Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Giant OCR 3 for a beginner

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Cycling Equipment
Published
3 November 2003
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12 February 2004
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Amjad
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  1. I am a 42 yr old male in moderate shape.

    I will be buying my first road bike and the store near my house in Los Angeles recommended Giant OCR 3 about $550.

    I plan to ride distance on mostly paved bike paths or roads.

    I would appreciate advice for a beginner.

    www.giantbicycles.com

    color Available in Slate Blue or Black
    size XS, S, M, L, XL

    frame Extra-light ALUXX butted aluminum, Compact Road Design, Integrated Forged Headtube
    fork Aluminum Tapered, 1 1/8"

    derailleur Front: Shimano Sora, Rear: Shimano Sora

    derailleurshifters Shimano Sora,STI, 8 speed

    cranks TruVativ Touro, 30/42/52T

    pedals Steel w/resin body, toe clips/straps

    handlebar Alloy anatomic

    stem Giant adjustable, alloy A-head

    headset Integrated 1 1/8"

    brakes Tektro Dual Pivot

    levers Shimano Sora

    saddle Selle Royal Viper

    seatpost Alloy micro adjust, 27.2

    rims Alex, 32H, doublewall, black

    hubs Alloy 32H, QR, cassette

    tires Michelin Dynamic, 700x 25c

    cassette SRAM PG850 12- 26T, 8 speed

    spokes Stainless Steel, 14G

  2. Decent price, but I don't like the Sora shifters. They are not 9 speed compatible and to downshift you have to come out of the drops to hit the little button on the top of the brake level housing. You may want to explore some of the Tiagra level bikes for a bit more. Got to a bike shop and compare the Sora shift levers with the next grade up (Tiagra) or above. You'll see what I mean. You may also want to try to get a better equipped gently used bike. Often times you can get the next level up for the same price as the entry level new item.

    Good luck.

  3. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by Amjad
    I am a 42 yr old male in moderate shape.

    I will be buying my first road bike and the store near my house in Los Angeles recommended Giant OCR 3 about $550.

    I plan to ride distance on mostly paved bike paths or roads.

    I would appreciate advice for a beginner.

    www.giantbicycles.com

    color Available in Slate Blue or Black
    size XS, S, M, L, XL

    frame Extra-light ALUXX butted aluminum, Compact Road Design, Integrated Forged Headtube
    fork Aluminum Tapered, 1 1/8"

    derailleur Front: Shimano Sora, Rear: Shimano Sora

    derailleurshifters Shimano Sora,STI, 8 speed

    cranks TruVativ Touro, 30/42/52T

    pedals Steel w/resin body, toe clips/straps

    handlebar Alloy anatomic

    stem Giant adjustable, alloy A-head

    headset Integrated 1 1/8"

    brakes Tektro Dual Pivot

    levers Shimano Sora

    saddle Selle Royal Viper

    seatpost Alloy micro adjust, 27.2

    rims Alex, 32H, doublewall, black

    hubs Alloy 32H, QR, cassette

    tires Michelin Dynamic, 700x 25c

    cassette SRAM PG850 12- 26T, 8 speed

    spokes Stainless Steel, 14G


    Amjad,
    IM in the same boat as you. Just started cycling myself, and I bought almost the same bike(well by description anyway), I bought the TREK 1000. From the description, they sound about the same. I too looked inot Giant when trying to decide. I looked at Specialized. I chose Trek, just cause I was more familiar with Trek over Giant, even though I have heard that Trek ownes giant,(not sure how true that is though)
    I also chose the TREK, cause I was able to find it about 50$ less than the Giant and Specialized. And it was an 04 model also.

    As a suggestion though, and if I had to do it again, its probably what I would choose(from a begginers point of veiw of course), even though it may be around 200$ more, see what Giant, or Trek(I beleive its the 1200), comes with Shimano 105 shifters and derallieurs. In time, you may find the Sora gear on this Giant may need upgrading, and you will spend those 200 or more later anyway. Just my .02$

  4. Trek owns a lot of brands, but Giant is not one of them. It may be, though, that Giant makes some of Trek's lower-end frames at their factories (they build a frames for a number of manufacturers, as well as for themselves.)

    Anyway back to the bikes. If you've ridden mountain and comfort bikes before, you'll be impressed with the speed and efficiency of a road bike. The OCR3 has standard platform pedals with toe-clips; on such a bike you will probably want to move onto clipless pedals sooner or later. (Just something to think of, or maybe chat with the store staff about.)

    I would echo capwater's suggestions re: the shifters. Tiagra shifters work like the rest of the Shimano line-up, and are compatible with them too (this will end up saving you money, if you end up doing minor upgrades etc. further on down the road.) The OCR2 is Giant's model with Tiagra.

    Another issue is fit. When looking around at bike, make sure that you get the right size for you.. this isn't so much of a problem with compact frame bikes like the Giant, but still something to think about. You might end up finding that you just seem to "fit better" to another manufacturer's bike.

    Also, some bike stores occasionally have "new old stock" that they are trying to get rid of at a discount, so they can fill their showrooms with 2004 gear. If you're lucky enough to find one of these in your price range that fits you properly, you'll have a bargain on your hands.

  5. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by Amjad
    I am a 42 yr old male in moderate shape.

    I will be buying my first road bike and the store near my house in Los Angeles recommended Giant OCR 3 about $550.

    I plan to ride distance on mostly paved bike paths or roads.

    I would appreciate advice for a beginner.

    www.giantbicycles.com

    color Available in Slate Blue or Black
    size XS, S, M, L, XL

    frame Extra-light ALUXX butted aluminum, Compact Road Design, Integrated Forged Headtube
    fork Aluminum Tapered, 1 1/8"

    derailleur Front: Shimano Sora, Rear: Shimano Sora

    derailleurshifters Shimano Sora,STI, 8 speed

    cranks TruVativ Touro, 30/42/52T

    pedals Steel w/resin body, toe clips/straps

    handlebar Alloy anatomic

    stem Giant adjustable, alloy A-head

    headset Integrated 1 1/8"

    brakes Tektro Dual Pivot

    levers Shimano Sora

    saddle Selle Royal Viper

    seatpost Alloy micro adjust, 27.2

    rims Alex, 32H, doublewall, black

    hubs Alloy 32H, QR, cassette

    tires Michelin Dynamic, 700x 25c

    cassette SRAM PG850 12- 26T, 8 speed

    spokes Stainless Steel, 14G

    It's ok.Just don't buy it and then start throwing money into upgrades like many do. Starting with 9 speed and a carbon fork may be a better bet in the long term.

  6. I agree with these guys. The OCR3 will suit you fine; you'll enjoy it, put years on it, there's no doubt about that. If $550 is your absoulte price ceiling, give it a test-ride (along with other bikes in the same category), and if it seems reasonably comfortable, then go for it.

    You'll pass a significant value threshold, though, if you sneak up into the next level of drivetrain parts (by buying an OCR2, for instance). If you can find a model with a 9-speed drivetrain -- Tiagra shifters, drls, maybe -- you'll probably enjoy your bike a lot more for just a little more cash.

    Shop around a little. Many stores are hanging onto one, two, or even three-year-old new bikes that might have great price tags. And don't be afraid to check out lower-end Bianchis and other rigs with Campagnolo (instead of Shimano) drivetrains. I saw a slightly older Bianchi Veloce being sold new in a local shop for under $800 the other day -- quite a steal.

  7. I own a 2003 OCR3 and its been a good training bike although its a bit heavy and i trashed the wheels

    I'd suggest you buy the OCR1 or 2 if you can afford it due to the better parts, carbon forks etc

    a lot of the stuff on the OCR 3 is a dead end, in particular the 8 speed drivetrain and 1 inch fork

  8. No. I am not locked into $550 just wanted to learn as to what type of Road bikes beginners should buy without having to upgrade soon after..

  9. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by Amjad
    No. I am not locked into $550 just wanted to learn as to what type of Road bikes beginners should buy without having to upgrade soon after..


    Well, there's a strong benefit to stepping up beyond a Sora drivetrain, and to hunting for a carbon fork in the 1 1/8" format. Check out the Specialized Sequoia series, the lower-end Specialized Allez models, the Trek 1200 and 1500, the Giant OCR2 and OCR1, as well as the lower-end Cannondales and Bianchis out there. Test-ride whatever you can... good luck!

  10. I would say to think strongly about moving to the next bike up. I bought a TREK 1000, and although I have zero complaints about the bike, I wish that I would have spent the extra money for better drivetrain, and carbon forks. If you think you'll stick with it I would spend the money now, rather than upgrade later.

  11. Amjad, I just noticed your post in this thread. The riding position of most road bikes does take getting used to; the high seat, low hands posture is uncomfortable at first. You'll get used to it in all likelihood.

    On the other hand, if you feel like age might be getting the better of you and you're positive you won't be racing or tackling the Alps any time soon, there really are some great road bikes out there with slightly relaxed geometry that still move along very respectably. Take a second look at the Specialized Sequoiah line; they're pretty widely available and could be right up your alley.

    They've got carbon forks, which helps with weight and ride quality, but they've also got a bunch of little ergonomic touches like tall head tubes, shorter riding compartments, adjustable stems, gel bar tape and suspension seatposts. Ok, suspension seatposts are a bit tacky, and they're heavy, but you may like them and if you don't -- you can swap it out easily enough. Three of the models use carbon seatstays, a feature more typical on higher-end performance frames.

    With the exception of one Sora-mix model, the available drivetrains are maybe a touch on the pricier side for you (ranging from near-full 105 to an Ultegra/Dura Ace mix). But with bargain hunting, who knows? I believe they had a Tiagra model for '03. Shop around.

  12. Are you talking about a 2004 model? Because my LBS in PA has the 2003 OCR3 for $470, and the 2003 OCR2 for $550. The bike store is a chain store called "Performance Bicycle Shop", don't know whether they extend out as far as you though. But I'm just saying, I think you should look around for a better price. I was looking at the OCR2, but recently also got interested in the Fuji Newest, which is very similar. I posted a question about it here, but no one has responded, and it seems like there's not alot of info about Fuji's in general on this site. But you may want to look into their bikes to if you want something similar without a compact frame.

  13. awesome bike!! got one today, love it!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  14. Well this is the bike i'm getting when i first start riding 🙂

    And the last post said it's a good bike aswell 😄

    So ther ya have it 😄

  15. save your pennies and get a TCR composite

  16. Isnt that a bit too much to buy for a first bike though..... and for a begginer???

    Cummon... $7500 AU for that bike... whilst the OCR 3 is just $900 AU....... begginer/first biker is better of getting an OCR 3, or OCR 2 if they got the cash....

  17. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by Kez Deale
    Isnt that a bit too much to buy for a first bike though..... and for a begginer???

    Cummon... $7500 AU for that bike... whilst the OCR 3 is just $900 AU....... begginer/first biker is better of getting an OCR 3, or OCR 2 if they got the cash....


    Sure sure sure; I think he was kidding. Still, there are a few things to keep an eye out for when shopping for an entry-level bike, some of which the '03 OCR3 doesn't offer. In my opinion, even the budget-minded newbie road enthusiast is well-served to hunt for a bike that offers:

    1) A carbon fiber fork. A simple innovation which has become pretty much standard fare -- they're part of the reason modern bikes are so much lighter than the bikes of yester-year, and a ride quality mellowing-factor which counters some of the plushness lost in the lightweight-aluminum revolution. On big-name bikes, a steel fork is usually in place for cost-cutting.

    2) A 1 1/8" steerer tube and a threadless stem assembly. 1" tubes paired with threaded or quill stems are still sold on new bikes, but generally only ones well behind the tech curve. A 1 1/8" steerer with a threadless stem is, at the very least, infinitely more versatile -- there are endless upgrade and sizing changes available if you've got one. The 1" threaded steerer is a dead end.

    3) A 9-speed drivetrain in Shimano Tiagra or better (or a Campy equivalent). There's a big, big, big technology gap between the 8-speed Sora drivetrain and Tiagra, which utilizes the same basic mechanisms as Shimano 105, Ultegra, and Dura Ace (parts are largely interchangeable between these four groups). Unless you're absolutely bound to the Sora pricerange, avoid it. Consider a used bike in good condition, if it'll get you something more reliable than Sora.

    Good luck. There are tons and tons of options out there, and lots of ways to satisfy 1, 2, or all three of these basic criteria in the entry-level range -- you just need to shop around.

  18. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by lokstah
    Sure sure sure; I think he was kidding. Still, there are a few things to keep an eye out for when shopping for an entry-level bike, some of which the '03 OCR3 doesn't offer. In my opinion, even the budget-minded newbie road enthusiast is well-served to hunt for a bike that offers:

    1) A carbon fiber fork. A simple innovation which has become pretty much standard fare -- they're part of the reason modern bikes are so much lighter than the bikes of yester-year, and a ride quality mellowing-factor which counters some of the plushness lost in the lightweight-aluminum revolution. On big-name bikes, a steel fork is usually in place for cost-cutting.

    2) A 1 1/8" steerer tube and a threadless stem assembly. 1" tubes paired with threaded or quill stems are still sold on new bikes, but generally only ones well behind the tech curve. A 1 1/8" steerer with a threadless stem is, at the very least, infinitely more versatile -- there are endless upgrade and sizing changes available if you've got one. The 1" threaded steerer is a dead end.

    3) A 9-speed drivetrain in Shimano Tiagra or better (or a Campy equivalent). There's a big, big, big technology gap between the 8-speed Sora drivetrain and Tiagra, which utilizes the same basic mechanisms as Shimano 105, Ultegra, and Dura Ace (parts are largely interchangeable between these four groups). Unless you're absolutely bound to the Sora pricerange, avoid it. Consider a used bike in good condition, if it'll get you something more reliable than Sora.

    Good luck. There are tons and tons of options out there, and lots of ways to satisfy 1, 2, or all three of these basic criteria in the entry-level range -- you just need to shop around.

    Why did you do that to me for! hehe.... now I am having serious doubts about getting an OCR 3, and I am now looking at getting an OCR 2.... now I have to wait longer!! haha....

  19. hey wait a sec... i just noticed something...

    I'm talking about the '04 OCR 3!!!!

    Whereas you're talking about the '03 model!!

    Will the OCR 3 be good for what I want to do.. which is touring, and racing, on a moderate basis (max I'll most likey ride is about 150KM a week)... and I've never ridden a road bike before.... so.... yeah.... hmm... later on... can I replace the parts on the bike?? Like, get a new fork later on, and gear systems and cranks and all that??? Later on down the track?

  20. Ok, ok, calm down...

    The '04 OCR3, first of all, shares a Sora drivetrain (with a low-end TruVativ crank and Tektro brakes tossed in) and non-carbon fork with the '03 model. The steerer tube has been upgraded to a 1 1/8". which is a plus, and I think that weird adjustable stem it comes with is threadless (though it's hard to be sure at this tech level). Anyone know for sure?

    Still, I think the caveats apply. Almost any road bike is better than no road bike, so if you're really determined to buy a new ride in this price range, by all means, go for it.

    I'm just positive, though, that you can sniff around your local shops and find something (maybe a new '02 or '03 model, reduced) with a carbon fork and a better drivetrain, for the same wad of cash -- well worth it in my opinion.

    Particularly, Kez, if you're thinking of putting any real miles on this thing... which heavy touring and racing will do. You'll encounter the limitations of those corner-cutting options faster and harder if you're putting the bike to serious use.

    I'm not a certified mechanic or qualified salesperson, but I wouldn't recommend a Sora-based road bike with an aluminum fork to anyone thinking of putting more than 50 or 60 miles monthly on the thing.

    Good luck with whatever you decide!

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