Lollipop holder troubles, help?

I would like a better description or, even better, a photo. If you
tighten this assembly and it becomes difficult to rotate it may be that
you are compressing the inner race and outer race of the bearing with
the same spacer. On any one side of the bearing, the inner race and the
outer race should never touch the same spacer (or any other surface for
that matter) at the same time. Also, by thin spacer do you mean spacer
with small outer diameter or spacer with small axial thickness? This is
why a better description, a diagram, or a photo would be helpful.

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Update:

After fiddling around with the wheel and lollipops a bit, it was made
totally clear to me that the lollipops' outer sides can not be touching
any spacers at all, so it can have smooth bearing movement.

I think it's sorted, except all I can think of that I need right now
are a few more extra-thin Profile spacers.

Hmm... I never knew Lollipops could be so much hassle.

EDIT: Harper, I know it's very vague, but it's something that Profile
hub owners would know about, because Profile cranks are supposed to be
used with Profile's own spacers. These spacers are small silver rings
that come in two thicknesses: normal and thin.

I've figured out how to fix the problem, I think. All I need is another
thin spacer to do it. Shame no shops nearby stock them.

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'[image: http://img48.imageshack.us/img48/9748/dscn2489um4.jpg]'
(http://imageshack.us)

'[image: http://img48.imageshack.us/img48/6827/dscn2490vq0.jpg]'
(http://imageshack.us)

'[image: http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/4391/dscn2491el6.jpg]'
(http://imageshack.us)

'[image: http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/7569/dscn2492zn2.jpg]'
(http://imageshack.us)

Ok, pictures, very very bad quality. But you get the idea...

Basically, first 2 pictures show different sides of one lollypop. Then
on the last picture, you can see there is a small gap between the
lollipop and the crankarm, I made it like this on purpose so that
nothing rubs against the lollipop.

How do people manage to use splined cranksets on lollipop frames?
Anyone know how Dan Heaton or Zack Baldwin coped with their lollipops
and profiles?

The crankarm on the last pic there is tightened on fully so the bolt is
actually pressed against the axle end. I can't use any spacers in
between the lolly or crankarm because it will cause rub meaning the
wheel won't rotate on the bearings.

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Thanks for the photos. You need a spacer with ID equal to the ID of the
bearing inner race (or about 0.001"-0.005" larger) and OD equal to the
OD of the bearing inner race. This way the crank bears on the spacer
and the spacer bears on the inner race. The thickness of the spacer
must be such that the crank bolt doesn't bottom when tightening it. You
know all this by looking at it. Can you machine the spacers? Do you
know someone who can? Can you buy washers of the appropriate size to
stack? The material here is relatively unimportant but I would avoid
mild steel or zinc plated steel just because it rusts. Brass, aluminum,
or stainless would be fine.

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harper

-Greg Harper

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Thanks Harper,

but, I don't think that can work. If you look at the last 2 pictures,
you see that the lollypop actually covers right over the bearing. This
means that there is no bearing race exposed on the outer side sadly. So
effectively, the lollypop is a metal barrier between the bearing and
the spacer/crankarm.

EDIT: I think you meant the in-side of the lollypop where the bearing
race is exposed. There is indeed a spacer there lodged between the hub
flange and the lollypop, but on the outer-side it is completely
shielded and there is no bearing race exposed so if anything touches
the lollypop, then it stops rotation of the wheel, hence why I need a
gap between the crankarm and the lollypop

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Sponge said:

If you look at the last 2 pictures, you see that the lollypop actually
covers right over the bearing. This means that there is no bearing race
exposed on the outer side sadly. So effectively, the lollypop is a
metal barrier between the bearing and the spacer/crankarm.

EDIT: I think you meant the in-side of the lollypop where the bearing
race is exposed.

Wow. That's crazy. The photos were a bit fuzzy but I thought that the
inner race was exposed on the outside.

I did mean the outside of the bearing, not the inside, or hub side.
That really seems like a dumb way to make the lollipops for use with
splined axles. For a taper it would be OK because the crank isn't being
pressed onto that surface.

I would press the bearing out if possible and bore the lollipop so that
you can access the inner bearing race. But that's just me. I've got
access to the machine tools to do it.

The inner race has to be exposed somewhat to allow it to work at all.
That is the bore of the lollipop must be bigger than the ID of the
inner race. Do you know how much that is? If you can make a tube spacer
that is not too thin walled it would work. If you only have something
like 0.010" (0.25mm) then there's not enough for you to work with to
make a strong enough spacer.

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-Greg Harper

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I was actually thinking of doing something like bore-ing the lollipop.
But yes, it would indeed work better by far. The thing is, is it a
quick and easy job? I may just have to browse through Yellow Pages and
see if any places would do it.

Harper, what kinds of places specifically, (aside from universities)
would have such machinery to bore lollipop holes? If there is such a
place that can offer service to the public, is it an expensive job?

Thanks

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Any machine shop can do it but it would cost quite a bit. Sometimes the
guys that work there will do it for free if you ride for them. It
depends on how nice they are and what kind of mood they're in. Just
find a machine shop close by and take the unicycle there and tell them
what you want done. If you're lucky, they'll do it for grins.

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That frame is designed (I use the term looslely) to work with a tapered
axle and not on that requires the cranks to be tight to the flanges.
You'll nee to bore the lollipops out. It doesn't need to be exact so
you could use a file or a dremmel. If you are passing bristol in the
near future I could pop them on the lathe or mill.

nick

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Sorry if I'm being an [censored], but why not use a different frame? Or is it
some special really nice custom frame you're really attached to that
happens to have lollipop bearing holders? I've only ever seen really
cheap nasty frames (and Pashleys) with lollipops...

But otherwise I agree with Nick - if you can't find anybody to machine
them for you, just file them out - if they're aluminium it shouldn't
take you too long to enlarge the holes enough to be able to put a
spacer up against the bearing inner race. You could do it faster and
more neatly with a tapered reamer like 'this one'
(http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/000632.php) if you can borrow one
or buy a cheap one.

Rob

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... or a step drill

http://tinyurl.com/yqymh7

[image: http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/images/Heller/925.jpg]

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Thanks for the replies again, guys.

I actually thought of filing a bigger hole in the lollipops. I 'kinda'
already have a marker/guide for where to stop filing because of the
marks that spacers have made on the lollypop surface. So I am assuming
to keep filing until I reach maybe 0.5mm larger diameter than the marks
that the spacers have made.

The lollypops are steel, so it will take a fair while with a file. I'm
using a longish one with a rounded surface too.

My main problem now is actually getting the bearings out of the
lollypops. People have suggested using bearing pullers, but are there
any other options that can be done straight at home?

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I'm now after a method to remove the bearings themselves from the
lollipops. I've read up on Harper's 2 methods in a related thread, but
I want to save the lollipops, (I couldn't care less about the bearings
as they are so easy to obtain)

So, will some weird and wonderful tool over at Unicycle.com UK be able
to carefully remove the bearings? Note: The lollipops with bearings
inside, slide off the axle nice and fine, so -all I'm after -is a way
to remove the bearings themselves from the tight clutches of a
lollipop.

Evercraft bearing puller? Hammer and chisel? Anything?

Another method I thought of was the drill 3 small holes in the lollipop
in the marked area made by spacer-rub. Then maybe put some metal
sticks of some sort into these holes and hammer the bearing out by
having those sticks smack against the inner bearing race.

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Sponge

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i know i know!!!
pull them off like a skateboard
seat the bearing on the axle so that it is flush
pull sideways on the lollipop

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