Originally Posted by
BuzzardMarine
I have found rthat his tranisission has to n=be more direct and straight on to not BA
This is a close up of the tread patte
- Serfas Tread Or the ( lack there of)
- Center pull brakes Shamino need new pads and my stoke
- ones are 52mm , I hope to use a pad with larger contact surface .
- Old Sckool Center pull brakes ,
- Gen I Rock Shoxs ? I think they still work how do you tell ?
- Note no room for Front fender with these brakes .
Yeah.. slicks and loose surface... not a good idea!
The other day it just started raining and I was taking a turn (a really wide turn) at around 30km/h and the bike just "slipped" underneath me... (I guess bad asphalt or the dust on the road turned to a thin layer of mud.) I got back looking like a pig from the slide and I also got a knock on my arm...
Yesterday again I was riding on the road and at some point I heard that screaching that sand makes when you get over it... I knew that the slightest leaning would probably result in a spill. If you ride over loose surface with slicks maybe try to keep it vertical and slow...
The tires look fine... Did they say for what kind of surface they are intended for?
Cantilever brakes are intended mainly for off road riding these days (like cyclocross) as they have a wider clearance for mud pile up on the wheel. But they are not the only component that affects braking performance. It is a combination of the rims braking surface, the brake pads, the total weight of the bicycle, the brake blocks performance, the cable tension etc. If you change the brake pads and you still dont get adequate performance maybe you can go for a v-brake system. Apparently since these engage the wheel on the end of its diameter they apply more torque force and they provide more stopping power then a disc brake or roller brake that applies torque force on a point more near to the centre of the wheel:
Longer lever arm (as in greater distance from the wheels hub) = more torque for the force applied.
Plus v-brakes are lighter then a disk brake system. But they do not perform that well in the wet (as roller brakes which are a sealed system) and they do kinda wear out the rim... But if you are a bit more careful a v-brake can perform just fine.
I think that there is a rule on quality standards about brakes. Something like they are supposed to be able to bring the bike to a halt in "x" meters for a specific set of values for weight and speed. Therefore some manufacturers (I remember reading about that on a bikes manual once) say that if the total weight is more then "x" then you need to replace the brake pads or something.
Maybe you can use a removable fender... If you wanna go for fixed ones there are some that in the case that a stone or lots of mud gets stuck between the wheel and fender they dissengage the fender from the supporting wire so they wont block the wheel. (SKS makes some of those).
I dont know anything about suspensions on MTB, maybe somebody can fill in on this... But if its a spring and rubber dampening system there is a chance that the spring has lost its elasticity over the years or the dampening rubber might not be dampening anymore which would result in the bike "bouncing" like a car without suspension fluid. The local bike shop should be able to check that easily. Basically if the supension works (as in absorbing an impact and not bouncing after) it might be fine).
Btw if you get new brakes they usually come with a pair of pads. Maybe if you wanna change the brake pads you can try to change the whole block and use these on another bike that you dont use often or use in the mud?
Good luck