chain lube?

On Fri, 5 Jan 2007 13:09:09 -0000

AP said:

I used to use 3-in-1, but then I read in Richard's Bicycle Book about
lubricating by dipping the whole thing in molten paraffin (ie candle)
wax. And it does work. But it needs redoing quite often, which is a
bit of a shag (you have to take the chain off) and I was wondering
whether I maybe shouldn't switch to using some kind of chain lube -
Pedros Syn or something. Any thoughts...?

I've tried one or two modern brews, but haven't found anything
that beats a lithium grease. I first started that when I had
a motorbike, but it works well on the bike and is no faff.

--
not me guv

"AP" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I used to use 3-in-1, but then I read in Richard's Bicycle Book about
lubricating by dipping the whole thing in molten paraffin (ie candle) wax.
And it does work. But it needs redoing quite often, which is a bit of a
shag (you have to take the chain off) and I was wondering whether I maybe
shouldn't switch to using some kind of chain lube - Pedros Syn or
something. Any thoughts...?

Wax type stuff is a waste of time in the UK, water takes it off very quick
and I'm unconvinced by how good a lubricant wax can be. I like oil. Any oil.
Chainsaw oil is a bit sticky, and 5w30 is a bit too runny (similar to 3 in
1). Something like 10w40 or 20w50 might be more like it. I just buy the
stuff from the LBS for £3 a bottle because the bottle's convenient.

On 05/01/2007 13:09, AP said,

Quoted message said:

I used to use 3-in-1, but then I read in Richard's Bicycle Book about
lubricating by dipping the whole thing in molten paraffin (ie candle) wax.
And it does work. But it needs redoing quite often, which is a bit of a shag
(you have to take the chain off) and I was wondering whether I maybe
shouldn't switch to using some kind of chain lube - Pedros Syn or something.
Any thoughts...?

If you want to be able to take the chain off easily, use an SRAM chain
with a Powerlink. Once you've got the knack, these can be removed and
replaced without any tools - just your fingers.

As far as lube goes, either Finish Line Cross Country or ProGold Chain
Lube, depending on the conditions, are the only two to consider,
regardless of what anyone else says :-)

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

AP said:

I used to use 3-in-1, but then I read in Richard's Bicycle Book about
lubricating by dipping the whole thing in molten paraffin (ie candle) wax.
And it does work. But it needs redoing quite often, which is a bit of a shag
(you have to take the chain off) and I was wondering whether I maybe
shouldn't switch to using some kind of chain lube - Pedros Syn or something.
Any thoughts...?

I was into using Finish Line "dry" lube with teflon for a while in the
summer because the dirt tends to fall off it rather than sticking like
it does with oil. But it doesn't last long and is hugely expensive so
I've given up and gone back to 3-in-1. Mostly it gets a hose down and
rub over with a old brush, but now and then I'll take the chain off
(easy with SRAM powerlinks) and do the shake-in-a-jar cleaning thing,
then let it sit in a pot of engine oil for a while.

Paul Boyd said:

If you want to be able to take the chain off easily, use an SRAM chain
with a Powerlink. Once you've got the knack, these can be removed and
replaced without any tools - just your fingers.

Powerlinks are weird. You can break the chain at a Powerlink in a
matter of seconds, but only if those seconds are preceded by at least
three minutes of fruitless struggle. Then suddenly and without any
apparent difference in the technique you're using to push/pull/squeeze
the chain together, off it comes.

Still a whole lot easier than the old chain link extractor tool, though

-dan

--
http://www.coruskate.net/

In news:[email hidden],
AP <[email hidden]> tweaked the Babbage-Engine to tell
us:

(Lube-O-Stuff)

Quoted message said:

Any thoughts...?

IME wax-based lubricants are the staple diet of Derailleur Mice. Finish
Line Cross-Country is pretty good, though when I get to the end of the
current bottle, I am minded to try chainsaw oil[1].

Has anyone tried using LHM[2] (Citroen hydraulic fluid) as a lubricant?

1 - of which I have plenty and nothing which needs chainsawing any more
2 - of which I have plenty and no motorcar which uses it any more

--
Dave Larrington
<http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk>
Electricity comes from other planets.

On 01/05/2007 15:43:14 Daniel Barlow said:

Paul Boyd wrote:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

If you want to be able to take the chain off easily, use an SRAM chain
with a Powerlink. Once you've got the knack, these can be removed and
replaced without any tools - just your fingers.

Quoted message said:

Powerlinks are weird. You can break the chain at a Powerlink in a matter
of seconds, but only if those seconds are preceded by at least three
minutes of fruitless struggle.

Quoted message said:

-dan

Takes me a couple of seconds, never a struggle.

--

Buck

I would rather be out on my Catrike

http://www.catrike.co.uk

On 05/01/2007 15:43, Daniel Barlow said,

Quoted message said:

Powerlinks are weird. You can break the chain at a Powerlink in a
matter of seconds, but only if those seconds are preceded by at least
three minutes of fruitless struggle. Then suddenly and without any
apparent difference in the technique you're using to push/pull/squeeze
the chain together, off it comes.

The knack is simple, but a bugger to describe! Here goes - hold each
end of the link between finger and thumb of each hand. Squeeze fingers
and thumbs together, then push your hands towards each other. The links
will then disengage, and by moving one hand towards you and the other
away, you have a broken chain!

In the time it took to write that, I could have had the chain on and off
half a dozen times!

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

AP wrote on 05/01/2007 13:09 +0100:

Quoted message said:

I used to use 3-in-1, but then I read in Richard's Bicycle Book about
lubricating by dipping the whole thing in molten paraffin (ie candle) wax.
And it does work. But it needs redoing quite often, which is a bit of a shag
(you have to take the chain off) and I was wondering whether I maybe
shouldn't switch to using some kind of chain lube - Pedros Syn or something.
Any thoughts...?

ProLink Gold (available from Wiggle) is very good and the one I use. I
have heard reports that Purple Extreme is even better but I've not used
it myself yet - too many bottle of ProLink still on the shelf.

--
Tony

"...has many omissions and contains much that is apocryphal, or at least
wildly inaccurate..."
Douglas Adams; The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy

Dave Larrington said:

In news:[email hidden],
AP <[email hidden]> tweaked the Babbage-Engine to tell
us:

<snip>

Quoted message said:

Has anyone tried using LHM[2] (Citroen hydraulic fluid) as a lubricant?

1 - of which I have plenty and nothing which needs chainsawing any more
2 - of which I have plenty and no motorcar which uses it any more

--
Dave Larrington
<http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk>
Electricity comes from other planets.

I've used chainsaw oil - works well and in particulat lasts well, even
in the wet. Apply only very lightly though, or it gunks up and
"strings" of it fly off at speed.

Um, vague warning bells in the area of transmission fluid causing paint
to bubble, and/or eating rubber?
I know that this is the case for brake fluid, and there are varieties
of all of these fluids, but I'd proceed with caution.

Regards,

bookieb.

"bookieb" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Has anyone tried using LHM[2] (Citroen hydraulic fluid) as a lubricant?

1 - of which I have plenty and nothing which needs chainsawing any more
2 - of which I have plenty and no motorcar which uses it any more

I've used chainsaw oil - works well and in particulat lasts well, even
in the wet. Apply only very lightly though, or it gunks up and
"strings" of it fly off at speed.

Um, vague warning bells in the area of transmission fluid causing paint
to bubble, and/or eating rubber?
I know that this is the case for brake fluid, and there are varieties
of all of these fluids, but I'd proceed with caution.

LHM is mineral oil (the M is Minerale), so the paint/rubber thing doesn't
apply. Might work.

cheers,
clive

"Tony Raven" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

AP wrote on 05/01/2007 13:09 +0100:

Quoted message said:

I used to use 3-in-1, but then I read in Richard's Bicycle Book about
lubricating by dipping the whole thing in molten paraffin (ie candle)
wax. And it does work. But it needs redoing quite often, which is a bit
of a shag (you have to take the chain off) and I was wondering whether I
maybe shouldn't switch to using some kind of chain lube - Pedros Syn or
something. Any thoughts...?

ProLink Gold (available from Wiggle) is very good and the one I use. I
have heard reports that Purple Extreme is even better but I've not used it
myself yet - too many bottle of ProLink still on the shelf.

I've been using Purple Extreme and it seems good - keeps the chain very
clean.
Needs fairly frequent applications though - not like the 400 mile intervals
it says on the bottle.

If the bike gets a good soaking in the rain it needs reapplying.

Seems expensive at £10 a bottle, but the bottle does last for ages.

Gets ride of oily chain mark syndrome.

Whether it reduces wear - I've no idea, but there are no squeaks.

Peter

Clive George said:

"bookieb" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Has anyone tried using LHM[2] (Citroen hydraulic fluid) as a
lubricant? 1 - of which I have plenty and nothing which needs
chainsawing any
more 2 - of which I have plenty and no motorcar which uses it any
more

I've used chainsaw oil - works well and in particulat lasts well,
even in the wet. Apply only very lightly though, or it gunks up and
"strings" of it fly off at speed.

Um, vague warning bells in the area of transmission fluid causing
paint to bubble, and/or eating rubber?
I know that this is the case for brake fluid, and there are varieties
of all of these fluids, but I'd proceed with caution.

LHM is mineral oil (the M is Minerale), so the paint/rubber thing
doesn't apply. Might work.

Apart from being the a brighter shade of the same colour as Finish Line Oil,
I can't see why it'd be any good. It's very thin. Perhaps it doesn't pick up
clag, I guess.

And forgoodnesssakes Dave, I can't remember if you have a car, but why on
earth would you abandon the hydraulic world if you did.

A

"Buck" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On 01/05/2007 15:43:14 Daniel Barlow said:

Paul Boyd wrote:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

If you want to be able to take the chain off easily, use an SRAM chain
with a Powerlink. Once you've got the knack, these can be removed and
replaced without any tools - just your fingers.

Quoted message said:

Powerlinks are weird. You can break the chain at a Powerlink in a matter
of seconds, but only if those seconds are preceded by at least three
minutes of fruitless struggle.

Quoted message said:

-dan

Takes me a couple of seconds, never a struggle.

Just goes to show you're a clever beggar!(:-)

Alan

"Tony Raven" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

AP wrote on 05/01/2007 13:09 +0100:

Quoted message said:

I used to use 3-in-1, but then I read in Richard's Bicycle Book about
lubricating by dipping the whole thing in molten paraffin (ie candle)
wax. And it does work. But it needs redoing quite often, which is a bit
of a shag (you have to take the chain off) and I was wondering whether I
maybe shouldn't switch to using some kind of chain lube - Pedros Syn or
something. Any thoughts...?

ProLink Gold (available from Wiggle) is very good and the one I use. I
have heard reports that Purple Extreme is even better but I've not used it
myself yet - too many bottle of ProLink still on the shelf.

Who is 'Wiggle'?

Alan

"Ambrose Nankivell" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Apart from being the a brighter shade of the same colour as Finish Line
Oil, I can't see why it'd be any good. It's very thin. Perhaps it doesn't
pick up clag, I guess.

And forgoodnesssakes Dave, I can't remember if you have a car, but why on
earth would you abandon the hydraulic world if you did.

Does that imply you're another cit nerd?

cheers,
clive

Dave Larrington wrote on 05/01/2007 15:47 +0100:

Quoted message said:

1 - of which I have plenty and nothing which needs chainsawing any more
2 - of which I have plenty and no motorcar which uses it any more

The Lexus Chainsaw Massacre?

--
Tony

"...has many omissions and contains much that is apocryphal, or at least
wildly inaccurate..."
Douglas Adams; The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy

On 05/01/2007 17:49, Alan Holmes said,

Quoted message said:

Who is 'Wiggle'?

Are you serious? Type it into google, and it's the first entry.

Er - google is an internet search engine :-)

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

"Paul Boyd" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On 05/01/2007 17:49, Alan Holmes said,

Quoted message said:

Who is 'Wiggle'?

Are you serious? Type it into google, and it's the first entry.

It's Alan Holmes. He's either very stupid, a troll, or both. I'm inclined to
one of the latter two.

Quoted message said:

Er - google is an internet search engine :-)

Indeed - he asked that one not very long ago at all on another NG. Hence my
diagnosis above.

cheers,
clive