on hub nut or qr and stand on it, lean bicycle out 30deg
> or whatever you think is best, and check for slack spokes at bottom
> of wheel. If none come loose, the wheel is tight enough.


That's just nonsensical.
 
Trevor Jeffrey wrote:
----8<---
> PLace foot on hub nut or qr and stand on it, lean bicycle out 30deg or
> whatever you think is best, and check for slack spokes at bottom of wheel.
> If none come loose, the wheel is tight enough.


I'd like to know how you keep a controllable and consistent amount of
lateral pressure on the hub, while reaching down to feel the tension of
the spokes at the same time.

As your previous mails this month indicate, you appear to be a good
contortionist.

Considering the amount of quasi-technospeak that has come oozing out of
your keyboard as of late, I'm surprised that you can't describe a spoke
tightness test that can be *reasonably* used by a reader of this NG.

Surely you can do better than this.

Or maybe not?

/Robert
 
Qui si parla Campagnolo said:
weisse-<< Since the only tool needed for on-road
spoke replacement is a wrench, carrying spares is a great idea. >><BR><BR>

Not exactly. You won't get a driveside spoke into the hub with the casette on.
...http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"


Read carefully. On some of my cassettes, I could swap drive side spokes but just in case, I have a fiber Fix spoke replacement in my toolbag.
 
[email protected] wrote in message
>Hey! That's the way I collapse a wheel when I want to. What are the
>parameter for this test? How forceful and how heavy should the person
>be? I think you are trying to lure people into destroying wheels.
>THis will not reveal whether the spokes are properly tight.
>
>The adequate way of testing for spoke twist on a purchased wheel is to
>ride the bicycle while standing on one pedal while leaning outward to
>that side. Unless you are a stunt rider, you will not exceed the
>strength of a reasonable wheel although you may hear spokes unwinding.
>
>This is not a way of determining whether the spokes are tight enough.


That's the way perhaps to collapse a Jobst built wheel. The rider should be
the person to perform the test, or someone of the same weight.

The test does reveal whether the build is adequate. It is only due to
lateral instability that you can destroy wheels at 30deg angle. The person
testing can easily see that the rim will displace as they lean the bike,
before the wheel collapses. If the rim can be seen to deviate with the bike
at 20deg there is a problem with wheel build for that rider. All weight is
transferred to the front wheel during braking, so it is nonsensical to test
with rider weight shared between two wheels, that's only half a test,
inadequate. I would like people to be lured away from using wheels that may
fail in service.
I don't really care about spoke twist, it is insignificant in my wheels.

Trevor
 
Robert wrote in message ...
>
>I'd like to know how you keep a controllable and consistent amount of
>lateral pressure on the hub, while reaching down to feel the tension of
>the spokes at the same time.
>
>As your previous mails this month indicate, you appear to be a good
>contortionist.
>
>Considering the amount of quasi-technospeak that has come oozing out of
>your keyboard as of late, I'm surprised that you can't describe a spoke
>tightness test that can be *reasonably* used by a reader of this NG.


Gravity provides the controlled force, the same that predominately affects
wheels in service. It is easy to limit the lean of the bike with a wall.
The tension of the spoke is non-existent in a slack spoke. This can be seen
with the eyes. Most readers of this newsgroup, I expect would have good
vision if they ride solo, so could easily ascertain whether a spoke is
loose or not. It is a simple matter if eyesight is poor to tap the bottom
spoke with a cane. the nipple will rattle against the rim if it is loose.

It is a simple reproducible test specific for the rider. If someone is
physically unable to perform this test, I doubt whether they would be both
safe and comfortable riding a bicycle.

Trevor
 
Tim McNamara wrote in message ...
>"Trevor Jeffrey" <[email protected]> writes:
>
>> John Forrest Tomlinson wrote in message
>> <[email protected]>...
>>>On Sat, 14 Aug 2004 08:10:51 +1000, sfcommuter
>>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>I do know how to true wheels; however, I did not check the tension
>>>>of the wheels when I got them (since I don't have a tension meter).
>>>
>>>You can get an approximation of what is good tension by just
>>>squeezing the spokes with you hands and comparing that to a
>>>well-built wheel.
>>>

>>
>> PLace foot on hub nut or qr and stand on it, lean bicycle out 30deg
>> or whatever you think is best, and check for slack spokes at bottom
>> of wheel. If none come loose, the wheel is tight enough.

>
>That's just nonsensical.


What is nonsensical is your absolute denial that my method shows any merit,
it clearly places both radial and lateral loads in magnitude and proportion
to show up wheel defects that would be critical to wheel stability in
service. Your comment is both unwelcome and unsupported, unlike my wheels,
which are adequately supported both laterally and radially in all service
conditions.

Trevor
 
Robert wrote in message ...
>Considering the amount of quasi-technospeak that has come oozing out of
>your keyboard as of late, I'm surprised that you can't describe a spoke
>tightness test that can be *reasonably* used by a reader of this NG.


I try to reduce technical language to the minimum, but it is not possible to
eliminate the language which defines the subject. If you have trouble with
it, use a standard English dictionary, if the difficult words are not there
use an Engineering dictionary and then another. I had considerable
difficulty upon reading the advanced books upon fatigue causation because my
non-familiarity of all the terminology and expressions concerned. I assure
you that what I have wrote is not meant to veil over anything and that all
terminology is used and understood within its field. Once a person has
studied detailed technical literature, it becomes difficult to use standard
regular 30,000 word English to explain accurately that which a few technical
words will do.

Of which "quasi-technospeak" do you have difficulty with?

Trevor
 
"sfcommuter" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> I do know how to true wheels; however, I did not check the tension of
> the wheels when I got them (since I don't have a tension meter). The
> wheels were perfectly true so I didn't have to adjust them - I just had
> no idea that it was under-tensionsed. I did an earlier post asking
> whether it's possible to determine tension just by plucking the spokes
> but I think the general consensus was that it's fine for relative
> tension but not a good way to judge absolute tension.


You can do this to compare the wheel you're tensioning to a known good one. It
doesn't have to be that precise. I generally go around factory wheels starting
with 1/2 turn per spoke, then 1/4 turn, until the tone sounds right, the
nipples (lube first) will start to get hard to turn around the same time. The
important thing is stress relief.
 
"Trevor Jeffrey" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Robert wrote in message ...
> >Considering the amount of quasi-technospeak that has come oozing out of
> >your keyboard as of late, I'm surprised that you can't describe a spoke
> >tightness test that can be *reasonably* used by a reader of this NG.

>
> I try to reduce technical language to the minimum, but it is not possible to
> eliminate the language which defines the subject.


Please, don't dumb down the descriptions. Use as precise technical
language as necessary.
 
papercut wrote in message
<[email protected]>...
>Please, don't dumb down the descriptions. Use as precise technical
>language as necessary.

Only the minimum required if I can help it.

Trevor
 
Trevor Jeffrey wrote:

> Tim McNamara wrote in message ...
> >"Trevor Jeffrey" <[email protected]> writes:
> >
> >> John Forrest Tomlinson wrote in message
> >> <[email protected]>...
> >>>On Sat, 14 Aug 2004 08:10:51 +1000, sfcommuter
> >>><[email protected]> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>I do know how to true wheels; however, I did not check the tension
> >>>>of the wheels when I got them (since I don't have a tension meter).
> >>>
> >>>You can get an approximation of what is good tension by just
> >>>squeezing the spokes with you hands and comparing that to a
> >>>well-built wheel.
> >>>
> >>
> >> PLace foot on hub nut or qr and stand on it, lean bicycle out 30deg
> >> or whatever you think is best, and check for slack spokes at bottom
> >> of wheel. If none come loose, the wheel is tight enough.

> >
> >That's just nonsensical.

>
> What is nonsensical is your absolute denial that my method shows any merit,
> it clearly places both radial and lateral loads in magnitude and proportion
> to show up wheel defects that would be critical to wheel stability in
> service. Your comment is both unwelcome and unsupported, unlike my wheels,
> which are adequately supported both laterally and radially in all service
> conditions.
>
> Trevor


If your wheels are adequately supported "in all service conditions",
then why do you feel the need for linseed oil to prevent spokes from
vibrating loose, as you put it? I have inspected and worked on many
wheels, and I have never seen a spoke vibrate loose, unless its tension
was low enough to fall to zero in use.
 
Ted wrote in message ...
>Trevor Jeffrey wrote:
>If your wheels are adequately supported "in all service conditions",
>then why do you feel the need for linseed oil to prevent spokes from
>vibrating loose, as you put it? I have inspected and worked on many
>wheels, and I have never seen a spoke vibrate loose, unless its tension
>was low enough to fall to zero in use.


That should of course read all normal service conditions. You have assumed
that the tension fell to 0. Vibration will undo any nut if the shock is
great enough. The bolt or spoke does not have to be loose for the nut or
nipple to move. The tension does not have to fall to zero for a nipple to
unwind.

Without some form of positive retention the nipples will unwind with the
build method I advocate.

Trevor
 
Trevor Jeffrey wrote:
> Robert wrote in message ...
>
>>Considering the amount of quasi-technospeak that has come oozing out of
>>your keyboard as of late, I'm surprised that you can't describe a spoke
>>tightness test that can be *reasonably* used by a reader of this NG.

>
>
> I try to reduce technical language to the minimum, but it is not possible to
> eliminate the language which defines the subject. If you have trouble with
> it, use a standard English dictionary, if the difficult words are not there
> use an Engineering dictionary and then another.


My undergraduate level applied maths gives me enough coverage for most
of your reasoning. It also tells me that you're basing most of what you
say on (perfect) theoretical models. But what say your fingers when you
build your wheels, compared with what your head tells you?

You do build wheels don't you?

The memory in *my* fingers from building wheelsets tells me that most of
the theory in this and related threads should stay as just that -
theory. Useful, as long as it's not abused.

Let's face it. Back in 1979 I built my first wheels with crud spokes and
Fiamme red (or was it Ambrosio Arc-en-Ciel). Way too low spoke tension
compared with what I know today, no lubricating of threads, no
stress-relieving done, riding on awful Australian roads (as they were
back then, at least). Broke 1 spoke in 5 years of training/competing.
Nowadays my rims are called Open Pro, I can afford really nice spokes, I
use grease, I now know how to get right tension and I stress relieve,
they're extremely round, true, and stay that way, but I don't think
they're that much better than what I made 25 years ago. The point here
is that the wheel components can be slapped together in lots of ways
(way outside the very fine tolerances that you're implying) and you'll
still get a wheel that's hard to break and will stay pretty straight.

I had considerable
> difficulty upon reading the advanced books upon fatigue causation because my
> non-familiarity of all the terminology and expressions concerned. I assure
> you that what I have wrote is not meant to veil over anything and that all
> terminology is used and understood within its field. Once a person has
> studied detailed technical literature, it becomes difficult to use standard
> regular 30,000 word English to explain accurately that which a few technical
> words will do.
>
> Of which "quasi-technospeak" do you have difficulty with?


Just about all of it. My view is that you are going to all ends of the
earth to try to save millimetres of territory. For what purpose? Do you
never concede to a good argument from an opponent, or do you believe
that everyone who's gone up against you in this thread is just plain wrong?

You're like a dog in the middle of a major pissing contest.

/Robert
 
[email protected] wrote:

> Trevor Jeffrey wrote:
>> Robert wrote in message ...
>>
>>> Considering the amount of quasi-technospeak that has come oozing out of
>>> your keyboard as of late, I'm surprised that you can't describe a spoke
>>> tightness test that can be *reasonably* used by a reader of this NG.

>> I try to reduce technical language to the minimum, but it is not
>> possible to eliminate the language which defines the subject. If you
>> have trouble with it, use a standard English dictionary, if the
>> difficult words are not there use an Engineering dictionary and then
>> another.

>
> My undergraduate level applied maths gives me enough coverage for most of
> your reasoning. It also tells me that you're basing most of what you say
> on (perfect) theoretical models.


Some basic high-school vector mathematics should be enough to show you that
his theoretical models far from perfect, at least with regard to his "hub
hanging from spokes" "proof" ...

--
Benjamin Lewis

"Love is a snowmobile racing across the tundra and then suddenly it flips
over, pinning you underneath. At night, the ice weasels come."
--Matt Groening
 
Benjamin Lewis wrote:

---8<---cutting

> Some basic high-school vector mathematics should be enough to show you that
> his theoretical models far from perfect, at least with regard to his "hub
> hanging from spokes" "proof" ...


Yeah, but he's got about 50 guys hanging of his back on that or similar
issues, at the moment. I just wanted to try another angle of attack ;-)
/Robert
 
Peter Cole wrote in message ...
>
>You can do this to compare the wheel you're tensioning to a known good one.

It
>doesn't have to be that precise. I generally go around factory wheels

starting
>with 1/2 turn per spoke, then 1/4 turn, until the tone sounds right, the
>nipples (lube first) will start to get hard to turn around the same time.

The
>important thing is stress relief.


Four pints of your best shouting bitter please landlord.

Trevor

Zymurgy - the last word of consequence