rec.sport.unicycling · Public discussion

Correct crank/pedal assembly

RichVoice · 2006-01-06T19:57:21+00:00

So I was practicing today (a good day, I think I hit 15' several times), when I noticed a slight rattling sound. It sounded like it was coming from a pedal, so I checked, and sure enough, one of the pedals was slightly loose. As I looked at it, I happened to notice a small "R" on one side of the pedal, just next to the crank. Which seemed odd, since it was the left pedal. I checked the other one, and sure enough, there was a small "L" on it. I took them off, and, as I suspected, I couldn't switch them because of the threading (I've wrenched on my bicycles lots of times). Then I noticed that even the crank arms had "R" and "L" stamped into them, and they matched the pedals. I tried to remove a crank, but only succeeded in putting a slight dimple in the frame as I tried to leverage it off (I doubt that it's any worse than what I'll no doubt be doing to it on accident in the next few weeks, but note to self: buy a crank puller). So it seems to me that my cranks/pedals were installed on the wrong sides. At my level, I doubt that it's a big problem, although the fact that one of the pedals started to loosen already tells me that it's something I should get corrected. But before I take it back to where my wife bought it and ask the guy who put it together (my brother-in-law) to switch them for me, I want to make sure that I've got it straight how this thing is supposed to be facing in the first place, since I'm pretty new to this sport. So here are my assumptions: 1. The fat part of the seat goes in back. 2. The quick-release on the seat tube goes in back (not the handle, I realize that can go any direction, though I always have the ones on my bikes facing down or back, but the actual holes that the quick-release axle goes through). If those are correct, then it seems to me that the cranks are on backwards, and my options are to a) get them put on correctly, or b) turn the seat around, which will put the quick-release in front. Any problem with option "b"? Or should I just take it back and get it built properly? Rich -- RichVoice http://richonaunicycle.blogspot.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------ RichVoice's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/11400 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/45863

Started by RichVoice · 6 January 2006 · Last activity 8 January 2006 · 11 posts · 297 views

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01 / Original postCorrect crank/pedal assemblyRichVoice · 6 Jan 2006 02 / This pagePosts 1–11Page 1 of 1 · chronological order 03 / Latest replyPost #11Klaas Bil · 8 Jan 2006

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Original section: rec.sport.unicycling
Published: 6 January 2006
Last activity: 8 January 2006
Original author: RichVoice
Posts: 11
Discussion status: Public discussion
Total views: 297
Views / 30 days: 0
Topics: Cranksets Taper and peaking

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Original post
RichVoice
Archived post

6 January 2006, 19:57 UTC #1

So I was practicing today (a good day, I think I hit 15' several times),
when I noticed a slight rattling sound. It sounded like it was coming
from a pedal, so I checked, and sure enough, one of the pedals was
slightly loose.
As I looked at it, I happened to notice a small "R" on one side of the
pedal, just next to the crank. Which seemed odd, since it was the left
pedal. I checked the other one, and sure enough, there was a small "L"
on it.
I took them off, and, as I suspected, I couldn't switch them because of
the threading (I've wrenched on my bicycles lots of times). Then I
noticed that even the crank arms had "R" and "L" stamped into them, and
they matched the pedals. I tried to remove a crank, but only succeeded
in putting a slight dimple in the frame as I tried to leverage it off
(I doubt that it's any worse than what I'll no doubt be doing to it on
accident in the next few weeks, but note to self: buy a crank
puller).
So it seems to me that my cranks/pedals were installed on the wrong
sides. At my level, I doubt that it's a big problem, although the fact
that one of the pedals started to loosen already tells me that it's
something I should get corrected. But before I take it back to where
my wife bought it and ask the guy who put it together (my
brother-in-law) to switch them for me, I want to make sure that I've
got it straight how this thing is supposed to be facing in the first
place, since I'm pretty new to this sport. So here are my
assumptions:
1. The fat part of the seat goes in back.
2. The quick-release on the seat tube goes in back (not the handle, I
realize that can go any direction, though I always have the ones on my
bikes facing down or back, but the actual holes that the quick-release
axle goes through).
If those are correct, then it seems to me that the cranks are on
backwards, and my options are to a) get them put on correctly, or b)
turn the seat around, which will put the quick-release in front.
Any problem with option "b"? Or should I just take it back and get it
built properly?
Rich
--
RichVoice
http://richonaunicycle.blogspot.com
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markf
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6 January 2006, 20:08 UTC #2

that's what i was thinking...
or switch the cranks if you don't like riding a frame that's
"backwards"
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markf
stuck in iowa and unemployed.
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rob.northcott
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6 January 2006, 20:09 UTC #3

The frame will have a slot in it where the seat clamp is. This slot is
the back of the frame. With that slot backwards, turn the seat so it's
facing the right way (the fat part is the back, as you guessed). If
the cranks are now the wrong way round, it's easier to turn the whole
wheel round in the frame than it is to swap the cranks over. Depending
on what kind of bearing holders you have, you will either need to undo
four nuts ("maincap" bearing holders) or slide the holders out of the
frame ("lollipop" holders - I haven't had any experience of those so
I'm not sure if they're held in by grub screws, bolts or just
friction).
To remove the cranks (I'm assuming it's a normal square taper axle, not
a splined one) you'll need a crank puller (same as for bicycle cranks).
These are not expensive to buy, otherwise most bike shops will remove
the cranks for you for a small fee.
Good luck.
Rob
--
rob.northcott
You do not need a parachute to skydive. You only need a parachute to
skydive twice
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ntappin
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6 January 2006, 20:21 UTC #4

I had the exact same thing happen to my norco uni. I took it back to
where bought it and they put some locktite in and gave the entire uni
a full checkup. Since then I havn't had any problems with it
whatsoever.
--
ntappin
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unicyclistben
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6 January 2006, 22:45 UTC #5

take it to my bike shop. u live rite next to it
|
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v
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unicyclistben
http://willowglenbicycles.com/site/intro.cfm
Proud owner of posts 37000 and 38000 in MR
myspace.com/ben_unruh
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maestro8
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6 January 2006, 22:55 UTC #6

How about taking the wheel off the frame, rotating it 180, and
reinstalling the wheel? There's no need to take the cranks off!
If the cranks / pedals do come off, however, give the threads and/or
square taper a light coating of grease or antiseize before
reinstallation. This will allow for a better fit and easier
maintenance in the future.
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maestro8
Those are my principles. If you don't like those, I have others. --
Groucho Marx
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musketman
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6 January 2006, 23:08 UTC #7

yea if you have them on there the wrong way the pedals will keep
loosening because of weight on the pedals that is turning them "undone"
enstead of tightening them when you do drops or just plain ride around.
Other than the pedals coming loose all the time there is no real damage
done.
--
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ColDawG
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6 January 2006, 23:28 UTC #8

You don't need to take it to a bike shop, you just need to take the
frame off and flip the wheel around so everything's in the right
direction.
There should either be 4 bolts holding a cap on around the bearing (on
the axle) that you take off,
or there will be lollipop bearing holders (you unscrew bolts that hold
them in the frame and they drop out)
Just take the wheel off and switch its direction.
...and if you ever have any problems other than that I work at Wheel
Away bikeshop in Campbell on friday afternoons and saturdays and do
most of the uni wrenching there :-)
-colin
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Your friendly, neighborhood Muniman
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RichVoice
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7 January 2006, 01:41 UTC #9

D'oh! I never thought about the fact that the cranks are attached to
the wheel. Too many years of cycling with *two* wheels. 🙄
It's got the four bolts. I'll rotate it later tonight. Looks like the
tire tread is the same in both directions, so I imagine it makes no
difference which direction it's facing.
Thanks guys! I'm awfully glad I Googled "unicycle learn" on Christmas
morning! And Colin and Ben, I'll stop in at your respective bike shops
soon, it'll be nice to meet some local unicyclers. 🙂
Rich
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johnhimsworth
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7 January 2006, 14:35 UTC #10

It doesn't matter if the slot in the frame is facing forwards, so you
could just spin the seat around. Even quicker than reversing the
wheels.
Some bikes have the slot in the front of the seat tube, supposedly to
prevent mud thrown up by the wheel getting in the slot.
John
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Never argue with an idiot; they drag you down to their level and then
beat you with experience.
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Klaas Bil
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8 January 2006, 07:04 UTC #11

RichVoice said:
Looks like the tire tread is the same in both directions, so I imagine
it makes no difference which direction it's facing.
That's what I would think too. If the tread is directional and the
profile as a V-shape to it, the tyre should be mounted such that the
corner of the V hits the road first. The reason for this is that water
can be drained away from the centre of the tyre to the sides. However,
at unicycling speeds water drainage is not a problem anyway, so I'd
guess that tyre directionality doesn't matter for us.
Note: I've heard that people were experimenting with the rolling
direction of offroad tyres to increase grip on downhill versus uphill,
or something like it. ISTR there was a marginal difference only, if
any.
--
Klaas Bil
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