I started riding bicyle 2 years ago. I bought an entry level road bike,
Canondale CAD2 with STI shifter. I changed pedals to clipless.and added a
wireless cycle computer. I really don't have complaints with my bike,
except gear shift may not be as smooth as it should be.
Now here is my question. What can I expect from a better/more expensive
bicycle ? Is it really worth extra money for a recreational rider ?
What kind of upgrade do you recommend ? I usually ride on paved road.
I use it for commuting and weekend ride. 30-50 miles.
What about carbon frame/forks ? Does better drive train make big
difference ? TiA.
Cycling Equipment · Public discussion
Upgrade or not
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- Cycling Equipment
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- 8 August 2004
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- Yum
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"Yum" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
I started riding bicyle 2 years ago. I bought an entry level road bike,
Canondale CAD2 with STI shifter. I changed pedals to clipless.and added a
wireless cycle computer. I really don't have complaints with my bike,
except gear shift may not be as smooth as it should be.
Now here is my question. What can I expect from a better/more expensive
bicycle ? Is it really worth extra money for a recreational rider ?
What kind of upgrade do you recommend ? I usually ride on paved road.
I use it for commuting and weekend ride. 30-50 miles.
What about carbon frame/forks ? Does better drive train make big
difference ? TiA.Probably the best upgrade you could make is new wheels. I don't know
anything about the wheels you have, but assuming they came standard on your
lower-end bike, they probaby are heavy and have pretty crappy hubs. There
are a zillion wheel options out there and it would be a LONG post to try to
cover the topic well. I'd suggest you decide what you want to spend and
then start researching wheels. You can get very good, low-weight, high
quality wheels for as little as $300 a set from some sources. Or you can
easily spend $1,000 for the latest, high-tech, lightest, most aerodynamic
thing on the market. Longevity and practicality for everyday riding seem to
have an inverse relationship to price.Just my 2 cents.
Bob C.
-
"psycholist" <[email hidden]> a écrit dans le message de :
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
I'd suggest you decide what you want to spend and
then start researching wheels. You can get very good, low-weight, high
quality wheels for as little as $300 a set from some sources.Are wheels really that expensive over there ?
I just got a pair of CXP-22's on Centaur hubs, 14/15 spokes, for 100 euros.
Hand built through the club, from a member.Good wheels, tires, latex tubes, all together would cost me around 160
euros, and would be a smart upgrade for this rider, I think.
--
Sandy
Paris FR*******
La vie, c'est comme une bicyclette,
il faut avancer pour ne pas perdre l'équilibre.
-- Einstein, A. -
Yum said:
I started riding bicyle 2 years ago. I bought an entry level road bike,
Canondale CAD2 with STI shifter. I changed pedals to clipless.and added a
wireless cycle computer. I really don't have complaints with my bike,
except gear shift may not be as smooth as it should be.It sounds like there are no serious problems with the bike. You weren't too
specific about the shifting not being smooth, but I suspect that may be an
adjustment or a cable/housing issue. A good mechanic should be able to
resolve that easily.Quoted message said:
What can I expect from a better/more expensive
bicycle ? Is it really worth extra money for a recreational rider ?
What kind of upgrade do you recommend ? I usually ride on paved road.
I use it for commuting and weekend ride. 30-50 miles.
What about carbon frame/forks ? Does better drive train make big
difference ?Assuming your present bike is the correct size, and is set up properly for
you, I don't think you would see a big improvement from a new bike. A
difference of a couple of pounds in bike weight may make climbing very
slightly easier, but nothing earth shaking.A more expensive drivetrain would probably be the least helpful upgrade.
Even wheels won't make much difference for recreational riders, assuming
your current wheels are staying true and not breaking spokes.Tires probably have more effect on ride quality than anything. If your bike
rides harsh (harshly?), try replacing the tires with a slightly wider model
that can be run at a bit less pressure.You didn't mention the saddle, so I'll assume that's ok. But if not, that's
an obvious candidate for replacement. Price is no assurance of comfort.You might want to spend some money getting a good fit at a local shop that
knows what they're doing. Check with other cyclists or clubs in your area
for recommendations.Art Harris
-
Yum said:
I started riding bicyle 2 years ago. I bought an entry level road bike,
Canondale CAD2 with STI shifter. I changed pedals to clipless.and added a
wireless cycle computer. I really don't have complaints with my bike,
except gear shift may not be as smooth as it should be.Have you replaced the chain? Maybe a new cassette, possibly even new
chainrings? A thorough overhaul- cables, housings, adjustments, etc.-
might clear up the shifting issues.Quoted message said:
Now here is my question. What can I expect from a better/more expensive
bicycle ?Lighter weight, possibly crisper shifting, higher quality bearings,
etc.Quoted message said:
Is it really worth extra money for a recreational rider ?
That's your call completely. If you have $1000 and nothing else to do
with it, then a local bike shop will be happy to arrange a trade- your
money for one of their bikes.What bothers you about the present bike? What do you expect a more
expensive bike would do for you? How about going for a test ride at a
bike shop? See what your money could get you.... be sure to check over
this article before doing this, though-http://www.chainreactionbicycles.com/roadbiketestrides.htm
Quoted message said:
What kind of upgrade do you recommend ?
Others suggest wheels- worth looking into. Tires. Brake pads.
Quoted message said:
I usually ride on paved road.
I use it for commuting and weekend ride. 30-50 miles.
What about carbon frame/forks ? Does better drive train make big
difference ? TiA.Hard to know what you are looking for.
-
Quoted message said:
Now here is my question. What can I expect from a better/more expensive
bicycle ? Is it really worth extra money for a recreational rider ?
What kind of upgrade do you recommend ? I usually ride on paved road.
I use it for commuting and weekend ride. 30-50 miles.
What about carbon frame/forks ? Does better drive train make big
difference ? TiA.If you're a recreational rider, its for good reason. If you plan on racing,
chances are you're relatively young. I started at age 54 with riding a hybrid
and at age 55 on a road bike. I consider myself a recreation rider but I put
in more miles than you. I don't enter any races, not even any organized rides
like centuries or half centuries. I put in about 3,000 miles for the past two
years and this year so far about 2,800 miles. So when I bought my brand new
road bike, it was on an after Christmas sale and the only upgrade is the
Michelin Pro Race tires. -
Yum said:
I started riding bicyle 2 years ago. I bought an entry level road bike,
Canondale CAD2 with STI shifter. I changed pedals to clipless.and added a
wireless cycle computer. I really don't have complaints with my bike,
except gear shift may not be as smooth as it should be.
Now here is my question. What can I expect from a better/more expensive
bicycle ? Is it really worth extra money for a recreational rider ?
What kind of upgrade do you recommend ? I usually ride on paved road.
I use it for commuting and weekend ride. 30-50 miles.
What about carbon frame/forks ? Does better drive train make big
difference ? TiA.I have been riding seriously less time that you (about 5 months), and
so far I only ride on paved bike trails, so take what I say with a
large grain of salt compared to what sages like Sheldon and Art Harris
tell you.I think to a large degree the answer to your question depends on what
you want to do with the bike. I am 54 and not knowing if this bike
thing would last, I started with some garage sale 10 speed bikes.
First an old Schwinn, and a Huffy (29 pounds). I bought the tools and
supplies that I needed and rebuilt what needed to be rebuilt. Then I
rode them 25-40 miles a day as fast as I could. I don't do orgainzed
races or group rides (yet), but I don't like anyone to pass me even if
I am 54 and they are 22 [G]. I finally "splugerd" and bought a used
lugged steel frame bike (23 pounds) with shimano SIS and 105
everything.I haven't made the jump to full STI and a 15 pound frame with carbon
forks yet, but here is what I have learned so far.Assuming you are already running reasonably sized tires for commuting
(25c-32c) a better bike isn't going to make you appreciably faster. I
have gone from top speeds of 25 mph (and averages of 15 on long trips)
on my 29 pound huffy with 27x1.25 tires to top speeds of 30 mph and
averages of 18 on my "new Miele," but I am also 30 pounds lighter
around my middle and now have calves and muscles in my legs that you
can actually see. I think it has more to do with the latter than the
bike. I also get a bit faster every week, and I am sure the bike isn't
getting any better. I am also not nearly as tired after my 75 mile
weekend rides.I find that only about 1 Specialized, Orbea, Lightspeed, Trek, or
other yuppie brand bike with STI drops me now for each 5 or 6 that I
drop. I ride on mostly modest hills (some would say no hills trails
with 1%-2% grades), so I really don't need to shift all that much. In
fact I am always amused when I pass one madly clicking for that
perfect gear.In other words, I can truthfully say its not mostly about the bike
where I ride, assuming you are not riding something without workable
gears or underinflated tires wider than 1.25".None of this applies if you want to race competively, where every
ounce and second counts.On the other hand, if I did a lot of group riding 1" off someones rear
tire, I would want STI and I would want it to shift instantly. I don't
have much trouble using my current downtube shifters with SIS, but
they are infinintely more enjoyable than the friction ones were. I not
longer have to think about whehter I will get the gear I want, when I
want it.As far as new wheels or shaving a few more grams or even a few pounds
off your bike, from what I have read in "Bicycle Science" and on this
newsgroup, its just not going to make a dramatic difference. Its
really more about air resistance once you get over 20 mph. Assuming
your wheels are true I would keep them for commuting and perhaps get a
set of better wheels with skinnier tires for "racing" on the
weekends..If I were commuting on a bike, I would want a touring bike with plenty
of braze ons, a sturdy (but not too heavy) frame, good brakes, and SIS
shifting at a minimum. Add a rack, some decent pedals and other
creature comforts as you want.In the end, decide if you want to tour, race, or commute, or all
three. Then look at what you get for the money and try to get some
info on how much it will add to that function. It seems to me that you
mostly get lighter (but perhaps weaker) frames, better shifting from
the brake levers, a cooler look, better machined components all
around, lighter wheels, and a fancy name for about $500-$3000 more.
You also get a beautiful work of art which you can take pride in, and
that is nothing to sneer at if you have the money. -
Thank you all for good suggestions. They are all useful information. I
guess I wasn't very specific about what I was looking for. I am not really
interested in racing. I was looking for suggestions that makes ride safer,
more comfortable and fun without spending fortune. I ride for my health
and fun. I agree that the rider would be more important than bicycle. -
In article said:
I was looking for suggestions that makes ride safer,
What makes ride safer:
- Bright clothes. Bright lights, when it comes dark.
- Skills in braking (and probably jumping over obstacles).It is easy to learn braking. Find a quite place, speed up to a
known speed, brake at a known point, measure the distance before you stop.
Do the same on wet/sandy/unpaved road. Do the same, but with some turning,
as if you need to stop in a steep curve.Safety has nothing to do with the expensive upgrades, as long
as you have normally working brakes. And the cheapest road brakes
with better pads will do their job good enough.-- Konstantin
-
"Yum" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
I started riding bicyle 2 years ago. I bought an entry level road bike,
Canondale CAD2 with STI shifter. I changed pedals to clipless.and added a
wireless cycle computer. I really don't have complaints with my bike,
except gear shift may not be as smooth as it should be.
Now here is my question. What can I expect from a better/more expensive
bicycle ? Is it really worth extra money for a recreational rider ?
What kind of upgrade do you recommend ? I usually ride on paved road.
I use it for commuting and weekend ride. 30-50 miles.
What about carbon frame/forks ? Does better drive train make big
difference ? TiA.There are a number of things you can do. I think that its not really
the bike, but what you do with the bike that makes the difference.
That said, here's what I have done (after being a strictly utilitarian
commuter for a long time and then expanding my cycling experience):1) Get a mountain bike. Hit some trails. It is a lot of fun and can be
as sedate or as rough and tumble as you like. No need to get any
suspension. The variety of riding a mountain bike and a road bike will
keep you highly entertained.2) Purchase used bikes that are very different and better than your
current ride. You can get a variety of really cool 10-20 year old
bikes for very low cost (and sometimes free). Tool around with these
bikes, learn how to do maintainance and how to build-up a bike from
the bare frame. Make franken-bikes from old bikes. Buy components
cheapy on the internet and experiment. You will eventually develop a
unique taste for what you like and what you don't like. Things that
make you want to ride will make you a better rider.3) If you don't want to tool around, then upgrade your wheels. Also, a
nice seat, properly adjusted, will do wonders as will a pair of good
cycling shorts. Forks are a matter of personal taste.Drive train is not critical as long as it is well-adjusted (sounds
like yours needs some adjusting). All mainstream stuff from the major
manufacturers works great if it is maintained (bicycle drivetrains are
not "cutting-edge" technology despite what the bicycle manufacturers
say). It is worth it to learn how to perform maintainance on brakes
and drive train, even if you are not mechanically inclined. -
yum-<< I started riding bicyle 2 years ago. I bought an entry level road
bike,
Canondale CAD2 with STI shifter. I changed pedals to clipless.and added a
wireless cycle computer. I really don't have complaints with my bike,
except gear shift may not be as smooth as it should be. >><BR><BR>
<< What can I expect from a better/more expensive
bicycle ? Is it really worth extra money for a recreational rider ?Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
<BR><BR>
A wee bit lighter, maybe. If the bike fits you, and you like to ride it, ride
it. Perhaps use lighter tires, tubes, but ride it. WAY too much emphasis placed
on equipment these days. Spending lots of $ will not make any difference in
your riding performance. Remember riding performance is 4 things-
-fit-does the bicycle fot you?
-fitness-being 'fit
-fat-lack thereof on you
-finesse-riding, training smart.Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene" -
"Yum" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
Thank you all for good suggestions. They are all useful information. I
guess I wasn't very specific about what I was looking for. I am not really
interested in racing. I was looking for suggestions that makes ride safer,
more comfortable and fun without spending fortune. I ride for my health
and fun. I agree that the rider would be more important than bicycle.A nice pair of cycling shoes will probably make the most difference.
I recommend Carnac shoes. The fit is wonderful. Good cycling shoes
really are worth the money. Probably the best place to spend money
for comfort on a bike.Good shorts also make a difference. I can tell the difference between
my Cannondale Velocity shorts and my cheap Bellwether, cheap
Performance, cheap Nashbar shorts.As others have said, making sure your current bike is tuned up will
help with shifting. Using narrower or wider tires will affect comfort
and speed. If you're riding the road, not loaded with panniers, all
the time, there is no point having 35mm tires.
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