Mongoose Randonneur LE Pro

thomas_cho said:

Hi all,
I just got this frame to build it up as a touring/commute bike.

For those that have this frame, can you tell me what is the FD clamp size? I measured mine to be 31.8, same as the seatpost clamp diameter.

Before I order in my parts I just want to make sure that I have the right diameters.

I am also not decided on the crankset gearing as yet. What are your suggestions? I want to go with 26/38/48 XT crankset. However, I noticed that most MTB derailleurs can only handle max 44 teeth. Do I need the road FDs?

Thanks

Thomas, a 26T granny ring is a bit big for a serious touring bike. I'd vote for 22/32/44. My current tourer has 24/36/46, and is fine for commuting, but if I were being given a new crankset I'd go smaller.

Hi Arte,
I have been trying out my wife's bike which has the 22/32/44 chainrings with a 11-34 cassette. I find that I can get a low enough gearing with the 32/34, of course I have not added a 20kg load to the bike.

I will try and do some more testing on a loaded bike to get an idea of the gearing range.

Do you know what bottom bracket spindle length to use? I did not realise that MTB BB have 113mm and 118mm spindle lengths.

Thanks

thomas_cho said:

Hi Arte,
I have been trying out my wife's bike which has the 22/32/44 chainrings with a 11-34 cassette. I find that I can get a low enough gearing with the 32/34, of course I have not added a 20kg load to the bike.

I will try and do some more testing on a loaded bike to get an idea of the gearing range.

Do you know what bottom bracket spindle length to use? I did not realise that MTB BB have 113mm and 118mm spindle lengths.

Thanks

Thomas, did you mean the Hollowtech II XT crankset? If so, you don't need to worry about bottom bracket spindle lengths.
If you've got an older XT crankset, then use Sheldon Brown's site to match the spindle length to the crankset that you have.

sheldonbrown.combbsize.htmlOpen ↗

Pick the shorter spindle to minimise your q-factor, unless you think that that will put your chainrings too close to the chainstay or mess with your chainline too badly.

I would also be inclined to use a long-cage road RD and go 12-27 or 12-28 on the rear, to minimise big gaps between gears, which are a bugger when you're tired and loaded.

The crankset I am looking at buying are the octalink ones.

Thanks for the link, will check it out.

Why would you choose a road deraileur over the MTB one? I would have thought that the MTB ones were built for toughness and durability, and those are qualities you might want on a touring bike.

I agree with getting a cassette that has closer spacing. Might run some numbers on a gear calculator to see the gear range that I can get.

thomas_cho said:

Why would you choose a road deraileur over the MTB one? I would have thought that the MTB ones were built for toughness and durability, and those are qualities you might want on a touring bike.

An MTB RD will take a 12-27 fine, the only problem I can think of with this is that you may have more chain showing than you need - not usually a problem anyway, since the long cage will take it up nicely.

Weight isn't a huge consideration for this purpose, so let's not mention the 50 or so grams that would be saved from a lighter road RD and a few less chain links 😉

If it were me, I would lean towards an MTB RD - that way you "could" switch out for a 32T or 34T cassette *if* required without too much hassle.I once ran a commuter bike with 22/32/44 and 13-25 on the rear with a chain set up for a 11-32T rear - chain length wasn't ideal, but it worked!

FWIW, some claim to be able to use an 11-32 with a long cage road RD (specced to max out at 27T). I have never tried it myself so can't verify.

n

Why are you not preferring the Hollowtech II set-up?

I guess a mountain RD would work with a 12-27 - the thought hadn't occurred to me.

Perhaps I should have stressed that I think that the ideal touring bike needs a small granny chainring because it has a narrow-spaced cassette with a relatively small biggest sprocket.

Arte,

Octalinks are cheaper at the moment. But I am reconsidering it.

Any recommendations for tyre choice?

Anyone tried Vittoria Randonneurs?

thomas_cho said:

Any recommendations for tyre choice?

Anyone tried Vittoria Randonneurs?

My next bike will be a touring bike for both touring and commuting, could be a cannondale or mongoose, just don't know at this stage, depends on dollars but the mongoose is looking good given that it's half the price of the cannondale. Apparently mongoose are bringing out a steel framed tourer which will be interesting to see. Refer link below.

cyclingforums.comt387737.htmlOpen ↗

For gearing have a look at the Cannondale T2000, they make farily serious off the shelve touring bikes.

As far as tyres go their are so many good ones around for touring bikes. The Randonneurs and the Schwalbe Marathon Plus get good reviews from other forums. I currently running Panracer Pasala tyres on my beater and they are great.

Dancier said:

For gearing have a look at the Cannondale T2000, they make farily serious off the shelve touring bikes.

I think that they've got the wrong gearing strategy for a loaded tourer. You don't need a tall top gear on a loaded tourer, you need a short bottom gear and narrow gear spacings. 11-34 offers BIG spacings - you'd spend all your time hunting for the right gear.
Hence I recommend MTB front gear and rear 12-27/28. When you're rolling faster than 45km/h, you just sit up, get your breath and enjoy the view.

thomas_cho said:

Arte,

Octalinks are cheaper at the moment. But I am reconsidering it.

Any recommendations for tyre choice?

Anyone tried Vittoria Randonneurs?

My limited experience with Octalink, only 12,000 km or so, suggests that the BBs don't last as long as square taper BBs. I've been told that it's because the ball bearings are smaller on account of the wider axle.
Hollowtech II should offer greater longevity, as the bearings should be larger, but I've only a few hundred km on my new XT crankset, so can't offer an informed opinion.