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New to Unicycling

Started by e39m5 · · Last activity · 9 posts · 275 views

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
30 April 2005
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5 May 2005
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e39m5
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  1. I want to try this out. It looks really cool and fun. I've been
    browsing around and I am really confused.

    What is "splined"?
    How do you put breaks on a unicycle?

    What do you think is a good starter cycle?

    e39m5

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    e39m5
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  2. You should go to http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=634
    Thats what I have except I have the 24" wheel.

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    MERCYME - Easy Rider

    "Elvis Presley aint got soul, John Coltrane is rock n' roll"-Mos Def
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  3. i would say start out on a 24" they seem to be the easiest to pedal and
    most common 🙂

    splined means that the are not the square tappered kind of cranks that
    they shove a circle onto a square to hold it in place splined is when
    the have individual teeth the lock into each other when you slide it on
    and tighten it. they are the best.

    ah to put breaks on a uni you will have to have one with the proper
    mouting or make yoour own its really just the same as the front tire of
    a bike.

    and depending on where you live i would say buy one from Darren Bedford
    i like his cycles the best.

    🙂

    --
    drewation - team YAMS member

    'SUNIC home page' (http://www.sunic.s5.com)
    'SUNIC gallery' (http://gallery.unicyclist.com/sunic)

    drewation said:

    *Beware of the tyler 🙁*

    disclaimer: the above message was not intended to offend anyone. if you
    are offended i can take no responsibility for my actions because i don't
    feel like it. also you are reading an internet newsgroup where not
    everyone will share your same views and beliefs, be able to take
    criticism and post/read threads at your own risk.
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  4. MERCYME, you don't have the LX, you have the CX

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    tylercox - Level 5 Unicornist

    *~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*

    "tyler cox i now love you" -From unicyclepa
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  5. Welcome...

    Splined cranks are much stronger than regular square tapered ones.
    However, unless you are doing drops exceeding a foot or two, it is
    unlikely that you will destroy even a regular crankset.

    To fit brakes onto a uni, it must have brake mounts or have brake mounts
    installed to the frame, then it's just like a bike's brake, typically
    the handle is attached to a bar that attaches to the seat, allowing you
    to actuate them as you grip the uni.

    The best uni for you to start with, depends on what you want to do with
    it.

    There are unis that are good for just riding and doing tricks...
    There are unis that are good for hopping around on stuff with...
    There are unis that are able to ride off-road over rough terrain more
    easily...
    There are unis that go really fast
    and really big unis, or unis with the wrong number of wheels for
    extra-crazy unicyclists

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    recycled - muni n00b
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  6. tylercox said:

    *MERCYME, you don't have the LX, you have the CX *

    Buddy you don't know what you are talking about, I have an LX.

    --
    MERCYME - Easy Rider

    "Elvis Presley aint got soul, John Coltrane is rock n' roll"-Mos Def
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  7. e39m5 said:

    *I want a uni for just riding for now. What is a good one? Is there
    a semi-cheap one (150 orless) thats good for riding, tricks, and
    hops?

    e39m5 *

    Go on Ebay and get a DX for $150 best bang for you buck, splined to...

    Chase

    --
    Unitik908 - team YAMS member

    All hail the exhaulted Sigpoose, for he is forever king...
    R.I.P Unibiker
    R.I.P Gazzaloddi
    R.I.P Paul Hester
    R.I.P Mitch Hedberg
    R.I.P Pope John Paul II
    R.I.P James_Potters_Cat
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  8. word, that's a good deal...:eek:

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    recycled - muni n00b

    Nimbus Muni 24x3
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  9. e39m5 said:

    *I want to try this out. It looks really cool and fun.*

    Your iniitial impression is accurate.

    Quoted message said:

    *What is "splined"?*

    A splined crank/hub is stronger, if you're doing heavy-duty mountain or
    trials riding, but is a bit of overkill otherwise. A regular
    square-taper cotterless setup is fine for your purposes. Avoid cottered
    cranks, which attach to the hub with pins that go sideways through the
    base of the crank. You are unlikely to see these on a new uni, but some
    old vintage EBay relic might have them.

    Quoted message said:

    *How do you put breaks on a unicycle?*

    Your feet are the best brakes for you at this point. Mechanical brakes
    are used less for stopping the uni than for adding drag to help keep
    control on steep downhill slopes. It's for experienced riders who know
    how to use it, and again is overkill if you don't need it.

    Quoted message said:

    *What do you think is a good starter cycle?

    e39m5 *

    No brand preference here, but in general, here are some things to look
    for:

    - Probably either a 20- or 24-inch wheel to learn on. Personally I think
    the difference in difficulty is negligible. If you know you want to
    focus on mostly freestyle tricks, get a 20; for longer distances
    outside, get a 24, though you'll probably want a still larger wheel for
    that after you learn how to ride well. Learning on a larger wheel is
    more difficult.

    - Cotterless cranks. You don't need splined, and don't want cottered.

    - Avoid the "lollipop" style of bearing holder, which has a stalk that
    fits inside the fork tube. These are not as durable, as stress on them
    can crack the ends of the fork tubes. They are ok for learning on,
    though, and are most often found on cheaper unis, so you can compromise
    on this if you just want to learn on a tight budget. But that's really
    the only reason to have them.

    - A flat fork crown, if you are thinking of doing one-footed tricks. Not
    important otherwise. Many of the less expensive unis have rounded
    crowns.

    - A fork crown with enough clearance to fit the kind of tire that you
    plan to use. I sold a Miyata that I had a few years ago because I wanted
    to ride a fatter tire, and it wouldn't fit into the fork.

    - A seat post long enough for your height. Bike-shop 20-inchers commonly
    come with posts that are way too short for adult riders. The way I
    always figure this is to just get the longest post available, and
    hacksaw it if it's too long.

    - A comfortable saddle. What "comfortable" means varies drastically from
    one person to the next, so it's hard to recommend one kind over another.
    The saddle is the second most easily replaced part of the unicycle,
    though, if you end up not liking the one that you have. A handle on the
    front of the saddle is a plus. The generic bike-shop unis often come
    with child-size saddles which are not pleasant experiences for
    non-child-type people.

    - Plastic pedals, especially if you're riding indoors. Metal ones chew
    up gym floors as well as your shins. This is the most easily replaced
    part.

    Anything with this set of components should work great for you. Wander
    through unicycle.com's catalog and look for something in your price
    range.

    I got my first uni at a garage sale. It was a beat-up round-crown 24
    with lollipops and an evil saddle, but I learned on it and rode it
    happily for quite a while. Well worth the twenty bucks.

    --
    weeble - There can be only one... wheel

    ==============
    Another Joe in MN
    Level 2 and holding
    ==============

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