I used to ride a 10-speed back in the day and enjoyed riding. Since then, I've been riding the cheaper mountain bikes from stores such as Target with the family and want to get back into casual road riding again. I did some research and learned that the bikes are up to 30-speed now, lighter and more costly.
Since I'm a newbie, do you think the Fuji Newest 1.0 is a reasonable bike for the beginner. I just want a comfortable and reliable bike at a reasonable price. Any input would be appreciated. Thank you.
While I'm not a particularly big fan of FLAT BAR bikes, if you are planning on riding with your family then that is probably the type of bike which you should be looking at ...
something like a JAMIS CODA ... the MSRP starts at around $600 for the base model (steel frame & V-brakes ... it's the one which I would probably choose, FWIW) to one with disc brakes (which are over-kill for 90% of non-wet, non-MTB riding, IMO) & an aluminum frame (all but the base model CODA have aluminum frames) ...
there are many other choices of Flat Bar bikes
I strongly recommend that you AVOID bikes with an inexpensive front suspension ... if you get a Hybrid, get the model with a RIGID fork (it will cost less & handle better) ...
If you (or, anyone else) feel a need for a bike with a front suspension + 700c wheels, then pony up for a 29er.
Don't assume that you need flat bars for casual riding. Unless you fit them with bar ends (commonly called "bull horns"😉 you're stuck with one hand position, and your hands may tend to go numb after a time. People also tend to ride flat bars with pressure on their hands. Say you hit a head wind, and you lean forward and lower your body to reduce wind drag--you'll be putting a lot of pressure on your hands when you do this. With drop bars, you'll be naturally lower on the bike and won't have to compensate for the wind.
There are many "relaxed geometry" or "endurance fit" drop bar bikes on the market now, that offer a more upright riding position than an old "racer" from the 70s. And drop bars offer you a variety of hand positions. You can hold the bars on the flat tops and except for a slightly narrower width, that's the same riding position as flat bars. You can have a shop install aftermarket center pull brake levers to back up the regular levers, when you're holding the top of the bars. They're not as strong for braking as regular levers, but if you're just cruising along with the family, they'll work fine. Then you can vary your hand position---most all new drop bar bikes have soft, ergonomic grips on the brake hoods. Most riders do at least 90% of their riding gripping the brake hoods.
I believe the Fuji comes with a drop bar already. I just see so many options at many prices. I'm now starting to lean towards the Fuji Roubaix 1.0 instead of the Newest 1.0. Am I getting ahead of myself? I just want to go a little faster. Below are the specs for each bike. Thanks again.
its a nice bike at a fair price, however i wouldn't buy a triple chainring unless you ride lots of hills in your area, if terrain is flat then buy a bike with a compact double chainring,
I took it for a quick spin. I had forgotten what it feels like to ride fast....faster than my current mountain bike anyway. I must say there wasn't much cushion to the seat though.
I took it for a quick spin. I had forgotten what it feels like to ride fast....faster than my current mountain bike anyway. I must say there wasn't much cushion to the seat though.
There isn't supposed to be much cushioning on a road bike's saddle. Soft cushioning can bunch up and cause chafing. The cushioning effect comes mainly from the contours of the saddle, and in some measure from the chamois liner in cycling shorts. Get a pair of bike shorts. If you're too self-conscious to wear tight-fitting lycra, get a pair of baggier mountain biking shorts with a chamois liner. Don't wear anything under them. Then give your ass a few rides to get used to the saddle, before you start spending good money on a saddle safari. Every time you change saddles (or get a new bike with a different saddle) there's a "break-in" period as your posterior gets used to the different contours.
If you decide to change saddles, bear in mind that everyone's butt is different, and what's comfortable to some might not be to you. Selle SMP, Selle Italia, ProLogo and Fizik are all good saddles, but dollar for dollar, Specialized makes some great saddles too for less money.
in the beggining i also got hooked into road cycling by the feeling of speed but the ability to ride long distances was the real deal for me, of course there is racing but that is a whole different world,
in the beggining i also got hooked into road cycling by the feeling of speed but the ability to ride long distances was the real deal for me, of course there is racing but that is a whole different world,
I was just telling my wife I'm enjoying the longer rides versus speed. Racing is not even a thought for me
The discussion is so much more cogent and helpful when somebody takes the initiative to do a little research, instead of letting it spin off into orbit based on half-baked impressions and rumors. Thanks for doing this, lagriff.
The Roubaix has always been a very nice bike and this year Fuji raised its bar to make it nicer. They did the same for the Newest, raising it to a respectable entry-level road bike.
Mate i have a Fuji roub 1.0 its a 2010 model and its the best thing ive ever been on. i can only imagine the new one with the 105 gear would be excelent mine has sram rival gear and its exelent. i had it tuned up at mikes bikes they found a kink in the gear (rear) cabel andfixed it up perfectly for $40.00 brett Marr Australia
