e39m5 said:*I want to try this out. It looks really cool and fun.*
Your iniitial impression is accurate.
Quoted message said:*What is "splined"?*
A splined crank/hub is stronger, if you're doing heavy-duty mountain or
trials riding, but is a bit of overkill otherwise. A regular
square-taper cotterless setup is fine for your purposes. Avoid cottered
cranks, which attach to the hub with pins that go sideways through the
base of the crank. You are unlikely to see these on a new uni, but some
old vintage EBay relic might have them.
Quoted message said:*How do you put breaks on a unicycle?*
Your feet are the best brakes for you at this point. Mechanical brakes
are used less for stopping the uni than for adding drag to help keep
control on steep downhill slopes. It's for experienced riders who know
how to use it, and again is overkill if you don't need it.
Quoted message said:*What do you think is a good starter cycle?
e39m5 *
No brand preference here, but in general, here are some things to look
for:
- Probably either a 20- or 24-inch wheel to learn on. Personally I think
the difference in difficulty is negligible. If you know you want to
focus on mostly freestyle tricks, get a 20; for longer distances
outside, get a 24, though you'll probably want a still larger wheel for
that after you learn how to ride well. Learning on a larger wheel is
more difficult.
- Cotterless cranks. You don't need splined, and don't want cottered.
- Avoid the "lollipop" style of bearing holder, which has a stalk that
fits inside the fork tube. These are not as durable, as stress on them
can crack the ends of the fork tubes. They are ok for learning on,
though, and are most often found on cheaper unis, so you can compromise
on this if you just want to learn on a tight budget. But that's really
the only reason to have them.
- A flat fork crown, if you are thinking of doing one-footed tricks. Not
important otherwise. Many of the less expensive unis have rounded
crowns.
- A fork crown with enough clearance to fit the kind of tire that you
plan to use. I sold a Miyata that I had a few years ago because I wanted
to ride a fatter tire, and it wouldn't fit into the fork.
- A seat post long enough for your height. Bike-shop 20-inchers commonly
come with posts that are way too short for adult riders. The way I
always figure this is to just get the longest post available, and
hacksaw it if it's too long.
- A comfortable saddle. What "comfortable" means varies drastically from
one person to the next, so it's hard to recommend one kind over another.
The saddle is the second most easily replaced part of the unicycle,
though, if you end up not liking the one that you have. A handle on the
front of the saddle is a plus. The generic bike-shop unis often come
with child-size saddles which are not pleasant experiences for
non-child-type people.
- Plastic pedals, especially if you're riding indoors. Metal ones chew
up gym floors as well as your shins. This is the most easily replaced
part.
Anything with this set of components should work great for you. Wander
through unicycle.com's catalog and look for something in your price
range.
I got my first uni at a garage sale. It was a beat-up round-crown 24
with lollipops and an evil saddle, but I learned on it and rode it
happily for quite a while. Well worth the twenty bucks.
--
weeble - There can be only one... wheel
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Another Joe in MN
Level 2 and holding
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