Well, [censored]

Miche said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

Sky said:

Bobo Bonobo® said:

On Nov 10, 12:47 pm, Sky <[email hidden]> wrote:
>
> One time years ago, I or my dad put a whole beef tenderloin roastin the
> pre-heated oven, and somehow either I or my dad accidentally turned the
> oven dial to "clean" (ruhroh!). The oven then locked itself withthe
> roast in the oven (big time ruhroh!). We tried to turn off the oven to
> disengage the 'clean' option. Because this happened so long ago,I
> forget how the roast turned out, but it was edible as I remember.

The only way that it could have turned out OK was if you'd pulled the
plug on the range (at least the way that my mother's used to work).
>
> Sky
>
--Bryan

Unfortunately, that wasn't an option because it was an in-the-wall
oven. Perhaps we could've gone to the breaker box and turned off the
circuit, but I don't think my dad had the circuits labeled at that time.

Easy, Sky, it's the biggest breaker apart from the mains. In the 230V
AC system we run in NZ, it's usually 32A or maybe even a bit bigger.

Miche

😉 Miche. I don't think we thought about it at the time, or perhaps my
dad did. It was a long time ago, so I forget the actual details. Dad
was/is a "double-E" (retired now) <g> so I left it up to him how to take
care of it (I think?!).

Sky

--
Ultra Ultimate Kitchen Rule - Use the Timer!
Ultimate Kitchen Rule -- Cook's Choice

On Sun, 11 Nov 2007 12:11:03 +1300, Miche <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

Sky said:

Bobo Bonobo® said:

On Nov 10, 12:47 pm, Sky <[email hidden]> wrote:
>
> One time years ago, I or my dad put a whole beef tenderloin roast in the
> pre-heated oven, and somehow either I or my dad accidentally turned the
> oven dial to "clean" (ruhroh!). The oven then locked itself with the
> roast in the oven (big time ruhroh!). We tried to turn off the oven to
> disengage the 'clean' option. Because this happened so long ago, I
> forget how the roast turned out, but it was edible as I remember.

The only way that it could have turned out OK was if you'd pulled the
plug on the range (at least the way that my mother's used to work).
>
> Sky
>
--Bryan

Unfortunately, that wasn't an option because it was an in-the-wall
oven. Perhaps we could've gone to the breaker box and turned off the
circuit, but I don't think my dad had the circuits labeled at that time.

Easy, Sky, it's the biggest breaker apart from the mains. In the 230V
AC system we run in NZ, it's usually 32A or maybe even a bit bigger.

Miche

Giving electrical advice to someone on the other side of the earth is
rather silly. We don't have 230v. That's just used for specs. And
we don't have any 32A breakers. Without knowing if there is a pool,
spa, sauna, welder, electric heat etc. you're giving enough knowledge
to cause trouble. Older electric ranges and ovens ranged between 30
and 60 amps. Dryers were between 40-60 amps. So guessing in an
unmarked panel is a crapshoot. I do remember you said you were
training to be an electrician. Please be careful giving advice out on
an installation you've not seen.

Lou

On Sun, 11 Nov 2007 12:11:03 +1300, Miche <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

Sky said:

Bobo Bonobo® said:

On Nov 10, 12:47 pm, Sky <[email hidden]> wrote:
>
> One time years ago, I or my dad put a whole beef tenderloin roast in the
> pre-heated oven, and somehow either I or my dad accidentally turned the
> oven dial to "clean" (ruhroh!). The oven then locked itself with the
> roast in the oven (big time ruhroh!). We tried to turn off the oven to
> disengage the 'clean' option. Because this happened so long ago, I
> forget how the roast turned out, but it was edible as I remember.

The only way that it could have turned out OK was if you'd pulled the
plug on the range (at least the way that my mother's used to work).
>
> Sky
>
--Bryan

Unfortunately, that wasn't an option because it was an in-the-wall
oven. Perhaps we could've gone to the breaker box and turned off the
circuit, but I don't think my dad had the circuits labeled at that time.

Easy, Sky, it's the biggest breaker apart from the mains. In the 230V
AC system we run in NZ, it's usually 32A or maybe even a bit bigger.

Miche

Giving electrical advice to someone on the other side of the earth is
rather silly. We don't have 230v. That's just used for specs. And
we don't have any 32A breakers. Without knowing if there is a pool,
spa, sauna, welder, electric heat etc. you're giving enough knowledge
to cause trouble. Older electric ranges and ovens ranged between 30
and 60 amps. Dryers were between 40-60 amps. So guessing in an
unmarked panel is a crapshoot. I do remember you said you were
training to be an electrician. Please be careful giving advice out on
an installation you've not seen.

Lou

Miche said:

Put a nice piece of pork shoulder in the oven to roast. After it had
been in there a bit, prepared some veges to go with it (potatoes,
kumara/sweet potatoes, parsnip, carrots, beet(root), (Pacific) yams,
garlic), went to put them in... and discovered the oven was on
grill/broil and the meat was barely warm.

I've changed the oven setting now. Dinner will still be good, just a
little later than we thought.

(There will also be green beans and apple sauce.)

Last summer we had a friend visiting from Texas and I was planning on doing
a chicken on the BBQ rotisserie. this was one of my favourite recipes for
the rotisserie. Puree and onion and some garlic, add salt, pepper and cumin
and slather it on the chicken about an hour before cooking, and then baste
it with melted butter. It takes about an hour and a half. About 10 minutes
into the cooking time I ran out of propane. The worst part was that my
spare tank was empty too. The only thing worse than running out of propane
is to have to fill two tanks. I had sworn that would never happen to me
again... and it did
:-(

Never again. Now when I run out I hook up the spare and put the empty tank
in the car so I have to fill it.

Miche said:

Put a nice piece of pork shoulder in the oven to roast. After it had
been in there a bit, prepared some veges to go with it (potatoes,
kumara/sweet potatoes, parsnip, carrots, beet(root), (Pacific) yams,
garlic), went to put them in... and discovered the oven was on
grill/broil and the meat was barely warm.

I've changed the oven setting now. Dinner will still be good, just a
little later than we thought.

(There will also be green beans and apple sauce.)

Last summer we had a friend visiting from Texas and I was planning on doing
a chicken on the BBQ rotisserie. this was one of my favourite recipes for
the rotisserie. Puree and onion and some garlic, add salt, pepper and cumin
and slather it on the chicken about an hour before cooking, and then baste
it with melted butter. It takes about an hour and a half. About 10 minutes
into the cooking time I ran out of propane. The worst part was that my
spare tank was empty too. The only thing worse than running out of propane
is to have to fill two tanks. I had sworn that would never happen to me
again... and it did
:-(

Never again. Now when I run out I hook up the spare and put the empty tank
in the car so I have to fill it.

Dave Smith said:

Miche said:

Put a nice piece of pork shoulder in the oven to roast. After it had
been in there a bit, prepared some veges to go with it (potatoes,
kumara/sweet potatoes, parsnip, carrots, beet(root), (Pacific) yams,
garlic), went to put them in... and discovered the oven was on
grill/broil and the meat was barely warm.

I've changed the oven setting now. Dinner will still be good, just a
little later than we thought.

(There will also be green beans and apple sauce.)

Last summer we had a friend visiting from Texas and I was planning on doing
a chicken on the BBQ rotisserie. this was one of my favourite recipes for
the rotisserie. Puree and onion and some garlic, add salt, pepper and cumin
and slather it on the chicken about an hour before cooking, and then baste
it with melted butter. It takes about an hour and a half. About 10 minutes
into the cooking time I ran out of propane. The worst part was that my
spare tank was empty too. The only thing worse than running out of propane
is to have to fill two tanks. I had sworn that would never happen to me
again... and it did
:-(

Never again. Now when I run out I hook up the spare and put the empty tank
in the car so I have to fill it.

Sorry to do the grill on a wood deck thing again but:

From Here.

http://www.owensoundfireems.com/prevention/bbqsafety.htm

* Store propane tanks standing upright in a well-ventilated area
outside or in a well-ventilated shed. A leaking tank creates a
potential fire hazard. Never store a propane tank in the house. An
explosion can be easily set off by a spark of static electricity, the
flip of a light switch or a pilot light.
* NEVER smoke near a propane tank.
* Make sure the tank is stored out of the reach of children.
* Do not refill a tank that is leaking, is corroded or has any
other signs of damage. Ask your propane distributor to inspect the
tank for signs of deterioration before it is refilled.
* Replace propane tanks every 10 years.
* When transporting a propane tank, make sure it remains in an
upright position. Milk cartons work well for this as they are just the
right size to hug the tank securely. The best place for the tank to
travel is in the trunk of the car; secure the trunk lid so it remains
slightly open for ventilation. The tank can also be placed on the rear
floor of the passenger side of the car; leave the rear windows open
for ventilation.
* When transporting a tank, use a plastic plug in the gas outlet
for greater safety.
* Have the tank filled only by qualified personnel.

Dave Smith said:

Miche said:

Put a nice piece of pork shoulder in the oven to roast. After it had
been in there a bit, prepared some veges to go with it (potatoes,
kumara/sweet potatoes, parsnip, carrots, beet(root), (Pacific) yams,
garlic), went to put them in... and discovered the oven was on
grill/broil and the meat was barely warm.

I've changed the oven setting now. Dinner will still be good, just a
little later than we thought.

(There will also be green beans and apple sauce.)

Last summer we had a friend visiting from Texas and I was planning on doing
a chicken on the BBQ rotisserie. this was one of my favourite recipes for
the rotisserie. Puree and onion and some garlic, add salt, pepper and cumin
and slather it on the chicken about an hour before cooking, and then baste
it with melted butter. It takes about an hour and a half. About 10 minutes
into the cooking time I ran out of propane. The worst part was that my
spare tank was empty too. The only thing worse than running out of propane
is to have to fill two tanks. I had sworn that would never happen to me
again... and it did
:-(

Never again. Now when I run out I hook up the spare and put the empty tank
in the car so I have to fill it.

Sorry to do the grill on a wood deck thing again but:

From Here.

http://www.owensoundfireems.com/prevention/bbqsafety.htm

* Store propane tanks standing upright in a well-ventilated area
outside or in a well-ventilated shed. A leaking tank creates a
potential fire hazard. Never store a propane tank in the house. An
explosion can be easily set off by a spark of static electricity, the
flip of a light switch or a pilot light.
* NEVER smoke near a propane tank.
* Make sure the tank is stored out of the reach of children.
* Do not refill a tank that is leaking, is corroded or has any
other signs of damage. Ask your propane distributor to inspect the
tank for signs of deterioration before it is refilled.
* Replace propane tanks every 10 years.
* When transporting a propane tank, make sure it remains in an
upright position. Milk cartons work well for this as they are just the
right size to hug the tank securely. The best place for the tank to
travel is in the trunk of the car; secure the trunk lid so it remains
slightly open for ventilation. The tank can also be placed on the rear
floor of the passenger side of the car; leave the rear windows open
for ventilation.
* When transporting a tank, use a plastic plug in the gas outlet
for greater safety.
* Have the tank filled only by qualified personnel.

In article <[email hidden]>,

Lou Decruss said:

On Sun, 11 Nov 2007 12:11:03 +1300, Miche <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

Sky said:

Bobo Bonobo® wrote:
>
> On Nov 10, 12:47 pm, Sky <[email hidden]> wrote:
> >
> > One time years ago, I or my dad put a whole beef tenderloin roast in
> > the
> > pre-heated oven, and somehow either I or my dad accidentally turned
> > the
> > oven dial to "clean" (ruhroh!). The oven then locked itself with the
> > roast in the oven (big time ruhroh!). We tried to turn off the oven
> > to
> > disengage the 'clean' option. Because this happened so long ago, I
> > forget how the roast turned out, but it was edible as I remember.
>
> The only way that it could have turned out OK was if you'd pulled the
> plug on the range (at least the way that my mother's used to work).
> >
> > Sky
> >
> --Bryan

Unfortunately, that wasn't an option because it was an in-the-wall
oven. Perhaps we could've gone to the breaker box and turned off the
circuit, but I don't think my dad had the circuits labeled at that time.

Easy, Sky, it's the biggest breaker apart from the mains. In the 230V
AC system we run in NZ, it's usually 32A or maybe even a bit bigger.

Miche

Giving electrical advice to someone on the other side of the earth is
rather silly. We don't have 230v.

I did note the "230v AC system _we run in NZ_".

Quoted message said:

That's just used for specs. And
we don't have any 32A breakers. Without knowing if there is a pool,
spa, sauna, welder, electric heat etc. you're giving enough knowledge
to cause trouble. Older electric ranges and ovens ranged between 30
and 60 amps. Dryers were between 40-60 amps. So guessing in an
unmarked panel is a crapshoot. I do remember you said you were
training to be an electrician. Please be careful giving advice out on
an installation you've not seen.

I wasn't being entirely serious. I shoulda tagged it "sarcasm", I guess.

Miche

--
Electricians do it in three phases

In article <[email hidden]>,

Lou Decruss said:

On Sun, 11 Nov 2007 12:11:03 +1300, Miche <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

Sky said:

Bobo Bonobo® wrote:
>
> On Nov 10, 12:47 pm, Sky <[email hidden]> wrote:
> >
> > One time years ago, I or my dad put a whole beef tenderloin roast in
> > the
> > pre-heated oven, and somehow either I or my dad accidentally turned
> > the
> > oven dial to "clean" (ruhroh!). The oven then locked itself with the
> > roast in the oven (big time ruhroh!). We tried to turn off the oven
> > to
> > disengage the 'clean' option. Because this happened so long ago, I
> > forget how the roast turned out, but it was edible as I remember.
>
> The only way that it could have turned out OK was if you'd pulled the
> plug on the range (at least the way that my mother's used to work).
> >
> > Sky
> >
> --Bryan

Unfortunately, that wasn't an option because it was an in-the-wall
oven. Perhaps we could've gone to the breaker box and turned off the
circuit, but I don't think my dad had the circuits labeled at that time.

Easy, Sky, it's the biggest breaker apart from the mains. In the 230V
AC system we run in NZ, it's usually 32A or maybe even a bit bigger.

Miche

Giving electrical advice to someone on the other side of the earth is
rather silly. We don't have 230v.

I did note the "230v AC system _we run in NZ_".

Quoted message said:

That's just used for specs. And
we don't have any 32A breakers. Without knowing if there is a pool,
spa, sauna, welder, electric heat etc. you're giving enough knowledge
to cause trouble. Older electric ranges and ovens ranged between 30
and 60 amps. Dryers were between 40-60 amps. So guessing in an
unmarked panel is a crapshoot. I do remember you said you were
training to be an electrician. Please be careful giving advice out on
an installation you've not seen.

I wasn't being entirely serious. I shoulda tagged it "sarcasm", I guess.

Miche

--
Electricians do it in three phases

In article <[email hidden]>,

Sky said:

Miche said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

Sky said:

Bobo Bonobo® wrote:
>
> On Nov 10, 12:47 pm, Sky <[email hidden]> wrote:
> >
> > One time years ago, I or my dad put a whole beef tenderloin roast in
> > the
> > pre-heated oven, and somehow either I or my dad accidentally turned
> > the
> > oven dial to "clean" (ruhroh!). The oven then locked itself with the
> > roast in the oven (big time ruhroh!). We tried to turn off the oven
> > to
> > disengage the 'clean' option. Because this happened so long ago, I
> > forget how the roast turned out, but it was edible as I remember.
>
> The only way that it could have turned out OK was if you'd pulled the
> plug on the range (at least the way that my mother's used to work).
> >
> > Sky
> >
> --Bryan

Unfortunately, that wasn't an option because it was an in-the-wall
oven. Perhaps we could've gone to the breaker box and turned off the
circuit, but I don't think my dad had the circuits labeled at that time.

Easy, Sky, it's the biggest breaker apart from the mains. In the 230V
AC system we run in NZ, it's usually 32A or maybe even a bit bigger.

Miche

😉 Miche. I don't think we thought about it at the time, or perhaps my
dad did. It was a long time ago, so I forget the actual details. Dad
was/is a "double-E" (retired now) <g> so I left it up to him how to take
care of it (I think?!).

Always the best move, if you're not sure.

And I have no idea what amperage you use for things over there with your
silly little "throws like a girl" 110V systems. 😉

Miche

--
Electricians do it in three phases

In article <[email hidden]>,

Sky said:

Miche said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

Sky said:

Bobo Bonobo® wrote:
>
> On Nov 10, 12:47 pm, Sky <[email hidden]> wrote:
> >
> > One time years ago, I or my dad put a whole beef tenderloin roast in
> > the
> > pre-heated oven, and somehow either I or my dad accidentally turned
> > the
> > oven dial to "clean" (ruhroh!). The oven then locked itself with the
> > roast in the oven (big time ruhroh!). We tried to turn off the oven
> > to
> > disengage the 'clean' option. Because this happened so long ago, I
> > forget how the roast turned out, but it was edible as I remember.
>
> The only way that it could have turned out OK was if you'd pulled the
> plug on the range (at least the way that my mother's used to work).
> >
> > Sky
> >
> --Bryan

Unfortunately, that wasn't an option because it was an in-the-wall
oven. Perhaps we could've gone to the breaker box and turned off the
circuit, but I don't think my dad had the circuits labeled at that time.

Easy, Sky, it's the biggest breaker apart from the mains. In the 230V
AC system we run in NZ, it's usually 32A or maybe even a bit bigger.

Miche

😉 Miche. I don't think we thought about it at the time, or perhaps my
dad did. It was a long time ago, so I forget the actual details. Dad
was/is a "double-E" (retired now) <g> so I left it up to him how to take
care of it (I think?!).

Always the best move, if you're not sure.

And I have no idea what amperage you use for things over there with your
silly little "throws like a girl" 110V systems. 😉

Miche

--
Electricians do it in three phases

In article <[email hidden]>,

Miche said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

Lou Decruss said:

On Sun, 11 Nov 2007 12:11:03 +1300, Miche <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>,
Sky <[email hidden]> wrote:

> Bobo Bonobo® wrote:
> >
> > On Nov 10, 12:47 pm, Sky <[email hidden]> wrote:
> > >
> > > One time years ago, I or my dad put a whole beef tenderloin roast in
> > > the
> > > pre-heated oven, and somehow either I or my dad accidentally turned
> > > the
> > > oven dial to "clean" (ruhroh!). The oven then locked itself with the
> > > roast in the oven (big time ruhroh!). We tried to turn off the oven
> > > to
> > > disengage the 'clean' option. Because this happened so long ago, I
> > > forget how the roast turned out, but it was edible as I remember.
> >
> > The only way that it could have turned out OK was if you'd pulled the
> > plug on the range (at least the way that my mother's used to work).
> > >
> > > Sky
> > >
> > --Bryan
>
> Unfortunately, that wasn't an option because it was an in-the-wall
> oven. Perhaps we could've gone to the breaker box and turned off the
> circuit, but I don't think my dad had the circuits labeled at that time.

Easy, Sky, it's the biggest breaker apart from the mains. In the 230V
AC system we run in NZ, it's usually 32A or maybe even a bit bigger.

Miche

Giving electrical advice to someone on the other side of the earth is
rather silly. We don't have 230v.

I did note the "230v AC system _we run in NZ_".

Quoted message said:

That's just used for specs. And
we don't have any 32A breakers. Without knowing if there is a pool,
spa, sauna, welder, electric heat etc. you're giving enough knowledge
to cause trouble. Older electric ranges and ovens ranged between 30
and 60 amps. Dryers were between 40-60 amps. So guessing in an
unmarked panel is a crapshoot. I do remember you said you were
training to be an electrician. Please be careful giving advice out on
an installation you've not seen.

I wasn't being entirely serious. I shoulda tagged it "sarcasm", I guess.

And also? The system Sky was describing isn't one she has access to
now, but one she described as being around when she was a child.

Miche

--
Electricians do it in three phases

In article <[email hidden]>,

Miche said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

Lou Decruss said:

On Sun, 11 Nov 2007 12:11:03 +1300, Miche <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>,
Sky <[email hidden]> wrote:

> Bobo Bonobo® wrote:
> >
> > On Nov 10, 12:47 pm, Sky <[email hidden]> wrote:
> > >
> > > One time years ago, I or my dad put a whole beef tenderloin roast in
> > > the
> > > pre-heated oven, and somehow either I or my dad accidentally turned
> > > the
> > > oven dial to "clean" (ruhroh!). The oven then locked itself with the
> > > roast in the oven (big time ruhroh!). We tried to turn off the oven
> > > to
> > > disengage the 'clean' option. Because this happened so long ago, I
> > > forget how the roast turned out, but it was edible as I remember.
> >
> > The only way that it could have turned out OK was if you'd pulled the
> > plug on the range (at least the way that my mother's used to work).
> > >
> > > Sky
> > >
> > --Bryan
>
> Unfortunately, that wasn't an option because it was an in-the-wall
> oven. Perhaps we could've gone to the breaker box and turned off the
> circuit, but I don't think my dad had the circuits labeled at that time.

Easy, Sky, it's the biggest breaker apart from the mains. In the 230V
AC system we run in NZ, it's usually 32A or maybe even a bit bigger.

Miche

Giving electrical advice to someone on the other side of the earth is
rather silly. We don't have 230v.

I did note the "230v AC system _we run in NZ_".

Quoted message said:

That's just used for specs. And
we don't have any 32A breakers. Without knowing if there is a pool,
spa, sauna, welder, electric heat etc. you're giving enough knowledge
to cause trouble. Older electric ranges and ovens ranged between 30
and 60 amps. Dryers were between 40-60 amps. So guessing in an
unmarked panel is a crapshoot. I do remember you said you were
training to be an electrician. Please be careful giving advice out on
an installation you've not seen.

I wasn't being entirely serious. I shoulda tagged it "sarcasm", I guess.

And also? The system Sky was describing isn't one she has access to
now, but one she described as being around when she was a child.

Miche

--
Electricians do it in three phases

Oh pshaw, on Sat 10 Nov 2007 10:26:24p, Miche meant to say...

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

Sky said:

Miche said:

In article <[email hidden]>,
Sky <[email hidden]> wrote:

> Bobo Bonobo® wrote:
> >
> > On Nov 10, 12:47 pm, Sky <[email hidden]> wrote:
> > >
> > > One time years ago, I or my dad put a whole beef tenderloin
> > > roast in the pre-heated oven, and somehow either I or my dad
> > > accidentally turned the oven dial to "clean" (ruhroh!). The
> > > oven then locked itself with the roast in the oven (big time
> > > ruhroh!). We tried to turn off the oven to disengage the
> > > 'clean' option. Because this happened so long ago, I forget
> > > how the roast turned out, but it was edible as I remember.
> >
> > The only way that it could have turned out OK was if you'd pulled
> > the plug on the range (at least the way that my mother's used to
> > work).
> > >
> > > Sky
> > >
> > --Bryan
>
> Unfortunately, that wasn't an option because it was an in-the-wall
> oven. Perhaps we could've gone to the breaker box and turned off
> the circuit, but I don't think my dad had the circuits labeled at
> that time.

Easy, Sky, it's the biggest breaker apart from the mains. In the
230V AC system we run in NZ, it's usually 32A or maybe even a bit
bigger.

Miche

😉 Miche. I don't think we thought about it at the time, or perhaps my
dad did. It was a long time ago, so I forget the actual details. Dad
was/is a "double-E" (retired now) <g> so I left it up to him how to
take care of it (I think?!).

Always the best move, if you're not sure.

And I have no idea what amperage you use for things over there with your
silly little "throws like a girl" 110V systems. 😉

Miche

Miche, the following is typical for the US...

Major appliances like electric ranges, built-in cooktops and ovens,
electric clothes dryers, central air conditioners, electric furnaces,
electrically heated spas, etc., all use 220-230 volt current. Most of
these items are hard-wired, although some have a cord and plug, like the
clothes dryers and electric ranges. Amperage varies considerably,
depending on the appliance.

Most countertop appliances, TVs, audio equipment, lighting, computer
equipment, hair dryers, and other small appliances use 110-120 volt
current. General purpose wall outlets are usually rated at 15 amps. Wall
outlets in kitchens, workshops, etc., are usually rated at 20 amps.

--
Wayne Boatwright

(to e-mail me direct, replace cox dot net with gmail dot com)
______________________________________________________________

OK, I'm weird ! But I'm saving up to be eccentric.

Oh pshaw, on Sat 10 Nov 2007 10:26:24p, Miche meant to say...

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

Sky said:

Miche said:

In article <[email hidden]>,
Sky <[email hidden]> wrote:

> Bobo Bonobo® wrote:
> >
> > On Nov 10, 12:47 pm, Sky <[email hidden]> wrote:
> > >
> > > One time years ago, I or my dad put a whole beef tenderloin
> > > roast in the pre-heated oven, and somehow either I or my dad
> > > accidentally turned the oven dial to "clean" (ruhroh!). The
> > > oven then locked itself with the roast in the oven (big time
> > > ruhroh!). We tried to turn off the oven to disengage the
> > > 'clean' option. Because this happened so long ago, I forget
> > > how the roast turned out, but it was edible as I remember.
> >
> > The only way that it could have turned out OK was if you'd pulled
> > the plug on the range (at least the way that my mother's used to
> > work).
> > >
> > > Sky
> > >
> > --Bryan
>
> Unfortunately, that wasn't an option because it was an in-the-wall
> oven. Perhaps we could've gone to the breaker box and turned off
> the circuit, but I don't think my dad had the circuits labeled at
> that time.

Easy, Sky, it's the biggest breaker apart from the mains. In the
230V AC system we run in NZ, it's usually 32A or maybe even a bit
bigger.

Miche

😉 Miche. I don't think we thought about it at the time, or perhaps my
dad did. It was a long time ago, so I forget the actual details. Dad
was/is a "double-E" (retired now) <g> so I left it up to him how to
take care of it (I think?!).

Always the best move, if you're not sure.

And I have no idea what amperage you use for things over there with your
silly little "throws like a girl" 110V systems. 😉

Miche

Miche, the following is typical for the US...

Major appliances like electric ranges, built-in cooktops and ovens,
electric clothes dryers, central air conditioners, electric furnaces,
electrically heated spas, etc., all use 220-230 volt current. Most of
these items are hard-wired, although some have a cord and plug, like the
clothes dryers and electric ranges. Amperage varies considerably,
depending on the appliance.

Most countertop appliances, TVs, audio equipment, lighting, computer
equipment, hair dryers, and other small appliances use 110-120 volt
current. General purpose wall outlets are usually rated at 15 amps. Wall
outlets in kitchens, workshops, etc., are usually rated at 20 amps.

--
Wayne Boatwright

(to e-mail me direct, replace cox dot net with gmail dot com)
______________________________________________________________

OK, I'm weird ! But I'm saving up to be eccentric.

In article <[email hidden]>,

Wayne Boatwright said:

Oh pshaw, on Sat 10 Nov 2007 10:26:24p, Miche meant to say...

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

Sky said:

Miche wrote:
>
> In article <[email hidden]>,
> Sky <[email hidden]> wrote:
>
> > Bobo Bonobo® wrote:
> > >
> > > On Nov 10, 12:47 pm, Sky <[email hidden]> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > One time years ago, I or my dad put a whole beef tenderloin
> > > > roast in the pre-heated oven, and somehow either I or my dad
> > > > accidentally turned the oven dial to "clean" (ruhroh!). The
> > > > oven then locked itself with the roast in the oven (big time
> > > > ruhroh!). We tried to turn off the oven to disengage the
> > > > 'clean' option. Because this happened so long ago, I forget
> > > > how the roast turned out, but it was edible as I remember.
> > >
> > > The only way that it could have turned out OK was if you'd pulled
> > > the plug on the range (at least the way that my mother's used to
> > > work).
> > > >
> > > > Sky
> > > >
> > > --Bryan
> >
> > Unfortunately, that wasn't an option because it was an in-the-wall
> > oven. Perhaps we could've gone to the breaker box and turned off
> > the circuit, but I don't think my dad had the circuits labeled at
> > that time.
>
> Easy, Sky, it's the biggest breaker apart from the mains. In the
> 230V AC system we run in NZ, it's usually 32A or maybe even a bit
> bigger.
>
> Miche

😉 Miche. I don't think we thought about it at the time, or perhaps my
dad did. It was a long time ago, so I forget the actual details. Dad
was/is a "double-E" (retired now) <g> so I left it up to him how to
take care of it (I think?!).

Always the best move, if you're not sure.

And I have no idea what amperage you use for things over there with your
silly little "throws like a girl" 110V systems. 😉

Miche, the following is typical for the US...

Major appliances like electric ranges, built-in cooktops and ovens,
electric clothes dryers, central air conditioners, electric furnaces,
electrically heated spas, etc., all use 220-230 volt current. Most of
these items are hard-wired, although some have a cord and plug, like the
clothes dryers and electric ranges. Amperage varies considerably,
depending on the appliance.

Most countertop appliances, TVs, audio equipment, lighting, computer
equipment, hair dryers, and other small appliances use 110-120 volt
current. General purpose wall outlets are usually rated at 15 amps. Wall
outlets in kitchens, workshops, etc., are usually rated at 20 amps.

So you actually have a hybrid system, then? Interesting! I was under
the (mistaken) impression that it was all 110VAC. Thanks for the update.

Oh, and for those listening at home, I do not advocate doing anything
with an untested installation, especially if it's unlabelled. If in
doubt, call a registered electrician.

Miche

--
Electricians do it in three phases

In article <[email hidden]>,

Wayne Boatwright said:

Oh pshaw, on Sat 10 Nov 2007 10:26:24p, Miche meant to say...

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

Sky said:

Miche wrote:
>
> In article <[email hidden]>,
> Sky <[email hidden]> wrote:
>
> > Bobo Bonobo® wrote:
> > >
> > > On Nov 10, 12:47 pm, Sky <[email hidden]> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > One time years ago, I or my dad put a whole beef tenderloin
> > > > roast in the pre-heated oven, and somehow either I or my dad
> > > > accidentally turned the oven dial to "clean" (ruhroh!). The
> > > > oven then locked itself with the roast in the oven (big time
> > > > ruhroh!). We tried to turn off the oven to disengage the
> > > > 'clean' option. Because this happened so long ago, I forget
> > > > how the roast turned out, but it was edible as I remember.
> > >
> > > The only way that it could have turned out OK was if you'd pulled
> > > the plug on the range (at least the way that my mother's used to
> > > work).
> > > >
> > > > Sky
> > > >
> > > --Bryan
> >
> > Unfortunately, that wasn't an option because it was an in-the-wall
> > oven. Perhaps we could've gone to the breaker box and turned off
> > the circuit, but I don't think my dad had the circuits labeled at
> > that time.
>
> Easy, Sky, it's the biggest breaker apart from the mains. In the
> 230V AC system we run in NZ, it's usually 32A or maybe even a bit
> bigger.
>
> Miche

😉 Miche. I don't think we thought about it at the time, or perhaps my
dad did. It was a long time ago, so I forget the actual details. Dad
was/is a "double-E" (retired now) <g> so I left it up to him how to
take care of it (I think?!).

Always the best move, if you're not sure.

And I have no idea what amperage you use for things over there with your
silly little "throws like a girl" 110V systems. 😉

Miche, the following is typical for the US...

Major appliances like electric ranges, built-in cooktops and ovens,
electric clothes dryers, central air conditioners, electric furnaces,
electrically heated spas, etc., all use 220-230 volt current. Most of
these items are hard-wired, although some have a cord and plug, like the
clothes dryers and electric ranges. Amperage varies considerably,
depending on the appliance.

Most countertop appliances, TVs, audio equipment, lighting, computer
equipment, hair dryers, and other small appliances use 110-120 volt
current. General purpose wall outlets are usually rated at 15 amps. Wall
outlets in kitchens, workshops, etc., are usually rated at 20 amps.

So you actually have a hybrid system, then? Interesting! I was under
the (mistaken) impression that it was all 110VAC. Thanks for the update.

Oh, and for those listening at home, I do not advocate doing anything
with an untested installation, especially if it's unlabelled. If in
doubt, call a registered electrician.

Miche

--
Electricians do it in three phases

Oh pshaw, on Sun 11 Nov 2007 12:24:22a, Miche meant to say...

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

Wayne Boatwright said:

Oh pshaw, on Sat 10 Nov 2007 10:26:24p, Miche meant to say...

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>,
Sky <[email hidden]> wrote:

> Miche wrote:
> >
> > In article <[email hidden]>,
> > Sky <[email hidden]> wrote:
> >
> > > Bobo Bonobo® wrote:
> > > >
> > > > On Nov 10, 12:47 pm, Sky <[email hidden]> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > One time years ago, I or my dad put a whole beef tenderloin
> > > > > roast in the pre-heated oven, and somehow either I or my dad
> > > > > accidentally turned the oven dial to "clean" (ruhroh!).
> > > > > The oven then locked itself with the roast in the oven (big
> > > > > time ruhroh!). We tried to turn off the oven to disengage
> > > > > the 'clean' option. Because this happened so long ago, I
> > > > > forget how the roast turned out, but it was edible as I
> > > > > remember.
> > > >
> > > > The only way that it could have turned out OK was if you'd
> > > > pulled the plug on the range (at least the way that my
> > > > mother's used to work).
> > > > >
> > > > > Sky
> > > > >
> > > > --Bryan
> > >
> > > Unfortunately, that wasn't an option because it was an
> > > in-the-wall oven. Perhaps we could've gone to the breaker box
> > > and turned off the circuit, but I don't think my dad had the
> > > circuits labeled at that time.
> >
> > Easy, Sky, it's the biggest breaker apart from the mains. In the
> > 230V AC system we run in NZ, it's usually 32A or maybe even a bit
> > bigger.
> >
> > Miche
>
> 😉 Miche. I don't think we thought about it at the time, or perhaps
> my dad did. It was a long time ago, so I forget the actual details.
> Dad was/is a "double-E" (retired now) <g> so I left it up to him
> how to take care of it (I think?!).

Always the best move, if you're not sure.

And I have no idea what amperage you use for things over there with
your silly little "throws like a girl" 110V systems. 😉

Miche, the following is typical for the US...

Major appliances like electric ranges, built-in cooktops and ovens,
electric clothes dryers, central air conditioners, electric furnaces,
electrically heated spas, etc., all use 220-230 volt current. Most of
these items are hard-wired, although some have a cord and plug, like
the clothes dryers and electric ranges. Amperage varies considerably,
depending on the appliance.

Most countertop appliances, TVs, audio equipment, lighting, computer
equipment, hair dryers, and other small appliances use 110-120 volt
current. General purpose wall outlets are usually rated at 15 amps.
Wall outlets in kitchens, workshops, etc., are usually rated at 20
amps.

So you actually have a hybrid system, then? Interesting! I was under
the (mistaken) impression that it was all 110VAC. Thanks for the
update.

Actually, Miche, there are other voltages used in the US as well; e.g.,
208, 277, and 480, but these are used mostly in commercial applications.
There are other variables as well, such as cycles (50, 60), and phases
(single phase, 3-phase, etc.).

Quoted message said:

Oh, and for those listening at home, I do not advocate doing anything
with an untested installation, especially if it's unlabelled. If in
doubt, call a registered electrician.

Miche

--
Wayne Boatwright

(to e-mail me direct, replace cox dot net with gmail dot com)
______________________________________________________________

OK, I'm weird ! But I'm saving up to be eccentric.

Oh pshaw, on Sun 11 Nov 2007 12:24:22a, Miche meant to say...

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

Wayne Boatwright said:

Oh pshaw, on Sat 10 Nov 2007 10:26:24p, Miche meant to say...

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>,
Sky <[email hidden]> wrote:

> Miche wrote:
> >
> > In article <[email hidden]>,
> > Sky <[email hidden]> wrote:
> >
> > > Bobo Bonobo® wrote:
> > > >
> > > > On Nov 10, 12:47 pm, Sky <[email hidden]> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > One time years ago, I or my dad put a whole beef tenderloin
> > > > > roast in the pre-heated oven, and somehow either I or my dad
> > > > > accidentally turned the oven dial to "clean" (ruhroh!).
> > > > > The oven then locked itself with the roast in the oven (big
> > > > > time ruhroh!). We tried to turn off the oven to disengage
> > > > > the 'clean' option. Because this happened so long ago, I
> > > > > forget how the roast turned out, but it was edible as I
> > > > > remember.
> > > >
> > > > The only way that it could have turned out OK was if you'd
> > > > pulled the plug on the range (at least the way that my
> > > > mother's used to work).
> > > > >
> > > > > Sky
> > > > >
> > > > --Bryan
> > >
> > > Unfortunately, that wasn't an option because it was an
> > > in-the-wall oven. Perhaps we could've gone to the breaker box
> > > and turned off the circuit, but I don't think my dad had the
> > > circuits labeled at that time.
> >
> > Easy, Sky, it's the biggest breaker apart from the mains. In the
> > 230V AC system we run in NZ, it's usually 32A or maybe even a bit
> > bigger.
> >
> > Miche
>
> 😉 Miche. I don't think we thought about it at the time, or perhaps
> my dad did. It was a long time ago, so I forget the actual details.
> Dad was/is a "double-E" (retired now) <g> so I left it up to him
> how to take care of it (I think?!).

Always the best move, if you're not sure.

And I have no idea what amperage you use for things over there with
your silly little "throws like a girl" 110V systems. 😉

Miche, the following is typical for the US...

Major appliances like electric ranges, built-in cooktops and ovens,
electric clothes dryers, central air conditioners, electric furnaces,
electrically heated spas, etc., all use 220-230 volt current. Most of
these items are hard-wired, although some have a cord and plug, like
the clothes dryers and electric ranges. Amperage varies considerably,
depending on the appliance.

Most countertop appliances, TVs, audio equipment, lighting, computer
equipment, hair dryers, and other small appliances use 110-120 volt
current. General purpose wall outlets are usually rated at 15 amps.
Wall outlets in kitchens, workshops, etc., are usually rated at 20
amps.

So you actually have a hybrid system, then? Interesting! I was under
the (mistaken) impression that it was all 110VAC. Thanks for the
update.

Actually, Miche, there are other voltages used in the US as well; e.g.,
208, 277, and 480, but these are used mostly in commercial applications.
There are other variables as well, such as cycles (50, 60), and phases
(single phase, 3-phase, etc.).

Quoted message said:

Oh, and for those listening at home, I do not advocate doing anything
with an untested installation, especially if it's unlabelled. If in
doubt, call a registered electrician.

Miche

--
Wayne Boatwright

(to e-mail me direct, replace cox dot net with gmail dot com)
______________________________________________________________

OK, I'm weird ! But I'm saving up to be eccentric.

On Sun, 11 Nov 2007 18:27:40 +1300, Miche <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Giving electrical advice to someone on the other side of the earth is
rather silly. We don't have 230v.

I did note the "230v AC system _we run in NZ_".

Quoted message said:

That's just used for specs. And
we don't have any 32A breakers. Without knowing if there is a pool,
spa, sauna, welder, electric heat etc. you're giving enough knowledge
to cause trouble. Older electric ranges and ovens ranged between 30
and 60 amps. Dryers were between 40-60 amps. So guessing in an
unmarked panel is a crapshoot. I do remember you said you were
training to be an electrician. Please be careful giving advice out on
an installation you've not seen.

I wasn't being entirely serious. I shoulda tagged it "sarcasm", I guess.

And also? The system Sky was describing isn't one she has access to
now, but one she described as being around when she was a child.

I know that. What I wrote was about older systems. Look above and
you'll see the word older.

Lou