moving my bearing

I am so confused how does a bearin get pushed out there should only be
one set of bearings on each side

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Has anyone ever used some kind of sleeve between the hub and the
bearings to eliminate this problem completely. It could be a piece of
tubing cut to the right length so that the bearings stay at the correct
distance from the hub. It could be plastic or metal tubing.

I imagine that you'd want to put grease on the axle before sliding the
sleeve on to eliminate any possibility of water collecting between the
sleeve and axle to keep rust from forming.

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One on one said:

*Has anyone ever used some kind of sleeve or washer between the hub
and the bearings to eliminate this problem completely. A sleeve could
be a piece of tubing cut to the right length so that the bearings stay
at the correct distance from the hub. It could be plastic or metal
tubing.

*

I think Torker did that with my DX.

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One on one said:

*Has anyone ever used some kind of sleeve or washer between the hub
and the bearings to eliminate this problem completely. A sleeve could
be a piece of tubing cut to the right length so that the bearings stay
at the correct distance from the hub. It could be plastic or metal
tubing.

I imagine that you'd want to put grease on the axle before sliding the
sleeve on to eliminate any possibility of water collecting between the
sleeve and axle to keep rust from forming. *

That's the way that the current splined hubs work (like Profile and KH
and Torker) except for the French hub that uses the ISIS splines.

That wouldn't work well for standard square tapered cranks. One problem
is that different cranks slip on the axle a different distance so you'd
need a custom spacer for each brand of cranks combined with each brand
of hub. And then that design would tend to push the crank off the axle
which is exactly not the thing that you want to have happen with a
square taper setup. Not a good idea for standard hubs. The Loctite
solution works well enough.

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john_childs said:

*That's the way that the current splined hubs work (like Profile and
KH and Torker) except for the French hub that uses the ISIS splines.

That wouldn't work well for standard square tapered cranks. One
problem is that different cranks slip on the axle a different distance
so you'd need a custom spacer for each brand of cranks combined with
each brand of hub. And then that design would tend to push the crank
off the axle which is exactly not the thing that you want to have
happen with a square taper setup. Not a good idea for standard hubs.
The Loctite solution works well enough. *

Wouldn't that only be the case if the washer / sleeve were placed on the
outside of the bearing.
If it was placed on the inside between the bearing and the hub, there
wouldn't be any pressure on the cranks because any pressure would be
between the bearing and the hub. There would be very little movement
because everything would be sandwiched between the bearing holders.

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One on one said:

*Wouldn't that only be the case if the washer / sleeve were placed on
the outside of the bearing.
If it was placed on the inside between the bearing and the hub, there
wouldn't be any pressure on the cranks because any pressure would be
between the bearing and the hub. There would be very little movement
because everything would be sandwiched between the bearing holders. *

That is the way that it is currently done on the square taper hubs.
There is either a slip on sleeve or a machined lip that acts as a
physical stop for the bearing when it's pressed on. But that only stops
the bearing from moving too far towards the hub. It doesn't stop the
bearing from moving towards the crank.

Very few frames are stiff enough to hold a loose bearing in place, and
those that are stiff enough are overbuilt. You can't rely on the frame
to keep a loose bearing in place.

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john_childs said:

*That is the way that it is currently done on the square taper hubs.
There is either a slip on sleeve or a machined lip that acts as a
physical stop for the bearing when it's pressed on. But that only
stops the bearing from moving too far towards the hub. It doesn't
stop the bearing from moving towards the crank.

Very few frames are stiff enough to hold a loose bearing in place, and
those that are stiff enough are overbuilt. You can't rely on the
frame to keep a loose bearing in place. *

So what you are saying is that the frame ends up flexing apart wider
because of pressure from the bearing.

In my line of work, we use bearings that have a set screw to hold the
bearing in place on the shaft. Is there a bearing manufactured that is
the correct size for the uni, that also would have a setscrew to lock it
onto the shaft? Has anyone ever looked into that?

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One on one said:

*So what you are saying is that the frame ends up flexing apart wider
because of pressure from the bearing.

In my line of work, we use bearings that have a set screw to hold the
bearing in place on the shaft. Is there a bearing manufactured that is
the correct size for the uni, that also would have a setscrew to lock
it onto the shaft? Has anyone ever looked into that? *

Yup. The frame legs flex apart due to the slipping bearing. The
bearing gets the outward force do to pedaling forces. There is more
outward force on the bearing when climbing hard or pedaling hard.

I'm not familiar with the type of bearing you describe. I can't say
whether that type of bearing would work or not.

The Loctite fix does solve the problem. Two of my unicycles have had a
slipped bearing. The first was my stock Coker and the second was my DM
freestyle uni. Loctite solved the problem and the slipping hasn't
reoccurred.

Unfortunately, when you buy a new uni it's not going to come with the
bearings Loctited on the hub. That's unfortunate.

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Hydraulic press.

Find a machine shop.

Although, they may tell you to remove the hub from the wheel first.

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'nf7-s ~ xp2400mobile'
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phil said:

*<magically returns from the wilderness>
What's left? I don't really want to replace the entire hub and rebuild
the wheel just to replace some bearings, but I'm out of ideas. *

If it's that bad, can't you just Dremel it off? I'm going to be
replacing my bearings soon too. I hope I don't run into the same
problems.

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phil said:

*<magically returns from the wilderness>
The first I eventually managed to remove, but it destroyed the bearing
puller in the process. I can't get the other one off. Neither can two
local bike shops, or a large hammer and a screwdriver poked through
the holes in the hub flange. A larger bearing puller won't fit between
the bearing and the flange. The flange also gets in the way of
attacking the bearing with a hacksaw.
*

If you're up this way any point soon, I've got the Bearing Puller of
Doom that would probably do it.

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=040210249

If you can find a car garage that has a combined bearing separator +
puller that's what it is and it works well (at least with suzue hubs it
does). A bit slow as you have to bolt on the separator nice and tight,
then fit the puller then do the actual removing, but pretty heavy duty.

Joe

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joemarshall said:

*If you're up this way any point soon, I've got the Bearing Puller of
Doom that would probably do it.*

I dunno, it was something very similar that made the ultimate sacrifice
for the first bearing. The two bolts of the bearing separator are now an
interesting curvy shape.

On the other hand my puller and separator cost an awful lot less than
£35, so maybe they just weren't up to the job.

I think attacking it with a dremel may be the best way forward. I've
always wanted an excuse to own one of those... 🙂

Phil

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Your going to need a diamond tool attachment for that steel.
(I'm betting on that 😄 )
Or you going to ruin alot of regular cutters to get it off.

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'nf7-s ~ xp2400mobile'
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my will to live was stronger than my will to die. - iggy pop
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