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Input for redesigned Coker

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
25 January 2006
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31 January 2006
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new_coker
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  1. Is the radial 360 made by Coker or whom

    --
    Daytripper63
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  2. Daytripper63 said:

    Is the radial 360 made by Coker or whom

    We do not make the Radial 360.

    --
    new_coker
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  3. Daytripper63 said:

    Is the radial 360 made by Coker or whom

    We do not make the Radial 360.

    --
    new_coker
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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  4. new_coker said:

    Many of you are suggesting a geared Big One but just as many want the
    price to stay the same or be less.
    The idea of a geared Big One sounds awsome but I don't think many would
    pay the 1000 plus dollars that it would cost. To get a internally
    geared hub made I would need to have 500 or more made and that is about
    the number of Big Ones that we sell in three years. Look at the price
    of the Schulmp and he makes the hub himself, we would have to outsource
    the design(internal geared hubs are beyond my design experience) and
    manufactoring.

    Precisely! What would you say to simply adding a jackshaft tab to the
    right leg, such that if anyone wanted to pursue a geared wheel, at
    least the frame would be ready to accept a simple gearing jackshaft.
    Such a bracket would have no effect on the stock direct-drive wheel.
    It would add maybe an ounce and cost a few cents.

    --
    unisk8r
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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  5. new_coker said:

    Many of you are suggesting a geared Big One but just as many want the
    price to stay the same or be less.
    The idea of a geared Big One sounds awsome but I don't think many would
    pay the 1000 plus dollars that it would cost. To get a internally
    geared hub made I would need to have 500 or more made and that is about
    the number of Big Ones that we sell in three years. Look at the price
    of the Schulmp and he makes the hub himself, we would have to outsource
    the design(internal geared hubs are beyond my design experience) and
    manufactoring.

    Precisely! What would you say to simply adding a jackshaft tab to the
    right leg, such that if anyone wanted to pursue a geared wheel, at
    least the frame would be ready to accept a simple gearing jackshaft.
    Such a bracket would have no effect on the stock direct-drive wheel.
    It would add maybe an ounce and cost a few cents.

    --
    unisk8r
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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  6. thieum said:

    I'm just reprating what's been written but a geared lighter 36 incher
    could be wicked, Schlumpf sells the wheelset+frame, but it would be
    nice to get a 36 guni off the shelf.
    It would be nice to get standard strong arm rests and a set of optional
    supporting rods for light equipment at the back.

    All Schlumpf are bespoke to some extent because they are all such a
    specialised item. The selling is set up this way, it is not a problem
    for the retailer. We are trying to keep some of the parts in stock to
    have a quick turn around, but people keep on buying them! Just give me
    a call and we can sort it out for you.

    I have just been out on mine! is it certainly fast... although I need
    to put the 110 cranks on it to get the proper effect. :-D

    Roger

    --
    rogeratunicycledotcom

    ++++++++++++++++++
    Unicycle.com in the UK
    The UK's Unicycle Source
    www.unicycle.uk.com
    +++++++++++++++++++
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  7. thieum said:

    I'm just reprating what's been written but a geared lighter 36 incher
    could be wicked, Schlumpf sells the wheelset+frame, but it would be
    nice to get a 36 guni off the shelf.
    It would be nice to get standard strong arm rests and a set of optional
    supporting rods for light equipment at the back.

    All Schlumpf are bespoke to some extent because they are all such a
    specialised item. The selling is set up this way, it is not a problem
    for the retailer. We are trying to keep some of the parts in stock to
    have a quick turn around, but people keep on buying them! Just give me
    a call and we can sort it out for you.

    I have just been out on mine! is it certainly fast... although I need
    to put the 110 cranks on it to get the proper effect. :-D

    Roger

    --
    rogeratunicycledotcom

    ++++++++++++++++++
    Unicycle.com in the UK
    The UK's Unicycle Source
    www.unicycle.uk.com
    +++++++++++++++++++
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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  8. I am not the tallest person in the world, but I guess I may be some
    where near 50 persentile for riders who may be interested in riding a
    Coker. This being a mixture of male/female and teenagers.

    So I may be the shortest person who could ride a 40" with 150mm cranks
    as the seat would be butting up against seatpost clamp. I would not be
    able to ride a 42" at all unless I fitted shorter cranks. If you
    fitted an airsaddle, that would also stop me riding it.

    So if you produce a 42" unicycle with a standard design frame less that
    50% of potential customers would not be able to ride it.

    Suggest that a new frame design needs to be considered for the bigger
    wheel.

    Roger

    --
    rogeratunicycledotcom

    ++++++++++++++++++
    Unicycle.com in the UK
    The UK's Unicycle Source
    www.unicycle.uk.com
    +++++++++++++++++++
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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  9. I am not the tallest person in the world, but I guess I may be some
    where near 50 persentile for riders who may be interested in riding a
    Coker. This being a mixture of male/female and teenagers.

    So I may be the shortest person who could ride a 40" with 150mm cranks
    as the seat would be butting up against seatpost clamp. I would not be
    able to ride a 42" at all unless I fitted shorter cranks. If you
    fitted an airsaddle, that would also stop me riding it.

    So if you produce a 42" unicycle with a standard design frame less that
    50% of potential customers would not be able to ride it.

    Suggest that a new frame design needs to be considered for the bigger
    wheel.

    Roger

    --
    rogeratunicycledotcom

    ++++++++++++++++++
    Unicycle.com in the UK
    The UK's Unicycle Source
    www.unicycle.uk.com
    +++++++++++++++++++
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/46390

  10. new_coker said:

    Many of you are suggesting a geared Big One but just as many want the
    price to stay the same or be less.

    The idea of a geared Big One sounds awsome but I don't think many would
    pay the 1000 plus dollars that it would cost. To get a internally
    geared hub made I would need to have 500 or more made and that is about
    the number of Big Ones that we sell in three years. Look at the price
    of the Schulmp and he makes the hub himself, we would have to outsource
    the design(internal geared hubs are beyond my design experience) and
    manufactoring.

    I agree entirely. The argument that lead to the development of
    practical geared unicycles (does that make any sense?) was that a
    larger pneumatic tire and high quality, lightweight wheel could not (or
    would not) be built. Geared unicycles are less smooth riding, less
    stable, and less ominous looking than big wheels. They are also
    SUBSTANTIALLY more twitchy, more complicated, more expensive, and more
    fragile. They take more energy and concentration to ride. *I will
    gladly give you the design for an internally fixed geared hub for free*
    but it would tremendously increase the cost of a unicycle that you are
    trying to make available at a reasonable price to what would be a
    larger market. It's just not cost effective.

    Where would one put a 42, 44, or 48 inch unicycle? I would put it in my
    pickup truck if I needed to move it somewhere. But I'm not a student on
    a limited budget and I have a pickup truck. However, transportation of
    such an object is not the biggest problem. Afterall, the object itself
    is transportation.

    --
    harper

    -Greg Harper

    B L U E S H I F T

    *jc is the only main man. there can be no other.*

    This is still my nth post....*AWESOME!!!*
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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  11. new_coker said:

    Many of you are suggesting a geared Big One but just as many want the
    price to stay the same or be less.

    The idea of a geared Big One sounds awsome but I don't think many would
    pay the 1000 plus dollars that it would cost. To get a internally
    geared hub made I would need to have 500 or more made and that is about
    the number of Big Ones that we sell in three years. Look at the price
    of the Schulmp and he makes the hub himself, we would have to outsource
    the design(internal geared hubs are beyond my design experience) and
    manufactoring.

    I agree entirely. The argument that lead to the development of
    practical geared unicycles (does that make any sense?) was that a
    larger pneumatic tire and high quality, lightweight wheel could not (or
    would not) be built. Geared unicycles are less smooth riding, less
    stable, and less ominous looking than big wheels. They are also
    SUBSTANTIALLY more twitchy, more complicated, more expensive, and more
    fragile. They take more energy and concentration to ride. *I will
    gladly give you the design for an internally fixed geared hub for free*
    but it would tremendously increase the cost of a unicycle that you are
    trying to make available at a reasonable price to what would be a
    larger market. It's just not cost effective.

    Where would one put a 42, 44, or 48 inch unicycle? I would put it in my
    pickup truck if I needed to move it somewhere. But I'm not a student on
    a limited budget and I have a pickup truck. However, transportation of
    such an object is not the biggest problem. Afterall, the object itself
    is transportation.

    --
    harper

    -Greg Harper

    B L U E S H I F T

    *jc is the only main man. there can be no other.*

    This is still my nth post....*AWESOME!!!*
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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  12. Checkernuts said:

    The current hub has a nut holding the cranks on I believe. This is no
    good, it should be a bolt at least...

    I am going to second this emotion.

    I had a bad experience with a Coker wheel when the nut came loose
    during a ride. As the crank started it's "death wobbles" before coming
    off the hub, it managed to pry the nut against the hub's threads,
    effectively mangling them into uselessness. There was no possibility
    of fixing the threads, so I had to replace the hub.

    Had this been a bolt that came loose, I'd just have to replace the
    bolt.

    I believe part of the reason why the nut came loose was because it
    wasn't threaded on very far. Unless someone has a 20-ton press sitting
    around to help install the cranks, they're going to rely on the bolt /
    nut for providing the requisite pressure. In the case of the current
    Coker hub, one can't hand-thread the nut on 1/2 turn then start
    applying massive amounts of torque... they'll kill the threads!

    Please, please lose the "screwy" hub and follow the UDC design! We
    loves our bolts!

    --
    maestro8

    Those are my principles. If you don't like those, I have others. --
    Groucho Marx
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  13. Checkernuts said:

    The current hub has a nut holding the cranks on I believe. This is no
    good, it should be a bolt at least...

    I am going to second this emotion.

    I had a bad experience with a Coker wheel when the nut came loose
    during a ride. As the crank started it's "death wobbles" before coming
    off the hub, it managed to pry the nut against the hub's threads,
    effectively mangling them into uselessness. There was no possibility
    of fixing the threads, so I had to replace the hub.

    Had this been a bolt that came loose, I'd just have to replace the
    bolt.

    I believe part of the reason why the nut came loose was because it
    wasn't threaded on very far. Unless someone has a 20-ton press sitting
    around to help install the cranks, they're going to rely on the bolt /
    nut for providing the requisite pressure. In the case of the current
    Coker hub, one can't hand-thread the nut on 1/2 turn then start
    applying massive amounts of torque... they'll kill the threads!

    Please, please lose the "screwy" hub and follow the UDC design! We
    loves our bolts!

    --
    maestro8

    Those are my principles. If you don't like those, I have others. --
    Groucho Marx
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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  14. Checkernuts said:

    Am I the only one wondering where you are going to put a 40-46" unicycle
    wheel? It wont fit in most cars, shipping is going to be horrible and
    If you think the flywheel effect is noticable on a 36 wait till you
    have the weight of another 4-10" of tire in there + rim + spokes. It
    cant see it being that easy to turn or stop.

    Storing/transporting a bigger wheel:
    A 40" Tom Miller big wheel fits in the back seat of an (old) VW Beetle.
    That means it fits through the door. A 45" does not, hence this
    arrangement:
    http://www.unicycling.com/garage/bigwheel.htm

    So I replaced that car (for various reasons) with a Subaru wagon. It
    fits in there fine. But yes, it's big and will take up more space, both
    in the car and where stored. But it's also very visually big, which is
    the appeal of it.

    Shipping:
    Shipping could be a problem once you go beyond a certain size, and this
    is worth researching to factor in to such a project.

    Riding/turning/stopping:
    I've ridden 32", 36", 40", 45", 48" 50" 56" and 63" unicycles. You get
    what you pay for. Today's Coker *does not* ride like a 24", no matter
    what your skills or crank length. The same will be true as you go
    bigger. But on my 45" I can ride backwards, do frontspins, backspins,
    spins, pirouettes, one foot, seat out and even wheel walk. The thing is
    very rideable, but at the same time you do have to be cautious on a
    crowded sidewalk, for instance. The flywheel effect, while bad for
    emergency stops, is the thing that makes large-wheel unicycles so easy
    to ride for miles and miles without stopping or falling. It's the main
    difference between them and smaller wheels with gearing.

    Geared unicycles are cool, but at the present time they're way too
    expensive for Coker to worry about as a production item. Same goes for
    a frame mod to accommodate them. For the <1% of owners that would do
    this, an aftermarket add-on will be necessary. Sorry.

    I agree with Checkernuts and others that the hub should change to a
    bolt design. It seems the nut design is old-school; it's hard to even
    find replacement nuts in bike shops these days. The UDC wide hub is a
    bolted version, I think.

    Quoted message said:

    Alot of you say you would get a 43" wheel would you actually? I know I
    wouldnt and I'd rather get a geared 29er.

    You mean *two* 43" wheels instead of *one* geared 29er, right? 🙂 Put
    me at the top of the list for a larger-wheel Coker. I'd love to own the
    first production model. I will always be the proud owner of Tom
    Miller's big wheel #30, and used to own #20 as well.

    rogeratunicycle.com said:

    So I may be the shortest person who could ride a 40" with 150mm cranks
    as the seat would be butting up against seatpost clamp. I would not be
    able to ride a 42" at all unless I fitted shorter cranks. If you fitted
    an airsaddle, that would also stop me riding it.

    So if you produce a 42" unicycle with a standard design frame less that
    50% of potential customers would not be able to ride it.

    Roger knows his stuff. He's been selling (and making) unicycles for
    many years. He made my carbon fiber MUni. But I don't know that I agree
    with his 50%. Nobody is a potential customer if they can't fit the
    cycle, are they? Or maybe that's not fair, maybe that's tall-person
    attitude. But yes, the chosen size of a larger wheel must be a balance
    between how many people can fit it, while not being too close to the
    existing 36" size. To go only to 40", for example, is not much of a
    difference and would not attract current owners to upgrade. I think 42"
    is a good target, and am willing to help with ideas to keep the seat
    down low if you're interested.

    --
    johnfoss

    John Foss
    "jfoss" at "unicycling.com" -- www.unicycling.com
    -----------------------------------------------

    "Idiot America—where fact is merely that which enough people believe,
    and truth is measured only by how fervently they believe it." --
    Charles Pierce, in Esquire Magazine
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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  15. Checkernuts said:

    Am I the only one wondering where you are going to put a 40-46" unicycle
    wheel? It wont fit in most cars, shipping is going to be horrible and
    If you think the flywheel effect is noticable on a 36 wait till you
    have the weight of another 4-10" of tire in there + rim + spokes. It
    cant see it being that easy to turn or stop.

    Storing/transporting a bigger wheel:
    A 40" Tom Miller big wheel fits in the back seat of an (old) VW Beetle.
    That means it fits through the door. A 45" does not, hence this
    arrangement:
    http://www.unicycling.com/garage/bigwheel.htm

    So I replaced that car (for various reasons) with a Subaru wagon. It
    fits in there fine. But yes, it's big and will take up more space, both
    in the car and where stored. But it's also very visually big, which is
    the appeal of it.

    Shipping:
    Shipping could be a problem once you go beyond a certain size, and this
    is worth researching to factor in to such a project.

    Riding/turning/stopping:
    I've ridden 32", 36", 40", 45", 48" 50" 56" and 63" unicycles. You get
    what you pay for. Today's Coker *does not* ride like a 24", no matter
    what your skills or crank length. The same will be true as you go
    bigger. But on my 45" I can ride backwards, do frontspins, backspins,
    spins, pirouettes, one foot, seat out and even wheel walk. The thing is
    very rideable, but at the same time you do have to be cautious on a
    crowded sidewalk, for instance. The flywheel effect, while bad for
    emergency stops, is the thing that makes large-wheel unicycles so easy
    to ride for miles and miles without stopping or falling. It's the main
    difference between them and smaller wheels with gearing.

    Geared unicycles are cool, but at the present time they're way too
    expensive for Coker to worry about as a production item. Same goes for
    a frame mod to accommodate them. For the <1% of owners that would do
    this, an aftermarket add-on will be necessary. Sorry.

    I agree with Checkernuts and others that the hub should change to a
    bolt design. It seems the nut design is old-school; it's hard to even
    find replacement nuts in bike shops these days. The UDC wide hub is a
    bolted version, I think.

    Quoted message said:

    Alot of you say you would get a 43" wheel would you actually? I know I
    wouldnt and I'd rather get a geared 29er.

    You mean *two* 43" wheels instead of *one* geared 29er, right? 🙂 Put
    me at the top of the list for a larger-wheel Coker. I'd love to own the
    first production model. I will always be the proud owner of Tom
    Miller's big wheel #30, and used to own #20 as well.

    rogeratunicycle.com said:

    So I may be the shortest person who could ride a 40" with 150mm cranks
    as the seat would be butting up against seatpost clamp. I would not be
    able to ride a 42" at all unless I fitted shorter cranks. If you fitted
    an airsaddle, that would also stop me riding it.

    So if you produce a 42" unicycle with a standard design frame less that
    50% of potential customers would not be able to ride it.

    Roger knows his stuff. He's been selling (and making) unicycles for
    many years. He made my carbon fiber MUni. But I don't know that I agree
    with his 50%. Nobody is a potential customer if they can't fit the
    cycle, are they? Or maybe that's not fair, maybe that's tall-person
    attitude. But yes, the chosen size of a larger wheel must be a balance
    between how many people can fit it, while not being too close to the
    existing 36" size. To go only to 40", for example, is not much of a
    difference and would not attract current owners to upgrade. I think 42"
    is a good target, and am willing to help with ideas to keep the seat
    down low if you're interested.

    --
    johnfoss

    John Foss
    "jfoss" at "unicycling.com" -- www.unicycling.com
    -----------------------------------------------

    "Idiot America—where fact is merely that which enough people believe,
    and truth is measured only by how fervently they believe it." --
    Charles Pierce, in Esquire Magazine
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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  16. unisk8r said:

    Precisely! What would you say to simply adding a jackshaft tab to the
    right leg, such that if anyone wanted to pursue a geared wheel, at
    least the frame would be ready to accept a simple gearing jackshaft.
    Such a bracket would have no effect on the stock direct-drive wheel.
    It would add maybe an ounce and cost a few cents.

    I know the tabs could be added very easy and cheaply but on the
    manufactoring side there is something else that I have to deal,
    Lawyers!!

    If we put the tabs on there we are making it possible for you to gear
    the uni to go as fast as you can get it going. So when Joe Smoe adds a
    jack shaft and gears it up with a 2 to 1 and gets going some to some
    insane amount of speed and can't stop and he goes through a window of a
    coffee shop down the street! So as he is lying in a bed in the hospital
    a lawyer comes into his room and convices him he can sue and be set for
    life.

    I know that sounds like a far fetched story but I have worked in law
    offices and I know that they have someone that keeps track of stories
    in the news and sends someone to see the person to try to get them sue.
    Oh, trust me a guy going through a window on a geared 36 inch wheeled
    unicycle would make the news.

    --
    new_coker
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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  17. unisk8r said:

    Precisely! What would you say to simply adding a jackshaft tab to the
    right leg, such that if anyone wanted to pursue a geared wheel, at
    least the frame would be ready to accept a simple gearing jackshaft.
    Such a bracket would have no effect on the stock direct-drive wheel.
    It would add maybe an ounce and cost a few cents.

    I know the tabs could be added very easy and cheaply but on the
    manufactoring side there is something else that I have to deal,
    Lawyers!!

    If we put the tabs on there we are making it possible for you to gear
    the uni to go as fast as you can get it going. So when Joe Smoe adds a
    jack shaft and gears it up with a 2 to 1 and gets going some to some
    insane amount of speed and can't stop and he goes through a window of a
    coffee shop down the street! So as he is lying in a bed in the hospital
    a lawyer comes into his room and convices him he can sue and be set for
    life.

    I know that sounds like a far fetched story but I have worked in law
    offices and I know that they have someone that keeps track of stories
    in the news and sends someone to see the person to try to get them sue.
    Oh, trust me a guy going through a window on a geared 36 inch wheeled
    unicycle would make the news.

    --
    new_coker
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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  18. Checkernuts said:


    The current hub has a nut holding the cranks on I believe. This is no
    good, it should be a bolt at least, you know the width issue and it
    looks like thats being addressed.

    Amen, brother. The new UDC 100mm wide I believe uses crank bolts, not
    nuts. The old, narrower version certainly had those nasty crank nuts.

    Maestro8 picked up on that? I thought he slept at a terminal mostly.

    maestro8 said:

    I am going to second this emotion.
    Unless someone has a 20-ton press sitting around to help install the
    cranks, they're going to rely on the bolt / nut for providing the
    requisite pressure.

    I do. It's my right hand grip.

    --
    harper

    -Greg Harper

    B L U E S H I F T

    *jc is the only main man. there can be no other.*

    This is still my nth post....*AWESOME!!!*
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    harper's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/426
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/46390

  19. Checkernuts said:


    The current hub has a nut holding the cranks on I believe. This is no
    good, it should be a bolt at least, you know the width issue and it
    looks like thats being addressed.

    Amen, brother. The new UDC 100mm wide I believe uses crank bolts, not
    nuts. The old, narrower version certainly had those nasty crank nuts.

    Maestro8 picked up on that? I thought he slept at a terminal mostly.

    maestro8 said:

    I am going to second this emotion.
    Unless someone has a 20-ton press sitting around to help install the
    cranks, they're going to rely on the bolt / nut for providing the
    requisite pressure.

    I do. It's my right hand grip.

    --
    harper

    -Greg Harper

    B L U E S H I F T

    *jc is the only main man. there can be no other.*

    This is still my nth post....*AWESOME!!!*
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  20. new_coker said:

    I know the tabs could be added very easy and cheaply but on the
    manufactoring side there is something else that I have to deal,
    Lawyers!!... Oh, trust me a guy going through a window on a geared 36
    inch wheeled unicycle would make the news.

    If you put them on, with a little warning sticker by them, you could
    probably get away with it. Also maybe you could hook up with UDC and
    have them build the geared, or splined ones to order. That way they
    could just throw them together using spare bits, if anyone is willing
    to pay the price.

    And just so you know I found that story hilarious.

    I just thought of something for the cranks too. these ones only cost
    $30 and they seem really solid, and they wouldn't have the nut/bolt
    problem.[image: http://www.danscomp.com/products/CRANKS/451052.jpg]

    --
    koebwil
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