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Clydesdale advice

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
12 July 2005
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26 July 2005
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Trapper
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  1. Alright, I'm interested in the sport seeing as how my neck will no
    longer tolerate me riding a mountain bike. So here's where I genuflect
    in front of the gods of the one wheeled monster and beg for knowledge.

    I still want to trail ride if I can, so that puts me on a Muni instead
    of a plain Uni. I don't plan on any trials type stuff, but if I get the
    hang of riding it and my neck is doing ok I will be trying to hammer out
    a whole bunch of trail miles. I used to shoot for 100 a week on my
    Specialized Enduro. So I'm thinking that I'll need something that is
    going to be able to take miles of use and not fall apart in the first
    week.

    Caveat: I'm a heavy guy again. Since my neck went south I've put on
    about 30 lbs and that puts me at around 240 deep. So I believe that
    little tidbit of info would be the most important part of a purchase
    decision. Something lightweight and XC'ish would be something to shy
    away from.

    So I ask you folk for your opinions since I am clueless in the world of
    one wheel. What do you recommend for an overweight clydesdale with
    delusions of grandueur? I've already got most of the body armor. I
    just need a wheel to put it on.

    --
    Trapper
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  2. I have an enduro too! What year is yours? mines '04 comp

    UNICYCLES:
    KH Freeride would serve you well: It's a 24" wheel, which is big enough
    for muni, and small enough to maneuver tight, technical sections on the
    trail. A 26" might serve you better though, depending on your height
    (I'm 6', 145, and I ride a KH Freeride (24"😉)

    26 will cover more ground a bit easier (not much), but won't be quite as
    maneuverable on really tight sections.
    If you go 26, you could get a Yuni 26" Muni w/ Profiles (these splined
    cranks are quite strong). The KH freeride has KH/Onza splined cranks,
    and is also very strong.

    The final option is go w/ a heavier 24", which might be a bit stronger
    in the frame dept. than the KH. (The KH has an aluminum frame so it's
    light but I'm not sure if it's as strong)

    These Unis I have mentioned are all $500+, so if that's your price
    range, great! If you want something even more expensive, a Hunter frame
    is really good, and comes in 24 and 26" sizes. You could get a Hunter
    Muni w/ Profiles for $900+.

    --
    ColDawG - I go both ways:

    Your friendly, neighborhood Muniman
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  3. What you probably want is the fattest tire possible, to smooth out the
    ride and reduce neck impact. Make sure whatever you get has a 3" tire.
    At some point there will be a 3.7" tire on the market, but I don't think
    anybody knows when that will happen.

    There is a thread on here about the 3.7" Large Marge that you can check
    out. Here's my pictures of a George Barnes prototype from Moab this
    year:
    http://unicycling.smugmug.com/gallery/489732/1/20060442
    That thing is an ultra-cush mobile. Not only does that tire have a nice,
    floaty ride, it's the only unicycle I've ever managed to ride through
    fine, loose sand. Then I rode it as fast as I could down a trail of
    large gravel (up to 3" rocks). It was like riding down a slightly rough
    sidewalk!

    But a cycle built with one of those cycles is going to end up being a
    little heavier than a KH or similar, even if the tire weighs the same.
    There will have to be more rim, and at least a tad more frame.

    I think you'll be fine with the KH to start. Your two most important
    ingredients are the fat tire, as mentioned above, and a splined
    crankset. As long as you pair up the two of those, you should be fine.

    --
    johnfoss - More Moab Fun

    John Foss, the Uni-Cyclone
    "jfoss" at "unicycling.com" -- www.unicycling.com

    "Read the rules!" -- 'IUF Rulebook'
    (http://www.unicycling.org/iuf/rulebook/) -- 'USA Rulebook'
    (http://www.unicycling.org/usa/competition/)
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  4. What kinds of trail riding are you wanting to do? There's no need to
    get a Mack Truck unless you're doing huge drops, and since you won't be
    doing those right away, and those miles you will do will melt away some
    pounds.... If you plan on "hammering out miles" and don't plan on doing
    trials you will want a 26 or a 29 (or even a 36).

    I was injured a couple of times (well, a few) over the past couple of
    years and ended up at about 224, now down about 10 or so. I wouldn't
    hestitate to ride any of my LiveWire wheels, including square-tapered
    light 29ers, in any conditions. So far this summer, I've put over 800
    miles on a 29er on really rough roads, hills, and mild off-road, rain
    and shine. This 29er currently has a 2.0 tire on it.

    It's not heavy you need, but strong. And I don't agree that you should
    automatically think of the fattest tire that isn't even available yet.
    A simple Big Apple 29er would be fine for the road in the beginning, and
    there are other tires for off-road that should suit you fine.

    --
    U-Turn - Cool water for the flame

    Weep in the dojo... laugh on the battlefield.
    'LiveWire Unicycles' (http://www.livewireunicycles.com)
    'Strongest Coker Wheel in the World'
    (http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/albup39)
    '29er Tire Study' (http://u-turn.unicyclist.com/29erTireStudy/)
    'New York Unicycle Club' (http://www.newyorkunicycle.com)
    -- Dave Stockton
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  5. Trapper,
    Listen to the Gods, then I'll explain just exactly why you do or
    don't need certain items. You're welcome to borrow one of mine
    (24x3 Muni) 29'r or Coker (36) until you decide what you really want to
    buy.

    But you have to LEARN to ride ::FIRST!!!!!!!!!!::

    --
    Krashin'Kenny - Crash Tested

    If you ain't crashing, you ain't going fast enough!!!!!!!!!!!

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  6. Krashin'Kenny said:

    *Trapper,
    Listen to the Gods, then I'll explain just exactly why you do or
    don't need certain items. You're welcome to borrow one of mine
    (24x3 Muni) 29'r or Coker (36) until you decide what you really want
    to buy.

    But you have to LEARN to ride ::FIRST!!!!!!!!!!:: *


    Yes, Kenny is right. Borrowing first is usually the best policy.

    --
    U-Turn - Cool water for the flame

    Weep in the dojo... laugh on the battlefield.
    'LiveWire Unicycles' (http://www.livewireunicycles.com)
    'Strongest Coker Wheel in the World'
    (http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/albup39)
    '29er Tire Study' (http://u-turn.unicyclist.com/29erTireStudy/)
    'New York Unicycle Club' (http://www.newyorkunicycle.com)
    -- Dave Stockton
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  7. A good all around size is the 24"
    Lots of guys have 'em in Texas - I haven't seen a 29"

    If you have some medical problems that stop you from mountain biking, I
    would recommend that you stay away from the "extreme" and ride a 29".
    With a 29" the focus is on rolling smooth trails (cross-country) rather
    than riding down the side of a mountain or other dangerous and extreme
    terrains.

    I would really love to try a KH 29", but like I said, I've never seen a
    29" and I keep telling myself it is better to spin the 24" (to get a
    better workout, and not have to worry about durability as much).

    --
    ChangingLINKS.com - member

    Wishing you Happiness, Joy and Laughter,
    Drew Brown
    'Changing LINKS' (http://www.ChangingLINKS.com)
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  8. ChangingLINKS.com said:

    *I would recommend that you stay away from the "extreme" and ride a
    29". *

    Drew doesnt know what he is talking about get a 29 and ride extreme
    stuff its fun, although I dont own a 29 if I were getting in from
    mountain biking it would be the way I'd go. There isnt much speed in
    riding a 24 over most single track the 29er will make you feel more at
    home.

    Cheers and welcome to the club.
    Chex

    --
    Checkernuts - Breakdancer Extraordinar

    No one said it was gonna be easy and I'm not afraid to try, with the
    odds stacked up against me I will have to fight, One Life One Wheel got
    to do it right. H20

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  9. Ahhh, great info.

    ColDawg: I started with a 2002 Enduro (Blue), then I got a new 2002 Pro
    frame(Silver), then I got an S-Works frame (and it was a beautious
    flo-red), and now I have the 2004 Enduro Pro frame with a Marz. FRSL.
    Yes, I was riding hard.

    Kenny: You misunderstand. You ARE one of the gods.

    U-Turn: On my mtn. bike I road all types of trail Smooth double track,
    rough rocky creekbeds, twisty crawly up and downhills. I loved the
    technical stuff and hope to revisit most of it on one wheel. I also
    used to slap slicks on the Enduro and chase roadies. Got a small rep.
    from that too.

    Everyone else, I'm checking out all the info your passing my way. Kenny
    will get a quiz when I attempt to steal his uni from him.

    Thanks!

    --
    Trapper
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  10. Well I ordered a Torker DX and after 3 days of hearing nothing I find
    out they don't have any and wont until (maybe) August. I'm getting a
    little impatient about climbing onto a uni so I cancelled that one and
    moved up a notch on the moneyclip to one of these Onza 24-inch MUni's as
    my "Drivers Ed." bike. Took up some of Mr. Wallis's time before I did.
    Thank's again kind sir. Hopefully by next weekend I'll be growing fresh
    bacon on my shins.

    Now in the mountain bike community that I'm from, if you get a new
    frame or fork or something along that line you should "grace it" with a
    pant's dunking and a pic to boast with. Do the unicyclist enjoy
    anything similar here or is this a much more reserved group? 😉
    [image: http://www.unicycle.com/images/catalog/offroad/UNON24.jpg]

    --
    Trapper
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  11. Quoted message said:

    G
    http://www.unicycle.com/images/catalog/offroad/UNON24.jpg
    [/IMG] [/B]

    Trapper,
    I haven't heard of any such rituals on this forum. I don't think you
    can get the whole MUni down your pants (maybe just the the frame?)😄
    I'll be ready to give ya' some pointers this weekend if you're ready.
    YOu cxan always borrow one of my MUni's if yours arrives late.
    BTW, excellent choice ith the Onza (especially since they're $100
    cheaper right now).

    --
    Krashin'Kenny - Crash Tested

    If you ain't crashing, you ain't going fast enough!!!!!!!!!!!

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  12. 1. Kenny, that damn thing has my quads on fire!
    2. My Onza has Departed Mesquite Texas and should be delivered to me
    in the A.M.

    🙂

    --
    Trapper
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  13. 1. Kenny, that damn thing has my quads on fire!
    2. My Onza has Departed Mesquite Texas and should be delivered to me
    in the A.M.

    🙂

    --
    Trapper
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  14. Trapper said:

    *1. Kenny, that damn thing has my quads on fire!

    🙂 *


    Meaning the muni you borrowed from Kenny?
    That would have to mean you are riding it already? No way.

    Scott

    --
    S_Wallis - MUni-motivated, Distance-curious

    "I am always doing that which I can not do, in order that I may learn
    how to do it." Pablo Picasso
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  15. Trapper said:

    *1. Kenny, that damn thing has my quads on fire!

    🙂 *


    Meaning the muni you borrowed from Kenny?
    That would have to mean you are riding it already? No way.

    Scott

    --
    S_Wallis - MUni-motivated, Distance-curious

    "I am always doing that which I can not do, in order that I may learn
    how to do it." Pablo Picasso
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  16. Trapper said:

    *1. Kenny, that damn thing has my quads on fire!

    🙂 *

    You need to remember to keep your weight on your seat. When learning to
    ride most people have a tendency to put all their weight on the pedals,
    resulting in a large work out for the 'ol legs. Constantly remind
    yourself to sit down on the seat and you will be able to put more weight
    on the seat, saving your legs and allowing you to practice for longer
    :-)

    Check your seat height too. Use the same standard you do for setting
    the seat height on a mountain bike.

    --
    peter.bier - Posting since 97

    -Peter Bier

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  17. Trapper said:

    *1. Kenny, that damn thing has my quads on fire!

    🙂 *

    You need to remember to keep your weight on your seat. When learning to
    ride most people have a tendency to put all their weight on the pedals,
    resulting in a large work out for the 'ol legs. Constantly remind
    yourself to sit down on the seat and you will be able to put more weight
    on the seat, saving your legs and allowing you to practice for longer
    :-)

    Check your seat height too. Use the same standard you do for setting
    the seat height on a mountain bike.

    --
    peter.bier - Posting since 97

    -Peter Bier

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  18. peter.bier said:

    *You need to remember to keep your weight on your seat. When learning
    to ride most people have a tendency to put all their weight on the
    pedals, resulting in a large work out for the 'ol legs. Constantly
    remind yourself to sit down on the seat and you will be able to put
    more weight on the seat, saving your legs and allowing you to practice
    for longer :-)*

    Oooops:eek:
    I forgot to tell you about that part 🙄

    --
    Krashin'Kenny - Crash Tested

    If you ain't crashing, you ain't going fast enough!!!!!!!!!!!

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  19. peter.bier said:

    *You need to remember to keep your weight on your seat. When learning
    to ride most people have a tendency to put all their weight on the
    pedals, resulting in a large work out for the 'ol legs. Constantly
    remind yourself to sit down on the seat and you will be able to put
    more weight on the seat, saving your legs and allowing you to practice
    for longer :-)*

    Oooops:eek:
    I forgot to tell you about that part 🙄

    --
    Krashin'Kenny - Crash Tested

    If you ain't crashing, you ain't going fast enough!!!!!!!!!!!

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  20. Krashin'Kenny said:

    *Oooops:eek:
    I forgot to tell you about that part 🙄 *

    Nothing to fret. I figured that out yesterday. (As I mentioned on day
    one of my 'blog' (http://www.trappersplace.com/muni) )

    I think it's mainly from trying to balance 240 Lbs of pork on a stick.
    😉

    --
    Trapper
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