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? Silca Presta pump head - techniques?

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Cycling Equipment
Published
22 February 2004
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1 March 2004
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Michael
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  1. How do you pump your tyres up using a Silca Track pump?

    Sounds ridiculous, I know.

    But I can't believe how much trouble I have using the pump *quickly*. If I tighten the pump head
    sufficiently to maintain a seal at 110 psi then I have all sorts of trouble unscrewing it once I've
    finished. I have experimented with different amounts of tightening, but if I tighten it any less
    then it won't maintain a seal. Surely it's not meant to be this difficult !?!

    Anyone got any tricks for avoiding fighting with their pump?

  2. In article <[email hidden]>,

    Michael said:

    How do you pump your tyres up using a Silca Track pump?

    Sounds ridiculous, I know.

    But I can't believe how much trouble I have using the pump *quickly*. If I tighten the pump head
    sufficiently to maintain a seal at 110 psi then I have all sorts of trouble unscrewing it once I've
    finished. I have experimented with different amounts of tightening, but if I tighten it any less
    then it won't maintain a seal. Surely it's not meant to be this difficult !?!

    Anyone got any tricks for avoiding fighting with their pump?

    As far as I know, Silca only made one good pump head, the #24 "bell" chuck, which is presta-only.
    From your description, I'm guessing you don't have it. I have tried some of their other creations
    and they all stink to some degree. Perhaps your local bike shop can order you the #24 head. In the
    US, biketoolsetc.com sells it for $5 (P/N SI-24) and the replacement gasket for $1 (P/N SI-24.1).
    The gasket can use replacement every year or two if you use it a lot.

    --Paul

  3. Michael who? said:

    How do you pump your tyres up using a Silca Track pump?

    Quoted message said:

    Sounds ridiculous, I know.

    Quoted message said:

    But I can't believe how much trouble I have using the pump *quickly*. If I tighten the pump head
    sufficiently to maintain a seal at 110 psi then I have all sorts of trouble unscrewing it once
    I've finished. I have experimented with different amounts of tightening, but if I tighten it any
    less then it won't maintain a seal. Surely it's not meant to be this difficult !?!

    cbike.compumps silca.htm

    If you have the valve chuck listed at the bottom of this page, you should have no trouble.
    Remember, always break the valve free after loosening the retaining nut on the valve plunger by
    letting out a tiny amount of air. If you don't do this, pressure buildup in the hose will exceed
    the gauge and ruin it.

    This valve chuck comes with a rubber gasket that can be replaced. Get some spares when you get he
    pump head.

    Jobst Brandt [email hidden]

  4. Michael said:

    But I can't believe how much trouble I have using the pump *quickly*. If I tighten the pump head
    sufficiently to maintain a seal at 110 psi then I have all sorts of trouble unscrewing it once
    I've finished. I have experimented with different amounts of tightening, but if I tighten it any
    less then it won't maintain a seal. Surely it's not meant to be this difficult !?!

    If you have the head without lever, it is disengaged by pulling sharply, not unscrewing. Quite some
    force is meant to be used.

    Try degreasing the washer (and valves) to make it grip better so it doesn't have to be so tight.

    ~PB

  5. In article <[email hidden]>,

    Quoted message said:

    cbike.compumps silca.htm If you have the valve chuck listed at the bottom of this page,
    you should have no trouble.

    Seconded, thirded, whatever. The reversible chuck that comes with some versions of the pump should
    be chucked.

    Quoted message said:

    This valve chuck comes with a rubber gasket that can be replaced. Get some spares when you get he
    pump head.

    The above-referenced web page mutters something about replacing the pump head "when needed,"
    implying that they wear out. They don't, of course, but the rubber gasket in the head can, though I
    suspect you have to pump a lot of tires for this to happen. I'm still on my first, after 4 years or
    so on the bell chuck (and 10 or 12 years on the pump.)
    --
    ---
    Eric Holeman Chicago Illinois USA

  6. Pete Biggs said:

    If you have the head without lever, it is disengaged by pulling sharply, not unscrewing. Quite some
    force is meant to be used.

    Push the chuck with both thumbs.

  7. At some point, even after listening to all the raves about Silca pumps, I dumped mine. I giant
    unpredictable pain forever. I like my Joe Blow Pro much better.

    [email hidden] (Michael) wrote in message
    news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    How do you pump your tyres up using a Silca Track pump?

    Sounds ridiculous, I know.

    But I can't believe how much trouble I have using the pump *quickly*. If I tighten the pump head
    sufficiently to maintain a seal at 110 psi then I have all sorts of trouble unscrewing it once
    I've finished. I have experimented with different amounts of tightening, but if I tighten it any
    less then it won't maintain a seal. Surely it's not meant to be this difficult !?!

    Anyone got any tricks for avoiding fighting with their pump?

  8. "Pete Biggs" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:


    If you have the head without lever, it is disengaged by pulling sharply, not unscrewing. Quite
    some force is meant to be used.

    Well I didn't realise that!

    Is that really the case? I don't want to sound too skeptical (I have taken on board lots of your
    advice in the past) but wouldn't pulling the rubber across the thread on the valve stem destroy the
    gasket pretty quickly?

    Having said that it is the method I have resorted to the past few times ;-)

    Can anyone else confirm this is the method they employ?

    Thanks everyone for their responses. Suppose I'll just keep ripping the head off. And try degreasing
    my valve stems as well (as per another poster's advice).

  9. [email hidden] (eflayer2) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    At some point, even after listening to all the raves about Silca pumps, I dumped mine. I giant
    unpredictable pain forever. I like my Joe Blow Pro much better.

    Ah, one more person who realizes that the emperor has no clothes.

    [censored] Durbin

  10. Michael who? said:
    Quoted message said:

    If you have the head without lever, it is disengaged by pulling sharply, not unscrewing. Quite
    some force is meant to be used.

    Quoted message said:

    Well I didn't realise that!

    Quoted message said:

    Is that really the case? I don't want to sound too skeptical (I have taken on board lots of your
    advice in the past) but wouldn't pulling the rubber across the thread on the valve stem destroy
    the gasket pretty quickly?

    That's the way it works except that you don't screw the grommet cover on any tighter than is
    necessary for it to hold air. As the rubber wears, and it does that mighty slowly, you can tighten
    the cap as needed. I modified my pump head to have a pressure release so that it can be pulled off
    with no pressure. This makes it a tiny bit easier on the rubber. My pump head grommet is about 10
    years old and I have spares waiting for their turn.

    Jobst Brandt [email hidden]

  11. In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:

    I modified my pump head to have a pressure release so that it can be pulled off with no pressure.
    This makes it a tiny bit easier on the rubber.

    Jobst, could you provide more detail on this? I'm intrigued.

    It seems like the hole in the new grommet must be the same size it has been since the days of smooth-
    sided valve stems. Nowadays valve stems are almost all threaded, and slightly fatter to boot, so the
    chuck and stem are locked in a death grip when the tire's inflated. I've lost track of how many
    tubes I've ruined trying to push the chuck off the valve stem when it's under pressure. I ream out
    the grommet with a tapered hand reamer, and that helps some, but it sounds like your solution would
    be preferable.

    Jeff Travis

  12. Jeffrey W. Travis said:
    Quoted message said:

    I modified my pump head to have a pressure release so that it can be pulled off with no pressure.
    This makes it a tiny bit easier on the rubber.

    Quoted message said:

    Jobst, could you provide more detail on this? I'm intrigued.

    Quoted message said:

    It seems like the hole in the new grommet must be the same size it has been since the days of smooth-
    sided valve stems. Nowadays valve stems are almost all threaded, and slightly fatter to boot, so
    the chuck and stem are locked in a death grip when the tire's inflated.

    Huh? When did we have smooth valve stems? I've been using tubes with Presta valves a long time now
    and only the oddest French tubes (that I avoided) had smooth stems.

    Quoted message said:

    I've lost track of how many tubes I've ruined trying to push the chuck off the valve stem when
    it's under pressure. I ream out the grommet with a tapered hand reamer, and that helps some, but
    it sounds like your solution would be preferable.

    What's this "push the chuck" action. These are easily pulled off with a small tug. That's what the
    knurling around the body of the chuck is for. How can you ruin a valve stem that way? I get the
    impression we aren't talking about the same pump head and valve stems.

    cbike.compumps silca.htm

    Bottom of the page.

    Jobst Brandt [email hidden]

  13. Michael said:
    Quoted message said:

    If you have the head without lever, it is disengaged by pulling sharply, not unscrewing. Quite
    some force is meant to be used.

    Well I didn't realise that!

    Is that really the case?

    I believe so. That's really the main advantage of using this head - it's quick to use.

    Quoted message said:

    wouldn't pulling the rubber across the thread on the valve stem destroy the gasket pretty quickly?

    Not that quickly. However, despite readjustement and replacement gasket, I got fed up with my Silca
    head leaking and sometimes being too loose, sometimes too tight (valves seem to vary slightly) so I
    replaced it with a Topeak Smarthead (with hose). The stiff lever makes it slower to put on & off but
    it's totally reliable. Ironically, I thought of the degreasing* trick just after I had agreed to
    give the Silca away. It then worked better than ever. Doh!

    * rinse in biodegradable chain cleaner

    ~PB

  14. Michelin Aircomp UL 700-23 have smooth valve stems, the only tubes I use. The Silca Presta pump head
    does glide on easier. -tom

    <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    Huh? When did we have smooth valve stems? I've been using tubes with Presta valves a long time now
    and only the oddest French tubes (that I avoided) had smooth stems.

  15. "Tom Nakashima" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    Michelin Aircomp UL 700-23 have smooth valve stems, the only tubes I use. The Silca Presta pump
    head does glide on easier. -tom

    <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    Huh? When did we have smooth valve stems? I've been using tubes with Presta valves a long time
    now and only the oddest French tubes (that I avoided) had smooth stems.

    Dear Tom,

    Here's the best picture that I could find of your smooth valve stems:

    xxcycle.comshop.pl

    It looks as if the smooth valve stems are shown on the box, too, but I found no internet pictures
    big enough to make it clear.

    ***

    My, that's an odd color (says a fellow whose black tubes contain green Slime sealant):

    cycleus.webmichelin.comtubeaircomp.htm

    Even the Michelin site above doesn't mention the smooth valve stems or why they're used. Is there
    any advantage, other than not tearing at pump seals?

    ***

    The first review in the link below even complains about the unthreaded valve stems, confirming your
    description:

    mtbreview.comproduct 80181.shtml

    Out of curiosity, what do you like and dislike about these tubes, apart from their green color?

    Carl Fogel

  16. i second that. their easier action & better seal for the valve head is the reason i use michelins
    exclusively. great tubes.

    Tom Nakashima said:

    Michelin Aircomp UL 700-23 have smooth valve stems, the only tubes I use. The Silca Presta pump
    head does glide on easier. -tom

    <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Huh? When did we have smooth valve stems? I've been using tubes with Presta valves a long time now
    and only the oddest French tubes (that I avoided) had smooth stems.


  17. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by Jobst Brandt

    BJeffrey W. Travis said:
    Quoted message said:

    I modified my pump head to have a pressure release so that it can be pulled off with no pressure.
    This makes it a tiny bit easier on the rubber.

    Quoted message said:

    Jobst, could you provide more detail on this? I'm intrigued.

    Quoted message said:

    It seems like the hole in the new grommet must be the same size it has been since the days of smooth-
    sided valve stems. Nowadays valve stems are almost all threaded, and slightly fatter to boot, so
    the chuck and stem are locked in a death grip when the tire's inflated.

    Huh? When did we have smooth valve stems? I've been using tubes with Presta valves a long time now
    and only the oddest French tubes (that I avoided) had smooth stems.

    Quoted message said:

    I've lost track of how many tubes I've ruined trying to push the chuck off the valve stem when
    it's under pressure. I ream out the grommet with a tapered hand reamer, and that helps some, but
    it sounds like your solution would be preferable.

    What's this "push the chuck" action. These are easily pulled off with a small tug. That's what the
    knurling around the body of the chuck is for. How can you ruin a valve stem that way? I get the
    impression we aren't talking about the same pump head and valve stems.

    cbike.compumps silca.htm

    Bottom of the page.

    Jobst Brandt [email hidden] [/B]


    I love the security and adjustability of the Silca Presta Chuck.
    I use it as my Schrader to Presta adapter. I gave up on the Silca pump due it's guage and internal workings.
    I use a Zefal Husky floor pump with the Schrader head.
    To inflate I open the Presta nut, release some of the built-up back pressure on the valve, securely push the Silca head on the valve, clip the Zefal Hushky head on the exposed end of the Silca head, inflate to desired pressure, unclip the Zefal head from the Silca, and slide the Silca head from the valve.
    It may sound more complicated than it is in reality. I have very positive results with this method. I have replaced only one rubber Silca head "washer" in over 12 years of use.

  18. In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:
    Jeffrey W. Travis said:
    Quoted message said:

    I modified my pump head to have a pressure release so that it can be pulled off with no
    pressure. This makes it a tiny bit easier on the rubber.

    Quoted message said:

    Jobst, could you provide more detail on this? I'm intrigued.

    Quoted message said:

    It seems like the hole in the new grommet must be the same size it has been since the days of
    smooth-sided valve stems. Nowadays valve stems are almost all threaded, and slightly fatter to
    boot, so the chuck and stem are locked in a death grip when the tire's inflated.

    Huh? When did we have smooth valve stems? I've been using tubes with Presta valves a long time now
    and only the oddest French tubes (that I avoided) had smooth stems.

    Many tubulars used to have smooth stems, for one thing.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I've lost track of how many tubes I've ruined trying to push the chuck off the valve stem when
    it's under pressure. I ream out the grommet with a tapered hand reamer, and that helps some, but
    it sounds like your solution would be preferable.

    What's this "push the chuck" action. These are easily pulled off with a small tug. That's what the
    knurling around the body of the chuck is for. How can you ruin a valve stem that way?

    Not ruin the valve stem, but partially ripping it out from the tube. So the tube is ruined.

    The grip of the chuck on threaded valve stems is too tight to pull it off after the tube has been
    brought up to pressure. The only way I can get it off is to push really hard with both thumbs on the
    end of the bell. Do this enough times and eventually the valve stem partially tears out of the tube.

    Quoted message said:

    I get the impression we aren't talking about the same pump head and valve stems.

    We are. I can't think of a better way to describe it.

    Nonetheless, the motivation for my original post was to see if you would be willing to provide
    further details of your pump head modification for pressure release that you mentioned earlier.

    Thanks,

    Jeff

  19. Jeff Travis said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > I modified my pump head to have a pressure release so that it can be pulled off with no
    > pressure. This makes it a tiny bit easier on the rubber.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Jobst, could you provide more detail on this? I'm intrigued.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    It seems like the hole in the new grommet must be the same size it has been since the days of
    smooth-sided valve stems. Nowadays valve stems are almost all threaded, and slightly fatter to
    boot, so the chuck and stem are locked in a death grip when the tire's inflated.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Huh? When did we have smooth valve stems? I've been using tubes with Presta valves a long time
    now and only the oddest French tubes (that I avoided) had smooth stems.

    Quoted message said:

    Many tubulars used to have smooth stems, for one thing.

    I rode tubulars for a long time, none which had glued in stems, and therefore, had threaded shafts,
    necessary to clamp a latex, light weight tube onto the stem (or the converse). Only slugs had smooth
    stems. As it happens, these stems can be used to fix a butyl tube whose stem separates. I always
    carry on in my patch kit.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I've lost track of how many tubes I've ruined trying to push the chuck off the valve stem when
    it's under pressure. I ream out the grommet with a tapered hand reamer, and that helps some, but
    it sounds like your solution would be preferable.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    What's this "push the chuck" action. These are easily pulled off with a small tug. That's what
    the knurling around the body of the chuck is for. How can you ruin a valve stem that way?

    Quoted message said:

    Not ruin the valve stem, but partially ripping it out from the tube. So the tube is ruined.

    As I said, there is something I don't see here. I've been pulling my Silca pump head off stems
    for many years now and have never had a failure. None of the riders who use my pump have had
    any problems.

    Quoted message said:

    The grip of the chuck on threaded valve stems is too tight to pull it off after the tube has been
    brought up to pressure. The only way I can get it off is to push really hard with both thumbs on
    the end of the bell. Do this enough times and eventually the valve stem partially tears out of
    the tube.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I get the impression we aren't talking about the same pump head and valve stems.

    Quoted message said:

    We are. I can't think of a better way to describe it.

    Quoted message said:

    Nonetheless, the motivation for my original post was to see if you would be willing to provide
    further details of your pump head modification for pressure release that you mentioned earlier.

    Well there is a problem there. Silca used to have a pump head that was a bit larger in body so I
    bored a hole in the side and faced the inside to be flat instead of curved. By putting a brass push
    button with a half depth O-ring groove in its mushroom stem. I have a release button on the side of
    the chuck. The thing is designed to have a minimal stroke of about 1mm. The O-ring groove is almost
    at the end of the button stem.

    I'm sure I could come up with another way of doing this with the current Silca pump chuck. I have
    more than one pump and only my usual one has this feature.

    I did this to reduce wear on the grommet but it also eases removal so that the chuck comes off as
    easy as it goes on. If you have a gauge on your pump, be sure to free up the valve before putting
    the chuck on and pumping because otherwise the gauge will be ruined as pressure goes over 200psi at
    the stuck valve. I have a few such gauges lying around from dorks who used the pump.

    Jobst Brandt [email hidden]

  20. Quoted message said:

    "Tom Nakashima" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    Michelin Aircomp UL 700-23 have smooth valve stems, the only tubes I use. The Silca Presta pump
    head does glide on easier.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Huh? When did we have smooth valve stems? I've been using tubes with Presta valves a long time
    now and only the oddest French tubes (that I avoided) had smooth stems.

    Carl Fogel said:

    Here's the best picture that I could find of your smooth valve stems: xxcycle.comcgi
    bin/shop.pl?SCREEN=detail&REF=2417 It looks as if the smooth valve stems are shown on the box,
    too, but I found no internet pictures big enough to make it clear.


    -snip-

    Quoted message said:

    cycleus.webmichelin.comtubeaircomp.htm Even the Michelin site above doesn't mention
    the smooth valve stems or why they're used. Is there any advantage, other than not tearing at
    pump seals? The first review in the link below even complains about the unthreaded valve stems,
    confirming your description: mtbreview.comproduct 80181.shtml


    -snip-

    Here is a page of valves, including smooth Michelin presta valve stems. You can click through to a
    high resolution image to see detail. yellowjersey.orgnuvalve.html

    And since the valve rings are vestigal ( except maybe for mountain bikes with fat tires) I wouldn't
    ask "why smooth valves" so much as "why not".

    If you are experiencing valve threads "tearing at pump seals", loosen the cap. It needn't be
    that tight.
    --
    Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971

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