New Schlumpf setup

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what kind of cranks go on the schlumph hub then? any squared tapered
crank?

btw awesome uni 😄 damn it i want to ride one of those!

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any square tapers go on it, they use a hollow crank bolt to allow for
the 'stick shift' that the buttons attach to.

it's a simple square taper setup

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i find it easier to shift with the shorter cranks, my ankle seems to be
in a better position

although, i typically ride with it shifted up, and don't really shift
it much

unless i'm in the woods, then i ride it shifted down

it's much easier to shift down, then up

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Brian MacKenzie said:

i find it easier to shift with the shorter cranks, my ankle seems to be
in a better position

As well as the shorter cranks, another factor that could make shifting
easier would be that those cranks are "flat" on the outside. The
Q-factor shape of the standard Schlumpf cranks make the button rather
recessed from where my heels are, making it rather difficult for me to
shift it.

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gkmac said:

As well as the shorter cranks, another factor that could make shifting
easier would be that those cranks are "flat" on the outside. The
Q-factor shape of the standard Schlumpf cranks make the button rather
recessed from where my heels are, making it rather difficult for me to
shift it.

Good point, I never considered that. The last time i tried 127
Schlumpf cranks was Gilby's, and that was my first time on a Schlumpf,
so I have no input about that. Your point seems valid though.

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I hope the Q-factor of the cranks are not there to prevent accidental
shifting. Although I was out for an hour today and that didn't seem to
be an issue, but i was just cleaning up my winter unicycling legs, not
really pushing it too much 🙂

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I think not quite any cranks will fit.

Two reasons -

Firstly if the hole in the outside of the crank is too deep, shifting
will be made harder.

Secondly, if the back of the crank isn't round, or is two big a round
thing, then I don't think they'd fit, cos the back of the crank
actually goes slightly into the bearing holder (at least on the
Schlumpf cranks it does), I think 'these' (http://tinyurl.com/3kffe)
cranks won't fit if you look at the back of them.

Also, I might being mental and making things up in my head, but I think
you aren't supposed to put steel cranks on it right? Or can I put my
bicycle euros on it?

I ride mine high on road except junctions, cos I don't like hopping at
junctions when I have my laptop in my bag, and idling the schlumpf in
high gear is horrible.

Off road, almost always low gear, but there is something really really
fun about blasting down easy singletrack in high gear, or bombing down
fireroads.

One question that you might have an idea about - the shifter button on
my right crank, has some mud or something in the hole in the centre,
which means I can't get the allen key in to unscrew it. Any ideas what
I can do to fix it. The button is locked on solid, I can't unscrew it
by holding the other side still. Fortunately it was only the left crank
that snapped or else I'd be buggered.

Joe

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joemarshall said:

the shifter button on my right crank, has some mud or something in the
hole in the centre,
Joe

power washer?

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Brian MacKenzie said:

power washer?

exactly what i was about to say

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i'm not sure on the best method to undo the buttons without the other
one spining, so i took that little tool that goes into the two recesses
on the bottom (do you have that? it came with mine in a package)

and i clamped a vise grip (waits for group shudder/groan) to the button
on the other side in order to twist it with the tool

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Brian MacKenzie said:

power washer?

Aha, good idea. I wonder where I find one of those... Maybe garages
have them or something.

Joe

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joemarshall said:

Aha, good idea. I wonder where I find one of those... Maybe garages have
them or something.

Joe

you guys have coin-op car washers over thar?

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if you are using a pressure washer be careful you are not blasting crud
into your bearings. wrecked a headset on my bike that way...

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In addition to the super-small allen wrench that unscrews the center set
screw in the shift button, Schlumpf also makes a little black wrench
tool that grips the button itself, and rather well I might add.

If the set screw is muddied up, and you have the proprietary button
wrench, you might still be able to unscrew the button from the axle
thread. The set screw is to set the button in whatever lateral
position is good for a given crank arm hole. Some like the button in
more, some like it protruding to make it easier to catch on one's
ankle.

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unisk8r said:

If the set screw is muddied up, and you have the proprietary button
wrench, you might still be able to unscrew the button from the axle
thread. The set screw is to set the button in whatever lateral
position is good for a given crank arm hole. Some like the button in
more, some like it protruding to make it easier to catch on one's
ankle.

Tried it. Problem is that the super-tight button is tighter than the
button on the other side, so turning the button with the wrench just
turns the whole shift lever and unscrews the other side button.

I'll try the pressure washer and see what I can do. Otherwise I guess
ride it, hope nothing breaks at least until I'm in Europe again and if
the crank breaks then I guess it's warranty time Schlumpf style
ie.several months without the unicycle.

Joe

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Don't use a power washer! You'll get water in where you definitely don't
want it.

I have the same problem with pedal caps; I use a typical inexpensive
pick tool from the local hardware store to dig out the crud, then I can
tap the hex tool in lightly with a hammer. You could easily spray in a
little WD-40 to help soften up the crud if you need to.

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U-Turn said:

I have the same problem with pedal caps; I use a typical inexpensive
pick tool from the local hardware store to dig out the crud, then I can
tap the hex tool in lightly with a hammer. You could easily spray in a
little WD-40 to help soften up the crud if you need to.

I tried a needle to clear it out and that didn't work. Is the pick tool
any different? It's much smaller than any pedal end-caps I've seen,
it's a maybe 8-10mm deep hole, just over 3mm wide, at the bottom of it
is a 1.5mm ID, 3mm OD (I think) grub screw just like a pedal pin, which
is quite a long way back. Currently the hex key goes in maybe 3mm less
than it should, and I don't think it reaches the grub screw at all.

Joe

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