New 2 Forum Old Guy 54 Old Bike 20 yr old Diamond Back Accent any advise welcome please read





The tire you posted is the type I have been lookin at ! I found a pair of Contentinals on eBay for $30.00 total come with eBay return Gaurantee and state they are like new installed on a bike and were wrong size ; So what size tire like that will replace a mudder like I have that is a 26 x 1.5 - 195 with a tread pattern like you display except all black and just for looks I like big fat tires ? Please and thank you !

lol with my health issues blood clots and hip implant and the weather in good ole Georgia only snows possibly 4 x's a year but it does get IMO to cold to ride early am from Dec to March and never clod straight through for 4 mths it will be like in the teens F* for possibly 3 days straight and not get above 40* even in daylight for 30 out of 120 day of the 4 mths of our winter . Like today it will be 80* F* but last night it was near 50* not cold but requirs a bit a Linen when sleeping at night usuall early am right before sun up which was about 5;30 to 7:30 am EST Wed.

I guess the pads are good , I can do front wheel stands and lock the back tire up on dirt or aspault ? Those tires are not dry rotted and must be tough they were added when I bought the bike over 20 years ago and never had a tire issue or slice and 80% of it's past life the bike was in the Blue Ridge Mountains & hills and Trails along the Chatoochee River Around North Atlanta Georgia USA , mud , hills , rocks, roots ,gravle , and trails even pile ups on dirt tracks this bike is heavy and heavy duty in 92 I paid $1400.00 and added tires , Rock Shocks , went back 2 mths later and dropped 1 tooth on the smallest front sprocket , had Rooster Bars on the end of the handle bars for tough hills and Georgia red mud and slick clays took them off when all the kids came along and we rode to neighborhood pool and rides in the park !

No squeeks and always been kept dry and clean ! In low gear the bike will go up any hill as long as I can pedal . Yesterday , I rode about 3 hours up and down the same road and still don't have the front derailer tuned perfect ! It clanks and will jump a few teeth on the front sprockets from gear to gear not smooth ? Does the rear tensioner loose strength after 20 year ? Still rideable just not smooth gear changing ? lol , I guess I answered my own question . Still I welcome any advise I have 3 or 4 donor bikes and some are newer than this one but just don't feel as good as this one ; Altus shifters are Thumb Index fingers and they click shift not pressure shift . . . .click it and it shifts that is what I am learning along with staminia count the clicks and this comes from riding and shifting ? I have a newer style Rock Shock and newer shifters and a whole new rear ? ? ? ? ? ? Sprockets attached to other wheels ? Can I chage just the tension part of the gear system ?
 
Hmmm if you shop online there have different sections for 700c and 26's when browsing for tires so you can check some tires on a few shops. I bet that there are loads less aggresive thread patterns on mtb tires. I think they even make slick tires for mtb wheels too. Flatter tires will probably be faster on paved roads, but on trails you might want something with a bit of grip. You might wanna check some "cyclocross" tires to get some ideas about the thread pattern.

If you ride alot in the rain you might wanna check for these brake pads with the compound that has better performance in the wet. But you might also want to consider a brake pad compound that is rim-friendly and wont wear your rims.

There are lots of online videos on how to adjust the deraileurs. I tried once but the soft + and - screws got wrecked by the screwdriver and I had to go to the shop and replace them. Luckily I did not damage the inside thread on the deraileur. As far as the chain tensioner getting softer over time... no idea.
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Your local LBS can adjust all that stuff and tell you if the deraileurs and chain tensioner are in good shape.

Good luck
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Are the 26 700c tires the correct size to replace agressive mud tires size 26 x 1.5 -195 ?

Is that a pure street tire or on / off road tire ?

Is 26 700c the size ?

Is there a fatter tire that will replace my off road tire and not a pure street tire ?
 
Quote: Originally Posted by BuzzardMarine .
Are the 26 700c tires the correct size to replace agressive mud tires size 26 x 1.5 -195 ?

Is that a pure street tire or on / off road tire ?

Is 26 700c the size ?

Is there a fatter tire that will replace my off road tire and not a pure street tire ?

You need either 700c or 26's

Both come in various thread patterns.

Depends what you need (snow, mud, ice, asphalt, etc) .

Btw...
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Bike shop said 700c would not fit my rims and the cheapest tire he had was a slick by Specialized for $35.00 and $8.00 to mount - CRAZY !

I can buy a pair for $30.00 off eBay brand new and mount for free just have to be sure of size ?

I am Guessing a Hybrid tire and 26 x 1.5 195 ? Will a 26 x 2.0 20 fit a MTB ?

The bike shop almost laughed at me when I mentioned a 700c said it was impossible to think about that I needed to come look at the tires .

I just find it hard to justify $43.00 to purchase and mount a bicycle tire ?
 
Don't forget you'll have to pay shipping on those eBay tires, and some eBay sellers can really homer a buyer on shipping costs. If I were you I'd just buy the LBS tire and mount it yourself. It's easy enough to learn how to remove your wheel, change tires, and then mount the wheel back in the frame. You might also consider getting a new inner tube to either use or have as a spare.
 
THE STATS IN TEXT ARE FOR THE TIRE PICTURED UNDER STATS 2 PACK Kenda KWEST K193 26" x 1.5" This tire cost $33.99 a pair and $9.00 shipping these tires IMO as a newbie and per the " expert " guy at bike shop are not really what I want I want a fater tire and he said these may not last that long being used on big rocks ? I live in a rural area and will / do ride over big sharp gravel rocks in driveways ? Also I want fatter tires . I think because I don't know how fat these would be . But the gravel issue is a reasonable consern IMO ? I am no expert by a long shot but I can change tires and tubes ; I don't even need tire tools ; I just use my hands Is this unusual ? This is the style tire the bike "expert " wanted $35.00 ea. for except the brand was Specialized Why the huge mark up is the brand name that much better ? I know I don't want these tires . they just don't look good to me and due to driving conditions and price of the tire I don't care for them ? THOUGHTS ? total a pr. $43.00



Pair (2) KENDA K1067 26x1.5 KWIK TENDRIL MTB Hybrid Mountain Bike Tires BLACK These tires are $39.95 including shipping ? They don't look fat at all ? total a pr. $40.00 THOUGHTS , OPINIONS , SUGGESTIONS

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I DON'T REALLY CARE FOR THESE TWO STYLES ? THOUGHTS , OPINIONS , SUGGESTIONS ?



Kenda 26x1.5 Black ATB w/Ridge K53 Bike Tire This tire is $13.99 ea = $32.00 + $10.00 shipping IMHO this is the type tire I need and want ? total a pr. $42.00 total I think this may be best tire for me thoughts opinions





KENDA KWICK TRAX 26 x 1.5 FAST TIRE IRON-CAP ANTI-PUNCTURE BELTED BIKE TOUR MTB $20.00 ea = $40.00 + $24.00 shipping I like this one the best and it doesn't look extremely agressive ? Any thoughts . suggestion , recommendations ? Is this tire worth $22.00 more a set or $11.00 more a tire than the the previous tire It appears that the part that would be on the road is smooth and the sides would still be great for off road ? Total a pr. $64.00 this seller is charging high shipping is the tire worth the total cost more than the previous ?





Will this last tire make an acceptable street tire ?

NEW Serfas Drifter City bicycle tire 26 x 1.5 Commuter This is a different style tire and I would consider it thought and opinions
$30.00 ea = $60.00 total a pr $60.00

 
Aaaah Kendas... I had a commuter bike that came with Kenda 700x35 tires. They were called Kenda Kwik or something like that...

Ok the 700c and the 26 are two different dimensions of tires for different dimensions on wheel diameter. Yours are probably 26's as this is a front suspension mountain bike.

There is a new dimension in mountain bike tires, the 29's but I dont know anything about them.

So... back to the Kendas...

I rode the Kendas for about 2600km before they finally got shreded, but these were street tires and I was riding them everywhere, even in trails some times. They are strong tires, they last, but they are nothing special.

I changed them later for a pair of Specialized espoir ones. They costed both 40euro and it was like a I had a new bike! Whilst with the old tires I was averaging 20kmh when cruising, with the new tires when inflated on the high limit I was averaging 22-24kmh! Ofcourse that might have been psychological as maybe I was pushing more with the new tires but they really did feel faster. They were also thinner then the older ones. The old ones (the kendas) where 700x35 and the Specialized one's were 700x28.

I did another 800km with the specialized ones with zero flats I think before I sold the bike.

I bought a road bike that also came with specialized espoir. They are even thinner at 700x25. I have currently 3000km on them with maybe 3 flats but the roads here are very bad. I think they are an excellent long lasting tire, but they are not the "raciest" probably.

As for the tread. If you are going to use it in offroad too. then something with a bit of tread, just to grab inside the loose surface would be ok. If you are doing some serious mud trails, then you need knobbier and knobbier tires probably. But on the other hand as your skill increases you might be fine with flatter tires and by just being a bit more careful.

Knobby tires are really slow on the pavement... Flatter tires are much more fun for me.

I think that this tread is a good all rounder:


Its not too deep for the street. Especially after the rain when there might be some surface mud and I think it should be fine for offroad use too.

Btw... For me it feels like tires are 1/3 of the bikes performance. So I would spend another 10euro perhaps to get a better pair then save 10euro and have a tire that I dont like for thousands of km's.

Conti's are apparently some very researched tires. They are in the tire business for really long so their products are probably very developed and well designed too. As might be Schwalbe, Vreddestein, etc. I havent tried many brands but switching from Kendas to Specialized it was like night and day for me. So I guess if I switch from the trainer tire to a racier tire it will be awesome!
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If you shop for Conti's, they are way much cheaper in Germany.

The price for the Kenda's you mentioned above seems a bit high. Kendas are usually a 10-15euro tire each. Unless this is one of their higher end ones.

You dont need to pay for installing the tires on your bike. Its really easy and since you are gonna get a flat maybe sometime its good to practice it a bit. Quick release wheels almost require no tools at all to change a bike tire - tube.

Good luck!
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Oh and I forgot...

Bikes dont have problems with the "hydroplanning" effect car tires have when the surface is wet.

I dont think that its impossible but the parameters for a bike to "hydroplane" on water are unreachable. Here is an article about this:

http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html

So anything with a "groove" or stuff like that probably just offers a bit of surface friction if the most of tire (the part that is not grooved) is immersed in mud. So I guess that the only two patterns that make sense is either "knobby" ( deep or shallow-er) and slick...

That website above has lots of info on tires and wheels.
 
Well after looking at the tires on bikes and up close I think the Slicks will work for me and there are tons of tires out there and true the Contentantnals are an old tire company I am used to the mudders and I don't think I will need the treaded tires I at this time will not be going 40 around curves and I will be poking arounf on the gravel and not abusing the tires I am going to spend tomorrow looking and hope to decide on a style and after dealing with brands and such I know I am a newbie but IMHO i do not feel the more expensive tires are worth the extra $$$ ? I am going to spend about 432.00 A TIRE AND i WANT A 26 2.0 20 559 MM tire and I think I have found the one I want . Just want to bug the bike shop again and I hate it but I will not be buying a Specialized slick for $35.00 but I look at the different prices and the cheapest tire is $20.00 ea. and for not a high end but an average tire and the mid price tires are all around $35.00 to $45.00 ! So like you say what is $10.00 in the big picture but to break it back down and think about spending $45.00 for a bike tire is just hard to justify ? How ever I have also come to the conclusion that the tires are possible the single most important preformance part of the bike and will effect me more than any other part and the tires will be with me for a while ? So for a not major purchase a lot of thought needs to go into the purchase of a set of tires and all you pros are thinking why all the fuss when you have 5 sets of tires for every condition you may be riding in ? lol the stupity of beginning and the learning curve ?
 
If you go for slicks then they will be great on pavement... Mud... not too much but then again if you are a bit careful you can come over a small patch of mud in slow speed.

The same applies for gravel. But high inflated slicks, that are made for pavement might get flats on gravel. Maybe not but...

If you are planning on getting some serious miles on gravel maybe a litlle knobby-ish tire with adequate flat protection would be ideal.

Again, I didnt try many brands... But I think that price is pretty high for Kendas. I think they are a taiwan company.

Recently I bought some tubes. The best ones I found were the Vredestein Race ones, they were pre-talced, and the valve seemed of quality, for 5 euro. I found some continental ones for 5 euro too. Without talc on them but the valve seemed of quality too. Tubes were responsible for a couple of my flats when the valve got teared from the tube.

Whatever tires you get will last a long time. I bet even the cheapest ones will last for 3000km at least and thats alot of riding... If you wanna browse lots of tires there are many online shops that stock many different brands. Maybe you wanna check alot of them and then when you find the tire you want try to get it from a local vendor to avoid shipping charges... You can also check the manufacturers websites to see the whole range of tires for each brand and find a local vendor too.

Some big online shops:

I bought some parts from sjs once and I can vouch for them, they ship fast and there were no problems. They also send me a cool newsletter and they also stock some really sweet custom hand made touring bikes from the brand "Thorn".

www.sjscycles.co.uk/‎

www.bike-discount.de/?lg=en‎ (good prices for conti's here)

www.chainreactioncycles.com/‎

Good luck.
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I looked at about 15 different tires and these seemed like to me they would be rugged enough for gravel and minor mud and not puncture everytime I hit a shapr edge and still no agressive tread to make it a slow tire also the 2.0 at 65 psi should ride pretty good so I am ready to tune me up now and get busy I have got my goal up to 30 round trips up and down the 1/2 mile grade in front of my home and it has a gravel driveway and aspalt rd _ I hit the power ines a couple of days ? I still have not got the semi slicks in and from what I have read I may go straight to my goal of 50 times up and dowm with just the new tires ? I am excited about how the bike will ride with the new tires ? So you think I did OK and those Drifters will handle the gravel and I don't expect them to be a reaal trail tire but a little dirt roadinf and some fire breaks in the Blue Ridge mountains and some semi trials riding in the creeks I bought some ne padals and the are a lot more sturfy than my old ones I NEED new grips and with the oldsckool shifters I think I will need full finger cloves not that my hands are that soft just the shifters and brakes are tha rifged ? Also I do need new brake pads mine are very hard and I can stop with then and skid the tire but I feel it requires to much effort to stop as even with my regular weight lifting I have finished riding and had soar forearms and Quads :) I like that ! I am going to hold off on cabels for naw and when I do get cabels I am going to get red that will contrast the black bike and also got rd pads ordered and they are 2 1/2 inches or maybe 3 in pads
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Marine over kill but I do weight 220 and dropping fast with the extra cardio from the bike in just one week 5 lbs but I push had and getting a new heavy bag Mon ? A little light from the last one I wore out . It was a 100 l bag and this is 70 lb bag so it will be OK and just move more
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So mainlt do you give the tires a thumbs up for my 1st street tire ?
 
If the brake pads have been on the bike a long time and/or are worn down, they need to be replaced. With respect to the gravel road and your ties, don't tense up. Ride relaxed. A death grip on the bars is not helpful at all.
 
Quote: Originally Posted by BuzzardMarine .
I looked at about 15 different tires and these seemed like to me they would be rugged enough for gravel and minor mud and not puncture everytime I hit a shapr edge and still no agressive tread to make it a slow tire also the 2.0 at 65 psi should ride pretty good so I am ready to tune me up now and get busy I have got my goal up to 30 round trips up and down the 1/2 mile grade in front of my home and it has a gravel driveway and aspalt rd _ I hit the power ines a couple of days ? I still have not got the semi slicks in and from what I have read I may go straight to my goal of 50 times up and dowm with just the new tires ? I am excited about how the bike will ride with the new tires ? So you think I did OK and those Drifters will handle the gravel and I don't expect them to be a reaal trail tire but a little dirt roadinf and some fire breaks in the Blue Ridge mountains and some semi trials riding in the creeks I bought some ne padals and the are a lot more sturfy than my old ones I NEED new grips and with the oldsckool shifters I think I will need full finger cloves not that my hands are that soft just the shifters and brakes are tha rifged ? Also I do need new brake pads mine are very hard and I can stop with then and skid the tire but I feel it requires to much effort to stop as even with my regular weight lifting I have finished riding and had soar forearms and Quads :) I like that ! I am going to hold off on cabels for naw and when I do get cabels I am going to get red that will contrast the black bike and also got rd pads ordered and they are 2 1/2 inches or maybe 3 in pads
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Marine over kill but I do weight 220 and dropping fast with the extra cardio from the bike in just one week 5 lbs but I push had and getting a new heavy bag Mon ? A little light from the last one I wore out . It was a 100 l bag and this is 70 lb bag so it will be OK and just move more
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So mainlt do you give the tires a thumbs up for my 1st street tire ?

I ride some training slicks at 110psi and sometimes I find some gravel patches of about 5meters that I am too bored to get off the bike and carry it and I ride over it. Most of times no flats. I think that with these since they are a commuter tire you wont have problems with flats. But maybe you need to be carefull for traction over gravel and sand. Gravel and sand moves around easily so you might wanna just carry the bike or just be real careful. A bit of maintenance will also help. Everytime you wash the bike, you can also wash the tires and with a dull instrument, like the point of a table knife, remove any gravel or glass particles that gets embedded in the outside of the tires.

You could either get some gloves with vibration absorbing or some vibration absorbing grips, or both. If you are riding long distances they do make a great difference...

If the brake pads are worn out you should replace them... Check for a rim-friendly compound with good performance in the wet too... Also when cleaning the bike, the wheel rim brake surface should also be clean. Be a bit careful when lubricating chains, shifters, etc so oil wont get on the brake surface on the rim... It can have some very slippery effects...
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"Koolstop" has lots of info on brake pads on their website. If you google it it will be there...
You might also need to adjust the cables on the brakes. Maybe the cable run should be shorter so the brakes are engaged with a shorter movement of the lever.

70lt bag for cycling???
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Is'nt that alot (if thats what you meant) ??? Maybe a 35lt backpack would be better, with some waist support to get the load of your shoulders towards the waist...
 
lol
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No I started back cycling as a result of healthy life style and training and not so much for love of cycleing - lol
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no I am from USA and we stll use lbs not Ltrs and I was a little of topic and thinking lb of a heavy bag with regards to training ie. cycling .

I was talking about an Everlast bag you hit / punch and how the one I found for a good deal was 30 lbs lighter than the 100 lb heavy bag I had wore out beat the stuffing out of lol ! I wear about 1 100 lb bag out every 2 years and this one is like new and only $45.00 including mount and spare pair of bag goves almost like MMA gloves / just enough padding to prevent your knuckles from bleeding
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so for me training to be healthy = biking and biking = training to be healthy one of my several tools and a great one for shrinking fat cells ! ! ! I have to force myself to eat to get 3000 + caloeies a day a lot of smart food for a 55 yr old man . . . .lol ! Now and since I started with my bike I see I will have to change my macros to have more caebs and even more calories
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any back pack or added weight is kewl just makes the challange a little greater fro the ride that day and challange is good
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I don't really thin the pads are wore out but possibly have gotten hard afer sitting for ehat I found had been 4 years and ony an occosaional park ride with the kids ? Just started healthy life style change a little over a year ago and improve on it in some way every day
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Quote: Originally Posted by BuzzardMarine .
lol
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No I started back cycling as a result of healthy life style and training and not so much for love of cycleing - lol
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no I am from USA and we stll use lbs not Ltrs and I was a little of topic and thinking lb of a heavy bag with regards to training ie. cycling .

I was talking about an Everlast bag you hit / punch and how the one I found for a good deal was 30 lbs lighter than the 100 lb heavy bag I had wore out beat the stuffing out of lol ! I wear about 1 100 lb bag out every 2 years and this one is like new and only $45.00 including mount and spare pair of bag goves almost like MMA gloves / just enough padding to prevent your knuckles from bleeding
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so for me training to be healthy = biking and biking = training to be healthy one of my several tools and a great one for shrinking fat cells ! ! ! I have to force myself to eat to get 3000 + caloeies a day a lot of smart food for a 55 yr old man . . . .lol ! Now and since I started with my bike I see I will have to change my macros to have more caebs and even more calories
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any back pack or added weight is kewl just makes the challange a little greater fro the ride that day and challange is good
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!


I don't really thin the pads are wore out but possibly have gotten hard afer sitting for ehat I found had been 4 years and ony an occosaional park ride with the kids ? Just started healthy life style change a little over a year ago and improve on it in some way every day
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I get it now... You mean one of those boxing punching bags... I have no idea for these...

Yeah... pads are cheap anyway... You can get some of the best stuff around for 20euro or something... and since these are alloy rims you wont need cork pads or stuff. Some brands that have lots of positive references are "Koolstop" and "Swisstop" (with the latter being a bit crazy expensive...). I am using a pair of tektros that came with the bike at the moment. I brake alot and I have about 3100km on the bike and they are still not worn out. The rims seem fine too. But they are not that great in the rain... But I was used to roller brakes before which brake even in space!
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so maybe they are good...

Btw... I forgot... never skim on cables...
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You will most definately regret it!
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...especially if you are heavy... Check the brakes -very- well...
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You can DIY cables and brake pad maintenance but maybe you wanna check with a bike shop for setting up the bike brakes. They usually have torque wrenches and the cables will be secured with the correct torque force.
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