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Sprocket advice etc ...

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UK and Europe
Published
10 July 2003
Last activity
12 July 2003
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Elyob
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  1. I'm coming up for a new chain and sprockets change .. I'm on a Kona MTB with XT gearing ..

    What are the options on what to buy .. ? Can I get different sized sprockets for more road riding
    ... ? Where's the best place to order this stuff online?

    Many thanks

    Nick Channel 5's Cycling Pundit 🙂

  2. elyob said:

    I'm coming up for a new chain and sprockets change .. I'm on a Kona MTB with XT gearing ..

    What are the options on what to buy .. ? Can I get different sized sprockets for more road riding
    ... ? Where's the best place to order this stuff online?

    Many thanks

    Nick Channel 5's Cycling Pundit 🙂

    i have run a normal 9spd road cassette on my mtb without hassle - i just went into my LBS and voila.
    most fun, so long as i remember to take it off before heading to the peak district!

    panda

  3. elyob said:

    I'm coming up for a new chain and sprockets change .. I'm on a Kona MTB with XT gearing ..

    What are the options on what to buy .. ? Can I get different sized sprockets for more road riding
    ... ? Where's the best place to order this stuff online?

    You can run out of high gears with the standard MTB gearing of 22-32-44 on the front, and 11-28
    (8-speed) or 11/12-30(9-speed) on the back. I haven't seen any rear cassettes with a small cog
    smaller than 11 teeth, so you'd need to get bigger chainrings if your cassette is already
    11-something. Even if you do get a smaller small rear cog it won't make a huge difference.

    If you're just looking for the gear rations to be closer together, then a Shimano road cassette will
    just slip straight on the rear hub (after you've got the lockring off).

    The Shimano Deore chainset is available as 28-38-48, which is the sort of size you'd see on a hybrid
    bike. It's square taper only. You wouldn't want to be switching between that and a regular MTB
    chainset too often, as the front derailleur would need to be moved up the seat tube for the bigger
    chainrings and then setup accordingly.

    You may need to accept that you'll just need to freewheel downhill occasionally.

    For MTB stuff, I usually buy from

    www.chainreactioncycles.com www.bikedock.co.uk www.merlin.co.uk www.wiggle.co.uk

    They vary slightly by what they tend to have in stock, and on price/delivery cost. I should add a
    recommendation for Merlins wheels, as it may be worth having a spare set if you switch between
    on/off road and want tyres that match.

    --

    Regards,

    Mark Davies

  4. "Mark D" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    elyob said:

    I'm coming up for a new chain and sprockets change .. I'm on a Kona MTB with XT gearing ..

    What are the options on what to buy .. ? Can I get different sized sprockets for more road
    riding ... ? Where's the best place to order this stuff online?

    You can run out of high gears with the standard MTB gearing of 22-32-44 on the front, and 11-28
    (8-speed) or 11/12-30(9-speed) on the back. I haven't seen any rear cassettes with a small cog
    smaller than 11 teeth, so you'd need to get bigger chainrings if your cassette is already
    11-something. Even if you do get a smaller small rear cog it won't make a huge difference.

    If you're just looking for the gear rations to be closer together, then a Shimano road cassette
    will just slip straight on the rear hub (after you've got the lockring off).

    The Shimano Deore chainset is available as 28-38-48, which is the sort of size you'd see on a
    hybrid bike. It's square taper only. You wouldn't want to be switching between that and a regular
    MTB chainset too often, as the front derailleur would need to be moved up the seat tube for the
    bigger chainrings and then setup accordingly.

    You may need to accept that you'll just need to freewheel downhill occasionally.

    The problem I have is that I am now flicking between the mid and high front sprocket, which involves
    dropping or jumping up two gears on the rear to match the current gear ratio. This happens to be
    around my medium fast speed, which I'm often at. So not really sure how to fix this problem. Top
    speed isn't an issue (I got 53mph down Ditchling Beacon the other week).

    Quoted message said:


    For MTB stuff, I usually buy from

    www.chainreactioncycles.com www.bikedock.co.uk www.merlin.co.uk www.wiggle.co.uk

    They vary slightly by what they tend to have in stock, and on price/delivery cost. I should add a
    recommendation for Merlins wheels, as it may be worth having a spare set if you switch between
    on/off road and want tyres that match.

    Thanks Mark, I only knew about Wiggle before, I'll take a look at the rest too.

  5. elyob said:

    The problem I have is that I am now flicking between the mid and


    high

    Quoted message said:

    front sprocket, which involves dropping or jumping up two gears on the rear to match the current
    gear ratio. This happens to be around my medium fast speed, which I'm often at. So not really
    sure how to fix this problem. Top speed isn't an issue (I got 53mph down Ditchling Beacon the
    other week).

    Sounds like you want closer ratios. A road rear cassett will be what you want. CR or wiggle will
    have them. You'll lose the really low ratios, but on the road they're no use anyway.

    --

    Regards,

    Mark Davies

  6. elyob said:

    The problem I have is that I am now flicking between the mid and high front sprocket, which
    involves dropping or jumping up two gears on the rear to match the current gear ratio. This
    happens to be around my medium fast speed, which I'm often at. So not really sure how to fix this
    problem. Top speed isn't an issue (I got 53mph down Ditchling Beacon the other week).

    Fitting a middle chainring just a couple of teeth bigger might just make the difference you need (or
    at least will help a bit). Alternatively, make the big ring smaller if you don't mind sacrificing
    your top speeds.

    A closer ratio cassette will also be better for road cycling in general. Needn't necessarily be a
    "road" one if you don't want to go that far (although any Shimano cassette will fit if it has the
    same number of sprockets). If you've got 11-34, an 11-30 would be a worthwhile improvement, IMO.

    ~PB

  7. Mark D said:

    I haven't seen any rear cassettes with a small cog smaller than 11 teeth, so you'd need to get
    bigger chainrings if your cassette is already 11-something. Even if you do get a smaller small
    rear cog it won't make a huge difference.

    FWIW, the new Shimano Capreo cassette is starting to dribble onto the market - this comes as
    standard as a 9-26. It's designed for small drive wheels and, IIRC, requires that one uses the
    matching hub chiz. The clever buggers at ICE are offering a modified one with a 9-32 range.

    Back in the days of old, AM series Moultons used to come with a modified (Regina?) freewheel on
    which the top three speeds were 9-10-11, and the NS Moulton now comes with a 10-32 9-speed cassette.

    Ritchey used to make a 10-tooth cog to replace the cassette lockring in order to turn an
    8-speed into a 9.

    Dave Larrington - legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uklegslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk
    ===========================================================
    Editor - British Human Power Club Newsletter
    bhpc.org.ukbhpc.org.uk
    ===========================================================

  8. "Pete Biggs" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    A closer ratio cassette will also be better for road cycling in general. Needn't necessarily be a
    "road" one if you don't want to go that far (although any Shimano cassette will fit if it has the
    same number of sprockets). If you've got 11-34, an 11-30 would be a worthwhile improvement, IMO.

    Does a short-cage rear-mech (say, Ultegra) have the capacity for a 11-30 (double chainring, 52/39)?
    Cuz I'm not getting the cadence on some hills from my 12-25, but don't want to go to the hassle of
    fittind 3-ring.

  9. Rory said:

    Does a short-cage rear-mech (say, Ultegra) have the capacity for a 11-30 (double
    chainring, 52/39)?

    Not according to Shimano but some lucky people report they've got that combo working. I would just
    get a Shimano MTB long cage mech (which are compatible with road STI's) - bound to be much better.

    A cheap model will work fine (just weight a bit more) if the cost puts you off.

    ~PB

  10. Rory said:

    Does a short-cage rear-mech (say, Ultegra) have the capacity for a 11-30 (double chainring,
    52/39)? Cuz I'm not getting the cadence on some hills from my 12-25, but don't want to go to the
    hassle of fittind 3-ring.

    According to Mr. Shimano:

    Short cage road derailleur: Max sprocket: 27T Min sprocket: 11T Front difference: 14T max. Total
    capacity: 29T Long cage road derailleur: Max sprocket: 27T Min sprocket: 11T Front difference: 22T
    max. Total capacity: 37T

    So they say not. Limiting factors are the total capacity - which may be OK if you take pains to
    avoid the extreme gears (small-small, large-large) and the maximum sprocket size - it may not work
    at all on a 30. I know the long cage versions work with a 28, but haven't tried bigger than that.

    HTH

    Dave Larrington - legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uklegslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk
    ===========================================================
    Editor - British Human Power Club Newsletter
    bhpc.org.ukbhpc.org.uk
    ===========================================================

  11. "Rory" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Does a short-cage rear-mech (say, Ultegra) have the capacity for a 11-30 (double chainring,
    52/39)? Cuz I'm not getting the cadence on some hills from my 12-25, but don't want to go to the
    hassle of fittind 3-ring.

    I "borrowed" an 11-32 cassette from my mtb and fitted to my Ultegra equipped road bike. The problem
    was not one of capacity (the ability to take up slack chain) but rather the fact the upper jockey
    wheel engaged any sprocket >27 teggies. I tried fiddling with the B screw but it didn't help so I
    then "borrowed" the XT rear mech from my mtb and fitted it to the road bike, et voila!, it all
    performed flawlessly under the control of the Ultegra shifters. (Not only is the cage longer on an
    mtb mech but the parralelogrammonomiums are too).

    I later restored both bikes to their former set-up, again without undue hassle dispelling the myth
    that 9 speeds are cantankarous to set up.

    As Pete Biggs has already stated if funds are limited a lower range mtb rear mech will work fine and
    be adequately durable, the cheapo on my winter hack has managed 7 crappy winters.

    Go to www.chainreactioncycles.com for excellent prices and service on mtb goodies (no commercial
    connection, 'onest Guv).

    Pete

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