Road Cycling · Public discussion

Fuji Roubaix...?

Started by brainer23 · · Last activity · 9 posts · 22,119 views

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Road Cycling
Published
15 August 2012
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23 August 2012
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brainer23
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  1. Hey guys, new here. Ive been running for a few years, but looking to get into cycling now. Just regular bike rides through hills, flats pretty much everything because I live in NY. Eventually I would like to compete in a few races. I am 5'7 145lbs and have a max price of $1500 im willing to spend on a new or used bike. Now my question is, I have been looking into bikes to buy but there is way too many out there. I spotted the Fuji Roubaix 3.0 and was wondering if it was a good bike or not? Is it upgradable if later on down the road I decide to make it better? Any other bikes new or used I should be looking into?

    Thank you, Dom

  2. Welcome to the forums, and there are a handful of bikes I can mention in your price range. Some bikes like the Specialized Allez Elite have a more aggressive geometry, while others like the Cannondale Synapse 5 is more relaxed for distance. Right now I'm riding a 2008 Fuji Roubaix Pro, and I enjoy it a lot. I find it to be a good middle ground. However, I haven't ridden the more up to date Roubaix. In the end just ride it and see how it feels, because you won't be able to enjoy the bike if you don't feel comfortable riding it.

  3. Good advice above, don't get too hung up on a specific brand or model and go out and test ride as many bikes in your price range as you can. The bike industry is very competitive, that means that for the most part if you look across the brand lines at models in a given price range you're going to find reasonably similar build quality and component quality. Unless you score a screaming end of season sale deal (distinct possibility over the next couple of months) you won't find brand X's $1500 bike to be dramatically different than brand Y's $1500 bike unless you buy a bike sight unseen online and for a first bike I definitely wouldn't recommend that approach.

    Good shops allow lengthy test rides with no obligation to purchase. If you feel like you're being pushed into a bike you don't like or a price range you're not comfortable with then visit other shops. Try to find a shop where you like the folks, they appear well equipped to deal with the inevitable mechanical issues and they appear to actually like riding bikes themselves. Test ride a lot of bikes and you'll figure out pretty quickly what bikes are the most fun for the type of riding you hope to do and what fits your price range.

    Good luck,
    -Dave

  4. crazyb1 what do you mean when you say more aggressive geometry?

    I plan on going to my local bike shop tomorrow to see what they have to say and I will let you know what happens!

    Pretty much all the Roubaix are in my price range besides the SL. What are the biggest differences between the 1.0 2.0 and 3.0? Is it worth the price difference or should I use that money towards better gear?

  5. The differences between the various Fuji Roubaix models are mostly component choices as in things like the shifters and wheelsets that come with the bikes, some of those are small differences and some not so small.

    The SL and 1.0 come with a full carbon fork as opposed to carbon fork legs bonded to an alloy steer tube. Not a deal breaker but the full carbon will be lighter and is a more expensive component. Realistically it's not the kind of thing you'll likely notice while riding the bike although many folks might try to convince you of the mythical properties of carbon pieces. They're nice, they're expensive, they're light but some of my favorite bikes have steel or alloy forks and or steer tubes so I wouldn't shell out a ton of cash for just a full carbon fork.

    The 2.0 and 3.0 models are equipped with 9 speed drive trains which are less expensive than the 10 speed drive trains (number of rear cogs) on the 1.0 and SL models. Again it's not a make or break deal but the extra cogs are nice and more modern.

    The wheelsets are different and the more expensive models have somewhat nicer wheels mounted but none of these bikes ships with radically high end wheels and they're all decent for the price. Besides wheels are really easy to upgrade down the road if you want to get something aero or fast.

    Basically as you go up in price you get some nicer parts including wheels and front forks but any of these bikes would be very appropriate for training, long days in the saddle or even getting into racing.

    In terms of geometry and 'aggressiveness' not all road bikes are built the same. Changes in things like wheelbase length, seat and head tube steepness, bottom bracket height, fore aft weight distribution, and front end designs impact overall feel and handling of the bike. Some bikes feel very quick, will initiate turns with just subtle shifts of weight and are designed to be ridden fast in situations like racing and fast group riding. These bikes tend to be very responsive to the rider's inputs whether it's feeling very responsive when a rider jumps up to sprint or quickness handling the bike in high speed pack riding or big mountain descending situations.

    Other bikes are a tad more relaxed in their geometries can feel more stable can feel easier to ride in a straight line without a lot of attention or may feel easier to ride no hands for instance while eating or drinking on longer rides. In general these bikes might not feel as 'quick' though a good rider can make them go plenty 'fast' they may not dart in and out of holes in a big racing pack quite as quickly or not feel as quick to dive into a tight race corner at speed. More relaxed bikes often feel a bit softer over bumpy pavement or less than perfect roads but that often has more to do with tires and tire pressures than the bikes themselves.

    Bottom line, not all bikes will feel the same when ridden so ride multiple models to feel this for yourself and see which style you really enjoy. You may not love a more relaxed bike or it may be just what you're after and make you feel confident about going out on long rides. No one can say but you so ride different bikes, different brands and different models in your general price range and buy the one that you really fall in love with.

    -Dave

  6. Wow thank you for explaining all of that I greatly appreciate it. This is by far the best forum I have ever been to! Going to the LBS tomorrow, will let you know what happens.

  7. Regarding "aggressiveness" of geometry, the Allez an Fuji Roubaix frames are really quite similar. The Allez does have more up-to-date performance oriented features, though, like the square seat tube and tapered head tube.

    In the innovation race Specialized tends to be a leader, while Fuji is generally a few years behind the trends. Regardless, the Fuji Roubaix frame is excellent bang for the buck.

  8. Went to one LBS and they didnt have much in my size 52-54, but he already had the prices marked down from MSRP which was pretty cool.

    Then went to another LBS and these guys were way nicer and down to earth. They said theyd meet the price of LBS #1 and looks like Im trying out a CAAD10 with 105 tomorrow, Allez Elite both in 52 and 54. They also have a cannondale supersix, not sure if it was with 105 or Apex for $1799 on sale (a little out of my price range)but the guy said it was a great deal. Plus they offer lifetime service if I buy from them.

    Anything I should pay attention to while testing the bikes? And as far as shoes go, is it whatever feels better or are some brands actually better than others? And pedals good from the bad? My friend just bought Look Keo Classics and likes them... any opinions/advice?

  9. If I had to do it all over again, I'd probably do it on a CAAD10.

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