Stripped Crank arm threads

"Mike Kennedy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Is there a way to pull a crank arm off if the threads have been stripped? I assume that the
LBS has some way to do this, but is there some way for me to do the work? Can stripped threads
be re-threaded?

Regards,

Mike

There are various methods. You can try riding it without the crank bolt, heating the arm up and
yanking, getting a drive gear puller from an auto parts store, or just plain beating the hell out of
it. You will not be able to re-thread the threads that are there and have them work correctly. If
you go the gear puller route and it's successful, I'd just put it back on and use that puller to
remove it from now on.

Cheers,

Scott..

S. Anderson said:

"Mike Kennedy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Is there a way to pull a crank arm off if the threads have been stripped? I assume that the
LBS has some way to do this, but is there some way for me to do the work? Can stripped
threads be re-threaded?

Regards,

Mike

There are various methods. You can try riding it without the crank bolt, heating the arm up and
yanking, getting a drive gear puller from an auto parts store, or just plain beating the hell out
of it. You will not be able to re-thread the threads that are there and have them work correctly.

Cranks can be rethreaded, but you'll have to use an oversize puller from then on

--
Marten

"M-Gineering import & framebouw" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Cranks can be rethreaded, but you'll have to use an oversize puller from then on

--
Marten

I've tried this route before and not had great success. Usually I go through the trouble of
re-threading to the larger Park puller size only to have the threads pull out when I try to remove
the crank again. Maybe I had poorly made tap or maybe I can't cut threads very well! In any event,
it is an alternative if you can get the threads cut well.

Cheers,

Scott..

Mike Kennedy said:

Is there a way to pull a crank arm off if the threads have been stripped? I assume that the LBS
has some way to do this, but is there some way for me to do the work? Can stripped threads be
re-threaded?

Amusing...not your post, but what it reminded me of. I serviced/rebuilt a mate's mountain bike this
week, and came across this very problem. The left crank came off no problem, but the right [drive]
side was a real stubborn so and so. Even with some heat, it just would not budge. So in the end it
was a battle between my strength and the threads on the crank!! So....out came the angle grinder. I
cut a grove about 2mm parrallel to the taper of the drive spindle [without damaging it], got the
hammer our, gave it a few bashes to weaken the already weakened alloy, and off it came. There's
something theraputic about an angle grinder :-)

In all honesty, if the threads are stripped, I'd suggest it's reached the end of it's life,
regardless of the fact that it might be a perfectly good crank. You never know when you might want
to service the BB, or do other work on the crankset. Much better to have all the 'service points' in
good order.

GarryB

Mike Kennedy' may have said:

Is there a way to pull a crank arm off if the threads have been stripped?

Several. On the left (non-drive) side, a gear puller will usually do the job. If it's on the drive
side, and if the chainrings allow enough access to be able to get the jaws of an ordinary gear
puller behind the hub, then that's probably your first approximation. If the chainrings can't be
gotten out of the way, or if it's a five-arm spider crank, you probably can't use this trick.

Quoted message said:

I assume that the LBS has some way to do this, but is there some way for me to do the work? Can
stripped threads be re-threaded?

If the crank is supposed to be usable when you're done, then it may be better to take it to the lbs,
as a certain amount of finesse may be required. If you want to try it yourself, then the suggestions
already posted (heating the hub with a propane torch, riding with the bolt loose or off, etc) all
have the potential to remove the arm, *but* they also all have the potential to damage the crank as
well. As was noted, Park makes an oversize puller, and there's a tap to cut the corresponding
threads, but this is one of those areas where unless you're pretty good with a big tap, there's more
than a trivial chance that the attempt will fail.

In order of what I'd try:

Gear puller.

Heat.

Ride with bolt loose.

Yank whole crank and BB off bike, take to machine shop, and have them use a press to pop the arm off
the shaft. (In my case, of course, the press is a whole lot closer.)

Use potentially destructive Big Hammers in a persuasive manner. (NOT recommended for those who are
not familiar with the techniques!)

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail. Yes, I have a killfile. If I
don't respond to something, it's also possible that I'm busy.

Thanks everyone for these suggestions! To be honest I had not thought about a gear puller 🙁 I also
do not really care if I damage the arm (non drive side). I would try the grinder, but my wife will
not let me have one
🙂

Mike

"Werehatrack" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Mike Kennedy' may have said:

Is there a way to pull a crank arm off if the threads have been stripped?

Several. On the left (non-drive) side, a gear puller will usually do the job. If it's on the drive
side, and if the chainrings allow enough access to be able to get the jaws of an ordinary gear
puller behind the hub, then that's probably your first approximation. If the chainrings can't be
gotten out of the way, or if it's a five-arm spider crank, you probably can't use this trick.

Quoted message said:

I assume that the LBS has some way to do this, but is there some way for me to do the work? Can
stripped threads be re-threaded?

If the crank is supposed to be usable when you're done, then it may be better to take it to the
lbs, as a certain amount of finesse may be required. If you want to try it yourself, then the
suggestions already posted (heating the hub with a propane torch, riding with the bolt loose or
off, etc) all have the potential to remove the arm, *but* they also all have the potential to
damage the crank as well. As was noted, Park makes an oversize puller, and there's a tap to cut
the corresponding threads, but this is one of those areas where unless you're pretty good with a
big tap, there's more than a trivial chance that the attempt will fail.

In order of what I'd try:

Gear puller.

Heat.

Ride with bolt loose.

Yank whole crank and BB off bike, take to machine shop, and have them use a press to pop the arm
off the shaft. (In my case, of course, the press is a whole lot closer.)

Use potentially destructive Big Hammers in a persuasive manner. (NOT recommended for those who are
not familiar with the techniques!)

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail. Yes, I have a killfile. If I
don't respond to something, it's also possible that I'm busy.

I used a cheap (thick) hatched head, no handle, as a wedge to pound into the space between the BB
and the crank arm. Alternated the the position around the crank, and pounded on the wedge with a 3
pound steel mallet.

Worked OK. Crank arm went shooting off after about 2-3 minutes of carefull work.

This was a beater bike with a sturdy cro mo frame and bottom bracket.

Not a good idea for lightweight alloy framed bikes or those without a enough steel surface on the BB
shell to guard the BB shell of the bike. Not a good idea if your using a Ti Bottom bracket. Wear
goggles in case something chips and , of course, handle the hatchet head with care and don't strike
it unless it is planted with the crank squarely pressing against the middel of the wedge (would not
want it to angel off and slip out of the crank/BB space).

Consider bracing the BB against the ground with wood blocks to prevent the tires from abosorbing the
effect of the hammer blows. Take care not to crush any cable routing doohickeys underneath the
bottom bracket. Could also turn it upsde down, insert a beater seatpost without a saddle, and let
the seat post contact the hard ground. Make sure seat post does not get pushed in all the way during
pounding, allowing the seat tube junction / lug to get damaged.

"Mike Kennedy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Is there a way to pull a crank arm off if the threads have been stripped? I assume that the LBS
has some way to do this, but is there some way for me to do the work? Can stripped threads be
re-threaded?

Regards,

Mike

Mike Kennedy said:

Thanks everyone for these suggestions! To be honest I had not thought about a gear puller 🙁 I
also do not really care if I damage the arm (non

An auto parts store with a tool loan program ought to do for the gear puller.

Quoted message said:

drive side). I would try the grinder, but my wife will not let me have one
🙂

What business does she have intruding on your domain? We're talking about Tools!

Buy the angle grinder. If it's the price that's the issue, look for a bottom-of-the-retail-chain
discounter like Ocean State Job Lot; those places tend to have angle grinders for $15...

Quoted message said:

Mike

--
Rick Onanian