Chris King no-threadset on carbon steerer, o-ring troubles

On Sun, 4 Nov 2007 15:34:48 -0800, "Pete Grey" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

I'm having a bit of a battle with getting the top-cap over the steerer on a
bike I'm building.
This isn't my first King headset install, I've done maybe a half-dozen, plus
many other headset installs.

The darn o-ring is simply too tight. As in WAY too tight. I can get the
cap maybe 2-3mm down the steerer (put a nice bevel on it already), and
that's it, by hand.

I can't budge it with a rubber mallet. I can move it by using my crown race
setting tool, but it takes quite a tap to get it to move further down.
Given that, I suspect I won't be able to adjust the headset even if I can
get it snugged down, as there wouldn't be any play to even adjust?

Any ideas? I've tried greasing the o-ring and steerer, also silicone lube
on both. Same results with either, not going anywhere fast.

This headset was on the exact same frame fork model# awhile back, but I got
hit and it bent my headtube so I got a new fork to be safe on the rebuild.
I'm puzzled, any help would be greatly appreciated....

If it goes together with the o-ring removed, make a plug exactly the
same OD as the steerer with a taper, and feed the top race/o-ring over
it to prevent the o-ring from hanging up on the edge of the steerer
tube.

Once you get it in place, adjustment is unlikely to be a problem as
the force exerted by even a modest torque on the 1mm pitch adjusting
screw far exceeds the stiffness or friction of the o-ring
Kinky Cowboy*

*Batteries not included
May contain traces of nuts
Your milage may vary

On Sun, 4 Nov 2007 15:34:48 -0800, "Pete Grey" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

I'm having a bit of a battle with getting the top-cap over the steerer on a
bike I'm building.
This isn't my first King headset install, I've done maybe a half-dozen, plus
many other headset installs.

The darn o-ring is simply too tight. As in WAY too tight. I can get the
cap maybe 2-3mm down the steerer (put a nice bevel on it already), and
that's it, by hand.

I can't budge it with a rubber mallet. I can move it by using my crown race
setting tool, but it takes quite a tap to get it to move further down.
Given that, I suspect I won't be able to adjust the headset even if I can
get it snugged down, as there wouldn't be any play to even adjust?

Any ideas? I've tried greasing the o-ring and steerer, also silicone lube
on both. Same results with either, not going anywhere fast.

This headset was on the exact same frame fork model# awhile back, but I got
hit and it bent my headtube so I got a new fork to be safe on the rebuild.
I'm puzzled, any help would be greatly appreciated....

If it goes together with the o-ring removed, make a plug exactly the
same OD as the steerer with a taper, and feed the top race/o-ring over
it to prevent the o-ring from hanging up on the edge of the steerer
tube.

Once you get it in place, adjustment is unlikely to be a problem as
the force exerted by even a modest torque on the 1mm pitch adjusting
screw far exceeds the stiffness or friction of the o-ring
Kinky Cowboy*

*Batteries not included
May contain traces of nuts
Your milage may vary

I should have been more clear.
It's not hanging up on the edge, I tapered it with some emery paper and can
get 2-3mm past it.

It's from that point on that it won't budge, without a fairly large
mechanical aid such as my crown race set tool and hammer.

-pete

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

"Kinky Cowboy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

If it goes together with the o-ring removed, make a plug exactly the
same OD as the steerer with a taper, and feed the top race/o-ring over
it to prevent the o-ring from hanging up on the edge of the steerer
tube.

Once you get it in place, adjustment is unlikely to be a problem as
the force exerted by even a modest torque on the 1mm pitch adjusting
screw far exceeds the stiffness or friction of the o-ring
Kinky Cowboy*

*Batteries not included
May contain traces of nuts
Your milage may vary

I should have been more clear.
It's not hanging up on the edge, I tapered it with some emery paper and can
get 2-3mm past it.

It's from that point on that it won't budge, without a fairly large
mechanical aid such as my crown race set tool and hammer.

-pete

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

"Kinky Cowboy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

If it goes together with the o-ring removed, make a plug exactly the
same OD as the steerer with a taper, and feed the top race/o-ring over
it to prevent the o-ring from hanging up on the edge of the steerer
tube.

Once you get it in place, adjustment is unlikely to be a problem as
the force exerted by even a modest torque on the 1mm pitch adjusting
screw far exceeds the stiffness or friction of the o-ring
Kinky Cowboy*

*Batteries not included
May contain traces of nuts
Your milage may vary

On Sun, 4 Nov 2007 17:36:41 -0800, "Pete Grey" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

I should have been more clear.
It's not hanging up on the edge, I tapered it with some emery paper and can
get 2-3mm past it.

It's from that point on that it won't budge, without a fairly large
mechanical aid such as my crown race set tool and hammer.

-pete

Does it all go together with the o-ring removed? If it does, it seems
likely that you've got the wrong o-ring, or much less likely you have
a dud top race with a wrongly cut o-ring groove.

If it doesn't go together without the o-ring, you have an over sized
steerer tube ;-)

Kinky Cowboy*

*Batteries not included
May contain traces of nuts
Your milage may vary

On Sun, 4 Nov 2007 17:36:41 -0800, "Pete Grey" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

I should have been more clear.
It's not hanging up on the edge, I tapered it with some emery paper and can
get 2-3mm past it.

It's from that point on that it won't budge, without a fairly large
mechanical aid such as my crown race set tool and hammer.

-pete

Does it all go together with the o-ring removed? If it does, it seems
likely that you've got the wrong o-ring, or much less likely you have
a dud top race with a wrongly cut o-ring groove.

If it doesn't go together without the o-ring, you have an over sized
steerer tube ;-)

Kinky Cowboy*

*Batteries not included
May contain traces of nuts
Your milage may vary

Yep, it assembles fine w/o the o-ring, that's how I measured to cut the
steerer.

I got an email with the tolerancs on the steerer from King customer-service,
mine is actually on the smaller side of what they say works.

I'm guessing my top-cap-groove or o-ring is cut a little small side.

-pete

"Kinky Cowboy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On Sun, 4 Nov 2007 17:36:41 -0800, "Pete Grey" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

I should have been more clear.
It's not hanging up on the edge, I tapered it with some emery paper and
can
get 2-3mm past it.

It's from that point on that it won't budge, without a fairly large
mechanical aid such as my crown race set tool and hammer.

-pete

Does it all go together with the o-ring removed? If it does, it seems
likely that you've got the wrong o-ring, or much less likely you have
a dud top race with a wrongly cut o-ring groove.

If it doesn't go together without the o-ring, you have an over sized
steerer tube ;-)

Kinky Cowboy*

*Batteries not included
May contain traces of nuts
Your milage may vary

Yep, it assembles fine w/o the o-ring, that's how I measured to cut the
steerer.

I got an email with the tolerancs on the steerer from King customer-service,
mine is actually on the smaller side of what they say works.

I'm guessing my top-cap-groove or o-ring is cut a little small side.

-pete

"Kinky Cowboy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On Sun, 4 Nov 2007 17:36:41 -0800, "Pete Grey" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

I should have been more clear.
It's not hanging up on the edge, I tapered it with some emery paper and
can
get 2-3mm past it.

It's from that point on that it won't budge, without a fairly large
mechanical aid such as my crown race set tool and hammer.

-pete

Does it all go together with the o-ring removed? If it does, it seems
likely that you've got the wrong o-ring, or much less likely you have
a dud top race with a wrongly cut o-ring groove.

If it doesn't go together without the o-ring, you have an over sized
steerer tube ;-)

Kinky Cowboy*

*Batteries not included
May contain traces of nuts
Your milage may vary

"Pete Grey" <[email hidden]> wrote in
news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

I'm having a bit of a battle with getting the top-cap over the steerer
on a bike I'm building.
This isn't my first King headset install, I've done maybe a
half-dozen, plus many other headset installs.

The darn o-ring is simply too tight. As in WAY too tight. I can get
the cap maybe 2-3mm down the steerer (put a nice bevel on it already),
and that's it, by hand.

I can't budge it with a rubber mallet. I can move it by using my
crown race setting tool, but it takes quite a tap to get it to move
further down. Given that, I suspect I won't be able to adjust the
headset even if I can get it snugged down, as there wouldn't be any
play to even adjust?

Any ideas? I've tried greasing the o-ring and steerer, also silicone
lube on both. Same results with either, not going anywhere fast.

This headset was on the exact same frame fork model# awhile back, but
I got hit and it bent my headtube so I got a new fork to be safe on
the rebuild. I'm puzzled, any help would be greatly appreciated....

Thanks,

-pete

You did not say if the compression plug is in the steer tube. If so
remove and see if it works. Just an idea. What type/brand fork?

"Pete Grey" <[email hidden]> wrote in
news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

I'm having a bit of a battle with getting the top-cap over the steerer
on a bike I'm building.
This isn't my first King headset install, I've done maybe a
half-dozen, plus many other headset installs.

The darn o-ring is simply too tight. As in WAY too tight. I can get
the cap maybe 2-3mm down the steerer (put a nice bevel on it already),
and that's it, by hand.

I can't budge it with a rubber mallet. I can move it by using my
crown race setting tool, but it takes quite a tap to get it to move
further down. Given that, I suspect I won't be able to adjust the
headset even if I can get it snugged down, as there wouldn't be any
play to even adjust?

Any ideas? I've tried greasing the o-ring and steerer, also silicone
lube on both. Same results with either, not going anywhere fast.

This headset was on the exact same frame fork model# awhile back, but
I got hit and it bent my headtube so I got a new fork to be safe on
the rebuild. I'm puzzled, any help would be greatly appreciated....

Thanks,

-pete

You did not say if the compression plug is in the steer tube. If so
remove and see if it works. Just an idea. What type/brand fork?

Pete Grey said:

Yep, it assembles fine w/o the o-ring, that's how I measured to cut the
steerer.

I got an email with the tolerancs on the steerer from King customer-service,
mine is actually on the smaller side of what they say works.

I'm guessing my top-cap-groove or o-ring is cut a little small side.

just grease the tube - the o-ring will then slide easily.

Quoted message said:

-pete

"Kinky Cowboy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On Sun, 4 Nov 2007 17:36:41 -0800, "Pete Grey" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

I should have been more clear.
It's not hanging up on the edge, I tapered it with some emery paper and
can
get 2-3mm past it.

It's from that point on that it won't budge, without a fairly large
mechanical aid such as my crown race set tool and hammer.

-pete

Does it all go together with the o-ring removed? If it does, it seems
likely that you've got the wrong o-ring, or much less likely you have
a dud top race with a wrongly cut o-ring groove.

If it doesn't go together without the o-ring, you have an over sized
steerer tube ;-)

Kinky Cowboy*

*Batteries not included
May contain traces of nuts
Your milage may vary

Pete Grey said:

Yep, it assembles fine w/o the o-ring, that's how I measured to cut the
steerer.

I got an email with the tolerancs on the steerer from King customer-service,
mine is actually on the smaller side of what they say works.

I'm guessing my top-cap-groove or o-ring is cut a little small side.

just grease the tube - the o-ring will then slide easily.

Quoted message said:

-pete

"Kinky Cowboy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On Sun, 4 Nov 2007 17:36:41 -0800, "Pete Grey" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

I should have been more clear.
It's not hanging up on the edge, I tapered it with some emery paper and
can
get 2-3mm past it.

It's from that point on that it won't budge, without a fairly large
mechanical aid such as my crown race set tool and hammer.

-pete

Does it all go together with the o-ring removed? If it does, it seems
likely that you've got the wrong o-ring, or much less likely you have
a dud top race with a wrongly cut o-ring groove.

If it doesn't go together without the o-ring, you have an over sized
steerer tube ;-)

Kinky Cowboy*

*Batteries not included
May contain traces of nuts
Your milage may vary

Yep, I've tried that, both grease and silicone spray lube, seperately.

Same deal, still won't budge, almost like the grease had zero effect. I was
pretty shocked, I expected the same, that it'd simply slide on with the
grease...

-pete

"jim beam" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Pete Grey said:

Yep, it assembles fine w/o the o-ring, that's how I measured to cut the
steerer.

I got an email with the tolerancs on the steerer from King
customer-service, mine is actually on the smaller side of what they say
works.

I'm guessing my top-cap-groove or o-ring is cut a little small side.

just grease the tube - the o-ring will then slide easily.

Quoted message said:

-pete

"Kinky Cowboy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On Sun, 4 Nov 2007 17:36:41 -0800, "Pete Grey" <[email hidden]>
wrote:

> I should have been more clear.
> It's not hanging up on the edge, I tapered it with some emery paper and
> can
> get 2-3mm past it.
>
> It's from that point on that it won't budge, without a fairly large
> mechanical aid such as my crown race set tool and hammer.
>
> -pete
>
Does it all go together with the o-ring removed? If it does, it seems
likely that you've got the wrong o-ring, or much less likely you have
a dud top race with a wrongly cut o-ring groove.

If it doesn't go together without the o-ring, you have an over sized
steerer tube ;-)

Kinky Cowboy*

*Batteries not included
May contain traces of nuts
Your milage may vary

Yep, I've tried that, both grease and silicone spray lube, seperately.

Same deal, still won't budge, almost like the grease had zero effect. I was
pretty shocked, I expected the same, that it'd simply slide on with the
grease...

-pete

"jim beam" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Pete Grey said:

Yep, it assembles fine w/o the o-ring, that's how I measured to cut the
steerer.

I got an email with the tolerancs on the steerer from King
customer-service, mine is actually on the smaller side of what they say
works.

I'm guessing my top-cap-groove or o-ring is cut a little small side.

just grease the tube - the o-ring will then slide easily.

Quoted message said:

-pete

"Kinky Cowboy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On Sun, 4 Nov 2007 17:36:41 -0800, "Pete Grey" <[email hidden]>
wrote:

> I should have been more clear.
> It's not hanging up on the edge, I tapered it with some emery paper and
> can
> get 2-3mm past it.
>
> It's from that point on that it won't budge, without a fairly large
> mechanical aid such as my crown race set tool and hammer.
>
> -pete
>
Does it all go together with the o-ring removed? If it does, it seems
likely that you've got the wrong o-ring, or much less likely you have
a dud top race with a wrongly cut o-ring groove.

If it doesn't go together without the o-ring, you have an over sized
steerer tube ;-)

Kinky Cowboy*

*Batteries not included
May contain traces of nuts
Your milage may vary

When I was first setting up to cut the fork it wasn't in there. Now it is,
but the cap wouldn't budge prior to installing the plug either, same deal.

It's a Real Designs: Signature HP. I've measured it as per the instructions
from the Chris King customer service guy, and it was actually on the smaller
side of their diameter tolerances, interestingly enough...

I think my o-ring groove is probably mis-cut, but the King guy doesn't seem
to think so, or to try and resolve it by checking that...
I'm at a bit of a loss at this point.

-pete

<raelwelcome> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Pete Grey" <[email hidden]> wrote in
news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

I'm having a bit of a battle with getting the top-cap over the steerer
on a bike I'm building.
This isn't my first King headset install, I've done maybe a
half-dozen, plus many other headset installs.

The darn o-ring is simply too tight. As in WAY too tight. I can get
the cap maybe 2-3mm down the steerer (put a nice bevel on it already),
and that's it, by hand.

I can't budge it with a rubber mallet. I can move it by using my
crown race setting tool, but it takes quite a tap to get it to move
further down. Given that, I suspect I won't be able to adjust the
headset even if I can get it snugged down, as there wouldn't be any
play to even adjust?

Any ideas? I've tried greasing the o-ring and steerer, also silicone
lube on both. Same results with either, not going anywhere fast.

This headset was on the exact same frame fork model# awhile back, but
I got hit and it bent my headtube so I got a new fork to be safe on
the rebuild. I'm puzzled, any help would be greatly appreciated....

Thanks,

-pete

You did not say if the compression plug is in the steer tube. If so
remove and see if it works. Just an idea. What type/brand fork?

When I was first setting up to cut the fork it wasn't in there. Now it is,
but the cap wouldn't budge prior to installing the plug either, same deal.

It's a Real Designs: Signature HP. I've measured it as per the instructions
from the Chris King customer service guy, and it was actually on the smaller
side of their diameter tolerances, interestingly enough...

I think my o-ring groove is probably mis-cut, but the King guy doesn't seem
to think so, or to try and resolve it by checking that...
I'm at a bit of a loss at this point.

-pete

<raelwelcome> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Pete Grey" <[email hidden]> wrote in
news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

I'm having a bit of a battle with getting the top-cap over the steerer
on a bike I'm building.
This isn't my first King headset install, I've done maybe a
half-dozen, plus many other headset installs.

The darn o-ring is simply too tight. As in WAY too tight. I can get
the cap maybe 2-3mm down the steerer (put a nice bevel on it already),
and that's it, by hand.

I can't budge it with a rubber mallet. I can move it by using my
crown race setting tool, but it takes quite a tap to get it to move
further down. Given that, I suspect I won't be able to adjust the
headset even if I can get it snugged down, as there wouldn't be any
play to even adjust?

Any ideas? I've tried greasing the o-ring and steerer, also silicone
lube on both. Same results with either, not going anywhere fast.

This headset was on the exact same frame fork model# awhile back, but
I got hit and it bent my headtube so I got a new fork to be safe on
the rebuild. I'm puzzled, any help would be greatly appreciated....

Thanks,

-pete

You did not say if the compression plug is in the steer tube. If so
remove and see if it works. Just an idea. What type/brand fork?

Pete Grey said:

When I was first setting up to cut the fork it wasn't in there. Now it is,
but the cap wouldn't budge prior to installing the plug either, same deal.

It's a Real Designs: Signature HP. I've measured it as per the instructions
from the Chris King customer service guy, and it was actually on the smaller
side of their diameter tolerances, interestingly enough...

I think my o-ring groove is probably mis-cut,

technically possible, but in reality, most unlikely. these components
are the product of high quality automation - there's very little chance
this one is out of tolerance.

Quoted message said:

but the King guy doesn't seem
to think so, or to try and resolve it by checking that...
I'm at a bit of a loss at this point.

persist!

o-rings are cheap and abundant - you can probably buy a bag of 100 for a
few bucks. sand down the tube a little*, and use more silicone grease.
it'll go at some point.

* when sanding, look for "high points". do this by rubbing a stem up
and down and seeing where it abrades. repeat until the shaft is smooth
and as uniform as possible. try not to reduce it in diameter - be
selective, not indiscriminate. once the o-ring is on, wipe off all the
grease.

Quoted message said:

-pete

<raelwelcome> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Pete Grey" <[email hidden]> wrote in
news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

I'm having a bit of a battle with getting the top-cap over the steerer
on a bike I'm building.
This isn't my first King headset install, I've done maybe a
half-dozen, plus many other headset installs.

The darn o-ring is simply too tight. As in WAY too tight. I can get
the cap maybe 2-3mm down the steerer (put a nice bevel on it already),
and that's it, by hand.

I can't budge it with a rubber mallet. I can move it by using my
crown race setting tool, but it takes quite a tap to get it to move
further down. Given that, I suspect I won't be able to adjust the
headset even if I can get it snugged down, as there wouldn't be any
play to even adjust?

Any ideas? I've tried greasing the o-ring and steerer, also silicone
lube on both. Same results with either, not going anywhere fast.

This headset was on the exact same frame fork model# awhile back, but
I got hit and it bent my headtube so I got a new fork to be safe on
the rebuild. I'm puzzled, any help would be greatly appreciated....

Thanks,

-pete

You did not say if the compression plug is in the steer tube. If so
remove and see if it works. Just an idea. What type/brand fork?

Pete Grey said:

When I was first setting up to cut the fork it wasn't in there. Now it is,
but the cap wouldn't budge prior to installing the plug either, same deal.

It's a Real Designs: Signature HP. I've measured it as per the instructions
from the Chris King customer service guy, and it was actually on the smaller
side of their diameter tolerances, interestingly enough...

I think my o-ring groove is probably mis-cut,

technically possible, but in reality, most unlikely. these components
are the product of high quality automation - there's very little chance
this one is out of tolerance.

Quoted message said:

but the King guy doesn't seem
to think so, or to try and resolve it by checking that...
I'm at a bit of a loss at this point.

persist!

o-rings are cheap and abundant - you can probably buy a bag of 100 for a
few bucks. sand down the tube a little*, and use more silicone grease.
it'll go at some point.

* when sanding, look for "high points". do this by rubbing a stem up
and down and seeing where it abrades. repeat until the shaft is smooth
and as uniform as possible. try not to reduce it in diameter - be
selective, not indiscriminate. once the o-ring is on, wipe off all the
grease.

Quoted message said:

-pete

<raelwelcome> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Pete Grey" <[email hidden]> wrote in
news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

I'm having a bit of a battle with getting the top-cap over the steerer
on a bike I'm building.
This isn't my first King headset install, I've done maybe a
half-dozen, plus many other headset installs.

The darn o-ring is simply too tight. As in WAY too tight. I can get
the cap maybe 2-3mm down the steerer (put a nice bevel on it already),
and that's it, by hand.

I can't budge it with a rubber mallet. I can move it by using my
crown race setting tool, but it takes quite a tap to get it to move
further down. Given that, I suspect I won't be able to adjust the
headset even if I can get it snugged down, as there wouldn't be any
play to even adjust?

Any ideas? I've tried greasing the o-ring and steerer, also silicone
lube on both. Same results with either, not going anywhere fast.

This headset was on the exact same frame fork model# awhile back, but
I got hit and it bent my headtube so I got a new fork to be safe on
the rebuild. I'm puzzled, any help would be greatly appreciated....

Thanks,

-pete

You did not say if the compression plug is in the steer tube. If so
remove and see if it works. Just an idea. What type/brand fork?

I could try getting some o-rings, any idea how to accurately measure the
existing one?

I put on a LOT of grease this time, no additional success.

I have to admit, I'm very hesitant to start sanding down the carbon fiber
steerer. It looks pretty thin as it is and I'm not sure how much tolerance
there is for taking material off...

-pete

"jim beam" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Pete Grey said:

When I was first setting up to cut the fork it wasn't in there. Now it
is, but the cap wouldn't budge prior to installing the plug either, same
deal.

It's a Real Designs: Signature HP. I've measured it as per the
instructions from the Chris King customer service guy, and it was
actually on the smaller side of their diameter tolerances, interestingly
enough...

I think my o-ring groove is probably mis-cut,

technically possible, but in reality, most unlikely. these components are
the product of high quality automation - there's very little chance this
one is out of tolerance.

Quoted message said:

but the King guy doesn't seem to think so, or to try and resolve it by
checking that...
I'm at a bit of a loss at this point.

persist!

o-rings are cheap and abundant - you can probably buy a bag of 100 for a
few bucks. sand down the tube a little*, and use more silicone grease.
it'll go at some point.

* when sanding, look for "high points". do this by rubbing a stem up and
down and seeing where it abrades. repeat until the shaft is smooth and as
uniform as possible. try not to reduce it in diameter - be selective, not
indiscriminate. once the o-ring is on, wipe off all the grease.

Quoted message said:

-pete

<raelwelcome> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Pete Grey" <[email hidden]> wrote in
news:[email hidden]:

> I'm having a bit of a battle with getting the top-cap over the steerer
> on a bike I'm building.
> This isn't my first King headset install, I've done maybe a
> half-dozen, plus many other headset installs.
>
> The darn o-ring is simply too tight. As in WAY too tight. I can get
> the cap maybe 2-3mm down the steerer (put a nice bevel on it already),
> and that's it, by hand.
>
> I can't budge it with a rubber mallet. I can move it by using my
> crown race setting tool, but it takes quite a tap to get it to move
> further down. Given that, I suspect I won't be able to adjust the
> headset even if I can get it snugged down, as there wouldn't be any
> play to even adjust?
>
> Any ideas? I've tried greasing the o-ring and steerer, also silicone
> lube on both. Same results with either, not going anywhere fast.
>
> This headset was on the exact same frame fork model# awhile back, but
> I got hit and it bent my headtube so I got a new fork to be safe on
> the rebuild. I'm puzzled, any help would be greatly appreciated....
>
> Thanks,
>
> -pete
>
>
You did not say if the compression plug is in the steer tube. If so
remove and see if it works. Just an idea. What type/brand fork?