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loose cranks

Started by Ken Cline · · Last activity · 6 posts · 445 views

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01 / Original postloose cranksKen Cline · 12 Oct 2004 02 / This pagePosts 1–6Page 1 of 1 · chronological order 03 / Latest replyPost #6Ken Cline · 12 Oct 2004

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Original section
rec.sport.unicycling
Published
12 October 2004
Last activity
12 October 2004
Original author
Ken Cline
Posts
6
Discussion status
Public discussion
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445
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0
Topics
Taper and peaking

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  1. Original post
    Ken Cline
    Archived post
    #1

    Help! I can't seem to keep square taper cranks from coming loose. I
    have to tighten (45 ft-lbs) the bolts every time I ride. I'm on my
    fourth set of cranks (two aluminum, two steel). Some have been
    pressed on with a bar clamp. I even heated one set of cranks and
    cooled the hub before installation for a very tight fit. I've used
    loctite on the threads, and when that didn't work one one unicycle, I
    switched to anti-sieze on the next one I built.

    I'm tempted to blame the hubs (both the same brand), but Unicycle.com
    says they haven't heard any complaints. They offered to replace both
    hubs, but I'd like to figure out what's wrong before rebuilding the
    wheels.

    I don't think I ride these unicycles hard enough to need splined
    cranks: They are used for freestyle, transportation, hopping up curbs,
    riding down stairs, and drops of 18" or less; I weight 178 lbs.
    Besides which, splined hubs don't seem to have short (125mm, 110mm)
    cranks available.

    Any ideas or recommendations?

    aTdHvAaNnKcSe

    Ken

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  2. john_childs
    Archived post
    #2

    What's the hub? Suzue? Unicycle.com Chromoly? Semcycle XL?

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  3. maestro8
    Archived post
    #3
    Ken Cline said:

    *
    ...
    I don't think I ride these unicycles hard enough to need splined
    cranks
    ...
    Ken
    *

    If you've gone through three sets of square tapered cranks, you -are-
    riding hard enough to need splined cranks!

    There's no way around it. The square taper on your hub is an
    unfortunate by-product of the bicycle industry. This design is not
    suitable for the lateral strains induced by unicycle riders.

    --
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  4. Ken Cline
    Archived post
    #4
    john_childs said:

    What's the hub? Suzue? Unicycle.com Chromoly? Semcycle XL?

    Both hubs are both Unicycle.com Chromoly. The aluminum cranks were
    really cheap (one came from a Sun and was suspect from the start), but
    the steel cranks are Bicycle Euro and Semcycle.

    Ken

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  5. john_childs
    Archived post
    #5
    Ken Cline said:

    *Both hubs are both Unicycle.com Chromoly. The aluminum cranks were
    really cheap (one came from a Sun and was suspect from the start), but
    the steel cranks are Bicycle Euro and Semcycle.

    Ken
    *

    Had all of the cranks been used before on other hubs?

    If the cranks had been used on a different brand of hub, it is possible
    that the tapers on the cranks got formed to fit the old hub and now
    don't agree with the UDC hub. Not all hubs and cranks have exactly the
    same taper. The tapers can be slightly off or slightly different.

    I don't have any experience with the Unicycle.com hub. Perhaps someone
    who has used the UDC hub can comment on how well different cranks fit on
    it.

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  6. Ken Cline
    Archived post
    #6

    Only one pair of cranks had been used on a different hub, the rest
    were brand new.

    If there is a particular brand of crank that works best with the UDC
    hub, I'd be happy to switch. Unfortunately, there don't seem to be
    many choices in the 110m length.

    Ken

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