changing campy cranks question

Lubricate (or Loctite) any threaded assembly, so you should do so for the crank bolts and chainring
bolts. There is some (perhaps a lot) disagreement about the spindle/crank interface...some say to
lighly lubricate the flats, some say it should be dry. I think it should be dry and clean.

Chris said:

I'm changing cranks on my Campy setup, and was wondering if I should use either grease or
anti-seize compound when I reinstall them. How about the chainring bolts? Thanks.

just to start this B again - Don't grease the spindle! grease the bolt threads. Campy specificly
says to put the arms on *ungreased*

tut-<< I'm changing cranks on my Campy setup, and was wondering if I should use either grease or
anti-seize compound when I reinstall them. How about the chainring bolts?

-Lube or antisieze into the BB sheel of the frameset. -Lube into the cups of the BB. Either one
comes off(AC-H) or both(Record and Chorus). -Lube or antisiewze on the chainrinmg bolts and a wee
bit on the crank flats where the rings live. -Dry spindle, as per Campagnolo's recommendation and
torque to 23.6-28 ft-lbs, per Campagnolo spec.

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

I like superglue.

--
Robin Hubert <[email hidden]>

"Chris" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I'm changing cranks on my Campy setup, and was wondering if I should use either grease or
anti-seize compound when I reinstall them. How about the chainring bolts? Thanks.

Chris said:

I'm changing cranks on my Campy setup, and was wondering if I should use either grease or
anti-seize compound when I reinstall them. How about the chainring bolts? Thanks.

Grease crank bolts and spindles. See: draco.acs.uci.edu8f.11.htmlOpen ↗

Chainring bolts: grease bolt threads but keep nut exteriors dry.

Regarding the Campagnolo recommendations, it's funny how people pick and choose which ones to
follow. Campag also state that 2001+ rear derailleurs must be used with 2001+ Ergos.

~PB

Pete-<< Regarding the Campagnolo recommendations, it's funny how people pick and choose which ones
to follow. Campag also state that 2001+ rear derailleurs must be used with 2001+ Ergos.

Nothing funny about it. I have tried things that some manufacturers say and have found them to be
not true, like rear ders and ERGO, but I have not had a square taper crank loosen or come off in 18
years of wrenching...so I'll stick with what they say, cuz I agree with that....

Helmet ON, flack vest ON, goggles DOWN.........

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

(Qui si parla Campagnolo) said:

Pete-<< Regarding the Campagnolo recommendations, it's funny how people pick and choose which ones
to follow. Campag also state that 2001+ rear derailleurs must be used with 2001+ Ergos.

Nothing funny about it. I have tried things that some manufacturers say and have found them to be
not true, like rear ders and ERGO, but I have not had a square taper crank loosen or come off in 18
years of wrenching...so I'll stick with what they say, cuz I agree with that....

Helmet ON, flack vest ON, goggles DOWN.........

Heh heh heh... I think the ONE thing the greasers vs. the cleaners can agree on is that if you do it
either way, and torque the crank bolt to the proper tension, it's not likely to ever come loose.
That makes the argument one of semantics in terms of real world effect.

Hey Peter, can I borrow an extra flack vest?

Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles habcycles.comhabcycles.comOpen ↗ Home of the $695 ti frame