rec.sport.unicycling archive · Public discussion

my cranks broke

Started by Die-Hard Uni · · Last activity · 11 posts · 1,681 views

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rec.sport.unicycling archive
Published
5 July 2004
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5 July 2004
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Die-Hard Uni
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  1. just recently, my'Nimbus X Alloy Crank arms'
    (unicycle.comshopexd.asp) broke.
    i was wondering if anyone new of some strong, yet somewhat
    affordable, new crank arms. I am looking for ones that can
    withstand jumping and doing drops.

    --
    die-hard uni - 24-inch CRUISIN'

    "I already gave my best. I have no regrets at all." -William Hung
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  2. I am interested to know what you were doing when they broke,
    in what way they broke, and how they were installed on the
    uni. Also what length cranks are they?

    Do you have any pictures that you could post?

    --
    U-Turn - Member of Generation XO

    Weep in the dojo... laugh on the battlefield.

    '29er Tire Study' (u-turn.unicyclist.com29erTireStudy)

    'Strongest Coker Wheel in the World'
    (unicyclist.comalbup39)

    'New York Unicycle Club' (newyorkunicycle.comnewyorkunicycle.com)

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  3. The way that they broke is they got stripped. I was just
    riding when I noticed they were stripped, but I think it
    happened from too many drops and too much hopping. Doing
    drops and hopping is the kind of thing I like doing, which
    is why I need stronger cranks.

    --
    die-hard uni - 24-inch CRUISIN'

    "I already gave my best. I have no regrets at all." -William Hung
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  4. unless you invest in something expensive, like kookas, you
    shall find that all the other [square tapered] crank arms
    will perform similarly. my suggestion is that you make the
    investment and buy a splined hub and crank set. i went
    through six pairs of crank arms on my muni with suzue hub (i
    am riding the nimbus x's now). since i usually ride my onza
    trials now, my muni's crank arms have had a much needed
    break. unless you would prefer to dish out 35 bucks every
    few months for replacement crank arms, get a splined setup.

    --
    muniracer - Hell On Wheel

    The Hell on Wheel Unicycle Gang owns you!!

    unicyclist.comalbuq25
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  5. die-hard uni said:

    *The way that they broke is they got stripped. *

    What part stripped? Did the pedal threads strip (where
    the pedal screws in to the crank)? Did it start wobbling
    on the hub?

    --
    john_childs - Guinness Mojo

    john_childs (at) hotmail (dot) com
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  6. That's exactly what happened, the pedal threads stripped.

    --
    die-hard uni - 24-inch CRUISIN'

    "I already gave my best. I have no regrets at all." -William Hung
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  7. die-hard uni said:

    *That's exactly what happened, the pedal threads
    stripped. *


    Then the hops and drops probably had nothing to do with it;
    you probably used too much torque to tighten the pedals.
    What kind of wrench did you use?

    The use of blue loctite on the pedal threads assures that
    the pedals won't unscrew even if you just tighten them until
    they are snug. There's not really any need to honk them down
    real hard.

    uni.com is extremely liberal with their returns policy and
    I'm sure they'd replace them for you under warrantee. It
    would also be reasonable to assume the liability yourself,
    based on the above analysis.

    --
    U-Turn - Member of Generation XO

    Weep in the dojo... laugh on the battlefield.

    '29er Tire Study' (u-turn.unicyclist.com29erTireStudy)

    'Strongest Coker Wheel in the World'
    (unicyclist.comalbup39)

    'New York Unicycle Club' (newyorkunicycle.comnewyorkunicycle.com)

    -- Dave Stockton
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  8. If the pedal threads BOTH stripped, one obvious possibility
    is that you had the cranks on the wrong sides. I made that
    mistake and the pedals unwound and ruined the thread on one
    of the cranks.

    The threads wind in opposite directions.

    I can see no obvious reason why drops would strip the
    threads.

    --
    Mikefule - Roland Hope School of Unicycling

    Some days you're the fly; some days you're the windscreen. When you're
    the fly, you get to eat [censored].
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  9. GREASE GREASE and more GREASE.....

    If you grease down all threads the chance of stripping
    anything is greatly deminished. You should have a big tub of
    grease on your workbench at all times! 🙂

    --
    zod - Icey Hot Stunta(z)
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  10. Sounds like either the cranks were on the wrong sides, or
    the pedals were just allowed to be loose while you
    continued to ride.

    Make sure the right-hand threaded crank is on the right side
    when you ride, and check your pedals every once in a while
    for tightness. Then they should last until the axle breaks!

    --
    johnfoss - Walkin' on the edge

    John Foss, the Uni-Cyclone
    "jfoss" at "unicycling.com"
    www.unicycling.com

    "We choose to go to the Moon in this decade and do the other things, not
    because they are easy, but because they are hard." -- John F. Kennedy,
    1961
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  11. And be very careful when threading the pedals in aluminum
    cranks. The aluminum threads are not as strong as steel
    threads and they can be stripped if the pedals are threaded
    on cross-threaded. Cross-threading is where the threads do
    not sync up properly when you start threading on the pedal.
    You're threading the pedal on across the grain. It's
    amazingly easy to do.

    When you start threading the pedals on you need to use your
    fingers. Don't use a wrench. By using your fingers you'll
    be able to feel when the threads are lined up and your
    fingers can't generate enough force to cross-thread. Use
    your fingers to get a couple revolutions and then you can
    use the wrench.

    Again, it's amazingly easy to cross thread a pedal.
    Especially with aluminum cranks, but it's also possible with
    steel cranks. Be careful.

    And the pedal threads should be greased.

    --
    john_childs - Guinness Mojo

    john_childs (at) hotmail (dot) com
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