Does anyone know where I can purchase titanium bolts for my Ritchey WCS road
stem? I'm not concerned about the weight difference, it's just that the
Ritchey bolts have rust in them and I'd like to avoid that with ti bolts.
Also, exactly what size and type of bolts do I need to replace the four on
the face plate and the two bolts on the back of the stem? Thanks in
advance.
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Ti Bolts for Ritchey Stem
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- 12 May 2004
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- 8cht
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your best bet is asking that question here:
http://forums.mtbr.com/forumdisplay.php?s=711bed849a3248c27dca559b2db7409c&f=498cht said:
Does anyone know where I can purchase titanium bolts for my Ritchey WCS road
stem? I'm not concerned about the weight difference, it's just that the
Ritchey bolts have rust in them and I'd like to avoid that with ti bolts.
Also, exactly what size and type of bolts do I need to replace the four on
the face plate and the two bolts on the back of the stem? Thanks in
advance. -
On Wed, 12 May 2004 19:51:12 -0400, "8cht" <[email hidden]>
Quoted message said:
Does anyone know where I can purchase titanium bolts for my Ritchey WCS road
stem? I'm not concerned about the weight difference, it's just that the
Ritchey bolts have rust in them and I'd like to avoid that with ti bolts.
Also, exactly what size and type of bolts do I need to replace the four on
the face plate and the two bolts on the back of the stem? Thanks in
advance.The bolts are all likely standard metric bolts. They are measured by
taking the distance across the threads and the length of the threads.
For instance, a bolt that measures 6mm across with a vernier and 10mm
in length would be an m6x10. There are no in-between sizes and you can
use a ruler to measure quite adequately.
Sometimes, (usually) if you dont know the diameter, a knowledgable
shop would probably get you the right size based only on the length
and the size of key the head takes.
In any case, the link I mentioned above will show you different types.
The tapered head socket bolts are likely what you need. The tapered
head just saves a bit more weight. It's the bearing surface under the
head that is important, not the fact that the head tapers. You can get
washers if the original application used them.
Careful with the Ti. It creeps over your bike slowly, but expensively.
Have fun. -
On Thu, 13 May 2004 00:28:04 GMT, Henry Morgan <[email hidden]>
Quoted message said:
On Wed, 12 May 2004 19:51:12 -0400, "8cht" <[email hidden]>
Quoted message said:
Does anyone know where I can purchase titanium bolts for my Ritchey WCS road
stem? I'm not concerned about the weight difference, it's just that the
Ritchey bolts have rust in them and I'd like to avoid that with ti bolts.
Also, exactly what size and type of bolts do I need to replace the four on
the face plate and the two bolts on the back of the stem? Thanks in
advance.The bolts are all likely standard metric bolts. They are measured by
taking the distance across the threads and the length of the threads.
For instance, a bolt that measures 6mm across with a vernier and 10mm
in length would be an m6x10. There are no in-between sizes and you can
use a ruler to measure quite adequately.
Sometimes, (usually) if you dont know the diameter, a knowledgable
shop would probably get you the right size based only on the length
and the size of key the head takes.
In any case, the link I mentioned above will show you different types.
The tapered head socket bolts are likely what you need. The tapered
head just saves a bit more weight. It's the bearing surface under the
head that is important, not the fact that the head tapers. You can get
washers if the original application used them.
Careful with the Ti. It creeps over your bike slowly, but expensively.
Have fun.I forgot to mention. The length measurement is taken along the shank,
NOT including the head. -
Quoted message said:
Does anyone know where I can purchase titanium bolts for my Ritchey WCS road
stem? I'm not concerned about the weight difference, it's just that the
Ritchey bolts have rust in them and I'd like to avoid that with ti bolts.Switching to stainless steel bolting will avoid the corrosion issue, and be
cheaper than going to ti.SS bolts are available at better hardware stores.
Chris Neary
[email hidden]"Science, freedom, beauty, adventure: what more could
you ask of life? Bicycling combined all the elements I
loved" - Adapted from a quotation by Charles Lindbergh -
Quoted message said:
Does anyone know where I can purchase titanium bolts for my Ritchey WCS
roadQuoted message said:
stem? I'm not concerned about the weight difference, it's just that the
Ritchey bolts have rust in them and I'd like to avoid that with ti bolts.
Also, exactly what size and type of bolts do I need to replace the four on
the face plate and the two bolts on the back of the stem? Thanks in
advance.You might want to reconsider your choice of Ti bolts. Ti hardware is fine
in many applications, but to use it in a place where failure is, as they
say, not an option... that's not my first choice for where to put ultralight
stuff. It's not as strong as the steel hardware it's replacing, and your
objections about rust can be overcome with stainless steel hardware (or,
just replace the steel bolts once in a while, or make sure they're lightly
oiled).--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
http://www.ChainReactionBicycles.com -
8cht said:
Does anyone know where I can purchase titanium bolts for my Ritchey WCS road
stem? I'm not concerned about the weight difference, it's just that the
Ritchey bolts have rust in them and I'd like to avoid that with ti bolts.I'd prefer to avoid face plants when the Ti bolts fail by using steel bolts.
-
In article <[email hidden]>,
Mike Jacoubowsky said:
Quoted message said:
Does anyone know where I can purchase titanium bolts for my Ritchey WCS
roadQuoted message said:
stem? I'm not concerned about the weight difference, it's just that the
Ritchey bolts have rust in them and I'd like to avoid that with ti bolts.
Also, exactly what size and type of bolts do I need to replace the four on
the face plate and the two bolts on the back of the stem? Thanks in
advance.You might want to reconsider your choice of Ti bolts. Ti hardware is fine
in many applications, but to use it in a place where failure is, as they
say, not an option... that's not my first choice for where to put ultralight
stuff. It's not as strong as the steel hardware it's replacing, and your
objections about rust can be overcome with stainless steel hardware (or,
just replace the steel bolts once in a while, or make sure they're lightly
oiled).I think Mike is right here. The Ti bolts are just not as strong as they
need to be, especially in bolts as short as these, where the thread runs
right up to the bottom of the head. That is the typical failure point.
Drying that area of the bike off after a wash is important - try using some
compressed air (if you don't have access to it you can use that canned
stuff for computer or photo work) - then a little drop of oil. I'd stay
away from hardware store stainless bolts, too, as they are of unknown
quality. Try to find a good fastener supply place, if you can.--
tanx,
Howard"Moby [censored] was a work of art, What the hell happened?"
remove YOUR SHOES to reply, ok?
-
hortakiller-<< Does anyone know where I can purchase titanium bolts for my
Ritchey WCS road
stem? >><BR><BR>
<< it's just that the
Ritchey bolts have rust in them >><BR><BR>I wouldn't do this. Ti bolts that need a fair amount of torque tend to gall or
break. A stem is not a place to have things break. Why we don't sell Deda stems
with their silly ti bolts.Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene" -
"Howard Kveck" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
I'd stay
away from hardware store stainless bolts, too, as they are of unknown
quality. Try to find a good fastener supply place, if you can.Is this true (about hardware store quality)?
Recommendations? Anyone? Thx.
-
In article <[email hidden]>, No.KirbyPublic2
@Verizon.no.net says...Quoted message said:
"Howard Kveck" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
I'd stay
away from hardware store stainless bolts, too, as they are of unknown
quality. Try to find a good fastener supply place, if you can.Is this true (about hardware store quality)?
Depends on the hardware store, but IMO, since most people looking for
cheap fasteners don't pay the extra for stainless, the stainless is
likely to be of satisfactory quality.--
Remove the ns_ from if replying by e-mail (but keep posts in the
newsgroups if possible). -
"Kirby Krieger" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
"Howard Kveck" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
I'd stay
away from hardware store stainless bolts, too, as they are of unknown
quality. Try to find a good fastener supply place, if you can.Is this true (about hardware store quality)?
Recommendations? Anyone? Thx.
Hi tensile Allen screws are about as good as you can get.Marty
-
"8cht" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
Does anyone know where I can purchase titanium bolts for my Ritchey WCS road
stem? I'm not concerned about the weight difference, it's just that the
Ritchey bolts have rust in them and I'd like to avoid that with ti bolts.
Also, exactly what size and type of bolts do I need to replace the four on
the face plate and the two bolts on the back of the stem? Thanks in
advance.I think the bolts that came with WCS stems are stainless already. I
wouldn't use ordinally replacements from HW stores because the
standard sets have nicely polished heads. Contact Ritchey directly and
I am sure they can help you out. Don't forget to grease them before
install. WCS is my favorite stem. -
Umm...guys...Although Ti is only ~1/2 as STIFF as steel (i.e. for
equivalent sections, it deflects easier), it's STRENGTH is typically
greater than steel, especially stainless steels used for bolts and
screws.For example, here's a comparison of the yield strength (stress level
at which it permanently deforms) and tensile strength (stress level at
which it breaks) of 303 stainless steel (a typical stainless bolt
material) and Titanium 6Al4V.Yield Strength:
303 SS - 75,000 psi (cold worked)
Ti6Al4V - 128,000 psiTensile Strength:
303 SS - 110,000 psi (cold worked)
Ti6Al4V - 150,000 psiSo...I'd feel no uneasiness in replacing stem bolts (or any other
bolts on my bike) with Ti equivalents. They're actually stronger. On
top of that it's fatigue performance is typically as good or better
than steel. Just make sure you use anti-sieze compound on the
threads.Now then...aluminum bolts? No way.
Tom Anhalt
"Mike Jacoubowsky" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Does anyone know where I can purchase titanium bolts for my Ritchey WCS
roadQuoted message said:
stem? I'm not concerned about the weight difference, it's just that the
Ritchey bolts have rust in them and I'd like to avoid that with ti bolts.
Also, exactly what size and type of bolts do I need to replace the four on
the face plate and the two bolts on the back of the stem? Thanks in
advance.You might want to reconsider your choice of Ti bolts. Ti hardware is fine
in many applications, but to use it in a place where failure is, as they
say, not an option... that's not my first choice for where to put ultralight
stuff. It's not as strong as the steel hardware it's replacing, and your
objections about rust can be overcome with stainless steel hardware (or,
just replace the steel bolts once in a while, or make sure they're lightly
oiled).--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
http://www.ChainReactionBicycles.com -
"8cht" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
Does anyone know where I can purchase titanium bolts for my Ritchey WCS
roadQuoted message said:
stem? I'm not concerned about the weight difference, it's just that the
Ritchey bolts have rust in them and I'd like to avoid that with ti bolts.
Also, exactly what size and type of bolts do I need to replace the four on
the face plate and the two bolts on the back of the stem? Thanks in
advance.I once saw a rider rip the handlbars off his bike at the starting gun of a
road race - fortunately he was standing still. I asked him later - Ti
bolts. -
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Does anyone know where I can purchase titanium bolts for my Ritchey WCS
roadQuoted message said:
stem? I'm not concerned about the weight difference, it's just that the
Ritchey bolts have rust in them and I'd like to avoid that with ti bolts.I once saw a rider rip the handlbars off his bike at the starting gun of a
road race - fortunately he was standing still. I asked him later - Ti
bolts.I also wouldn't recommend ti-bolts for a stem. I once had a Ti-bolt of a Cinelli Solido stem snap. Luckely maneged to stop without
any damages, replaced the ti-bolts with steel ones after that. Why not get a supply of steel bolts (they're cheap) and change them
once a year or so before the rust sets is. It's easy to replace them without moving the handlebars on a four bolt stem."Kyle.B.H" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:hgOoc.1578$Dz.140563@attbi_s52...
Quoted message said:
"8cht" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
Does anyone know where I can purchase titanium bolts for my Ritchey WCS
roadQuoted message said:
stem? I'm not concerned about the weight difference, it's just that the
Ritchey bolts have rust in them and I'd like to avoid that with ti bolts.
Also, exactly what size and type of bolts do I need to replace the four on
the face plate and the two bolts on the back of the stem? Thanks in
advance.I once saw a rider rip the handlbars off his bike at the starting gun of a
road race - fortunately he was standing still. I asked him later - Ti
bolts. -
On 13 May 2004 12:51:42 GMT, [email hidden] (Qui si parla
Campagnolo ) said:
hortakiller-<< Does anyone know where I can purchase titanium bolts for my
Ritchey WCS road
stem? >><BR><BR>
<< it's just that the
Ritchey bolts have rust in them >><BR><BR>I wouldn't do this. Ti bolts that need a fair amount of torque tend to gall or
break. A stem is not a place to have things break. Why we don't sell Deda stems
with their silly ti bolts.That's why one uses an anti-galling compound on both Ti and stainless.
Ti bolts will not break in this application if correctly torqued.Quoted message said:
Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene" -
In article <[email hidden]>,
Marty Wallace said:
"Kirby Krieger" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
"Howard Kveck" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
I'd stay
away from hardware store stainless bolts, too, as they are of unknown
quality. Try to find a good fastener supply place, if you can.Is this true (about hardware store quality)?
Recommendations? Anyone? Thx.
Hi tensile Allen screws are about as good as you can get.It still kind of gets down to quality: the ones from fastener supply
places (like Olander or Danforth) are just better bolts than what you get
at the local Orchard Supply Hardware. Most readily available steel socket
head cap screws are of about the same grade (what you're referring to as hi
tensile), which is roughly in between grade 5 and grade 8, as I recall
(sorry, I left my Machinery's Handbook at work).An example of why I don't care for hardware store bolts: Recently, I had
to make some tooling to hold a part; it involved some 10-32 socket head cap
screws, which were to be tightened and removed with a screw driver handle
hex driver. You can't really make a huge amount of torque with those. On
about the fifth loosening/tightening cycle, the heads on the OSH brand
bolts started popping off. But the ones from Olander that we got to replace
those have been through at least 300 cycles with no loss.--
tanx,
Howard"Moby [censored] was a work of art, What the hell happened?"
remove YOUR SHOES to reply, ok?
-
(Richard Chan) said:
I think the bolts that came with WCS stems are stainless already. I
wouldn't use ordinally replacements from HW stores because the
standard sets have nicely polished heads.Stainless bolts are almost never polished. Most polished fasteners on
bikes are chrome plated and capable of rusting in the right
conditions. It is exceedingly rare for a bike parts manufacturer to
specify stainless fasteners, because they are both more expensive and
usually weaker than their carbon steel counterparts.In my experience as a career machinist, there is no appreciable
difference in quality among common stainless bolts and screws from
different sources. Hardened alloy steel fasteners-- which are usually
black in color-- come in premium quality varieties which are
distiguished by better finish, tighter tolerances, and certified
materials.Chalo Colina
-
ship-<< That's why one uses an anti-galling compound on both Ti and stainless.
Ti bolts will not break in this application if correctly torqued. >><BR><BR>ohhh really???
Deda stems, with lots of antisieze gooped on the bolts, still snap, freeze,
pull threads out. Ti bolts on a stem and many other places on a bicycle is
dummmmPeter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
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