ISIS Hub/Crank for Coker.

Is a splined wheel set remotely necesasary for a coker?

please forgive my ignorance🙂

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phthoruth said:

just because Kris can do it, doesnt mean its possible 🙂

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Tim Morin said:

I recently broke my hub/crank on my Coker, and I am looking to replace
it with a splined set. Has anyone out there ever put and ISIS set on a
Coker, and if so, what can you tell me. Advice needed!!!

Thanks.

you would not want any of the splined/ isis hubs for a coker right now
because they weaken the wheel because they are skinny.

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well, at least I'm not drinking my own blood, I only drink other
people's blood...

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Tim Morin said:

I recently broke my hub/crank on my Coker, and I am looking to replace
it with a splined set. Thanks.

Well which one was it, the hub or the cranks? You didn't break both at
once did you?

I believeQu-Ax has a 36" unicycle with their ISIS hub...

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forrestunifreak said:

Well which one was it, the hub or the cranks? You didn't break both at
once did you?

I believeQu-Ax has a 36" unicycle with their ISIS hub...

It's a 48-spoke setup, though.

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uni_jim said:

Is a splined wheel set remotely necesasary for a coker?

please forgive my ignorance🙂

Not in terms of strength. It might be handy in terms of
standardisation / compatibility, though - for instance if you have
other ISIS unis. Personally, I wish I had an ISIS setup so that I
could just buy the KH double-drilled cranks rather than going through
the hassle of getting cotterless ones diddled with at the bike shop.

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pedals!
Mark: To answer a question with a question: What use is a skateboard?
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mornish said:

you would not want any of the splined/ isis hubs for a coker right now
because they weaken the wheel because they are skinny.

You can get a splined hub that is just as wide as the Suzue hub, and
thats plenty wide enough. Talk to Ken or a few other riders if you have
doubts. I'm pretty sure its 100 mm wide which is the same as the KH hub
if I'm not mistaken.

I would recomend staying away from the Koxx-one hubs as they seem to be
a bit smaller (at least it looks like that) and the KH ones are larger,
I would recomend going with the Kh hub and whatever cranks you wanted,
the Kh hub is the most versatile I think. I'm pretty sure all ISIS
cranks can fit onto it including Koxx-one (which Spencer tested for us
if anyone doubts me).

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The KH Moment ISIS hub flanges are about 74mm apart, not 100mm. 100 is
the accepted standard for "wide" hubs, meant for the bigger rims. Not
that a 74mm flange width is unacceptable for a 36er, but at that rim
size, the wider the better for wheel integrity.

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Tim Morin said:

I recently broke my hub/crank on my Coker, and I am looking to replace
it with a splined set. Has anyone out there ever put and ISIS set on a
Coker, and if so, what can you tell me. Advice needed!!!

Thanks.

Which hub did you have on the Coker? Was it the stock Coker hub or one
of the Unicycle.com hubs? Do you have a wide hub or was it one of the
standard narrow hubs?

If it was a stock Coker hub then switch to a UDC hub. The UDC hub is
stronger. If you broke a UDC hub then you're dong some impressive
Coker riding.

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ntappin said:

You can get a splined hub that is just as wide as the Suzue hub, and
thats plenty wide enough. Talk to Ken or a few other riders if you have
doubts. I'm pretty sure its 100 mm wide which is the same as the KH hub
if I'm not mistaken.

The 100mm measurement is the bearing separation, whic is standard for
most hubs except the standard Suzue hub (92mm) and the UDC extra-wide
hub (125mm).

For the strength of the wheel the flange separation is more important.
The standard Suzue hub is not that wide, with a flange separation of
62mm (same as the Koxx). The Suzue is a millimeter or two wider than
the standard hub that comes on the Coker 36", but the flange separation
on the UDC CroMo hub is 71.5mm, the KH ISIS hub is 74.5mm and the UDC
Extra-wide CroMo hub is 98.5mm.

jim

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john_childs said:

If it was a stock Coker hub then switch to a UDC hub. The UDC hub is
stronger. If you broke a UDC hub then you're dong some impressive
Coker riding.

to be fair, if he was riding a UDC wide hub it was probably defective.

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I have the newer Qu-ax 36" which is splined, I can say the narrow hub is
more of a blessing than I thought it would be... Depending on what you
do though, I can't say if I'd suggest that wheel to you... If you're
using an airfoil rim, then yeah, you can probably switch to the ISIS
splined hub/cranks as long as you get a professional wheelbuild.
Otherwise you'd probably best be off with the UDC extra wide hub and
some decent steel cranks. If you're set on getting splined, try if the
new Nimbus ISIS hub is available where you are, it will probably be the
same price as the Qu-ax hub, 29.90 EUR and get some Qu-ax aluminium
cranks to go with it, they are the lightest there are and theyre deffo
strong enough.

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DustinSchaap said:

I. If you're set on getting splined, try if the new Nimbus ISIS hub is
available where you are, it will probably be the same price as the
Qu-ax hub, 29.90 EUR and get some Qu-ax aluminium cranks to go with it,
they are the lightest there are and theyre deffo strong enough.

have you got a link to that?

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dunawan said:

why are koxx one unicycles so costly???

forrestunifreak said:

They are expensive because they use only the finest soft drink cans.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

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Another option is to get a KH Moment hub, cut it in half, sleeve the two
halves with steel tubing and re-weld it with a wider flange separation.
That way you'd have a wide ISIS hub. It does require some precision
with the alignment of the two halves when welding the sleeve in place
so that your cranks end up parallel.
Not cheap if you don't have the metalworking gear yourself, but its the
only way to get a wide splined hub currently.

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TonyMelton said:

Another option is to get a KH Moment hub, cut it in half, sleeve the two
halves with steel tubing and re-weld it with a wider flange separation.

that's the best idea ever!

edit: tim's current (broken) hub was the one just short of the longest
one (80mm?) it had seen all the abuse i gave it since the beginning of
TWNR. So 3 years or so of very aggresive riding on that hub

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Brian MacKenzie said:

that's the best idea ever!

edit: tim's current (broken) hub was the one just short of the longest
one (80mm?) it had seen all the abuse i gave it since the beginning of
TWNR. So 3 years or so of very aggresive riding on that hub

Except Roger suggested i braze rather than weld when I suggested it to
him, to avoid altering the heat treatment of the material.

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Wikipedia: (I looked because i wasn't sure what brazing was)

Brazing is a joining process whereby a non-ferrous filler metal or
alloy is heated to melting temperature (above 450°C; 842°F) and
distributed between two or more close-fitting parts by capillary
action. At its liquid temperature, the molten filler metal and flux
interacts with a thin layer of the base metal, cooling to form an
exceptionally strong, sealed joint due to grain structure interaction.
With certain metals, such as Nitinol (Nickel Titanium) and Niobium, a
low temperature eutectic can form. This leads to the bonding of the two
metals at a point that can be substantially lower than their respective
melting temperatures. The brazed joint becomes a sandwich of different
layers, each metallurgically linked to the adjacent layers. *Common
brazements are about 1/3 as strong as the materials they join because
the metals partially dissolve each other at the interface and usually
the grain structure and joint alloy is uncontrolled.* To create
high-strength brazes, sometimes a brazement can be annealed, or cooled
at a controlled rate, so that the joint's grain structure and alloying
is controlled. It is also at 1/3 strength because the metal used to
braze is usualy weaker than the other metal because it is easier to
melt and will melt first instead of them both melting.

edit...although, if both ends of the axle are inside a tube, this
doesn't really count as the same thing, there would be no need for the
sleeve/axle combo to be as strong as both ends are fairly secured in
there i guess

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Brian MacKenzie said:

edit...although, if both ends of the axle are inside a tube, this
doesn't really count as the same thing, there would be no need for the
sleeve/axle combo to be as strong as both ends are fairly secured in
there i guess

Machine the center of the hub axel to a square shape before you cut it
in half, then use square tubing to join it. Then when you braze it, you
won't have to worry about it breaking.

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Brian MacKenzie said:

edit...although, if both ends of the axle are inside a tube, this
doesn't really count as the same thing, there would be no need for the
sleeve/axle combo to be as strong as both ends are fairly secured in
there i guess

Oh i don't deny brazing is less strong, but its still pretty strong,
and this discussion was with UDC UK Roger, creator of the nimbus
frames, UDC CrMo hubs etc., he knows his stuff. Also i believe brazing
was used for the widened suzue hubs (built by TUC?) that people used
for unicycles before sotck wide coker hubs became available.

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TonyMelton said:

Another option is to get a KH Moment hub, cut it in half, sleeve the two
halves with steel tubing and re-weld it with a wider flange separation.
That way you'd have a wide ISIS hub. It does require some precision
with the alignment of the two halves when welding the sleeve in place
so that your cranks end up parallel.
Not cheap if you don't have the metalworking gear yourself, but its the
only way to get a wide splined hub currently.

'The Unicycle Factory' (http://www.tux.org/~bagleyd/unicycle_factory/)
could probably do that. He made widened Suzue hubs before the UDC wide
hub was available. He could probably do the same on the KH ISIS hubs.
It's going to be expensive. The widened Suzue hubs were $120+ USD. I
don't think he's done any work with ISIS hubs so he'll have to make a
new jig to align the two halves and that will add to the cost.

I'm not sure how the KH ISIS hub is all put together. That's going to
be a factor in figuring out how to do the widening modification.
Rodger should have sketches showing how it's put together.

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