Here in Florida, where the seasons change from hot and wet to hotter and wetter, cooling is to use the vernacular - huge.
I'm working on a nose cone/body sock combo for my shock proof. I want to smoothly expand the 25+ MPH air to a 10 MPH flow inside the fairing.
What I am going to try is to cut a 10" hole in the front of the fairing, and insert a nose cone which tapers at its back end. This will give the fairing a rather "Mig 21" look. The effect will be to create a "ring venturi" that expands and slows the airflow down. This should also raise the interior pressure, which is good, since I plan on having foot holes in it (the shock proof's bracket is a little low).
Here in Florida, where the seasons change from hot and wet to hotter and wetter, cooling is to use the vernacular - huge.
I'm working on a nose cone/body sock combo for my shock proof. I want to smoothly expand the 25+ MPH air to a 10 MPH flow inside the fairing.
What I am going to try is to cut a 10" hole in the front of the fairing, and insert a nose cone which tapers at its back end. This will give the fairing a rather "Mig 21" look. The effect will be to create a "ring venturi" that expands and slows the airflow down. This should also raise the interior pressure, which is good, since I plan on having foot holes in it (the shock proof's bracket is a little low).
"Tom Sherman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Robert Haston said:
Any nose fairing experts please chime in:
Here in Florida, where the seasons change from hot and wet to hotter and wetter, cooling is to use the vernacular - huge.
I'm working on a nose cone/body sock combo for my shock proof. I want
to
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
smoothly expand the 25+ MPH air to a 10 MPH flow inside the fairing.
What I am going to try is to cut a 10" hole in the front of the
fairing,
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
and insert a nose cone which tapers at its back end. This will give the fairing a rather "Mig 21" look. The effect will be to create a "ring venturi" that expands and slows the airflow down. This should also
raise
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
the interior pressure, which is good, since I plan on having foot holes
"Robert Haston" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
Any nose fairing experts please chime in:
Here in Florida, where the seasons change from hot and wet to hotter and wetter, cooling is to use the vernacular - huge.
I'm working on a nose cone/body sock combo for my shock proof. I want to smoothly expand the 25+ MPH air to a 10 MPH flow inside the fairing.
Around here, the Easy Racer riders are sewing in longer zippers on the tops of their body socks. When the going is slower and/or hotter, they unzip the top and open it up, allowing bottom-to-top ventilation.
Cutting a whopping big hole in the front of your fairing seems counterproductive. How about a big scoop that you can close off if needed? You could make the front of your fairing look something like an F-8 Crusader: http://www.air-navy.com/xf8u-1.htm Jeff
Actually, the hole would be a ring an inch or two thick, and ten inches or so in diameter, rather like a big propeller spinner, with a thin intake around it.
The general idea is to get a low velocity high pressure flow inside the nose for cooling and to increase the pressure so it doesn't suck air in the foot holes.
"Jeff Wills" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
"Robert Haston" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Any nose fairing experts please chime in:
Here in Florida, where the seasons change from hot and wet to hotter and wetter, cooling is to use the vernacular - huge.
I'm working on a nose cone/body sock combo for my shock proof. I want
to
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
smoothly expand the 25+ MPH air to a 10 MPH flow inside the fairing.
Around here, the Easy Racer riders are sewing in longer zippers on the tops of their body socks. When the going is slower and/or hotter, they unzip the top and open it up, allowing bottom-to-top ventilation.
Cutting a whopping big hole in the front of your fairing seems counterproductive. How about a big scoop that you can close off if needed? You could make the front of your fairing look something like an F-8 Crusader: http://www.air-navy.com/xf8u-1.htm Jeff
"Robert Haston" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
Actually, the hole would be a ring an inch or two thick, and ten inches or so in diameter, rather like a big propeller spinner, with a thin intake around it.
The general idea is to get a low velocity high pressure flow inside the nose for cooling and to increase the pressure so it doesn't suck air in the foot holes.
I think you'd be better off poking an appropriate size hole right at the nose, where the airspeed is already slowest, rather than trying to pull in faster-moving air and then slowing it down.
You are right. The real thing my research told me is that this air would just flow out the leg holes anyway. It seems the trick is to keep the nose narrow and have the widest point as far aft as possible.
"Jeff Wills" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
"Robert Haston" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Actually, the hole would be a ring an inch or two thick, and ten inches
or
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
so in diameter, rather like a big propeller spinner, with a thin intake around it.
The general idea is to get a low velocity high pressure flow inside the
nose
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
for cooling and to increase the pressure so it doesn't suck air in the
foot
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
holes.
I think you'd be better off poking an appropriate size hole right at the nose, where the airspeed is already slowest, rather than trying to pull in faster-moving air and then slowing it down.
"Robert Haston" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
You are right. The real thing my research told me is that this air would just flow out the leg holes anyway. It seems the trick is to keep the nose narrow and have the widest point as far aft as possible.
Well, of course I'm right. ;-)
Yeah, designing a full fairing for an HPV is a b***h. The most powerful motors are trained to spin conventional cranks, so the foot-and-crank volume ends up determining the major volume of the fairing. Unless you want to go head-first (Slovenian style: http://www.recumbents.com/wisil/whpsc2003/images/ArneHodalic/WHPSC-2003-Hodalic.htm ) you end up with something with a huge schnozz.
I do want to build a faired lowracer with a hard nose and fabric sides and tail. That's about project #4,782...
Yeah, designing a full fairing for an HPV is a b***h. The most powerful motors are trained to spin conventional cranks, so the foot-and-crank volume ends up determining the major volume of the fairing.
Mark Mueller has a GTX fully faired with 110mm cranks that allowed a much smaller nose cone.. At the spring HPV event in San Jose California, he was able to finish with a speed of about 33. He probably has some info on his website.
