Is there a trick to remove pedals?

miamicuse said:

Trying to replace the pedals. I have the 5/8" wrench but it won't get the
pedal off the arm even if I used a hammer to bang on the wrench! Is there
any tricks I need to be aware of? Spraying WD40 did not help any!

Provided you're certain that you're turning the wrench in the correct
direction....

Let penetrating oil soak in, then get additional torque (slipping a
length of pipe over the end of the wrench, or using a breaker bar, can
work).

also: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/stuck-pedals.html
--
Live simply so that others may simply live

miamicuse said:

Trying to replace the pedals. I have the 5/8" wrench but it won't get the
pedal off the arm even if I used a hammer to bang on the wrench! Is there
any tricks I need to be aware of? Spraying WD40 did not help any!

Should be using a 9/16" wrench. Are you sure you're turning it the correct
direction?

See:
http://draco.acs.uci.edu/rbfaq/FAQ/8i.5.html

Art Harris

Left has reversed threads, so unscrews clockwise.

I haven't met a pedal that my long Pedros headset/pedal wrench can't
unscrew without breaking a sweat.

a shy person said:

Left has reversed threads, so unscrews clockwise.

Quoted message said:

I haven't met a pedal that my long Pedros headset/pedal wrench can't
unscrew without breaking a sweat.

Just for example, my Snap-On long handled 15mm wrench has upset dents
in its flanks from tight pedal removals, some of which were successful
only after heating the crank on the kitchen stove. I also have a
couple of 15mm Campagnolo wrenches that have one jaw broken from
attempts to remove pedals.

As I said, pedal attachment is one of that last bicycle designs that
has not been addressed in more than 100 years of failure, especially
in this era of rethinking how bicycle parts might work better.
Typically gear shifting, crank attachment, brakes, head bearings, seat
posts, handlebar stems, pedals, cleats, shoes, and others. Meanwhile,
the pedal remains an orphan, still in its original form, a pain in the
crank.

Jobst Brandt

I've never had a problem with pedals, even on old bikes. Now I don't
work in a shop, so have seen only a few dozen examples. :P

I do grease the pedal threads before installing.

Is the problem caused by tighting via pedaling, or just spirited
installation?

If my pedals are easy to remove, does it mean I'm not hammering hard
enough?

landotter said:

I've never had a problem with pedals, even on old bikes. Now I don't
work in a shop, so have seen only a few dozen examples. :P

I do grease the pedal threads before installing.

bingo.

When you work on your own bike, this is probably never a problem.

When you're 'just doing a favor for a friend,' however ....
--
Live simply so that others may simply live

miamicuse said:

Trying to replace the pedals. I have the 5/8" wrench but it won't get the
pedal off the arm even if I used a hammer to bang on the wrench! Is there
any tricks I need to be aware of? Spraying WD40 did not help any!

I had the same problem not long ago. Tried the Craftsman crescent from
my toolbox, and it wouldn't budge the pedal. In fact, it was splayed out
a bit at the ends and didn't fit tightly enough. Banged the wrench with a
hammer, no dice. Squirted Liquid Wrench on the pedals, tapped, waited,
tried again, still no dice.
Next I dug out a crescent I'd found while riding, slipped a Kryptonite
lock through the closed end, fitted the resulting contraption to the
pedal, and stood in the lock as if it were a stirrup. Broke the wrench.
Desperate times call for desperate measures. I hied me up to REI,
where I asked what I was doing wrong. Mentioning heating the crank gave
their mechanic the shivers. He showed me a pedal wrench and promised it
would work. At around twenty bucks, it was cheaper than having him do the
job, and it worked, easily, the first try.

Bill

--------------------------------------------------------------
| They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little |
| temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. |
| --Benjamin Franklin |
--------------------------------------------------------------

<[email hidden]> wrote: (clip) He showed me a pedal wrench and
promised it would work. At around twenty bucks, it was cheaper than having
him do the job, and it worked, easily, the first try.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
You were lucky. When you overload a Crescent wrench, the jaws splay out,
and then when it slips, the edges of the "nut" (in this case, pedal flats)
round over. Each time you fail, you make the next failure more likely.
Eventually you reach a point where even a proper wrench won't work.

Save the Crescent wrench for the easy jobs, and NEVER, NEVER use a "cheater"
with a Crescent wrench.

someone said:

I've never had a problem with pedals, even on old bikes. Now I
don't work in a shop, so have seen only a few dozen examples.

Quoted message said:

I do grease the pedal threads before installing.

Quoted message said:

Is the problem caused by tightening via pedaling, or just spirited
installation?

Quoted message said:

If my pedals are easy to remove, does it mean I'm not hammering hard
enough?

Probably, because pedals fret in their threads and, in time, displace
any grease or oil from their interface. The only thing that can help
is a solid "lubricant" like graphite or anti-seize compound containing
soft metal flakes. These substances are less easily displaced from
the interface and can assist in loosening tight threads that have been
fretting, but in the long run even they will be displaced so that the
aluminum crank welds to the steel pedal threads.

As you can see from the events described in this thread, ultimately
only heating and torque will loosen a pedal from an aluminum crank.

Jobst Brandt

Leo Lichtman said:

Quoted message said:

He showed me a pedal wrench and promised it would work. At around
twenty bucks, it was cheaper than having him do the job, and it
worked, easily, the first try.

Quoted message said:

You were lucky. When you overload a Crescent wrench, the jaws splay
out, and then when it slips, the edges of the "nut" (in this case,
pedal flats) round over. Each time you fail, you make the next
failure more likely. Eventually you reach a point where even a
proper wrench won't work.

Quoted message said:

Save the Crescent wrench for the easy jobs, and NEVER, NEVER use a
"cheater" with a Crescent wrench.

A crescent wrench narrow enough to engage pedal shaft flats of any of
the better pedals is too small for that job anyway. In addition,
crescent wrenches are strongest when used with the movable jaw
pulling... backward from what common knowledge has told us. In that
mode the movable (weaker) jaw is loaded at its base rather than its
wobbly tip and is less failure prone.

It takes at least a 12" crescent wrench for this load and that size
will not fit on a pedal shaft, its flats being too narrow.

Jobst Brandt

Quoted message said:

A crescent wrench narrow enough to engage pedal shaft flats of any of
the better pedals is too small for that job anyway. In addition,
crescent wrenches are strongest when used with the movable jaw
pulling... backward from what common knowledge has told us. In that
mode the movable (weaker) jaw is loaded at its base rather than its
wobbly tip and is less failure prone.

I find adjustable wrenches of nearly every kind nearly useless. The
crescent I (ab)used to try to loosen that pedal was the garden variety
fixed model, open on one end, box on the other. The point, though, was
that it didn't work. The best thing about the splayed-out Craftsman is
that it has that nifty lifetime guarantee. Next time I'm at Sears, I
think I'll pick up a new one. As for the one I broke, you're right that I
was lucky I didn't round out the "nut," but OTOH I did only try that stunt
once.
Once I got the right wrench, the job was easy. And as I always say to
myself when rationalizing such a purchase, "Tools aren't an expense--
they're an investment."

Bill

------------------------------------------------
| Si hoc legere scis, nimium eruditionis habes. |
________________________________________________

In article <[email hidden]>,

Quoted message said:

A crescent wrench narrow enough to engage pedal shaft flats of any of
the better pedals is too small for that job anyway. In addition,
crescent wrenches are strongest when used with the movable jaw
pulling... backward from what common knowledge has told us. In that
mode the movable (weaker) jaw is loaded at its base rather than its
wobbly tip and is less failure prone.

It takes at least a 12" crescent wrench for this load and that size
will not fit on a pedal shaft, its flats being too narrow.

I've got a lovely 10" crescent wrench that does the trick. But
it's a very old one (my grandfather's, in fact.) On the handle,
in raised letters, it says: "James Stuart \ Welland, Ont".

It comes from a day when hand tools were well-made.*

If the pedal is particularly obdurate, a couple of sound blows with my
big rolled-rawhide mallet on the wrench handle invariably persuades
the pedal to relinquish its grip on the crank threads, without damage
to anything. I just have to have the patience to re-tighten the wrench
with each blow. Fortunately I do.

I've also found it useful to keep a set of cheap rubber pedals
on hand. Removing the first pedal is easy. The next trick is
to get the other pedal off. So I screw in a rubber pedal in the
removed pedal's place and brace it against my leg while removing
the other pedal.

cheers,
Tom

* Speaking of which, I need some old, antique gardening trowels.
The new profferings from the likes of Home Depot just bend
like wet noodles while digging out dandelions, etc.
They sure don't make tools like they used to.

--
-- Nothing is safe from me.
Above address is just a spam midden.
I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca

"miamicuse" wrote ...

Quoted message said:

Trying to replace the pedals. I have the 5/8" wrench but it won't get the
pedal off the arm even if I used a hammer to bang on the wrench! Is there
any tricks I need to be aware of? Spraying WD40 did not help any!

MC

Most pedals require a 9/16" or a 15mm wrench, and the wrench has to be thin
enough to fit onto the flats.

Auto parts stores sell various penetrating oils that are more effective than
WD-40, apply liberally and let the pedal sit for a while.

I run a tap through the eye in the crank arm to clean out the threads, clean
off the threads on the pedal thoroughly and put a small dab of grease on the
threads before installing the pedals. I use a decent quality pedal wrench
(Eldi No 61, courtesy of Rivendell Bicycle Works). since I started doing
things this way I haven't had any real trouble. I will probably follow Jobst
Brandt's advice and start using some kind of solid lubricant in the future.
--
mark

Quoted message said:

[email hidden] wrote in
news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

a shy person said:

Left has reversed threads, so unscrews clockwise.

Quoted message said:

I haven't met a pedal that my long Pedros headset/pedal wrench
can't unscrew without breaking a sweat.

Just for example, my Snap-On long handled 15mm wrench has upset
dents in its flanks from tight pedal removals, some of which were
successful only after heating the crank on the kitchen stove. I
also have a couple of 15mm Campagnolo wrenches that have one jaw
broken from attempts to remove pedals.

As I said, pedal attachment is one of that last bicycle designs
that has not been addressed in more than 100 years of failure,
especially in this era of rethinking how bicycle parts might work
better. Typically gear shifting, crank attachment, brakes, head
bearings, seat posts, handlebar stems, pedals, cleats, shoes, and
others. Meanwhile, the pedal remains an orphan, still in its
original form, a pain in the crank.

What would be a better pedal/crank coupling mechanism?

--
Mike Nitabach

use a hacksaw or a grinder

"miamicuse" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Trying to replace the pedals. I have the 5/8" wrench but it won't get the
pedal off the arm even if I used a hammer to bang on the wrench! Is there
any tricks I need to be aware of? Spraying WD40 did not help any!

MC

Michael Nitabach said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Left has reversed threads, so unscrews clockwise.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I haven't met a pedal that my long Pedros headset/pedal wrench
can't unscrew without breaking a sweat.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Just for example, my Snap-On long handled 15mm wrench has upset
dents in its flanks from tight pedal removals, some of which were
successful only after heating the crank on the kitchen stove. I
also have a couple of 15mm Campagnolo wrenches that have one jaw
broken from attempts to remove pedals.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

As I said, pedal attachment is one of that last bicycle designs
that has not been addressed in more than 100 years of failure,
especially in this era of rethinking how bicycle parts might work
better. Typically gear shifting, crank attachment, brakes, head
bearings, seat posts, handlebar stems, pedals, cleats, shoes, and
others. Meanwhile, the pedal remains an orphan, still in its
original form, a pain in the crank.

Quoted message said:

What would be a better pedal/crank coupling mechanism?

A conical shoulder on the pedal shaft, similar to automobile lug nuts,
would stop crank damage and the need for left hand threads (as it did
for cars after 1945 or so). As mentioned in this respect in the past,
making this modification ended my more than two dozen crank failures
from this problem.

http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~damerell/bikes/brandt-cranks.jpg
http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-016.html

Jobst Brandt

[email hidden] wrote in
news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

Michael Nitabach said:

Quoted message said:

> Left has reversed threads, so unscrews clockwise.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> I haven't met a pedal that my long Pedros headset/pedal wrench
> can't unscrew without breaking a sweat.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Just for example, my Snap-On long handled 15mm wrench has upset
dents in its flanks from tight pedal removals, some of which
were successful only after heating the crank on the kitchen
stove. I also have a couple of 15mm Campagnolo wrenches that
have one jaw broken from attempts to remove pedals.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

As I said, pedal attachment is one of that last bicycle designs
that has not been addressed in more than 100 years of failure,
especially in this era of rethinking how bicycle parts might
work better. Typically gear shifting, crank attachment, brakes,
head bearings, seat posts, handlebar stems, pedals, cleats,
shoes, and others. Meanwhile, the pedal remains an orphan,
still in its original form, a pain in the crank.

Quoted message said:

What would be a better pedal/crank coupling mechanism?

A conical shoulder on the pedal shaft, similar to automobile lug
nuts, would stop crank damage and the need for left hand threads
(as it did for cars after 1945 or so). As mentioned in this
respect in the past, making this modification ended my more than
two dozen crank failures from this problem.

http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~damerell/bikes/brandt-cranks.jpg
http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-016.html

Elegant solution.

--
Mike Nitabach

jobst.brandt said:

Michael Nitabach said:

Quoted message said:

> Left has reversed threads, so unscrews clockwise.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> I haven't met a pedal that my long Pedros headset/pedal wrench can't
> unscrew without breaking a sweat.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Just for example, my Snap-On long handled 15mm wrench has upset dents
in its flanks from tight pedal removals, some of which were successful
only after heating the crank on the kitchen stove. I also have a
couple of 15mm Campagnolo wrenches that have one jaw broken from
attempts to remove pedals.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

As I said, pedal attachment is one of that last bicycle designs that
has not been addressed in more than 100 years of failure, especially in
this era of rethinking how bicycle parts might work better. Typically
gear shifting, crank attachment, brakes, head bearings, seat posts,
handlebar stems, pedals, cleats, shoes, and others. Meanwhile, the
pedal remains an orphan, still in its original form, a pain in the
crank.

Quoted message said:

What would be a better pedal/crank coupling mechanism?

A conical shoulder on the pedal shaft, similar to automobile lug nuts,
would stop crank damage and the need for left hand threads (as it did for
cars after 1945 or so). As mentioned in this respect in the past, making
this modification ended my more than two dozen crank failures from this
problem.

http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~damerell/bikes/brandt-cranks.jpg
http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-016.html

After seeing this modification, it seems so obvious! I've broken a couple
of cranks myself. Your mod seems well worth doing.

How long did your cranks last before, and since?

Regarding stuck pedals, mine usually get removed a few times a year
to ship my bike. This probably keeps them from getting too tight.

Matt O.

jobst.brandt said:

someone said:

I've never had a problem with pedals, even on old bikes. Now I don't
work in a shop, so have seen only a few dozen examples.

Quoted message said:

I do grease the pedal threads before installing.

Quoted message said:

Is the problem caused by tightening via pedaling, or just spirited
installation?

Quoted message said:

If my pedals are easy to remove, does it mean I'm not hammering hard
enough?

Quoted message said:

Probably, because pedals fret in their threads and, in time, displace any
grease or oil from their interface. The only thing that can help is a
solid "lubricant" like graphite or anti-seize compound containing soft
metal flakes. These substances are less easily displaced from the
interface and can assist in loosening tight threads that have been
fretting, but in the long run even they will be displaced so that the
aluminum crank welds to the steel pedal threads.

I've used teflon tape and anti-seize in the past, but I think periodic
removal before they get too tight is the key.

You (Jobst) probably stress your cranks a lot more than most people,
being taller than average, and pushing taller gears up big mountains (out
of the saddle?). So the duty cycle is greatly accelerated.

Matt O.