Cranks destroyed

They are all the same and cheap as well. If it's splined, you have to be
sure to get the right kind of spline. Counting the splines is a good
way to make sure you get the right kind.

The threads on your pedals are likely ok. Let me guess, was it the left
pedal ?

Most people learn to idle and ride backwards, favoring the left foot,
so that side unscrews first.

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feel the light said:

If it's splined, you have to be sure to get the right kind of spline.

Nimbus II isn't splined...
Fortunately, square taper cotterless cranks are very cheap(upwards of
$12 in the states) 'here' (http://tinyurl.com/6xkze)

Don't worry about riding backwards, that only unscrews crank arms that
are already loose, though if the crank arms are on the right sides the
pedals tend to tighten as you ride forwards, sometimes enough to save
the lazy unicycle owner until they start to go backwards..

I bet you'll get a wrench and check your pedals every once in a while
in any case😄

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I don't know what a spline is. When I went to the catalog under
unicycle hardware|crank arms and parts and it says

Cottered Cranks
Dust Caps
Splined Cranks
Cotterless Cranks...
ISIS Cranks

so I'm already lost. Fortunately, the page hobo_chuck linked to went
to the "cotterless crank" page. The $12 ones, Torker Cotterless Crank
Arms, are out of stock for 5 inch. I suppose I could get the Qu-Ax
Lightweight Alloy Crank Arms for a little more.

No, I was not riding backwards. I can barely ride forwards. I probably
favored my right foot while learning.

I was concerned about the pedals because looked different, but maybe
that is on purpose. I'll clean up the one that came off (right) and see
if it looks ok.

Thanks for the responses. What kind of tool do I need to change these?

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Universal Unicorn said:

Thanks for the responses. What kind of tool do I need to change these?

'THIS' (http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=420)

EDIT:If you don't already have a wrench that will fit your pedals, go
down to the hardware store and get one so this doesn't happen again
Also, I usually go with shorter than 5 inch cranks, sometimes even half
that for around town.

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hobo_chuck said:

Nimbus II isn't splined...
Fortunately, square taper cotterless cranks are very cheap(upwards of
$12 in the states)

...but the new ones have ISIS splines, and those cranks may be cheap (I
have a pair and I hate how they ride - they flex all over the place),
but they are also heavier and much weaker than 'these'
(http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=847).

Universal Unicorn said:

I don't know what a spline is.

cotterless hub (also called square tapper).
[image:
http://unicycle.co.uk/shop/shopdisplayproduct.asp?catalogid=541]
'Link' (http://tinyurl.com/5fadef) Pic didn't work 🙁

Splined hub. The splines are the things on the end of the hub that the
crank goes over. ISIS has 11 splines.
[image: http://unicycle.co.uk/Images/Shop/hubNimbusISIS.jpg]

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Thanks for the info. My problem is that I've never taken a unicycle (or
any cycle) completely apart, so I don't have an understanding of the
parts, hence the descriptions don't make much sense to me.

Wish me luck with my disassembly and reassembly.

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I have one of these. It's basically the same as the park model, but it
will take off both square and splined cranks, using a little adapter
that stores in the handle. Once you take out the crank bolt, you screw
this into the crank and turn the handle, and a inner bolt pushes on the
end of the uni axle, pushing the crank off the square taper. It is a
wedged taper, and will often stick. Put a little grease on, then bang
the new ones on a bit with a wood mallet, reinstall the crank bolt, and
you are good.

I am suggesting a different puller, because it will save you the cost
of buying a second one, should you buy a splined uni later.

Another option is to buy the puller that has no handle. These you have
to turn with a wrench, but have the advantage of being able to pull the
crank without having to first remove the pedal.

You need a 15 mm wrench-spanner for the pedals.

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Oh, my. I now have the tool, but the first instruction says, " Remove
the dust cap and crank bolt and washer using the proper wrench."

There doesn't seem to be a dust cap (not sure what that is), and I
don't have the proper wrench. I guess the instructions assume that I
know what the proper wrench is, which I don't. How do I know what to
get, and can I get it at the hardware store? I think this is something
called a "hex key."

I hope I can still do this myself! The rest of the instructions are
difficult to understand, but they may become clear once I get there.

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