Coker crank brands

little kids use those for bmx bikes..
they kids only weigh about 120lbs max i would imagine..but then again
these kids are jumping like 7feet in the air at times..
im pretty sure theyd be a good pair for a coker..
have u tried asking ur LBS yet? or went to a bmx track or the
skateparks and the bmx guys about them?

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Uniman_3 said:

little kids use those for bmx bikes..
they kids only weigh about 120lbs max i would imagine..but then again
these kids are jumping like 7feet in the air at times..
im pretty sure theyd be a good pair for a coker..
have u tried asking ur LBS yet? or went to a bmx track or the
skateparks and the bmx guys about them?

LBS? They don't carry those and don't know the first thing about
unicycling, especially coker or extreme uni.

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These are also supposed to be pretty strong.
http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=847
and
http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=174

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skilewis74 said:

These are also supposed to be pretty strong.
http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=847
and
http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=174

Yeah I have the first ones (prowheel) in 127mm, but I wanted a non-q
factor in the longer cranks. Those second ones you listed are sold in
left only, and are $50 *each*, so what good are those unless you only
ride one footed haha!😄

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I have these in 125mm on my coker: http://tinyurl.com/3kffe

They are amazing, so light yet totally solid feeling.

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mscalisi said:

We only need one 36" rim, one that doesn't suck. A properly sized KH rim
(like the 29er only larger) would be awesome.

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Brian O. said:

I have these in 125mm on my coker: http://tinyurl.com/3kffe

They are amazing, so light yet totally solid feeling.

Yeah those seem nice, but the longest they come is 152 and I really want
175's. And just to clarify again, I normally use my prowheel 127's for
everyday road riding, but I want to do crazy stuff offroad, climb the
really steep stuff, stop on a dime without the need for a brake, etc.
Plus I can still pedal fast enough to keep up with the 152 crowd!:p

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have u thought about mountain bike cranks? or will they not fit?

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Uniman_3 said:

have u thought about mountain bike cranks? or will they not fit?

Don't most bike/mtb cranks have a "spider" built in to one of the
cranks. They have to really unicycle cranks I think.

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You could try some of these:

http://tinyurl.com/222zvp

Personally, I use the 170 ProWheel cranks that I've drilled for 145mm
also. With a cheap 15mm wrench in my pocket, I can change the pedals
out in under 2 minutes.

If you are interested, let me know.

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ahollow said:

Personally, I use the 170 ProWheel cranks that I've drilled for 145mm
also. With a cheap 15mm wrench in my pocket, I can change the pedals
out in under 2 minutes.

I was wondering wether it could be a good thing to use "Kris Holm
Twin-hole Moment ISIS Cranks" on a Coker
well for sure that means you will have to set-up a Coker with ISIS hub
which may be overkill ... but who knows?
(yes it is a 125/150 combination but this is what I need)

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I have used the Sugino cranks from AE bike with no problems, although
now I have a set of drilled KOOKA cranks from PDC and they work great.

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I have a pair of the Black Widows in 160mm. Use caution, as they are
prone to stripping when you put on the pedals. Always use a very light
touch to make sure you're on the threads!

Beyond that they're great looking, though they seem a little springy. I
have them on my 29" and I always get the feeling that my pedals are
flexing as I ride. This could be a good thing; a tiny amount of
suspension as well as a way for the cranks to avoid getting bent! But
they are expensive, so use the Pro Wheels if they come in the size you
need. For a Coker a little bit of Q doesn't matter, honestly.

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i run 152 Prowheel aluminiums about half of the time, the other half i
run 102 steel no name cranks. they seem to work fine for me.

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I've got a pair of those Black Widow cranks in 175 and they bent like
taffy from a puny-ass 18-inch drop. Nathan or Corbin probably has the
info you need.

JL

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ahollow said:

You could try some of these:

http://tinyurl.com/222zvp

Personally, I use the 170 ProWheel cranks that I've drilled for 145mm
also. With a cheap 15mm wrench in my pocket, I can change the pedals
out in under 2 minutes.

If you are interested, let me know.

What about a third hole at about 120mm, for road riding; the 145's would
be too long, but the 170 size would be great for muni!

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vivalargo said:

I've got a pair of those Black Widow cranks in 175 and they bent like
taffy from a puny-ass 18-inch drop.

I've had nothing but bad experiences with aluminum cranks. They aren't
made to handle huge amounts of torque -- as Mr. Foss noted, they tend
to strip quite easily. When they fail, they fail catastrophically.

My two cents: If you're doing any off-road riding at all, stick with
steel cranks. They're a little heavier, but they'll last longer and
you won't end up having to walk for days when you've stripped a crank
5+ miles from the trailhead 🙁

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I've used aluminum/carbon fibre race face cranks in 175's, and kookas
in 170s. they were both awesome.

the spider isn't an issue for the crank (other than pants grabbing) the
issue with MTB cranks is that sometimes, in order to tighten them down
enough, they interfere with the bearing turning...like the crank is too
deep for the square taper, and you tighten the crank into the unicycle
frame.

We tried to put Tim's Shimano (LX?) cranks on the Coker, and the
spinning would seize before the crank was fully tightened on.

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MuniAddict said:

What about a third hole at about 120mm, for road riding; the 145's would
be too long, but the 170 size would be great for muni!

I'll have to check the cranks and see if a third would be possible. I
believe the internal groove for saving weight doesn't allow enough
material for a hole in that location, though.

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Would the Black Widows be ok for road use on a Coker? Double drilled?

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