Stripped crank arm

On Wed, 19 May 2004 21:32:07 GMT, "Steve" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Swapping out old-for-new rings last night, thought I had
the Park crank extractor threaded on correctly to a vintage
Suntour XC-Pro crank, felt the extractor "slip" while
attempting to remove the crank.

Bottom line is the crank threads are shot and while the
crank isn't coming off right away, the bad news is the Park
tool isn't getting the crank off right away either.

So what's the accepted method for removing the crank ?. LBS
"special tool", Sawzall the spindle ?.

One consideration and two ideas.

Basically, the crank is hosed, right? No harm in making it
worse, eh?

Ive heard that people will do a bit of hard riding with a
crank bolt all but falling off. This should loosen the crank
to the point it is about to drop off too. The crank is boned
now though since the flats (assuming square tapers) are no
longer...umm.. flat.

Ive taken a hacksaw and dremel to the crank near the spindle
and worked it till it popped free too. Takes a long time if
you dont want to damage the frame or spindle with the
hacksaw blade. Much easier going than trying to get through
the spindle though.

"Steve" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...
<snip>

Quoted message said:

So what's the accepted method for removing the crank ?.
LBS "special tool", Sawzall the spindle ?.

Any (useful) thoughts appreciated.

Steve B.

I've heard of various methods, from gear pullers to pickle
forks (one of these:
toolking.comview.aspOpen ↗ ). The
lowest-tech solution is to leave the bolt out and ride the
bike (carefully!) until the crank falls off.

I'd probably take a hacksaw to the crank and split it.
That'll teach it to strip!

Jeff

(Jeff Wills) said:

"Steve" <[email hidden]> wrote in message ne-
ws:<[email hidden]>-
... <snip>

Quoted message said:

So what's the accepted method for removing the crank ?.
LBS "special tool", Sawzall the spindle ?.

Any (useful) thoughts appreciated.

Steve B.

I've heard of various methods, from gear pullers to pickle
forks (one of these:
toolking.comview.aspOpen ↗ ). The
lowest-tech solution is to leave the bolt out and ride the
bike (carefully!) until the crank falls off.

I'd probably take a hacksaw to the crank and split it.
That'll teach it to strip!

Jeff

I was taking the Park Tool course at my LBS and when I was
in process of removing the crank arm on the project bike I
experienced the same problem. The instructor used a pickle
fork with quite some force and extracted the crank arm.
Did no damage to the carbon frame or the spindle. Your
mileage may vary.

Regards

David James

On Wed, 19 May 2004 21:32:07 GMT, "Steve" <[email hidden]> may

have said:

Swapping out old-for-new rings last night, thought I had
the Park crank extractor threaded on correctly to a vintage
Suntour XC-Pro crank, felt the extractor "slip" while
attempting to remove the crank.

Bottom line is the crank threads are shot and while the
crank isn't coming off right away, the bad news is the Park
tool isn't getting the crank off right away either.

So what's the accepted method for removing the crank ?. LBS
"special tool", Sawzall the spindle ?.

Any (useful) thoughts appreciated.

If you can demount the rings, move them toward the frame and
thereby get adequate access to the crank to use a
conventional gear puller, that's the logical place to start.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via
e-mail. Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature. Words
processed in a facility that contains nuts.

On Thu, 20 May 2004 09:00:14 -0500, David James <[email hidden]>

may have said:

I was taking the Park Tool course at my LBS and when I was
in process of removing the crank arm on the project bike I
experienced the same problem. The instructor used a pickle
fork with quite some force and extracted the crank arm. Did
no damage to the carbon frame or the spindle. Your mileage
may vary.

I recently sent a mass-market steel frame to recycling
because it had a BB shell with threads that would no longer
permit BB installation due to the use of one of those by
someone prior to my having acquired
it. If the BB has a stout lip, and you don't mind the
possibility that the bearings may be hosed by the side
force, a fork will often work. Just don't try it with a
BB that has a thin or fragile lip; the fork may do ugly
things in that case.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via
e-mail. Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature. Words
processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Werehatrack said:

I recently sent a mass-market steel frame to recycling
because it had a BB shell with threads that would no longer
permit BB installation due to the use of one of those by
someone prior to my having acquired
it.

There are BBs for frames with stripped threads.
--
Rick Onanian

If you have *any* threads at all left, there's a pretty good
solution. Your LBS will have a little tool, that has pilot
that threads into the BB threads themselvles. Then, there's
a piced that guides down into the threads, over the pilot,
and allows you to easily remove the crank. With this tool,
it's shocking how little threds you need to pull the crank.
I got mine long ago, I think it's a QBP part, but I'm not
sure. It's saved me several times, great investment, and
I've seen them on the wall at most LBS'.

-pete

"Steve" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Swapping out old-for-new rings last night, thought I had
the Park crank extractor threaded on correctly to a
vintage Suntour XC-Pro crank, felt

the

Quoted message said:

extractor "slip" while attempting to remove the crank.

Bottom line is the crank threads are shot and while the
crank isn't coming off right away, the bad news is the
Park tool isn't getting the crank off right away either.

So what's the accepted method for removing the crank ?.
LBS "special

tool",

Quoted message said:

Sawzall the spindle ?.

Any (useful) thoughts appreciated.

Steve B.

On Thu, 20 May 2004 13:10:32 -0400, Rick Onanian <[email hidden]>

may have said:

Werehatrack said:

I recently sent a mass-market steel frame to recycling
because it had a BB shell with threads that would no
longer permit BB installation due to the use of one of
those by someone prior to my having acquired
it.

There are BBs for frames with stripped threads.

Not stripped in this case. Mashed and distorted. The
shoulder of the shell is no longer square. It would still
would with a threadless BB, but it was a crappy frame
anyway; why bother?

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via
e-mail. Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature. Words
processed in a facility that contains nuts.

For removal of a stripped arm, one fairly simply and
effective method is to loosen the crank bolt one or two
turns and to ride the bike. The pressure from the bolt holds
the arm secure. The stress of riding without pressure tends
to loosen the arm, either square type or spline type. Do not
remove the bolt entirely, as the arm may come off during a
power stroke.

Regarding the tool mentioned by Pete Grey, that is a Bicycle
Research tool, the TC-10.

Thanks to all,

I had forgotten the excellent Park Tools website that
offered the same advice,

SB

"Calvin Jones" <[email hidden]> wrote in message ...

Quoted message said:

For removal of a stripped arm, one fairly simply and
effective method is to loosen the crank bolt one or two
turns and to ride the bike. The pressure from the bolt
holds the arm secure. The stress of riding without
pressure tends to loosen the arm, either square type or
spline type. Do not remove the bolt entirely, as the arm
may come off during a power stroke.

Regarding the tool mentioned by Pete Grey, that is a
Bicycle Research tool, the TC-10.

I looked up the tool, it's a BR-TC8.

Also, on biketoolsetc (shameless plug for guys with GREAT
selection of tools/small parts), I did some quick browsing,
and there are a number of pullers available that don't
require threads at all. Most look like they'd be easier on
the crank than the fork model, some such that I bet you
could continue to use this crank indefinitely...

-pete

"Pete Grey" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

If you have *any* threads at all left, there's a pretty
good solution. Your LBS will have a little tool, that has
pilot that threads into the BB threads themselvles. Then,
there's a piced that guides down into the threads, over
the pilot, and allows you to easily remove the crank. With
this tool, it's shocking how little threds you need to
pull the

crank.

Quoted message said:

I got mine long ago, I think it's a QBP part, but I'm not
sure. It's

saved

Quoted message said:

me several times, great investment, and I've seen them on
the wall at most LBS'.

-pete

"Steve" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Swapping out old-for-new rings last night, thought I had
the Park crank extractor threaded on correctly to a
vintage Suntour XC-Pro crank, felt

the

Quoted message said:

extractor "slip" while attempting to remove the crank.

Bottom line is the crank threads are shot and while the
crank isn't

coming

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

off right away, the bad news is the Park tool isn't
getting the crank

off

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

right away either.

So what's the accepted method for removing the crank ?.
LBS "special

tool",

Quoted message said:

Sawzall the spindle ?.

Any (useful) thoughts appreciated.

Steve B.