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chainwheel cogs need a dentist

Started by Antony · · Last activity · 6 posts · 552 views

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UK and Europe
Published
23 May 2004
Last activity
25 May 2004
Original author
Antony
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6
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  1. Hi, I've not owned a bike for a long time and never have
    done anything other than basic maintenance. Yesterday I
    bought a £20 hack to get about on. It's just a bog-standard
    mtb-style thing with 15 gears, but needs a bit of work. It
    needs a new chainwheel as teeth are missing so I have a few
    questions . . .

    Do I have to replace chainwheel, rear cogs and chain
    together? What is involved in replacing the chainwheel? Are
    there standard fittings (screwthread sizes etc) for
    chainwheel/bottom bracket etc? What should I expect to pay
    for a steel chainwheel and rear cogs? Where's the best place
    to get the parts? Any good sources on the net?

    TIA

    Antony

  2. See below....

    HTH

    Huw Francis

    "Antony" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi, I've not owned a bike for a long time and never have
    done anything other than basic maintenance. Yesterday I
    bought a £20 hack to get about on. It's just a bog-
    standard mtb-style thing with 15 gears, but needs a bit of
    work. It needs a new chainwheel as teeth are missing so I
    have a few questions . . .

    Do I have to replace chainwheel, rear cogs and chain
    together?


    In general the chain wears out first, then the "rear
    cogs", then the chainrings. But if a chainring has teeth
    missing then it hasn't worn out, it's been dropped or hit
    a kerb or something, so you *might* get away with just a
    new outer chainring

    Quoted message said:

    What is involved in replacing the chainwheel?


    You *might* get lucky and be able to replace just the big
    chainring but, more likely, you'll need a complete chainset,
    including both cranks.

    Quoted message said:

    Are there standard fittings (screwthread sizes etc) for
    chainwheel/bottom bracket etc?


    Yup - you'll probably need a new chainset (ie 3 rings plus
    both cranks) which you can replace yourself (if you have a
    crank-removing tool) or you can get your LBS to do it for
    you at minimal cost - it takes about 5 minutes with the
    correct tools

    Quoted message said:

    What should I expect to pay for a steel chainwheel and
    rear cogs?


    No idea

    Quoted message said:

    Where's the best place to get the parts?


    Your LBS if you want them to fit it for you. Otherwise,
    Wiggle or Settle Cycles or Edinburgh Bicycle Co or Spa
    Cycles or St John St Cycles or.....

    Quoted message said:

    Any good sources on the net?


    (see above)

    Quoted message said:


    TIA

    Antony

  3. Antony said:


    It needs a new chainwheel as teeth are missing so

    Before you go any further, some modern chainwheels can give
    the impression of missing teeth. Some teeth are deliberately
    made low profile to assist changing gear. I suspect its that
    rather than teeth missing - the latter being somewhat
    difficult to achieve.

    Tony

  4. in message <[email hidden]>, Antony

    (') said:

    Hi, I've not owned a bike for a long time and never have
    done anything other than basic maintenance. Yesterday I
    bought a £20 hack to get about on. It's just a bog-
    standard mtb-style thing with 15 gears, but needs a bit of
    work. It needs a new chainwheel as teeth are missing so I
    have a few questions . . .

    Do I have to replace chainwheel, rear cogs and chain
    together?

    You don't have to but it's usually better to,
    particularly if they are in poor conditions - which yours
    sound as if they are.

    Quoted message said:

    What is involved in replacing the chainwheel?

    The chainrings usually bolt onto a 'spider' on the drive-
    side crank. There are, unfortunately, a number of
    different patterns of spider - the five-spoke ones and two
    different patterns of four-spoke ones are quite common but
    there are others.

    However, if they're all fscked, it may be more
    straightforward to get a new chainset (i.e. cranks with
    chainrings already fitted) which you can get for twenty
    quid upwards

    Quoted message said:

    Are there standard fittings (screwthread sizes etc) for
    chainwheel/bottom bracket etc?

    Most bottom brackets these days are the square taper type.
    There are a few splined ones around but they rare. Having
    said that where the chainset sits laterally on the taper
    varies... so you can have lots of fun with this.

    There's what's called the 'pitch circle diameter' - this is
    the diameter of the circle which passes through the centre
    of the bolt holes. Usually the big and middle chainrings use
    the same bolt holes (often 110mm PCD) and the small ring
    uses different boltholes. There's a useful chart here:
    <URL:http://www.sjscycles.com/boltcirclediameter.asp>

    Quoted message said:

    What should I expect to pay for a steel chainwheel and
    rear cogs?

    Between a fiver and about fifty quid for the chain ring,
    depending how posh it is. The problem with your five speed
    rear cogs, they're probably a 'freewheel' rather than a
    modern cassette. About a tenner for a reasonable basic one.
    You won't get a really expensive one, because the new bikes
    are all on cassettes. Note that freewheels are famous for
    being a complete bugger to remove.

    Quoted message said:

    Where's the best place to get the parts?

    If you've got a good Local Bike Shop it may be worth
    frequenting because it is a source of high quality advice.
    It will be more expensive than...

    Quoted message said:

    Any good sources on the net?

    Plenty.

    <URL:http://www.sjscycles.com/>
    <URL:http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/>
    <URL:http://www.wiggle.co.uk/> <URL:http://www.edinburgh-
    bicycle.co.uk/>

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke)
    jasmine.org.uk~simon

    ;; lovely alternative to
    rice.

  5. "Tony Raven" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:
    Antony said:


    It needs a new chainwheel as teeth are missing so

    Before you go any further, some modern chainwheels can
    give the impression of missing teeth. Some teeth are
    deliberately made low profile to assist changing gear. I
    suspect its that rather than teeth missing - the latter
    being somewhat difficult to achieve.

    Tony

    After a brief inspection this evening . . . I still think
    I'm missing a few teeth but that's not the problem. It seems
    to be a stiff chainlink, giving the impression of the chain
    jumping. It seemed to be pulling the derailleur and making a
    right noise when it went thru it. I WD40-ed the chain, bent
    the offending link around a bit and it's a lot better. Prob
    time for a service in the near future tho.

    ta for the help guys

    Antony

  6. Antony said:

    After a brief inspection this evening . . . I still
    think I'm missing a few teeth but that's not the
    problem. It seems to be a stiff chainlink, giving the
    impression of the chain jumping. It seemed to be pulling
    the derailleur and making a right noise when it went
    thru it. I WD40-ed the chain, bent the offending link
    around a bit and it's a lot better. Prob time for a
    service in the near future tho.

    Here's some instructions if the link stiffens up again (or
    is still not quite right) :

    www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQtchan.shtml

    ~PB

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