I'm building a century bike out of a spare Trek 520. The one I use for loaded touring has the bar cons, but this one I want STI because its for local pavement trails only.
The crankset is 52/42/30, I need go to a 48/38/28 minimum gearing, the pins and ramps seem to make the STI shifting better on a stock 520 I've tried. I can find 46-48 regular straight rings. Looking at the crankset it seems the middle ring only has all the bumps and grooves in it. Does Shimano make any 130/74 ramped and pinned rings, or maybe just the middle if that's all that's needed, in a 36-38? I think I have to stick to a road fdr because of the STI, but would a mtb crankset swap in here and work with a road fdr?
I'm building a century bike out of a spare Trek 520. The one I use for loaded touring has the bar cons, but this one I want STI because its for local pavement trails only.
The crankset is 52/42/30, I need go to a 48/38/28 minimum gearing, the pins and ramps seem to make the STI shifting better on a stock 520 I've tried. I can find 46-48 regular straight rings. Looking at the crankset it seems the middle ring only has all the bumps and grooves in it. Does Shimano make any 130/74 ramped and pinned rings, or maybe just the middle if that's all that's needed, in a 36-38? I think I have to stick to a road fdr because of the STI, but would a mtb crankset swap in here and work with a road fdr?
People love to waste money. Do you really NEED to go to a 48-38-28 chainrings? Or do you just think a 10 cog jump between chainrings is cool? For about $10 you can buy a 28 tooth 74 mm bcd inner chainring and get the same low as your NEEDED ring combination. If the higher high with a 52 bothers you, just don't use the 52 with the smallest cog. Your STI will shift to a 28 ring just fine.
Replacement rings with the pins and ramps are fairly expensive from any maker. The non ramped ones are cheap. TA and most likely many others make 130 mm bcd rings in about any size you want. You just have to spend as much as the crank costs new to get them though.
"R Brickston" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:aU5ag.5115$Sh3.4717@trnddc05...
Quoted message said:
I'm building a century bike out of a spare Trek 520. The one I use for loaded touring has the bar cons, but this one I want STI because its for local pavement trails only.
The crankset is 52/42/30, I need go to a 48/38/28 minimum gearing, the pins and ramps seem to make the STI shifting better on a stock 520 I've tried. I can find 46-48 regular straight rings. Looking at the crankset it seems the middle ring only has all the bumps and grooves in it. Does Shimano make any 130/74 ramped and pinned rings, or maybe just the middle if that's all that's needed, in a 36-38? I think I have to stick to a road fdr because of the STI, but would a mtb crankset swap in here and work with a road fdr?
Get a Sugino XD300. It comes stock with 46/36/26 steel ramped and pinned rings, and it's like $50. Around $80 for the XD600, which is the same arms with Aluminum rings. Either route is likely cheaper than getting a set of rings for your current crank, and they're about the prettiest arms you're likely to find.
"R Brickston" <[email hidden]> wrote in news:aU5ag.5115$Sh3.4717@trnddc05:
Quoted message said:
The crankset is 52/42/30, I need go to a 48/38/28 minimum gearing, the pins and ramps seem to make the STI shifting better on a stock 520 I've tried.
The pins and ramps are useful on the middle ring of a triple, since the 42-30 gap is pretty big (percentage-wise). If double chainrings don't need pins and ramps to shift between rings, then triples shouln't need them to shift the same amount.
Get a Sugino XD300. It comes stock with 46/36/26 steel ramped and pinned rings, and it's like $50. Around $80 for the XD600, which is the same arms with Aluminum rings. Either route is likely cheaper than getting a set of rings for your current crank, and they're about the prettiest arms you're likely to find.
Good idea. Sheldon Brown advised me to go this route, and I got the all-steel one from Harris Cyclery, an 11-28 cassette to improve my "top end", and everything works great for minimum $.
I'm building a century bike out of a spare Trek 520. The one I use for loaded touring has the bar cons, but this one I want STI because its for local pavement trails only.
The crankset is 52/42/30, I need go to a 48/38/28 minimum gearing, the pins and ramps seem to make the STI shifting better on a stock 520 I've tried. I can find 46-48 regular straight rings. Looking at the crankset it seems the middle ring only has all the bumps and grooves in it. Does Shimano make any 130/74 ramped and pinned rings, or maybe just the middle if that's all that's needed, in a 36-38? I think I have to stick to a road fdr because of the STI, but would a mtb crankset swap in here and work with a road fdr?
The crankset is 52/42/30, I need go to a 48/38/28 minimum gearing, the pins and ramps seem to make the STI shifting better on a stock 520 I've tried. I can find 46-48 regular straight rings. Looking at the crankset it seems the middle ring only has all the bumps and grooves in it. Does Shimano make any 130/74 ramped and pinned rings, or maybe just the middle if that's all that's needed, in a 36-38?
Instead of looking for separate chainrings, you may want to get a "touring" MTB crankset with 48/36/26 chainrings. The prices range from about $50 (Deore) to about $150 (XT). If such gearing is fine for you, this is an easier and maybe also cheaper upgrade.
Quoted message said:
I think I have to stick to a road fdr because of the STI, but would a mtb crankset swap in here and work with a road fdr?
Both "yes".
There is one point with these MTB cranks: if it is 2-piece, then you can not adjust the chainline, which may be there a bit more than wanted. Square taper is a safe bet.
I'm building a century bike out of a spare Trek 520. The one I use for loaded touring has the bar cons, but this one I want STI because its for local pavement trails only.
The crankset is 52/42/30, I need go to a 48/38/28 minimum gearing, the pins and ramps seem to make the STI shifting better on a stock 520 I've tried. I can find 46-48 regular straight rings. Looking at the crankset it seems the middle ring only has all the bumps and grooves in it. Does Shimano make any 130/74 ramped and pinned rings, or maybe just the middle if that's all that's needed, in a 36-38? I think I have to stick to a road fdr because of the STI, but would a mtb crankset swap in here and work with a road fdr?
TA makes replacement rings you are looking for, with the big and middle with pins and ramps. shimano does not.
I'm building a century bike out of a spare Trek 520. The one I use for loaded touring has the bar cons, but this one I want STI because its for local pavement trails only.
The crankset is 52/42/30, I need go to a 48/38/28 minimum gearing, the pins and ramps seem to make the STI shifting better on a stock 520 I've tried. I can find 46-48 regular straight rings. Looking at the crankset it seems the middle ring only has all the bumps and grooves in it. Does Shimano make any 130/74 ramped and pinned rings, or maybe just the middle if that's all that's needed, in a 36-38? I think I have to stick to a road fdr because of the STI, but would a mtb crankset swap in here and work with a road fdr?
People love to waste money. Do you really NEED to go to a 48-38-28 chainrings? Or do you just think a 10 cog jump between chainrings is cool? For about $10 you can buy a 28 tooth 74 mm bcd inner chainring and get the same low as your NEEDED ring combination. If the higher high with a 52 bothers you, just don't use the 52 with the smallest cog. Your STI will shift to a 28 ring just fine.
Replacement rings with the pins and ramps are fairly expensive from any maker. The non ramped ones are cheap. TA and most likely many others make 130 mm bcd rings in about any size you want. You just have to spend as much as the crank costs new to get them though.
hmmmm-the three rings are about $95 or so and the gearing the gent wants...haven't seen many 105/ultegra cranks, new, for that little, even with chainrings he doesn't want...
I'm building a century bike out of a spare Trek 520. The one I use for loaded touring has the bar cons, but this one I want STI because its for local pavement trails only.
The crankset is 52/42/30, I need go to a 48/38/28 minimum gearing, the pins and ramps seem to make the STI shifting better on a stock 520 I've tried. I can find 46-48 regular straight rings. Looking at the crankset it seems the middle ring only has all the bumps and grooves in it. Does Shimano make any 130/74 ramped and pinned rings, or maybe just the middle if that's all that's needed, in a 36-38? I think I have to stick to a road fdr because of the STI, but would a mtb crankset swap in here and work with a road fdr?
People love to waste money. Do you really NEED to go to a 48-38-28 chainrings? Or do you just think a 10 cog jump between chainrings is cool? For about $10 you can buy a 28 tooth 74 mm bcd inner chainring and get the same low as your NEEDED ring combination. If the higher high with a 52 bothers you, just don't use the 52 with the smallest cog. Your STI will shift to a 28 ring just fine.
Replacement rings with the pins and ramps are fairly expensive from any maker. The non ramped ones are cheap. TA and most likely many others make 130 mm bcd rings in about any size you want. You just have to spend as much as the crank costs new to get them though.
hmmmm-the three rings are about $95 or so and the gearing the gent wants...haven't seen many 105/ultegra cranks, new, for that little, even with chainrings he doesn't want...
Nashbar sells the Ultegra triple crank for $99.95. 105 crank for $89.95. Nashbar sells the 26 tooth 74mm bcd ring for $12.95. A.E. Bike sells the 28 tooth 74mm bcd ring for $13.99. Nashbar also sells its 48-38-28 110/74mm bcd house crank for $74.95. Needs ISIS bottom bracket for $24.95. All Nashbar prices are before 10% off coupons of course.
A.E. Bike sells the Sugino 110/74 mm bcd cranks in 46-36-26 for $67(aluminum rings) or $45(steel rings).
Best, cheapest, easiest solution to this person's problems is to just put a 28 or 26 tooth inner ring on the bike and try it. 5 minutes to pull the crank, unbolt the old ring, bolt on the new ring, reinstall the crank arm. Then he can decide if he wants to go ahead with buying the new and expensive outer rings or a whole new crankset with the rings he wants.
Actually, if the guy wants new rings, he should look around for a used or NOS crank on ebay or craigslist. Further, he should check his LBS or any swap meets. A friend of mine had his chainrings wear on his mt bike and instead of paying exorbitant prices for new rings, he bought a NOS Shimano Deore crank complete for $25. Moreover, I recently sold a slightly used Campy "Racing-T" triple crank to a guy for $45 and the guy said all he bought it for the newer rings.
Thanks for all the great suggestions. Bike has an Octalink BB at the moment and pickings seem to be slim as the knees like 170mm. I could go with the Nashbar "trekking" that takes an Isis or go with the square taper Sugino XD300/XD600. Any advantage to either of these BB's?
Thanks for all the great suggestions. Bike has an Octalink BB at the moment and pickings seem to be slim as the knees like 170mm.
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I could go with the Nashbar "trekking" that takes an Isis or go with the square taper Sugino XD300/XD600. Any advantage to either of these BB's?
_ ISIS BBs don't have a great reputation for durablity and in a few years you may have trouble finding replacements (or maybe not, but ISIS is an experiment that failed). Square taper will be around for a long time to come and BB's are about half the price of ISIS BB's.
