Re: KH 2005 trials, might have problem?

did you tighten the spokes when you received the uni? sometimes they
are not tight when shipped. even if they were tight when shipped, they
may have gotten loose from riding.

--
muniracer - Hell On Wheel

The Hell on Wheel Unicycle Gang owns you!!

http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/albuq25
------------------------------------------------------------------------
muniracer's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/4339
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/37534

Man, that's a real drag. One of the riders at our club (Carl) just got
a new KH24 muni which is exhibiting the same symptoms. Over the course
of probably just a 1/2 hour of riding it gradually started to 'click'
like crazy.

Although it was more of a 'click' than a 'creak' the symptoms seemed
very similar to the classic profile creak problem. If not it at least
seems like something in the crank/hub interface. Switching between
regular hopping and switch hopping it seemed to be worse as the cranks
'settled'.

Hopefully Kris, or someone else 'in the know', can shed more insight.

If it were mine I'd take the cranks off and see how it all fits together
anyway. Since it is a splined interface trying the profile creak
solution (lube all the surfaces good to prevent dry metal on metal
movement) might be worth a shot.

J

--
Jason Allemann - It's Go Time
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jason Allemann's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/3702
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/37534

It doesnt make a clicking noise, and it doesnt make a noise when i ride,
only when I hop. I can make the same noise by holding the unicycle and
boucning it on the ground at an angle.

--
siafirede - straight edge in your face
------------------------------------------------------------------------
siafirede's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/6057
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/37534

It's probably the sound of the welds breaking on the frame.

--
TheObieOne3226 - Owns you, SWAT does, mmmm

'SWAT Gallery' (http://gallery.unicyclist.com/SWAT)
'SWAT webpage' (singlewheeledattackteam.1hwy.com)

AIM/ICQ:TheObieOne3226
Yahoo:TheObieOne3226
MSN:[email hidden]

disclaimer: the above message was not intended to offend anyone. if you
are offended i can take no responsibility for my actions because i don't
feel like it. also you are reading an internet newsgroup where not
everyone will share your same views and beliefs, be able to take
criticism and post/read threads at your own risk.

Nick, Joe, Tim, Jim, Nick, Eric, Trip, Mike, Bevan, Sabin, Owen, Jagur,
Brian, Michael, Pete, Evan, Andrew, Justin, Kyle, Dave, Kevin, and Laura
are my main man.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
TheObieOne3226's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/4851
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/37534

TheObieOne3226 said:

*It's probably the sound of the welds breaking on the frame. *

ahahahahahha! dude, you have such good come backs!!!

i am glad i didnt get a KH its proly somethink like last years models.
all the more reason to get profile.

--
total uni - posting is good for the soul!

Trials is the devil - jack huges
------------------------------------------------------------------------
total uni's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/8125
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/37534

total uni said:

*i am glad i didnt get a KH its proly somethink like last years
models. all the more reason to get profile. *

Don't you mean "I'm glad someone else didn't buy me a KH"? You're pretty
much on "parental welfare" as far as I can tell, at least until the big
bucks start rolling in from all your advanced frame-building projects.

Do you really have any experience with the KH frames to be able to say
what you're saying, or are you just a bored kid typing any fool thing
that comes into your head and clicking Submit for the heck of it?

BTW, that was a rhetorical question. Look it up.

--
Rutabaga - Calling any vegetable...
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rutabaga's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/5546
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/37534

Things to check:

Have the spokes checked. Loose or slightly loose spokes will rub
against each other and cause a creaking noise. A bike shop can tension
and then stress relieve all the spokes to stop the spoke noise.

Put grease, anti-seize, or Loctite on all metal to metal surfaces. A
threads should be either greased, anti-seized or Loctited.

Loctite the nuts under the seat to keep them from vibrating loose.

Loctite or grease the threads of the bearing cap bolts. Loctite will
keep these bolts from vibrating loose as you ride. Grease is also
effective but you'll have to check the tightness of these bolts on a
regular basis.

Put a thin coat of grease on the seatpost before putting the seatpost in
the frame. Put a thin coating of grease between the frame and the
seatpost clamp. Put a little grease on the threads of the bolt that
tightens the seatpost clamp.

Remove the cranks and put anti-seize on the splines. Put anti-seize on
the crank bolt threads.

Put grease on the pedal threads.

Make sure everything is tight.

That will get rid of the common sources of noises

--
john_childs - Guinness Mojo

john_childs (at) hotmail (dot) com
Gallery: '' (http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/john_childs)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
john_childs's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/449
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/37534

I removed the seatpost/seat, and sort of hit tire on the ground at an
angle and i still get the noise. The spokes seem tight, and it isnt
that kind of noise, it is more of a clang. The cranks are definitely on
tight. The only thing I have not done yet is remove the cranks and put
anti-seize on the splines, mainly because I do not have any experience
with splines. Would a bike shop have anti-seize, and would they be able
to help me out? If this does not solve the problem, is there anything
else that could make the clanging noise? Hopefully I can record the
sound tomorrow with something.

--
siafirede - straight edge in your face
------------------------------------------------------------------------
siafirede's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/6057
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/37534

I got my KH2005 trials today; took it out for a bit. I started to get a
lot of noise on hopping and strong pedaling pressures (steep angle
recovery, deliberately fast idling, etc). I don't have any experience
with wheel building or spoke maintenance, but to me it sounds like
spokes just rubbing together. I'm taking it to the local bike shop
tomorrow to get them to tension everything properly. I'll report back
if that fixes it for me.

JC: I'll run through your laundry list of items to check, too. That's
great information. Where does one find anti-sieze for purchase, anyway
(and are there particular brands to opt for)?

--
mandarin - Arizona MUni

Matthew Wegner
------------------------------------------------------------------------
mandarin's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/7948
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/37534

Oh, also--what's the best Loctite for common threads (seat bolts,
bearing cap holders, etc)? Blue? Red? Does it even matter?

--
mandarin - Arizona MUni

Matthew Wegner
------------------------------------------------------------------------
mandarin's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/7948
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/37534

Creaking or clicking noises in bicycles or unicycles can be very
difficult to track down. The noise travels in the tubes of the frame
and is amplified by the tubes in the frame. This is especially true of
aluminum frames. You'll hear the noise in one area yet the cause of the
noise is somewhere else. It can be tricky to find the source. It can
be an acoustical allusion.

The strategy is usually a process of elimination. Clean and grease the
likely places to cause a noise and keep on going until you fix the
source of the noise.

It could be the pedals. If you bang the unicycle on the ground like you
describe the pedals are going to get a vibration jolt. They could
certainly rattle on the pedal spindle. Nothing really wrong with that.
Try banging the unicycle on the ground without the pedals.

With a new frame there is also the issue of paint. There may be a fleck
of paint rubbing against a thread or something. The paint will also
need to be compressed where it is squeezed (for example under the
seatpost clamp). The compression of new paint can cause some noise.
That source of noise will go away as the paint wears.

You can get anti-seize at an auto parts store. You only need a little
bit. Even just an ounce or two will last you for many years. Don't buy
more than a 4 ounce jar. Bike shops should also have anti-seize for use
in their repair department. You may also be able to buy 'Finishline
Ti-Prep' (http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/ti-prep.htm) which is
anti-seize in a convenient syringe but sold at bike stores so it costs
more than twice as much as the anti-seize you can get at an auto parts
store. But that syringe is convenient and that 15 grams of anti-seize
will be enough for several years of reapplication on a single unicycle.

--
john_childs - Guinness Mojo

john_childs (at) hotmail (dot) com
Gallery: '' (http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/john_childs)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
john_childs's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/449
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/37534

Hey,
shure is a bummer paying so much for a uni and it may have problems.

There isnt much to splines, just unscrew the bolts, and the cranks
should slide off no problem.

The only suggestion I can give is, taking the cranks and spacers /
washers and what not off (remember what order the crank, spacers/washers
were in), and do the angle hitting thing you do.

If the noise is gone it will be the pedals , crank or hub. Take the
pedals off, and put the cranks back on with antiseize, and tighten.
and bang it again.

if the noise is still there take the frame, and bearings off, and bang
it again.

and that way you can hopefully eliminate, what it isnt, and find out
exactly what it is.

When you put it back together remember to lightly coat the splines and
threads with grease, copperslip, or antiseize

Hope you come right, and hope the problem is nothing serious (like maybe
just the pedal or somthin)

Shaun

--
smdO2 - UniT is One
------------------------------------------------------------------------
smdO2's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/7369
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/37534

mandarin said:

*Oh, also--what's the best Loctite for common threads (seat bolts,
bearing cap holders, etc)? Blue? Red? Does it even matter? *

It doesn't really matter for most of the nuts and bolts. The blue will
hold well enough. Use what you have on hand. You should probably avoid
the high strength Red stuff on nuts or bolts that may be difficult to
get undone if it is Loctited really good. Especially if you might end
up stripping or damaging something trying to force it undone. The nuts
under some seats would be an example on seats that are known to have the
free spinning bolt problem.

--
john_childs - Guinness Mojo

john_childs (at) hotmail (dot) com
Gallery: '' (http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/john_childs)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
john_childs's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/449
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/37534

I just tried removing the pedals and the noise is still there. I will
remove the cranks tomorrow. After I get the bolt out of the crank, do I
remove the crank with a crank puller?

--
siafirede - straight edge in your face
------------------------------------------------------------------------
siafirede's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/6057
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/37534

siafirede said:

*I just tried removing the pedals and the noise is still there. I
will remove the cranks tomorrow. After I get the bolt out of the
crank, do I remove the crank with a crank puller? *

I'm not sure about the new KH cranks. I assume their removal is very
similar to removing a Profile crank. Here's a thread that shows how to
use the Evercraft bearing puller to remove a Profile crank: 'Profile
maintenance' (http://tinyurl.com/3645). It may be difficult to remove
the cranks when they're new. I had a difficult time removing my Profile
cranks when they were new. Now that my Profile cranks have been used
they are much easier to remove and I can remove them by hand with no
tools.

--
john_childs - Guinness Mojo

john_childs (at) hotmail (dot) com
Gallery: '' (http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/john_childs)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
john_childs's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/449
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/37534

You haven't mentioned checking bearing holders yet. If you have, then
I've no idea because I have no splined unis, but I've had plenty of
random slightly clunky noises from insufficiently tightened bearing
caps. They shouldn't be overtightened, but that seems to lead to lots of
them not being tight enough.

john

--
johnhimsworth - Nullus Anxietas

What if the hokey cokey really is what it's all about?
------------------------------------------------------------------------
johnhimsworth's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/1788
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/37534

From John Childs' first post in this thread. All words other than
Loctite, grease, and anti-seize have been removed:

john_childs said:

*grease, anti-seize, Loctite greased, anti-seized Loctited.

Loctite

Loctite grease. Loctite. Grease

grease grease grease.

anti-seize. anti-seize.

grease. *

Dude, if Loctite is not sponsoring you, they're missing out on a good
thing. One of these days I'm going to have to try some of that on my own
MUni. If my Wilder makes any other noises besides the typical Profile
creaking, I can't hear them over that... 🙂

--
johnfoss - Walkin' on the edge

John Foss, the Uni-Cyclone
"jfoss" at "unicycling.com" -- www.unicycling.com

"Read the rules!" -- 'IUF Rulebook'
(http://www.unicycling.org/iuf/rulebook/) -- 'USA Rulebook'
(http://www.unicycling.org/usa/competition/)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
johnfoss's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/832
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/37534

Okay,another thing to try.check if the bearing mounts are on tight.both
my unis make a sound just like you described,and i can fix it by
tightening up the bearing holders on the bottom.

--
forrestunifreak - R.I.P. Unibiker

Whenever im feeling blue,i just start breathing again.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
forrestunifreak's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/6828
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/37534

I just tightened the bearings a couple turns, and no more loud noises!
I thought i checked the tightness, and i did, and i thought i tightened
them more, but I ended up loosening them by turning it the wrong way.
Either way, the uni has No problems now, i just made sure the bearings
are the tightest they can be for the wheel to still turn with ease. I
think the bearings need to be tighter on this uni compared to my other
unicycle, because Im not used to having the bearings so tight. Either
way Thanks to everyone who responded, I will be able to use the
information in the future when I hear other noises.

Im glad that my unicycle is perfectly fine now, time to resume enjoying
it!

--
siafirede - straight edge in your face
------------------------------------------------------------------------
siafirede's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/6057
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/37534