"VisionSet" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:KsIac.24$LM4.5@newsfe1-win...
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
I tried on mine at EBC, which used to be my LBS and I still visit a few times a year. It's not too far for you to a lot of other sizeable towns in the Midlands so you should maybe cast your net further afield.
Okay I give in, what's EBC?
The Edinburgh Bicycle Cooperative. Now operating out of Edinburgh, Newcastle and Aberdeen. Slogan: "The Revolution will not be motorised" appears on most own brand gear. Can be found at www.edinburgh-bicycle.co.uk.
I'm kinda fond of them, if only because the company policy is so blatantly socialist!
It's remarkably easy, and once you've done it once bringing a wheel back into true is no problem at all.
Biggest problem at the moment is that 5 different sizes of nipples seem to be becoming commonplace. If the spoke key is a dead fit and the spoke/nipple hasn't seized no problem - if one is wrong truing a wheel can be a PITA.
It's remarkably easy, and once you've done it once bringing a wheel back into true is no problem at all.
Biggest problem at the moment is that 5 different sizes of nipples seem to be becoming commonplace. If the spoke key is a dead fit and the spoke/nipple hasn't seized no problem - if one is wrong truing a wheel can be a PITA.
I've rebuilt a lot of wheels with various nipple sizes. To help dry spokes turn, spray WD40 around rim onto nipple heads and leave overnight to penetrate threads.
For spoke key, the 3.4 mm Spokey (comes in yellow or black) fits just about any nipple. If it is slightly loose on some nipples it does't hurt: it's hardened metal slot grips the nipple on 4 sides.
-- David Green Cambridge, UK.
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Biggest problem at the moment is that 5 different sizes of nipples seem to be becoming commonplace. If the spoke key is a dead fit and the spoke/nipple hasn't seized no problem - if one is wrong truing a wheel can be a PITA.
I've rebuilt a lot of wheels with various nipple sizes. To help dry spokes turn, spray WD40 around rim onto nipple heads and leave overnight to penetrate threads.
For spoke key, the 3.4 mm Spokey (comes in yellow or black) fits just about any nipple. If it is slightly loose on some nipples it does't hurt: it's hardened metal slot grips the nipple on 4 sides.
I disagree about the Spokey version. It's the *Red* 3.25 one that fits most modern European nipples, eg. DT and Sapim supplied with 2.0 spokes, plus some others. I've found the Yellow one is far too large to work on these but is good for larger nipples (that are found on some MTB machine built wheels, for example).
The "Pro" version of the Red tool is a little tighter (as well has having a double insert), so is slower to use, ironically. There is some play with the standard version but that indeed doesn't seem to be a problem (on nipples in good condition).
It's remarkably easy, and once you've done it once bringing a wheel back into true is no problem at all.
Biggest problem at the moment is that 5 different sizes of nipples seem to be becoming commonplace. If the spoke key is a dead fit and the spoke/nipple hasn't seized no problem - if one is wrong truing a wheel can be a PITA.
I've rebuilt a lot of wheels with various nipple sizes. To help dry spokes turn, spray WD40 around rim onto nipple heads and leave overnight to penetrate threads.
Stuff WD40 Plus Gas better on siezed threads
Quoted message said:
For spoke key, the 3.4 mm Spokey (comes in yellow or black) fits just about any nipple. If it is slightly loose on some nipples it does't hurt: it's hardened metal slot grips the nipple on 4 sides.
