potential fixie conversion?

If you can find a fixie hub to fit the rear dropout and the bike fits, I don't see why not.

Bear in mind that you can get really good brand new track bikes for under a grand that's already pre-drilled to take a front brake. If you think that you'll eventually be spending alot on this conversion, I'd say buy a new bike.

cheers
Koon

xisle said:

I've been looking around for a candidate and I came across this.

http://www.yossman.net/~nath/samurai/

The dropouts are horizontal but somewhat short. The frame has a few spots of rust but nothing serious. The sticker on the frame says "Infinity cromo tapered double butted tubing" (??). I've got some spare 105 cranks and rings replace the biopace stuff with.

So is this bike worth of a fixie conversion or should I keep hunting?

Koon Yong said:

If you can find a fixie hub to fit the rear dropout and the bike fits, I don't see why not.

Bear in mind that you can get really good brand new track bikes for under a grand that's already pre-drilled to take a front brake. If you think that you'll eventually be spending alot on this conversion, I'd say buy a new bike.

cheers
Koon

the bike is a nice fit.

As far as the fixie hub goes, I was going to look into whether one of those surly fixxers would work in it. If not, there's a local shop that stocks a few track hubs and I could get the wheel rebuilt there.

I don't plan on spending a lot of money on this. If I like riding fixed after a while with a cheap one I'll happily spend a bit of money on one. The bike was $70 (most expensive Tip Shop bike ever) but I've got a friend who's keen to buy some of the unwanted bits off the bike so that should bring the price down a bit.

As far as i know, surly fixxers only work on shimano cassette type hubs. Also, i'm not sure that dirt works imports the fixxers ... they don't seem too keen to bring in their fixed gear stuff apart from the steamroller frame.

Track hubs are 120mm dropout spacing. Highly likely that the bike you're looking at has wider spacing. easy to fix if you can get a longer axle fitted to the hub and re-dish the wheel to get correct chainline.

cheers
koon

xisle said:

the bike is a nice fit.

As far as the fixie hub goes, I was going to look into whether one of those surly fixxers would work in it. If not, there's a local shop that stocks a few track hubs and I could get the wheel rebuilt there.

I don't plan on spending a lot of money on this. If I like riding fixed after a while with a cheap one I'll happily spend a bit of money on one. The bike was $70 (most expensive Tip Shop bike ever) but I've got a friend who's keen to buy some of the unwanted bits off the bike so that should bring the price down a bit.

xisle said:

I've been looking around for a candidate and I came across this.

http://www.yossman.net/~nath/samurai/

The dropouts are horizontal but somewhat short. The frame has a few spots of rust but nothing serious. The sticker on the frame says "Infinity cromo tapered double butted tubing" (??). I've got some spare 105 cranks and rings replace the biopace stuff with.

So is this bike worth of a fixie conversion or should I keep hunting?

Hi,

I did the same thing to an old mountain bike I had, I had the rear wheel rebuilt on a fixed hub & track drop out put on at a very resonable cost from peter moore in richmond, It was worth a few extra $$$ to have a safe & reliable commuter which I ride most days. He also sorted out the chain line ect.

cheers

Koon Yong said:

As far as i know, surly fixxers only work on shimano cassette type hubs. Also, i'm not sure that dirt works imports the fixxers ... they don't seem too keen to bring in their fixed gear stuff apart from the steamroller frame.

Track hubs are 120mm dropout spacing. Highly likely that the bike you're looking at has wider spacing. easy to fix if you can get a longer axle fitted to the hub and re-dish the wheel to get correct chainline.

cheers
koon

Yeah I've read they only make fixxers to fit shimano cassete hubs, fortunately the bike has one of those so I might be in luck. As for Dirt Works not bringing them in, that might explain why I haven't got a call back from the bike shop where I enquired about pricing and availability.

The space between the dropouts on this bike is 127 mm. It's cro-mo, it bends a bit, think I'd be able to use a 120mm hub in there?

I've still got an old Repco (1989) with 105 down tube shifters on the Infinity cromo frame. Strong and reliable, smooth no fuss ride. Bring it out every so often for old times sake.

I have no problems cold bending a cromo frame to fit a hub ... however, that might affect your chainline

xisle said:

Yeah I've read they only make fixxers to fit shimano cassete hubs, fortunately the bike has one of those so I might be in luck. As for Dirt Works not bringing them in, that might explain why I haven't got a call back from the bike shop where I enquired about pricing and availability.

The space between the dropouts on this bike is 127 mm. It's cro-mo, it bends a bit, think I'd be able to use a 120mm hub in there?

Koon Yong said:

I have no problems cold bending a cromo frame to fit a hub ... however, that might affect your chainline

Is 3.5 mm enough to cause chainline issues? Perhaps I could overcome the problem with some bottom bracket shenanigans.

Well ... you really need to know what your front ring position is before you do anything. it could well be that even with a perfectly fitting rear hub, your chainline is off to begin with (like on my bike). You probably won't have to mess with your BB. Adjusting chainline could be as simple as moving your ring from the "inside" to the "outside" of the crank arms ... or using some spacers between the ring and crank arms.

I suggest you do all your measurements first, then decide on the best approach to "fix" your rear wheel.

check out www.sheldonbrown.com

Follow the fixed gear conversion links ... lots of info here.

In reality, it's not essential to have a perfect chainline. If you keep the chain tension tight, it's unlikely you'll throw the chain. having ridden fixed gear for quite a while now, I'd prefer to get a straight chainline because:

1) there's less friction per pedal stroke (yes, you can feel the difference)
2) your ring/cog doesn't wear as fast
3) your chain lasts longer (impt if you tend to stop by pedal pressure)
4) less noise

cheers and good luck
des

xisle said:

Is 3.5 mm enough to cause chainline issues? Perhaps I could overcome the problem with some bottom bracket shenanigans.

thanks for the pointers