Park Crank Pullers...,.

"TJ Poseno" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Well am finally gonna break down and buy a Crank puller, dont know why I didnt buy one before... I
am sick of taking of cranks witha gear puller and a c-Clamp. Or a prybar. So i'm going to get a
Park parktool.comCCP 2.shtmlOpen ↗ but my question is, is that what I need, I have a
bike with square tapers and I have to screw on a nut NOT a bolt to hold them on. So will that do
the job?

Now this WONT work right? parktool.comCWP 6.shtmlOpen ↗

It doesnt matter if the spindle uses a nut or a bolt to tighten the crank, the CCP 2 will work for
both types. If you have a bolt type spindle, just be sure to remove any washers in there under the
bolt before you use the tool to remove the crank.

I've never used the CWP 6, so can't comment with any authority on that one, but it "looks" like it
would also work for both nut and bolt type spindles.

Ed Chait

summit-<< So i'm going to get a Park parktool.comCCP 2.shtmlOpen ↗ but my question is,
is that what I need, I have a bike with square tapers and I have to screw on a nut NOT a bolt to
hold them on. So will that do the job? >><BR><BR>

Yep, that's the one for you-

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

On 26 Dec 2003 05:39:53 -0800, [email hidden] (TJ Poseno) may have

Quoted message said:

Well am finally gonna break down and buy a Crank puller, dont know why I didnt buy one before...
I am sick of taking of cranks witha gear puller and a c-Clamp. Or a prybar. So i'm going to get
a Park parktool.comCCP 2.shtmlOpen ↗ but my question is, is that what I need, I have
a bike with square tapers and I have to screw on a nut NOT a bolt to hold them on. So will that
do the job?

Yes. I use it on both types.

Quoted message said:

Now this WONT work right? parktool.comCWP 6.shtmlOpen ↗

Actually, yes, it will. The ram screw withdraws into the body far enough to permit it to work with
stud-end BB shafts. The CCP2 requires no additional wrenches under most conditions, although you may
need one in order to get the body screwed all of the way into the crank arm if the threads on the
arm are dirty or imperfect. Be *very* careful not to cross-thread the tool when screwing it into the
very fine threads on the crank; it is distressingly easy to end up with a buggered crank that can't
be removed by the tool.

I have a pair of home-made alignment aids that I use to minimize the chances of cross-threading; one
is a stud and sleeve that goes into bolt-end BB shafts, and the other is an internally threaded
sleeve for the stud-end ones; the OD of both sleeves is just small enough for the puller threads to
slip over. This ensures that the puller body (with the ramscrew removed) is being installed
straight. Note that this *cannot* guarantee a 100% no-screwups install, since a buggered first land
of the threads in the crank arm can still cause the body to chew in without being synchronized to
the thread pitch. (I have learned, by having to clean up the mistakes of both myself and others,
that there is *never* a 100% screwup-proof tool or method.)

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Yes, I have a killfile. If I don't respond to something,
it's also possible that I'm busy.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

TJ Poseno said:

Well am finally gonna break down and buy a Crank puller, dont know why I didnt buy one before... I
am sick of taking of cranks witha gear puller and a c-Clamp. Or a prybar. So i'm going to get a
Park parktool.comCCP 2.shtmlOpen ↗ but my question is, is that what I need, I have a
bike with square tapers and I have to screw on a nut NOT a bolt to hold them on. So will that do
the job?

Now this WONT work right? parktool.comCWP 6.shtmlOpen ↗

Either will work.

On all cranks, but yours especially, ensure the business end of either tool is fully withdrawn
before you screw the thing into clean crank threads. As noted here recently, finishing one side then
forgetting to withdraw the center bolt will prevent full thread engagement, possibly ruining the
other crank. More of the usual admonishments: Make sure you haven't forgotten a washer on bolted
spindles ( your nutted spindle uses no washer) and get the tool fully tightened in the crank's clean
threads before starting to extract the crank. Oil the tool's thread as well.

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Ok everyone thanks, just wanted to be sure that was the right tool.

"Werehatrack" <[email hidden]> wrote

Quoted message said:

I have a pair of home-made alignment aids that I use to minimize the chances of cross-threading;

Quoted message said:

Note that this *cannot* guarantee a 100% no-screwups install, since a buggered first land of the
threads in the crank arm can still cause the body to chew in without being synchronized to the
thread pitch.

Not if you screw the tool in by hand.

On Sat, 27 Dec 2003 18:53:12 GMT, "Peter Cole"

may have said:

"Werehatrack" <[email hidden]> wrote

Quoted message said:

I have a pair of home-made alignment aids that I use to minimize the chances of cross-threading;

Quoted message said:

Note that this *cannot* guarantee a 100% no-screwups install, since a buggered first land of the
threads in the crank arm can still cause the body to chew in without being synchronized to the
thread pitch.

Not if you screw the tool in by hand.

If the first land of thread is buggered, are you going to be able to screw the tool in by hand?

If screwing the tool in by hand, can someone with little familiarity always tell when it's in
far enough?

"Inspect for dirt and damage, start by hand, finish with whatever ensures a full grip" is my
preferred method...but not the only one.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Yes, I have a killfile. If I don't respond to something,
it's also possible that I'm busy.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

"Werehatrack" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On Sat, 27 Dec 2003 18:53:12 GMT, "Peter Cole" <[email hidden]> may

have said:

"Werehatrack" <[email hidden]> wrote

Quoted message said:

I have a pair of home-made alignment aids that I use to minimize the chances of cross-
threading;

Quoted message said:

Note that this *cannot* guarantee a 100% no-screwups install, since a buggered first land of
the threads in the crank arm can still cause the body to chew in without being synchronized to
the thread pitch.

Not if you screw the tool in by hand.

If the first land of thread is buggered, are you going to be able to screw the tool in by hand?

If you screw it in by hand, how does it get buggered?

Quoted message said:

If screwing the tool in by hand, can someone with little familiarity always tell when it's in
far enough?

When it stops. Eyeballing should be enough to tell if the thread's engaged.

Quoted message said:

"Inspect for dirt and damage, start by hand, finish with whatever ensures a full grip" is my
preferred method...but not the only one.

All of my bikes, even those 20+ years old have some sort of thread protection (dustcovers, etc.),
the threads are all clean & pristine. I don't see the need for special fixtures or procedures.
Screwing steel into aluminum is always going to require a bit of care, nothing more exotic than
that. I think you're making a mountain out of a molehill.