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RH or LH thread?

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UK and Europe
Published
2 May 2008
Last activity
6 May 2008
Original author
Weatherlawyer
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  1. Which way is the thread on the housing? for the pedal axle on the
    chain wheel side of the bike?

    I can't seem to budge the damn thing in either direction. I think I'm
    going to need a new axle. Or would I be better off looking for a
    cheapo replacement for the whole bike?

  2. Weatherlawyer <[email hidden]>typed

    Quoted message said:

    Which way is the thread on the housing? for the pedal axle on the
    chain wheel side of the bike?

    Quoted message said:

    I can't seem to budge the damn thing in either direction. I think I'm
    going to need a new axle. Or would I be better off looking for a
    cheapo replacement for the whole bike?

    The chainwheel side is the right side.
    The right pedal has a 'normal' (RH) thread.

    Try penetrating oil, a bit of heat and a long strong 15mm spanner
    (applied anti-clockwise) to free a seized pedal.

    Good luck!

    --
    Helen D. Vecht: [email hidden]
    Edgware.

  3. "Weatherlawyer" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Which way is the thread on the housing? for the pedal axle on the
    chain wheel side of the bike?

    I can't seem to budge the damn thing in either direction. I think I'm
    going to need a new axle. Or would I be better off looking for a
    cheapo replacement for the whole bike?

    £12 got a me a new crank the other day at Paul's Cycles after a mate's
    square taper had gone non-square. Sheldon brown will tell you which way the
    thread goes.

  4. Weatherlawyer said:

    Which way is the thread on the housing? for the pedal axle on the
    chain wheel side of the bike?

    I can't seem to budge the damn thing in either direction. I think I'm
    going to need a new axle. Or would I be better off looking for a
    cheapo replacement for the whole bike?

    Thanks both. I haven't messed with a cycle in yonks, I vaguely
    remembered there being on thread going the wrong way. Maybe it's car
    wheel-nuts?

    So there is nothing welded or screwed in to hold it?

    I imagine I will have to replace both cups as well as the ball cages
    and axle. There again it's only a £15 junker I got from a Sunday
    market. I may just replace the bearings and forget about it.

  5. Weatherlawyer said:
    Weatherlawyer said:

    Which way is the thread on the housing? for the pedal axle on the
    chain wheel side of the bike?

    I can't seem to budge the damn thing in either direction. I think I'm
    going to need a new axle. Or would I be better off looking for a
    cheapo replacement for the whole bike?

    Thanks both. I haven't messed with a cycle in yonks, I vaguely
    remembered there being on thread going the wrong way. Maybe it's car
    wheel-nuts?

    The left pedal has a left-hand thread (unscrews clockwise).

    Quoted message said:

    So there is nothing welded or screwed in to hold it?

    The pedal is just screwed into the crank.

    ~PB

  6. Pete Biggs said:
    Weatherlawyer said:
    Weatherlawyer said:

    Which way is the thread on the housing? for the pedal axle on the
    chain wheel side of the bike?

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I can't seem to budge the damn thing in either direction. I think I'm
    going to need a new axle. Or would I be better off looking for a
    cheapo replacement for the whole bike?

    Quoted message said:

    Thanks both. I haven't messed with a cycle in yonks, I vaguely
    remembered there being on thread going the wrong way. Maybe it's car
    wheel-nuts?

    The left pedal has a left-hand thread (unscrews clockwise).

    Quoted message said:

    So there is nothing welded or screwed in to hold it?

    The pedal is just screwed into the crank.

    Sorry, my terminology went west with my age. Crank arm not pedal. Its
    the axle on the crank that has pitted. Not too bad but since I have
    it stripped....

  7. Weatherlawyer said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    So there is nothing welded or screwed in to hold it?

    The pedal is just screwed into the crank.

    Sorry, my terminology went west with my age. Crank arm not pedal. Its
    the axle on the crank that has pitted. Not too bad but since I have
    it stripped....

    I guess you mean the bottom bracket? .... http://tinyurl.com/5kho77
    (Google Images)

    If so, you could just replace the whole BB for one with maintenance-free
    cartridge bearings (like most decent BBs have nowdays). This need be no
    more expensive than replacing parts of the existing BB.

    There are special tools to remove & fit BBs (and different ones for
    different makes/models), though sometimes you can bodge the classic type
    without.

    For a British standard BB, opposite to pedals, the right side has a
    left-hand thread, and the left side a right-hand thread. See
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html - scroll down to "Bottom
    bracket".

    ~PB

  8. In article <cd96dcf8-413b-426f-9871-cfbdf56c7ba6
    @e39g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>, Weatherlawyer
    [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:

    Which way is the thread on the housing? for the pedal axle on the
    chain wheel side of the bike?

    I can't seem to budge the damn thing in either direction. I think I'm
    going to need a new axle. Or would I be better off looking for a
    cheapo replacement for the whole bike?


    Do you mean the bottom bracket (i.e. the crank axle that goes through
    the frame)? If so that's (in the vast majority of cases) a LH thread on
    the drive side, RH thread on the other side. Pedals are the other way
    around - RH pedal RH thread, LH pedal LH thread.
    If it's a steel bearing cup with flats on the outside then one way to
    remove it is to grip the flats firmly in a large vice and use the frame
    as a lever. Another method is to weld a large nut to the cup - that
    gives you something easy to grip and the heat tends to free things up.

  9. Weatherlawyer said:

    Which way is the thread on the housing? for the pedal axle on the
    chain wheel side of the bike?

    I can't seem to budge the damn thing in either direction. I think I'm
    going to need a new axle. Or would I be better off looking for a
    cheapo replacement for the whole bike?


    To unscrew, the spanner, assuming it is held above the pedal, always
    goes towards the back of the bike, for either side. If it does come
    unscrewed on the crank side, be very careful you don't punch your hand
    down the chainwheel. I still have the scars.
    pete

  10. Peter Grange said:

    On Fri, 2 May 2008 11:16:41 -0700 (PDT), Weatherlawyer

    Quoted message said:

    Which way is the thread on the housing? for the pedal axle on the
    chain wheel side of the bike?

    Quoted message said:

    I can't seem to budge the damn thing in either direction. I think I'm
    going to need a new axle. Or would I be better off looking for a
    cheapo replacement for the whole bike?

    To unscrew, the spanner, assuming it is held above the pedal, always
    goes towards the back of the bike, for either side. If it does come
    unscrewed on the crank side, be very careful you don't punch your hand
    down the chain wheel. I still have the scars.

    Once again thanks for the posts everyone.

    I just cleaned the ball bearings (the drive side cage broke) and there
    are a couple with faces ground down to 3/4 spheres so I am pretty sure
    the cup needs to come off. I'll just cobble it back together for now
    as I don't have the tools or the space to do a repair/replacement.

    Anathema to some perhaps but I will cope until I get back in the
    frame.

    Thanks again.
    Mike.

  11. Weatherlawyer said:


    It's been so long since I was on a bike I am not looking forward to
    it. I only bought the thing on the spur of the moment as it was so
    cheap.

    It turned out to have a tube stuck down the seat stem, probably a
    piece of conduit or something. I can't imagine why. But I couldn't get
    it out so I left it in until it occurred to me to take the axle out
    and knock it down.

    Now I need a new axle and the brakes want sorting. I used to enjoy
    this sort of thing once but I can still remember the last time I got
    on a bike after several years.

    I bet it will all be worth it, and you will enjoy that ride!

    ~PB

  12. Weatherlawyer said:

    I just cleaned the ball bearings (the drive side cage broke) and there
    are a couple with faces ground down to 3/4 spheres so I am pretty sure
    the cup needs to come off. I'll just cobble it back together for now
    as I don't have the tools or the space to do a repair/replacement.

    The cups probably do need replacing, but the bike should be rideable
    meanwhile if you just fit new balls and grease. You may need to leave some
    play in the bearings to allow them to turn freely enough, though they don't
    need to feel super-smooth when turning the axle by hand.

    Cages are just for convenience. In fact it's better not to use them in
    order to fit more balls, which allows load to be spread more evenly.

    The bike might be worth doing up properly if the frame and wheels are good.
    Otherwise I would just do the minimum to get it safely rideable, have a bit
    of fun with it, then replace the whole bike.

    ~PB

  13. In article <addaabc3-705d-4368-b830-
    [email hidden]>, Weatherlawyer
    [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:

    I just cleaned the ball bearings (the drive side cage broke) and there
    are a couple with faces ground down to 3/4 spheres so I am pretty sure
    the cup needs to come off. I'll just cobble it back together for now
    as I don't have the tools or the space to do a repair/replacement.

    Use loose balls instead of clipped ones - you'll get a couple more in
    which spreads the load better, and there's no clip to fail and jam
    things up.

    Quoted message said:

    Anathema to some perhaps but I will cope until I get back in the
    frame.


    If you can get it to go around without much slack/crunching/knocking
    it's good enough, as long as the cup isn't so knackered that it's
    splitting and damaging the frame. It's possibly that the cup isn't too
    bad - the ball clips are a lot softer than the bearing surfaces, and the
    bearings are likely to have fractured rather than ground down (although
    the resulting shrapnel probably didn't do anything much good).

  14. Pete Biggs said:
    Weatherlawyer said:

    It's been so long since I was on a bike I am not looking forward to
    it. I only bought the thing on the spur of the moment as it was so
    cheap.

    Quoted message said:

    It turned out to have a tube stuck down the seat stem, probably a
    piece of conduit or something. I can't imagine why. But I couldn't get
    it out so I left it in until it occurred to me to take the axle out
    and knock it down.

    Quoted message said:

    Now I need a new axle and the brakes want sorting. I used to enjoy
    this sort of thing once but I can still remember the last time I got
    on a bike after several years.

    I bet it will all be worth it, and you will enjoy that ride!

    I bet it will break my [censored] for a week like it did before.

  15. Rob Morley said:

    In article <cd96dcf8-413b-426f-9871-cfbdf56c7ba6
    @e39g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>, Weatherlawyer
    [email hidden] says...> Which way is the thread on the housing? for the pedal axle on the

    Quoted message said:

    chain wheel side of the bike?

    Quoted message said:

    I can't seem to budge the damn thing in either direction. I think I'm
    going to need a new axle. Or would I be better off looking for a
    cheapo replacement for the whole bike?

    Do you mean the bottom bracket (i.e. the crank axle that goes through
    the frame)? If so that's (in the vast majority of cases) a LH thread on
    the drive side, RH thread on the other side. Pedals are the other way
    around - RH pedal RH thread, LH pedal LH thread.
    If it's a steel bearing cup with flats on the outside then one way to
    remove it is to grip the flats firmly in a large vice and use the frame
    as a lever. Another method is to weld a large nut to the cup - that
    gives you something easy to grip and the heat tends to free things up.

    I got it off with a mole grips thanks. It has a lovely little recess
    carved into it. That should make fitting ball bearings easier.

  16. Weatherlawyer said:
    Pete Biggs said:
    Weatherlawyer said:

    It's been so long since I was on a bike I am not looking forward to
    it. I only bought the thing on the spur of the moment as it was so
    cheap.

    Quoted message said:

    It turned out to have a tube stuck down the seat stem, probably a
    piece of conduit or something. I can't imagine why. But I couldn't
    get it out so I left it in until it occurred to me to take the axle
    out and knock it down.

    Quoted message said:

    Now I need a new axle and the brakes want sorting. I used to enjoy
    this sort of thing once but I can still remember the last time I got
    on a bike after several years.

    I bet it will all be worth it, and you will enjoy that ride!

    I bet it will break my [censored] for a week like it did before.

    It will.

  17. Doki said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > Now I need a new axle and the brakes want sorting. I used to enjoy
    > this sort of thing once but I can still remember the last time I
    > got on a bike after several years.

    I bet it will all be worth it, and you will enjoy that ride!

    I bet it will break my [censored] for a week like it did before.

    It will.

    Nothing like a bit of optimistic encouragement. Yes, that was nothing like
    it, Doki.

    ~PB

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