Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Upgrade or not

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Cycling Equipment
Published
8 August 2004
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9 August 2004
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Yum
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  1. I started riding bicyle 2 years ago. I bought an entry level road bike,
    Canondale CAD2 with STI shifter. I changed pedals to clipless.and added a
    wireless cycle computer. I really don't have complaints with my bike,
    except gear shift may not be as smooth as it should be.
    Now here is my question. What can I expect from a better/more expensive
    bicycle ? Is it really worth extra money for a recreational rider ?
    What kind of upgrade do you recommend ? I usually ride on paved road.
    I use it for commuting and weekend ride. 30-50 miles.
    What about carbon frame/forks ? Does better drive train make big
    difference ? TiA.

  2. "Yum" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I started riding bicyle 2 years ago. I bought an entry level road bike,
    Canondale CAD2 with STI shifter. I changed pedals to clipless.and added a
    wireless cycle computer. I really don't have complaints with my bike,
    except gear shift may not be as smooth as it should be.
    Now here is my question. What can I expect from a better/more expensive
    bicycle ? Is it really worth extra money for a recreational rider ?
    What kind of upgrade do you recommend ? I usually ride on paved road.
    I use it for commuting and weekend ride. 30-50 miles.
    What about carbon frame/forks ? Does better drive train make big
    difference ? TiA.

    Probably the best upgrade you could make is new wheels. I don't know
    anything about the wheels you have, but assuming they came standard on your
    lower-end bike, they probaby are heavy and have pretty crappy hubs. There
    are a zillion wheel options out there and it would be a LONG post to try to
    cover the topic well. I'd suggest you decide what you want to spend and
    then start researching wheels. You can get very good, low-weight, high
    quality wheels for as little as $300 a set from some sources. Or you can
    easily spend $1,000 for the latest, high-tech, lightest, most aerodynamic
    thing on the market. Longevity and practicality for everyday riding seem to
    have an inverse relationship to price.

    Just my 2 cents.

    Bob C.

  3. "psycholist" <[email hidden]> a écrit dans le message de :
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I'd suggest you decide what you want to spend and
    then start researching wheels. You can get very good, low-weight, high
    quality wheels for as little as $300 a set from some sources.

    Are wheels really that expensive over there ?
    I just got a pair of CXP-22's on Centaur hubs, 14/15 spokes, for 100 euros.
    Hand built through the club, from a member.

    Good wheels, tires, latex tubes, all together would cost me around 160
    euros, and would be a smart upgrade for this rider, I think.
    --
    Sandy
    Paris FR

    *******

    La vie, c'est comme une bicyclette,
    il faut avancer pour ne pas perdre l'équilibre.
    -- Einstein, A.

  4. Yum said:

    I started riding bicyle 2 years ago. I bought an entry level road bike,
    Canondale CAD2 with STI shifter. I changed pedals to clipless.and added a
    wireless cycle computer. I really don't have complaints with my bike,
    except gear shift may not be as smooth as it should be.

    It sounds like there are no serious problems with the bike. You weren't too
    specific about the shifting not being smooth, but I suspect that may be an
    adjustment or a cable/housing issue. A good mechanic should be able to
    resolve that easily.

    Quoted message said:

    What can I expect from a better/more expensive
    bicycle ? Is it really worth extra money for a recreational rider ?
    What kind of upgrade do you recommend ? I usually ride on paved road.
    I use it for commuting and weekend ride. 30-50 miles.
    What about carbon frame/forks ? Does better drive train make big
    difference ?

    Assuming your present bike is the correct size, and is set up properly for
    you, I don't think you would see a big improvement from a new bike. A
    difference of a couple of pounds in bike weight may make climbing very
    slightly easier, but nothing earth shaking.

    A more expensive drivetrain would probably be the least helpful upgrade.
    Even wheels won't make much difference for recreational riders, assuming
    your current wheels are staying true and not breaking spokes.

    Tires probably have more effect on ride quality than anything. If your bike
    rides harsh (harshly?), try replacing the tires with a slightly wider model
    that can be run at a bit less pressure.

    You didn't mention the saddle, so I'll assume that's ok. But if not, that's
    an obvious candidate for replacement. Price is no assurance of comfort.

    You might want to spend some money getting a good fit at a local shop that
    knows what they're doing. Check with other cyclists or clubs in your area
    for recommendations.

    Art Harris

  5. Yum said:

    I started riding bicyle 2 years ago. I bought an entry level road bike,
    Canondale CAD2 with STI shifter. I changed pedals to clipless.and added a
    wireless cycle computer. I really don't have complaints with my bike,
    except gear shift may not be as smooth as it should be.

    Have you replaced the chain? Maybe a new cassette, possibly even new
    chainrings? A thorough overhaul- cables, housings, adjustments, etc.-
    might clear up the shifting issues.

    Quoted message said:

    Now here is my question. What can I expect from a better/more expensive
    bicycle ?

    Lighter weight, possibly crisper shifting, higher quality bearings,
    etc.

    Quoted message said:

    Is it really worth extra money for a recreational rider ?

    That's your call completely. If you have $1000 and nothing else to do
    with it, then a local bike shop will be happy to arrange a trade- your
    money for one of their bikes.

    What bothers you about the present bike? What do you expect a more
    expensive bike would do for you? How about going for a test ride at a
    bike shop? See what your money could get you.... be sure to check over
    this article before doing this, though-

    http://www.chainreactionbicycles.com/roadbiketestrides.htm

    Quoted message said:

    What kind of upgrade do you recommend ?

    Others suggest wheels- worth looking into. Tires. Brake pads.

    Quoted message said:

    I usually ride on paved road.
    I use it for commuting and weekend ride. 30-50 miles.
    What about carbon frame/forks ? Does better drive train make big
    difference ? TiA.

    Hard to know what you are looking for.

  6. Quoted message said:

    Now here is my question. What can I expect from a better/more expensive
    bicycle ? Is it really worth extra money for a recreational rider ?
    What kind of upgrade do you recommend ? I usually ride on paved road.
    I use it for commuting and weekend ride. 30-50 miles.
    What about carbon frame/forks ? Does better drive train make big
    difference ? TiA.

    If you're a recreational rider, its for good reason. If you plan on racing,
    chances are you're relatively young. I started at age 54 with riding a hybrid
    and at age 55 on a road bike. I consider myself a recreation rider but I put
    in more miles than you. I don't enter any races, not even any organized rides
    like centuries or half centuries. I put in about 3,000 miles for the past two
    years and this year so far about 2,800 miles. So when I bought my brand new
    road bike, it was on an after Christmas sale and the only upgrade is the
    Michelin Pro Race tires.

  7. Yum said:

    I started riding bicyle 2 years ago. I bought an entry level road bike,
    Canondale CAD2 with STI shifter. I changed pedals to clipless.and added a
    wireless cycle computer. I really don't have complaints with my bike,
    except gear shift may not be as smooth as it should be.
    Now here is my question. What can I expect from a better/more expensive
    bicycle ? Is it really worth extra money for a recreational rider ?
    What kind of upgrade do you recommend ? I usually ride on paved road.
    I use it for commuting and weekend ride. 30-50 miles.
    What about carbon frame/forks ? Does better drive train make big
    difference ? TiA.

    I have been riding seriously less time that you (about 5 months), and
    so far I only ride on paved bike trails, so take what I say with a
    large grain of salt compared to what sages like Sheldon and Art Harris
    tell you.

    I think to a large degree the answer to your question depends on what
    you want to do with the bike. I am 54 and not knowing if this bike
    thing would last, I started with some garage sale 10 speed bikes.
    First an old Schwinn, and a Huffy (29 pounds). I bought the tools and
    supplies that I needed and rebuilt what needed to be rebuilt. Then I
    rode them 25-40 miles a day as fast as I could. I don't do orgainzed
    races or group rides (yet), but I don't like anyone to pass me even if
    I am 54 and they are 22 [G]. I finally "splugerd" and bought a used
    lugged steel frame bike (23 pounds) with shimano SIS and 105
    everything.

    I haven't made the jump to full STI and a 15 pound frame with carbon
    forks yet, but here is what I have learned so far.

    Assuming you are already running reasonably sized tires for commuting
    (25c-32c) a better bike isn't going to make you appreciably faster. I
    have gone from top speeds of 25 mph (and averages of 15 on long trips)
    on my 29 pound huffy with 27x1.25 tires to top speeds of 30 mph and
    averages of 18 on my "new Miele," but I am also 30 pounds lighter
    around my middle and now have calves and muscles in my legs that you
    can actually see. I think it has more to do with the latter than the
    bike. I also get a bit faster every week, and I am sure the bike isn't
    getting any better. I am also not nearly as tired after my 75 mile
    weekend rides.

    I find that only about 1 Specialized, Orbea, Lightspeed, Trek, or
    other yuppie brand bike with STI drops me now for each 5 or 6 that I
    drop. I ride on mostly modest hills (some would say no hills trails
    with 1%-2% grades), so I really don't need to shift all that much. In
    fact I am always amused when I pass one madly clicking for that
    perfect gear.

    In other words, I can truthfully say its not mostly about the bike
    where I ride, assuming you are not riding something without workable
    gears or underinflated tires wider than 1.25".

    None of this applies if you want to race competively, where every
    ounce and second counts.

    On the other hand, if I did a lot of group riding 1" off someones rear
    tire, I would want STI and I would want it to shift instantly. I don't
    have much trouble using my current downtube shifters with SIS, but
    they are infinintely more enjoyable than the friction ones were. I not
    longer have to think about whehter I will get the gear I want, when I
    want it.

    As far as new wheels or shaving a few more grams or even a few pounds
    off your bike, from what I have read in "Bicycle Science" and on this
    newsgroup, its just not going to make a dramatic difference. Its
    really more about air resistance once you get over 20 mph. Assuming
    your wheels are true I would keep them for commuting and perhaps get a
    set of better wheels with skinnier tires for "racing" on the
    weekends..

    If I were commuting on a bike, I would want a touring bike with plenty
    of braze ons, a sturdy (but not too heavy) frame, good brakes, and SIS
    shifting at a minimum. Add a rack, some decent pedals and other
    creature comforts as you want.

    In the end, decide if you want to tour, race, or commute, or all
    three. Then look at what you get for the money and try to get some
    info on how much it will add to that function. It seems to me that you
    mostly get lighter (but perhaps weaker) frames, better shifting from
    the brake levers, a cooler look, better machined components all
    around, lighter wheels, and a fancy name for about $500-$3000 more.
    You also get a beautiful work of art which you can take pride in, and
    that is nothing to sneer at if you have the money.

  8. Thank you all for good suggestions. They are all useful information. I
    guess I wasn't very specific about what I was looking for. I am not really
    interested in racing. I was looking for suggestions that makes ride safer,
    more comfortable and fun without spending fortune. I ride for my health
    and fun. I agree that the rider would be more important than bicycle.

  9. In article said:

    I was looking for suggestions that makes ride safer,

    What makes ride safer:

    - Bright clothes. Bright lights, when it comes dark.
    - Skills in braking (and probably jumping over obstacles).

    It is easy to learn braking. Find a quite place, speed up to a
    known speed, brake at a known point, measure the distance before you stop.
    Do the same on wet/sandy/unpaved road. Do the same, but with some turning,
    as if you need to stop in a steep curve.

    Safety has nothing to do with the expensive upgrades, as long
    as you have normally working brakes. And the cheapest road brakes
    with better pads will do their job good enough.

    -- Konstantin

  10. "Yum" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    I started riding bicyle 2 years ago. I bought an entry level road bike,
    Canondale CAD2 with STI shifter. I changed pedals to clipless.and added a
    wireless cycle computer. I really don't have complaints with my bike,
    except gear shift may not be as smooth as it should be.
    Now here is my question. What can I expect from a better/more expensive
    bicycle ? Is it really worth extra money for a recreational rider ?
    What kind of upgrade do you recommend ? I usually ride on paved road.
    I use it for commuting and weekend ride. 30-50 miles.
    What about carbon frame/forks ? Does better drive train make big
    difference ? TiA.

    There are a number of things you can do. I think that its not really
    the bike, but what you do with the bike that makes the difference.
    That said, here's what I have done (after being a strictly utilitarian
    commuter for a long time and then expanding my cycling experience):

    1) Get a mountain bike. Hit some trails. It is a lot of fun and can be
    as sedate or as rough and tumble as you like. No need to get any
    suspension. The variety of riding a mountain bike and a road bike will
    keep you highly entertained.

    2) Purchase used bikes that are very different and better than your
    current ride. You can get a variety of really cool 10-20 year old
    bikes for very low cost (and sometimes free). Tool around with these
    bikes, learn how to do maintainance and how to build-up a bike from
    the bare frame. Make franken-bikes from old bikes. Buy components
    cheapy on the internet and experiment. You will eventually develop a
    unique taste for what you like and what you don't like. Things that
    make you want to ride will make you a better rider.

    3) If you don't want to tool around, then upgrade your wheels. Also, a
    nice seat, properly adjusted, will do wonders as will a pair of good
    cycling shorts. Forks are a matter of personal taste.

    Drive train is not critical as long as it is well-adjusted (sounds
    like yours needs some adjusting). All mainstream stuff from the major
    manufacturers works great if it is maintained (bicycle drivetrains are
    not "cutting-edge" technology despite what the bicycle manufacturers
    say). It is worth it to learn how to perform maintainance on brakes
    and drive train, even if you are not mechanically inclined.

  11. yum-<< I started riding bicyle 2 years ago. I bought an entry level road
    bike,
    Canondale CAD2 with STI shifter. I changed pedals to clipless.and added a
    wireless cycle computer. I really don't have complaints with my bike,
    except gear shift may not be as smooth as it should be. >><BR><BR>
    << What can I expect from a better/more expensive
    bicycle ? Is it really worth extra money for a recreational rider ?

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    <BR><BR>

    A wee bit lighter, maybe. If the bike fits you, and you like to ride it, ride
    it. Perhaps use lighter tires, tubes, but ride it. WAY too much emphasis placed
    on equipment these days. Spending lots of $ will not make any difference in
    your riding performance. Remember riding performance is 4 things-
    -fit-does the bicycle fot you?
    -fitness-being 'fit
    -fat-lack thereof on you
    -finesse-riding, training smart.

    Peter Chisholm
    Vecchio's Bicicletteria
    1833 Pearl St.
    Boulder, CO, 80302
    (303)440-3535
    http://www.vecchios.com
    "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

  12. "Yum" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    Thank you all for good suggestions. They are all useful information. I
    guess I wasn't very specific about what I was looking for. I am not really
    interested in racing. I was looking for suggestions that makes ride safer,
    more comfortable and fun without spending fortune. I ride for my health
    and fun. I agree that the rider would be more important than bicycle.

    A nice pair of cycling shoes will probably make the most difference.
    I recommend Carnac shoes. The fit is wonderful. Good cycling shoes
    really are worth the money. Probably the best place to spend money
    for comfort on a bike.

    Good shorts also make a difference. I can tell the difference between
    my Cannondale Velocity shorts and my cheap Bellwether, cheap
    Performance, cheap Nashbar shorts.

    As others have said, making sure your current bike is tuned up will
    help with shifting. Using narrower or wider tires will affect comfort
    and speed. If you're riding the road, not loaded with panniers, all
    the time, there is no point having 35mm tires.

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