Crankset bodge

<snip q: re bodging a loose isis interface>

I bet this is a Zipp carbon. Only crank I know of that costs this
much. Even Campy isn't shameless enough to set a price that high!

JB Weld. Slather it in the crank splines and then put it on. Tighten.
Pray. Shake chicken blood over it.

Ride.

D'ohBoy

Quoted message said:

Hi,

Someone gave me a crankset with a damaged ISIS spline. I'd like to try
to salvage it so I am soliciting suggestions on how to bodge it
together so it will work. The crank was ridden a bit with the bolt
loose, so now even when tightened the crank has about 1mm of wobble.

I've been thinking about ripping up a soda can and sticking some little
"shims" in there or maybe epoxy.

Other suggestions? This is a $650 crankset so that is why I am
bothering.

Joseph

I would try to file the crank splines as smooth as possible, jam so
coke can shims in there with some JB weld and torque it down as hard as
possible...may never come off tho-

If you epoxy the crank on, how will you get it off when the bottom
bracket needs replacing? Seems a waste to make the entire bicycle frame
unusable just to salvage a crankset.

The crank must be really buggered up - normally they won't get to the
point of having play no matter how badly you treat them. Did you try
the crank on a new bottom bracket (with a new bolt), or just the old
(potentially damaged) one? Did you clean the crank end out very
thoroughly to remove any metal shavings? Is the 1mm play rotational
play or in/out? ISIS cranks aren't an interference fit like square
taper - they sit on a mating surface. If that surface is clean they'll
sit without play no matter how badly the rest of the splines are
buggered up; so some (very careful) filing could fix things up.

sunderland said:

If you epoxy the crank on, how will you get it off when the bottom
bracket needs replacing? Seems a waste to make the entire bicycle frame
unusable just to salvage a crankset.

I can hacksaw the bb spindle if I need to get it out.

Quoted message said:

The crank must be really buggered up - normally they won't get to the
point of having play no matter how badly you treat them. Did you try
the crank on a new bottom bracket (with a new bolt), or just the old
(potentially damaged) one? Did you clean the crank end out very
thoroughly to remove any metal shavings? Is the 1mm play rotational
play or in/out? ISIS cranks aren't an interference fit like square
taper - they sit on a mating surface. If that surface is clean they'll
sit without play no matter how badly the rest of the splines are
buggered up; so some (very careful) filing could fix things up.

It's one of those integrated bearing jobs, so there is no separate
spindle to replace. The play is in-out, not rotational.

Joseph

D'ohBoy said:

<snip q: re bodging a loose isis interface>

I bet this is a Zipp carbon. Only crank I know of that costs this
much. Even Campy isn't shameless enough to set a price that high!

FSA is the culprit this time.

Quoted message said:

JB Weld. Slather it in the crank splines and then put it on. Tighten.
Pray. Shake chicken blood over it.

I can get some chicken blood locally, but what's JB Weld?

Joseph

Huh? Now you aren't making sense. ISIS is one particular cartridge
bottom bracket standard. Now you're saying that it's a splined
integrated crank. (The splines on the integrated cranks are not ISIS).
Which is it?

If it is an external-bearing integrated crank you'll have problems
hacksawing it off - first, when correctly installed, there is no
exposed crank spindle to hacksaw. Second, if you do hacksaw it, you've
trashed the entire crankset.

Is the in/out play between the LHS crank arm and the spindle - i.e. if
you put them together when NOT installed on the bike, is there play? If
so a very, very thin shim (like aluminum foil) might work

If the play is only when the crank is installed, then it isn't
installed correctly. You might need a spacer between one of the bearing
cartridges and the frame.

[email hidden] a écrit :

Quoted message said:

D'ohBoy said:

<snip q: re bodging a loose isis interface>

I bet this is a Zipp carbon. Only crank I know of that costs this
much. Even Campy isn't shameless enough to set a price that high!

FSA is the culprit this time.

Quoted message said:

JB Weld. Slather it in the crank splines and then put it on. Tighten.
Pray. Shake chicken blood over it.

I can get some chicken blood locally, but what's JB Weld?

Joseph

Having such a piece, did you install the blue apacers at the spider and
LH arm ? There are lots of installations without them, never having
been shipped together, and FSA has even noted this as a problem on their
site.
--
Bonne route !

Sandy

sunderland said:

Huh? Now you aren't making sense. ISIS is one particular cartridge
bottom bracket standard. Now you're saying that it's a splined
integrated crank. (The splines on the integrated cranks are not ISIS).
Which is it?

It is an external bearing integrated type crankset that uses an ISIS
interface to attach the left crankarm.

Quoted message said:

If it is an external-bearing integrated crank you'll have problems
hacksawing it off - first, when correctly installed, there is no
exposed crank spindle to hacksaw. Second, if you do hacksaw it, you've
trashed the entire crankset.

If an epoxy bodge (the last resort) ends up not working and I need to
hacksaw it, the crankset will already be past saving, so killing it
with a grinder or something won't be a big deal.

Quoted message said:

Is the in/out play between the LHS crank arm and the spindle - i.e. if
you put them together when NOT installed on the bike, is there play? If
so a very, very thin shim (like aluminum foil) might work

If the play is only when the crank is installed, then it isn't
installed correctly. You might need a spacer between one of the bearing
cartridges and the frame.

The play is apparent when the crankset both mounted and not. I'll try
aliminum foil, folded a few times?

Joseph

Sandy said:

[email hidden] a écrit :

Quoted message said:

D'ohBoy said:

<snip q: re bodging a loose isis interface>

I bet this is a Zipp carbon. Only crank I know of that costs this
much. Even Campy isn't shameless enough to set a price that high!

FSA is the culprit this time.

Quoted message said:

JB Weld. Slather it in the crank splines and then put it on. Tighten.
Pray. Shake chicken blood over it.

I can get some chicken blood locally, but what's JB Weld?

Joseph

Having such a piece, did you install the blue apacers at the spider and
LH arm ? There are lots of installations without them, never having
been shipped together, and FSA has even noted this as a problem on their
site.
--
Bonne route !

Sandy

The crankset came to me unmounted. It has a little blue o-ring sort of
thing at the base of the spider. Nothing on the LH arm. Should there
be? Where on the FSA site is this info?

Thanks!

Joseph

[email hidden] a écrit :

Quoted message said:

Sandy said:

[email hidden] a écrit :

Quoted message said:

D'ohBoy wrote:
> <snip q: re bodging a loose isis interface>
>
> I bet this is a Zipp carbon. Only crank I know of that costs this
> much. Even Campy isn't shameless enough to set a price that high!
FSA is the culprit this time.

> JB Weld. Slather it in the crank splines and then put it on. Tighten.
> Pray. Shake chicken blood over it.
I can get some chicken blood locally, but what's JB Weld?

Joseph

Having such a piece, did you install the blue apacers at the spider and
LH arm ? There are lots of installations without them, never having
been shipped together, and FSA has even noted this as a problem on their
site.
--
Bonne route !

Sandy

The crankset came to me unmounted. It has a little blue o-ring sort of
thing at the base of the spider. Nothing on the LH arm. Should there
be? Where on the FSA site is this info?

Thanks!

Joseph

Yes, on both sides, or there will be play.

I don't know where, just now, but write to them, address it to Claudio.
He has had to deal with this for a while.
--
Bonne route !

Sandy

I have tried aluminum foil shims in other applications (QR skewer
head stabilization). The chance of it working is about 0%. The chance of it
making the problem worse is about 100%. The problem is that it always
tears when you make the final tightening adjustment. Then the surface
interface is not uniform. The surface contact area would likely be
less than no aluminum foil at all, making the problem worse.

I'd try the JB weld, or maybe a good old fashioned trowel & mortar
(just kidding) first.

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA

Quoted message said:

sunderland said:

Huh? Now you aren't making sense. ISIS is one particular cartridge
bottom bracket standard. Now you're saying that it's a splined
integrated crank. (The splines on the integrated cranks are not
ISIS). Which is it?

It is an external bearing integrated type crankset that uses an ISIS
interface to attach the left crankarm.

It's not ISIS. You're confusing two different spline patterns, and thus
confusing us.

I would JB Weld, but once it gets loose, you might be SOL on getting home
from that particular ride. Tape a cell phone to the crankarm so that you'll
be able to use it if you get stuck.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

Phil said:

Quoted message said:

sunderland said:

Huh? Now you aren't making sense. ISIS is one particular cartridge
bottom bracket standard. Now you're saying that it's a splined
integrated crank. (The splines on the integrated cranks are not
ISIS). Which is it?

It is an external bearing integrated type crankset that uses an ISIS
interface to attach the left crankarm.

It's not ISIS. You're confusing two different spline patterns, and thus
confusing us.

I would JB Weld, but once it gets loose, you might be SOL on getting home
from that particular ride. Tape a cell phone to the crankarm so that you'll
be able to use it if you get stuck.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

I figured out it wasn't ISIS once I killed the M20 bolt holding it on.
I took a M15(?) bolt from an ISIS bb I have lying around and I saw the
difference.

I can't see where it is worn, so I think I may hop straight to epoxy.

The cell-phone is not necessary. Why do you think bikes have 2 pedals?
In case one falls off.

Joseph

In article
<[email hidden]>,

Quoted message said:

D'ohBoy said:

<snip q: re bodging a loose isis interface>

I bet this is a Zipp carbon. Only crank I know of that costs this
much. Even Campy isn't shameless enough to set a price that high!

FSA is the culprit this time.

Quoted message said:

JB Weld. Slather it in the crank splines and then put it on. Tighten.
Pray. Shake chicken blood over it.

I can get some chicken blood locally, but what's JB Weld?

It is an epoxy formulation designed to repair metal
fabrications up to and including cracked engine blocks. It
cures very hard and strong. It is machinable when set up,
but not fully cured. They print testimonials on the
package. A Kansas farmer said

`I have used J-B Weld for more than five years on my farm
equipment and I have decided that it is even better than
baling wire.'

--
Michael Press

Quoted message said:

The cell-phone is not necessary. Why do you think bikes have 2 pedals?
In case one falls off.

Then you'd have to ride NASCAR style. Only making left turns to make
sure the drive side crank doesn't slip out of alignment and run the
chain into the FD cage.

Quoted message said:

... This is a $650 crankset so that is why I am
bothering.

Correction: This *was* a $650 crankset. It is now half of a $650
crankset, if one of the cranks is still useful.

My advice: Save the good bits and trash the damaged part. With that
much wallowing, it's well and truly past fixing. That's why *you*
have it, after all.

--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Quoted message said:

sunderland said:

If you epoxy the crank on, how will you get it off when the bottom
bracket needs replacing? Seems a waste to make the entire bicycle frame
unusable just to salvage a crankset.

Quoted message said:

I can hacksaw the bb spindle if I need to get it out.

I suspect you've never tried that. Try it and you'll likely change your
mind. BB spindles are hardened steel and eat through hacksaw blades like
popcorn, with little progress to show for your efforts. An acetylene torch
would make short work of it, but there might be collarteral damage. :-)

Now you know why someone gave you a $650 crank...

--

John ([email hidden])

Werehatrack said:

Quoted message said:

... This is a $650 crankset so that is why I am
bothering.

Correction: This *was* a $650 crankset. It is now half of a $650
crankset, if one of the cranks is still useful.

My advice: Save the good bits and trash the damaged part. With that
much wallowing, it's well and truly past fixing. That's why *you*
have it, after all.

The problem is that a replacement LH crank costs way more than I would
ever spend on a complete crankset, and since it's a funny integrated
job, I can't just mix-n-match with other junk I have lying around. So
no point in not trying even lost-cause bodges.

Which is of course why it was given to me. (Actually traded for other
useless junk.)

Joseph

Quoted message said:

Werehatrack said:

Quoted message said:

... This is a $650 crankset so that is why I am
bothering.

Correction: This *was* a $650 crankset. It is now half of a $650
crankset, if one of the cranks is still useful.

My advice: Save the good bits and trash the damaged part. With that
much wallowing, it's well and truly past fixing. That's why *you*
have it, after all.

The problem is that a replacement LH crank costs way more than I would
ever spend on a complete crankset, and since it's a funny integrated
job, I can't just mix-n-match with other junk I have lying around. So
no point in not trying even lost-cause bodges.

Which is of course why it was given to me. (Actually traded for other
useless junk.)

Wait a minute. It's got an ISIS end on the shaft, right? The *shaft*
won't have been damaged, then, just the hole in the crank will be
wallowed. If that's the case, then any ISIS left crank should do the
job. If it was the right crank that had been snockered, there
wouldn't be any point, but a lefty isn't hard to come by as long as
you're not insistent on being a fashion victim.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.