rec.sport.unicycling · Public discussion

my cranks broke

Started by die-hard uni · · Last activity · 11 posts · 351 views

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
21 May 2004
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22 May 2004
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die-hard uni
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  1. just recently, my'Nimbus X Alloy Crank arms'
    (http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=754) broke. i was
    wondering if anyone new of some strong, yet somewhat affordable, new
    crank arms. I am looking for ones that can withstand jumping and doing
    drops.

    --
    die-hard uni - 24-inch CRUISIN'

    "I already gave my best. I have no regrets at all." -William Hung
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  2. I am interested to know what you were doing when they broke, in what way
    they broke, and how they were installed on the uni. Also what length
    cranks are they?

    Do you have any pictures that you could post?

    --
    U-Turn - Member of Generation XO

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  3. The way that they broke is they got stripped. I was just riding when I
    noticed they were stripped, but I think it happened from too many drops
    and too much hopping. Doing drops and hopping is the kind of thing I
    like doing, which is why I need stronger cranks.

    --
    die-hard uni - 24-inch CRUISIN'

    "I already gave my best. I have no regrets at all." -William Hung
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  4. unless you invest in something expensive, like kookas, you shall find
    that all the other [square tapered] crank arms will perform similarly.
    my suggestion is that you make the investment and buy a splined hub and
    crank set. i went through six pairs of crank arms on my muni with suzue
    hub (i am riding the nimbus x's now). since i usually ride my onza
    trials now, my muni's crank arms have had a much needed break. unless
    you would prefer to dish out 35 bucks every few months for replacement
    crank arms, get a splined setup.

    --
    muniracer - Hell On Wheel

    The Hell on Wheel Unicycle Gang owns you!!

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  5. die-hard uni said:

    *The way that they broke is they got stripped. *

    What part stripped? Did the pedal threads strip (where the pedal screws
    in to the crank)? Did it start wobbling on the hub?

    --
    john_childs - Guinness Mojo

    john_childs (at) hotmail (dot) com
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  6. That's exactly what happened, the pedal threads stripped.

    --
    die-hard uni - 24-inch CRUISIN'

    "I already gave my best. I have no regrets at all." -William Hung
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  7. die-hard uni said:

    *That's exactly what happened, the pedal threads stripped. *


    Then the hops and drops probably had nothing to do with it; you probably
    used too much torque to tighten the pedals. What kind of wrench did you
    use?

    The use of blue loctite on the pedal threads assures that the pedals
    won't unscrew even if you just tighten them until they are snug.
    There's not really any need to honk them down real hard.

    uni.com is extremely liberal with their returns policy and I'm sure
    they'd replace them for you under warrantee. It would also be
    reasonable to assume the liability yourself, based on the above
    analysis.

    --
    U-Turn - Member of Generation XO

    Weep in the dojo... laugh on the battlefield.

    '29er Tire Study' (http://u-turn.unicyclist.com/29erTireStudy/)

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    -- Dave Stockton
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  8. If the pedal threads BOTH stripped, one obvious possibility is that you
    had the cranks on the wrong sides. I made that mistake and the pedals
    unwound and ruined the thread on one of the cranks.

    The threads wind in opposite directions.

    I can see no obvious reason why drops would strip the threads.

    --
    Mikefule - Roland Hope School of Unicycling

    Some days you're the fly; some days you're the windscreen. When you're
    the fly, you get to eat [censored].
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  9. GREASE GREASE and more GREASE.....

    If you grease down all threads the chance of stripping anything is
    greatly deminished. You should have a big tub of grease on your
    workbench at all times! 🙂

    --
    zod - Icey Hot Stunta(z)
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  10. Sounds like either the cranks were on the wrong sides, or the pedals
    were just allowed to be loose while you continued to ride.

    Make sure the right-hand threaded crank is on the right side when you
    ride, and check your pedals every once in a while for tightness. Then
    they should last until the axle breaks!

    --
    johnfoss - Walkin' on the edge

    John Foss, the Uni-Cyclone
    "jfoss" at "unicycling.com"
    www.unicycling.com

    "We choose to go to the Moon in this decade and do the other things, not
    because they are easy, but because they are hard." -- John F. Kennedy,
    1961
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  11. And be very careful when threading the pedals in aluminum cranks. The
    aluminum threads are not as strong as steel threads and they can be
    stripped if the pedals are threaded on cross-threaded. Cross-threading
    is where the threads do not sync up properly when you start threading on
    the pedal. You're threading the pedal on across the grain. It's
    amazingly easy to do.

    When you start threading the pedals on you need to use your fingers.
    Don't use a wrench. By using your fingers you'll be able to feel when
    the threads are lined up and your fingers can't generate enough force to
    cross-thread. Use your fingers to get a couple revolutions and then you
    can use the wrench.

    Again, it's amazingly easy to cross thread a pedal. Especially with
    aluminum cranks, but it's also possible with steel cranks. Be
    careful.

    And the pedal threads should be greased.

    --
    john_childs - Guinness Mojo

    john_childs (at) hotmail (dot) com
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